yves saint laurent

Marrakech has long been the playground for Europe's jet set, and Paris-based Yves Saint Laurent had a second home there that he frequented. So, around 1980, when he learned that one of the city's most stunning gardens, Jardin Majorelle, had fallen into disrepair, he and his partner Pierre Berge bought it. They opened it to the public, and did the public ever come. It's now one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Red City.

When Saint Laurent died in 2008, his ashes were scattered at Jardin Majorelle. And so, for 25 dirham, you can tour the garden and pay your respects. His official memorial is tucked away in the back of the garden. The simple concrete pillar is a bit bland, in comparison to the lush tropical and desert plants, fountains, and piercing cobalt blue buildings and accents.

But then again, fashion designers don't tend to have over-the-top monument-style memorials. Their funerals or memorial services are their glitzy last act -- think Gianni Versace, Alexander McQueen. Some leave part of their fortunes to worthy causes -- Geoffrey Beene, for instance, endowed a cancer research center at New York's Memorial Sloan Kettering hospital. And of course all of them leave their legacies hanging in the many closets of the fashionable.

The legacy of Yves Saint Laurent gets a deep exploration in an exhibition currently at the Petit Palais in Paris. The show is the first in Paris since the designer's death in 2008 and explores the full measure of Saint Laurent's considerable influence on fashion. The LA Times reports that the show is nearly three times the size of the 2008 exhibition at the De Young Museum in San Francisco, California. It includes 307 haute couture and ready-to-wear garments, together with photographs, drawings and films.

Who likes short shorts?

Apparently everybody, as evidenced by the number of cropped breeches seen on the catwalks and red carpet recently. Ciara, Gwyneth, Nicole and a host of other celebrities have taken shorts out for a spin on the crimson. It doesn't seem to matter much whether it's cold outside or not. In fact, it was bitingly cold during fashion week in New York in February when Kylie Minogue decided to grace the front row in shiny black vinyl shorts.

Shorts have been around for centuries, of course. The descendants of kilts and togas, they were the look for young school boys. Soldiers stationed in hot places like Bermuda adopted the look for relief from the heat which then quickly influenced civilians. Women followed later. Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Jackie O. were often photographed in shorts.

Once only appropriate to wear starting this weekend (Memorial Day) through Labor Day, cut to today and the look is so prevalent almost every designer inserted a pair of shorts in his or her fall/winter collections. A few highlights: If one were to wear shorts on to the North Pole, Chanel had an option-gray fur shorts with furry boots and a patterned ski sweater. Salvatore Ferragamo struck a '70s vibe with rust leather shorts shown under a rust suede maxi coat and brown belted cable knit sweater and further punctuated with rust suede boots and a brown cable knit cap. Dolce & Gabbana had shorts you could wear to a meeting on Wall Street-a mauve boiled wool short suit with the knee length shorts, cuffed and modest.

Caviar House & Prunier (Luxist Awards nominee for best caviar retailer) has released the design of the Love 2010 tin, which features one of the original drawings that Yves Saint Laurent has been creating since 1970. The caviar is aged to its prime for 45 days and made using ancient Persian recipes, with the original salt. The "LOVE" theme is inspired by the perfect balance and harmony found between the salt and the roe, and the tin is of course a collectible and keepsake. Available in October of this year for £395/125g.

It seems the latest trend with premium hatchbacks is to tie in with a major fashion label, sit back and see how it turns out. Recent examples have included a Lancia Ypsilon by Versus, a Fiat 500 by Diesel and a constant stream of Minis decked out for the annual Life Ball by the likes of Missoni, Versace, Agent Provocateur and The Blonds. Now Citroen is ready to join the party with this one-of-a-kind DS3 adorned with the logo of Yves Saint Laurent.

The special-edition DS3 was created for a retrospective event honoring the fashion label and its departed founder, and was used to shuttle celebrities and VIPs around Paris. Unfortunately, the tie-in with YSL seems to have gone no further than a special paint job and a logo on the roof. Which may be more than the fashion-forward DS3 needs, but less than we expected.

It looks like Christie's agrees with me (or, I agree with Christie's): the art market is going to recover this year. The auction house, which is bringing some powerful inventory under the gavel at its contemporary art sale next month, expects the market to recover this year. With the improvement in conditions, price guarantees may return, as well.

In 2009, Christie's states, sales fell to 2.1 billion pounds, a decline of 24%. For the contemporary category, which was hit worst by the art market slump, sales dropped 59% to 244.3 million pounds -- in 2007, it only took a handful of pieces to get up to this amount.

According to Edward Dolman, chief executive of Christie's, "These figures were much better than we expected." He observed to Bloomberg News, "The art market is vulnerable and we thought we'd be down 50 percent, as we were in the last recession in 1991." Christie's, along with the other major house, Sotheby's, were able to compensate for weakness in contemporary art with sales of Old Masters, wine and jewelry. Also, performance in Asia contributed to the salvaging of 2009, where average selling rates by lot gained 5% to 80% in 2009.

The Old Masters group gained 1% last year, one of only four categories to show an up-tick in 2009. The best performer, however, was the 20th Century Decorative Arts category, which posted a 149% increase, helped along by the 21.9 million euros paid for an Eileen Gray chair at the record-setting Yves Saint Laurent sale.

From the model-patrolled runways of Milan to the chic streets of New York, Gucci is synonymous with high fashion. The Italian designer outfits opulent consumers of all stripes -- financiers, socialites and celebrities -- making it an obvious candidate for a Luxist award in the Best Clothing Designer category, in addition to a nomination for Best in Leathergoods.

Founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Gucci began as a luggage and leather goods store. Guccio Gucci drew on years of experience working at London's Savoy Hotel and observing the proclivities of English nobles, combining this sensibility with his own Italian fashion sense in his early work, a theme that still runs strong at Gucci today.

Though Gucci struggled to find materials as World War II raged through Europe, the scrappy founder was able to stay afloat by creating products like the "Bamboo Bag" from the resources available. The postwar years brought expansion to Milan and New York, and, sadly, the death of Guccio Gucci. His sons would take over the business and continue to guide it along the path to becoming an international fashion powerhouse, expanding to Hong Kong and Tokyo. The designer became a favorite of fashionable and legendary celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Onassis Kennedy.

Guccio Gucci's aesthetic persists, a lasting legacy for the founder. The company boasts talented designers like Frida Giannini, who was named sole creative director in 2006. In addition to Gucci, Gucci Group also owns Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney and Yves Saint Laurent. It directly operates 560 stores around the world.

Cast your vote for the Readers' Choice Awards at http://www.luxist.com/awards-vote/accessories-awards.

Famed French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent's incredible collections of art, antiques, furniture, decorative objects and personal effects were recently auctioned off in a series of sales fetching a total of over $700 million. Now the legendary couturier's Paris duplex on the Rue de Babylone, which housed many of his most prized possessions collected with longtime partner Pierre Bergé, is being put up for sale as well. The 5,400-sq.-ft. spread with a massive garden has been listed with prestigious Paris-based agency Emilie Garcin and is expected to fetch at least $30 million, WWD reports. Pictured above is the cover of The Private World of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, a stunning book about the eye-popping environments Saint Laurent created.

Green. Sustainable. Recyclable. Not exactly the first words you use to describe luxury fashion, right? At the same time, numerous clothing companies have been founded on the principal of being eco-friendly.

I'll admit, the skeptic in me began to worry when giant brands like Guess, Inc. started producing lines purporting to be green. Green's big business and it made for great advertising and public relations. But how can you tell whether a line that claims to be green is really green?

I posed the question to Emma Grady, a contributing fashion writer at TreeHugger.com (a division of the Discovery Channel) who helps sort this out for consumers. "We do this by asking lots of questions to understand a garment's life cycle," she says. "Where are the fabrics sourced? How are they produced? How far does the product travel (shipping is a major source of pollution)? Is the cotton grown in Africa, weaved in India, then shipped to a store in California? What dyes are used in the process?"

Grady and her team at TreeHugger.com a number of designers' sustainable practices are the real deal. It's worth listing a few of them here. Not surprising, Stella McCartney is one. McCartney is well-known vegan and has long produced pleather shoes, belts and handbags to avoid the environmentally taxing tanning process.

Linda Loudermilk, a designer from Los Angeles, is another to watch. I interviewed Loudermilk a few years ago and she told me she spends countless hours researching and developing textiles that are not only made from certified eco-conscious materials, but suited for high design. I found this particularly impressive because the fashion design process is already grueling. And, no doubt, these steps added a lot of expense to production costs.

EDUN, founded in 2005 by Ali Hewson and Bono, promotes sustainable employment in developing countries, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa, reads its mission statement. The line's primary focus is trade but it's also working to use more organic materials in the collection.

Even small things like recycling zippers and buttons can make a big difference, says Grady. Props to Yves Saint Laurent for earlier this year unveiling an eco-friendly capsule collection called "New Vintage." The idea was to create classic YSL styles using fabrics from past collections.

If designers can't be innovative, who can?

Damien Hirst is again playing the role of philanthropist (so I have to be nice), along with Raqib Shaw and Marc Quinn. The artists have donated paintings to an auction that London jeweler Laurence Graff is holding for FACET (For Africa's Children Every Time). Graff wants to raise $1.26 million for the organization, which seeks to support the education, health and quality of life of children in Africa ... where Graff Diamonds picks up most of its raw material.

Graff's event follows several other charity auctions this year, all of which were pretty impressive in their results. Sotheby's raised ₤453,950 for two organizations that help orphans in Africa, and Christie's raised an astounding €342.5 million at its Yves Saint Laurent collection auction back in February – the money will be used to fund HIV research and fight the spread of AIDS.

The first lot donated was by Graff himself: diamond earrings estimated to be worth around ₤80,000. The other paintings (e.g., by Hirst) are pegged at around ₤100,000 each.

It's not often that personal taste can be described as exquisite, it denotes a rare confluence of means and sensibility. But there's really no other word that describe the homes put together by late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé quite so well. A new book, The Private World of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé has come out from Vendome Press. The book by Robert Murphy with photography by Ivan Terestchenko is a sumptuous exploration of Saint Laurent and Bergé's multiple homes and expansive collections.

If you've seen some of pieces from the collection which were sold by Christie's for record-breaking sums earlier this year then this is a chance to view the items in situ as they were used by Saint Laurent and Bergé. This is the sort of gorgeous coffee table book (280 pages, 11" x 12 1/4") that inspires dreams. We can't all afford the items that they did but the style, the way or arranging things and of pulling in various objects from different time periods and styles is something anyone can adopt.

Vendome Press was kind enough to send me a copy and I'm giving it away to one lucky reader. To enter leave a comment describing one of your most prized objects.

Some other important details:

* To enter, leave a confirmed comment below.
* The comment must be left and confirmed before September 25, 2009 at 5:00PM Eastern Time.
* You may only enter once.
* One winner will be selected in a random drawing.
* One winner will receive a copy of The Private World of Yves Saint Laurent & Pierre Bergé valued at $95.
* Open to legal residents of the 50 United States and the District of Columbia.

See complete contest rules here.

This contest is now closed. Thank you for your participation.

Recently I mentioned that a second auction of the belongings of the late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent would be going up for sale in November. The AP recently revealed that Saint Laurent's cliffside home in Taniger, Morocco has also hit the market. Christie's Great Estates has announced that Villa Mabrouka, or House of Luck is for sale for an undisclosed price. The five-bedroom home overlooks the Strait of Gibraltar and includes beautiful gardens which surround the home. The interior design was done by renowned decorator Jacques Grange and combines classic Moroccan arcades with details like a living room finished in blue chintz.

Listing pictures are scant but the Daily Mail has a couple pictures from a book, The Private World of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé by Robert Murphy with photographs by Ivan Terestchenko, which give more of a look into the home. This home's style was based on, according to Grange, "the house of an eccentric Englishman who moved to Tangier in the 1950s." The home does not feature much of the couple's famous art collection because as Bergé put it, the pieces that would have worked in the home were by Matisse and already hanging in museums. If they couldn't have the best, the pair decide to go for simplicity instead.

I have to admit I'm not quite ready to see patent black leather in the handbag department -- it's summer! Give me bright colors and light materials for just a couple more months. Yet I find YSL's Spiral Clutch, in black patent leather, intriguing and light-hearted. Perfect for a Lois Lane look alike, the Spiral Clutch makes me think of some fashionably fabulous reporter on-the-go. The glossy vernice patent leather accented by silvertone hardware features a magnetic snap closure and suede lining. Available for pre-order on Saks.com, the $395 clutch is expected to be a hot item -- you can only order three per customer every thirty days. Start stocking up now for your holiday gifts! You'll only be able to buy eighteen of them from now until the end of December! (9 1/2 " x 6" x 1 1/2")

In New York and London, art auction houses for ever dollar they can bring in, but the French have been able to fight back. The number of sales and lots brought to auction has remained stable year over year. And, in the first three months of the year, Paris put up better results than London or New York, thanks to the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint-Laurent sale at the Grand Palais back in February. Historically, Paris has lagged these two cities, but its resilience this year has changed the game a bit.

For the first quarter, art prices in France came down only 5 percent, a level that's been maintained through the rest of the year, so far. Christie's bears much of the responsibility for this success, with some solid auctions this year, though Sotheby's has helped, as well, with a Contemporary Art auction that moved 95.2 percent of the lots offered. Also, Parisian auctions aren't as up-market as those in London and New York, which has muted the effects of the global financial crisis.

In addition to the Yves Saint Laurent sale, which brought in €373.5 million (€255 million for works of art), the late May auctions at Christie's and Sotheby's did perform well relative to past years. The summer is likely to be quiet, with smaller auctions in Paris, but Christie's is bringing a private collection to market with pieces by Henri Laurens, Hans Harp and Henri Michaux, among others. The numbers won't be eye-popping, but expect the momentum to continue.

Vive la resistance!

When summer arrives who doesn't want a light neutral bag with a hint of golden coloring? Yves Saint Laurent pairs classic design, including a signature 'Y' inset, with this airy beige hue creating a truly sunny handbag. The large double-bow ruffle detail adds femininity without employing overstated glitz or glam. The Y-Bow Bowler is subtley sophisticated which could accompany any ensemble from dark jeans and a great top to a simple summer dress. The amande (gold) calf leather is luxurious and the two top handles make it easy to carry along throughout the day or night. Available for $1,795 at Bergdorf Goodman.