tailoring

Ledbury, the Better-Tailored Men's Shirt

A couple of Oxford MBAs recently founded Ledbury, a new men's shirt brand dedicated to better tailoring at the intersection of Savile Row and Ivy Style. Paul Trible and Paul Watson (above) graduated with Oxford MBAs at the height of the economic crisis, literally the day before the Lehman Bros. collapse, and decided to turn their careers from finance to fine fabric. Taking advantage of their proximity to Jermyn Street, London's traditional home of fine haberdashery, the pair learned the art of English shirt-making from one of the street's top craftsman and then fused in their hometown Southern U.S. style to create a brand based in Virginia focusing on fit, quality and style.

"When I was living in London, I would come back to the States and have difficulty finding high quality shirts that provided a tailored look," the Virginia-born Trible explains. "The big name menswear retailers made formless, boxy clothes, while luxury brands charged exorbitant prices. It seemed like there was a real need for an American shirtmaker that offered European quality, English fit and American style, all at an attainable price. We want Ledbury shirts to fit better, feel better and last longer than anything else in your closet." The Classicist recently featured a natty Ledbury chambray creation in a column on seasonal style starring the Mercedes-Benz G-Class.

Tags: dress shirts, entrepreneur, Ledbury, London, mens clothing, mens style, menswear, Oxford, Savile Row, shirts, tailoring, Virginia

France's Faconnable Launches Jeans Collection

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

France's Faconnable Launches Jeans Collection

French fashion label Façonnable, born from a tailor's atelier in Nice in the 1950s, has always been one of our favorite men's style staples. Now the company, which is committed to innovation, quality fabrics, impeccable cuts and singular details, is launching a new line called Façonnable Jeans, adding a contemporary spin to its portfolio. Inspired by the relaxed lifestyle of the Côte d'Azur, Façonnable Jeans offers the best of the world of denim while adhering to the principles of fine tailoring the brand is known for.

Refined stitching; the finest materials such as Japanese chambray; and contemporary fits distinguish the new collection, while prewashing and hand finishing guarantee a soft feel and unique patina. The new collection encompasses more than just jeans to round out the wardrobe, including khakis, washed cotton polos and T-shirts, and various styles of jackets, along with stylish accessories such as pocket squares and handmade ties, shoes, bags, belts, scarves, caps and boxer shorts.

Gallery: Faconnable Jeans Collection

Tags: Apparel, Denim, Façonnable, Faconnable, Fashion, France, Jeans, Mens Clothing, Mens Style, Nice, Shoes, Tailoring, Ties

The Classicist: A Quarter Century of Style at Alan Flusser's New Custom Shop

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

The Classicist: A Quarter Century of Style at Alan Flusser's New Custom Shop

Alan Flusser, author of 2002's Dressing the Man, is our foremost arbiter elegantiarum in matters sartorial; the book remains the reigning bible of men's style. In 1981 he published his first book Making the Man and opened his first custom tailoring shop in New York City in '86; a year later his Master of the Universe wardrobe created for Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street made him an instant icon. Now on the 25th anniversary of the original's debut, Flusser is re-launching the shop with a new look in the space on E. 48th St. it has inhabited since 2002. In recent years someone else handled the day-to-day operations of the shop for Flusser though he remained available for consultations. Now he's decided to take up the reigns once again and usher in a new era of elegance.

"My original vision for the shop had always been a kind of imaginary Savile Row tailor's shop–meets Park Avenue men's club–meets Gertrude Stein for a bullshot," Flusser tells us. "In other words, an environment suffused with Old World taste and totems." As a younger and more 'downtown' crowd has increasingly taken to the merits of fine tailoring, however, Flusser felt it was time for an update, both decor and clothes-wise. Having introduced a slimmer fitting, more body conscious silhouette – the "Vanderbilt" – to his repertoire in 2008, Flusser "wanted the look of the shop to more closely reflect that sleeker sartorial idiom." Enter silver walls, alligator skin tables, 1940s leather and chrome furniture, black lacquer fittings, and of course a cocktail bar. [cont'd]

Gallery: Alan Flusser Custom Shop

Tags: Alan Flusser, alan+flusser+custom, alanflussercustom, bespoke, clothing, custom, mens style, New York, Savile Row, suits, tailoring, the+classicist, theclassicist

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Frosdick of London Offers World's Most Expensive Bespoke Wardrobe

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Luxury Cars & Autos, Men's Style

Frosdick of London, makers of the beautiful bespoke safari boots we wrote about back in April, is offering a unique opportunity to acquire "the most expensive wardrobe in the history of tailoring" - complete with a custom luxury car to match - for $1 million. The one-of-a-kind "Million-Dollar Dandy" package includes 14 bespoke Savile Row suits, made from the purchaser's choice of the world's finest fabrics; 28 custom-tailored dress shirts; 28 custom-made silk ties; and 14 pairs of bespoke shoes and boots created from exotic leathers. The suits, shirts and ties will all be handmade by Henry Poole of Savile Row, the famed tailor favored by British royalty. The shoes and boots will be crafted by another royal favorite, London's Schnieder of Clifford Street. Complementing the more formal attire will be a selection of elegant smoking jackets and dressing gowns.

The latter will be made by Prince Charles' tailor Turnbull & Asser, enhanced by discreet accents in diamonds and precious metals, along with the Million-Dollar Dandy crest. All measurements and subsequent fittings prior to actual completion will be carried out in London. Frosdick of London will then commission the Queen of England's nephew, furniture designer Viscount David Linley, to craft a bespoke wardrobe in precious woods to house it all. Finally, the Million-Dollar Dandy will receive a bespoke motorcar hand built by Bristol, the last wholly British-owned luxury car builder in existence. The truly unique vehicles are not sold through any dealers or distributors, maintaining the note of ultimate exclusivity conveyed by the custom clothing. Email david@frosdickoflondon.com for more info.

[via JustLuxe]

Tags: bespoke, Bristol, British royalty, David Linley, Frosdick of London, London, mens style, most expensive, Prince Charles, Queen of England, Savile Row, suit, tailoring, UK

Enzo Ferrari's Bespoke Clothing for Sale at $100,000

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Luxury Cars & Autos, Men's Style

Ferrari founder Enzo Ferrari was obviously a man of great style - just look at the supercars bearing his name. For Ferrari enthusiasts he is of course nothing short of a god as well. Now Collector Studio Motorsport Gallery in Toronto is offering the ultimate in Ferrari memorabilia – a museum quality collection of Enzo's bespoke clothing and accessories, priced at $100,000. The highlight of the collection is an original Bertazzoni of Modena custom tailored beige wool houndstooth sport coat made for the great man in 1972, and worn for the next 10 years, including at the 1972 AutoSport ceremony, along with a pair of bespoke Bertazzoni gray flannel pants he wore with it.

Also included is an original and totally unique "Ferrari" brown and white silk necktie custom made for Enzo in 1978, and worn for the next 10 years; and an original pair of bespoke Marelli brown leather shoes worn by him in the 1970s and 1980s, complete with box. The collection comes accompanied by a letter of authenticity from a Ferrari colleague of Enzo's who acquired the items from him directly, as well as many photos of Enzo wearing each item. Also included are the original notes from the Modenese tailor who made the clothing, along with fabric swatch samples and measurements to match.

[via JustLuxe]

Tags: bespoke, Collector Studio Motorsport Gallery, collectors items, cothing, Enzo Ferrari, Ferrari, Italy, memorabilia, mens style, Modena, necktie, supercar, tailoring, ties, Toronto

The Classicist: E. Tautz, A Sartorial Star Reborn on Savile Row

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

E. Tautz & Sons, the venerable fine men's tailoring firm founded by Edward Tautz in London in 1867, has been resurrected by Savile Row's Norton & Sons to carry on its impeccable sartorial standards in a new century. Tautz began as a sporting tailor and introduced many innovations such as waterproof tweeds and knickerbocker breeches for the hunting set. By 1897 Tautz had been granted a Royal Warrant from the King of Italy, The King and Queen of Spain and The Emperor of Austria. Winston Churchill placed his first order with the firm in 1895 and continued to be a valued customer for the next 20 years; later on Tautz dressed such natty notables as David Niven and Cary Grant, and in 1968 the company was incorporated into the larger Savile Row firm of Norton & Sons and ceased to be a standalone label.

As Norton's owner Patrick Grant explained to Style Salvage, though quality on the level of Tautz's offerings doesn't come cheap, fine tailoring in the bespoke tradition pays for itself in the long run. "Tailoring is an incredibly efficient way of buying clothes cost wise and you really get what you pay for," he notes. "You are getting tremendous value for money if you go to a tailor and it just so happens that [Tautz is] in the middle of a community of the best tailors in the world. 'The only name in your suit should be your own' is the old adage and that is a nice way of thinking about it." Of course, custom made isn't for everyone, but Tautz is the next best thing as it shares many of the same tailoring methods with Norton's Savile Row workshops.

"We champion the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear," reads Tautz's mission statement. "We adhere to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VIII said it best. 'Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." FIne fabrics including the world's best wools and cashmere are a cornerstone of the Tautz style. Prices for Tautz's new ready-to-wear collection start at $300 for cotton sport shirts, $600 for knitwear, $1,500 for outerwear and $1,700 for sport coats. To begin with the collection will be sold in the U.S. exclusively through Barneys New York.

Gallery: The Return of E. Tautz

Tags: Barneys, Barneys New York, bespoke, Cary Grant, cashmere, David Niven, E. Tautz, E. Tautz Sons, hunting, London, Norton Sons, Royal Warrant, Savile Row, tailoring, Winston Churchill

The Classicist: Dunhill Custom Tailoring for Spring & Summer

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

Back in March we reported that London luxury goods firm Dunhill was opening a new custom tailoring floor of its Madison Avenue flagship store in New York, the first of its kind in the U.S. Now we have more details of their custom tailoring program, featuring a selection of over 250 of the finest British and Italian cloths. Clients can create suits, jackets, trousers and shirts solely designed for their individual lifestyle or demands. Overseen by Bruno Cosentino, Dunhill's resident master tailor who personally hand makes every bespoke item, the space is entirely dedicated to the brand's exceptional tailoring service. A Dunhill custom suit undergoes 165 separate, meticulous operations performed by skilled artisans, with some 200 individual pieces going into making a jacket alone. Each jacket is expertly constructed using a floating canvas front allowing it to mold to the body over time. The Custom program offers a choice of two cuts – the House's signature St James' block, inspired by the archetypal Savile Row suit with several distinctive Dunhill touches, or the slimmer Belgravia fit defined by a suppressed waist, built up chest and sharper shoulders.

A suit can further be personalized by straight or slanted pockets, center or side vents and notch or peak lapels. Distinctive Dunhill silhouettes are enhanced by the introduction of a lightly 'roped' shoulder providing a typically English outline. This additional mark of luxury raises the crown of the sleeve slightly, ensuring the purest of lines from shoulder to sleeve. High performance fabrics are available including a 3-ply high twist super 130's wool and silk fabric in a range of blues and greys. The classic Dunhill custom blazer can be created in the finest of Camdeboo mohair (above) which is lightweight, boasts great performance properties and travels beautifully, keeping the wearer warm in the cold but cool in the heat. Each Dunhill custom item will be completed and presented within two months. Once the design of the pattern is complete, it then becomes part of the Alfred Dunhill archives, kept in reserve for returning clients seeking additional bespoke services. Dunhill's custom tailoring tradition includes a tuxedo made for Truman Capote to wear at his infamous Black & White Ball in the 1960s as well as bespoke suits made for Frank Sinatra.

Gallery: Dunhill Custom Tailoring in NYC

Tags: bespoke, Dunhill, English, fabric, jacket, linen, London, mens style, Savile Row, suits, tailoring

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Hardy Amies Returns to Its Savile Row Roots

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

Hardy Amies, the firm named for the British couturier who opened a shop on Savile Row in 1946 and went on to design gowns for the Queen of England, is returning to its men's tailoring roots. The move comes after the company nearly went bankrupt in 2008 following an ill-timed expansion into ready-to-wear women's clothing and accessories, while the original bespoke business was neglected. On Monday the company announced that in a bid to avoid further financial problems it was returning to its founder's original purpose, and wwill now concentrate on being "the quintessential English tailor" providing fine tweeds and bespoke suits to well-heeled gentlemen. A bespoke suit, the company said, would start from about $5,400. The company's new owners are the investment arm of the £8 billion global trading company run by brothers Victor and William Fung. Sir Hardy Amies himself died in 2003 at the robust age of 93.

Source

Tags: bespoke, Hardy Amies, London, mens style, Queen of England, Savile Row, suits, tailoring, UK

Isaia to Launch Sartorial Sneaker Collection

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style

Isaia, one of the world's last remaining Neapolitan sartorial brands, known for its beautiful tailored clothing, is launching a luxe new line of sneakers that bridge the gap between dress and sport. The sartorial sneakers take the classic wingtip brogue dress shoe and give it a dose of sporty sprezzatura. They will be available in a variety of fabrics combining luxurious leathers, suede, wools, and even water-resistant cashmere, in rich hues of navy, camel, chocolate brown and shades of grey, with a patterned wool option available as well. The sneakers can also be custom ordered with specific suiting fabrics from the firm's made-to-measure tailoring program. All parts of the shoes are handmade, with the leather and fabric materials matched and dyed with all natural bee's wax. The new line will be available this fall at select stores including Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue with a suggested retail price of $425.

Tags: cashmere, Isaia, Isaia di Napoli, Italian fashion, Naples, sneakers, tailoring

Dunhill Opens 1st U.S. Bespoke Tailoring Floor in NYC

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

London luxury goods firm Dunhill has just announced the opening of the new bespoke and custom tailoring floor of its Madison Avenue flagship store in New York (above), the first of its kind in the U.S. Overseen by Bruno Cosentino, Dunhill's resident master tailor who personally hand makes every bespoke item, the space is entirely dedicated to the brand's exceptional tailoring service. Working one-on-one with each client to create the ultimate in tailoring indulgence, Cosentino first guides clients through thousands of luxurious fabrics, from the finest 'super grade' wools to Mongolian cashmeres and lightweight linens. The master tailor then suggests appropriate fits and styling to complement the client's lifestyle and ways to personalize each sartorial investment. Once the design of the pattern is complete, it then becomes part of the Alfred Dunhill archives, kept in reserve for returning clients seeking additional bespoke services. Dunhill's custom tailoring tradition includes a tuxedo made for Truman Capote to wear at his infamous Black & White Ball in the 1960s as well as bespoke suits made for Frank Sinatra.

Tags: Dunhill, Frank Sinatra, London, New York, suits, tailoring, Truman Capote

The Classicist: Bespoke by David Chu

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

Last month we wrote about the timeless appeal of classic men's tailoring as epitomized by Savile Row, especially during times of economic uncertainty. There's no need to travel all the way to London however to indulge in custom-tailoring of the highest quality and style that transcends trends and fads, if you know where to look. In New York City, David Chu, founder of the Nautica brand who has since gone on to revitalize luggage maker Tumi, operates an ultra-chic Bespoke shop at his gorgeous Townhouse in Gramercy Park.

The Bespoke shop (above) is located in the penthouse of the Townhouse, which is home to Chu's design studio and other businesses. Ebonized and limestone floors, marble fixtures and a collection of contemporary artwork and Chinese antiquities create an elegant, polished and modern atmosphere. French doors open out from the shop onto a landscaped roof deck with captivating city and park views. "The bespoke experience is about understated elegance," Chu tells Luxist. "It's more for yourself. You put it on, it feels great, and that's the most important thing."

David Chu Bespoke "blends the best of Savile Row and Neapolitan tailoring, marrying craftsmanship with modernity." Garments are hand-cut and stitched by a master tailor based in Naples. A gentleman can order anything he requires to be custom made, from suits, overcoats, tuxedos, and sport jackets to trousers, shoes, scarves, and 12-fold ties. The emphasis is on classic, luxurious fabrics such as super 150's wool, worsted spun cashmere and vicuna sourced from the world's best mills.

Gallery: David Chu Bespoke

Tags: David Chu, DavidChu, Gramercy Park, GramercyPark, Naples, New York, New York City, NewYork, NewYorkCity, Savile Row, SavileRow, Tailoring, Tumi

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The Classicist: Why Savile Row Will Survive the Crash

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

The seemingly endless gloomy news about the economy got us thinking about the financial crisis' effect on Savile Row, the home of luxury bespoke tailoring. As my colleague Deirdre Woolard reported last month, Hardy Amies, which opened on Savile Row in 1946, is facing bankruptcy. Of course, Amies' ambitious expansion plans are partly to blame. We asked Anda Rowland, owner of Anderson & Sheppard, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary, what the outlook is for the Row's traditional tailoring firms.

"We are still getting new customers and many enquiries, but it has to be said that London is not really in the mood to spend and people are traveling [to London] less," Rowland tells Luxist. "Luckily, despite the turn away from 'bling' spending, there has been a renewed interest in goods that have an underlying value, which is perceived as more solid and easier to understand and to explain to the customer. There is a shift from the 'Because I'm worth it' attitude towards one questioning 'Was it worth it?'"

Rowland notes that this "will be hard for the mass-luxury goods and the over-hyped but extremely lucrative 'it-bag' industry, but good for individual, high-craft items made by skilled hands," such as Savile Row suits. "We also have ethical trends in our favor as everyone faces up to the enormous piles of barely worn 'fast fashion' garments in landfill sites all over Europe at a time when many are losing the roofs over their heads." Due to this, Rowland says, "We have not seen a reduction in sales or customer figures from last year," merely "a recent slowing of momentum."

Gallery: Savile Row Style

Asked about the influx of money from emerging markets, "Speaking for Anderson & Sheppard, we have not seen a growth in customers from Russia or from the UAE," she replies. "We have had more press interest, but it has not filtered through to visits yet. China and India are growing markets [for us] due, perhaps, to a historical familiarity with the history and tradition of Savile Row." As for the future, "I have heard from the other tailors that they believe that their trips abroad will be more and more important over the next couple of years," Rowland says. "They feel that customers will be traveling far less and that overseas service will help them to keep the workshops busy and running efficiently."

Summing up, Rowland, who inherited the business a few years back from her father, is optimistic. "As a relative newcomer to this industry where most houses are at least 100 years old, I am reassured by the reaction of most tailors who say that their firms have seen it all several times before," she tells us. "I can imagine that for many of the big designer brands that are much younger, it is harder to be as quietly confident as we are on Savile Row."

Tags: Anda Rowland, AndaRowland, Anderson Sheppard, AndersonSheppard, Bespoke, London, Savile Row, SavileRow, Tailoring

New "Bespoke" Ruling: A Blow to Savile Row?

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

There's quite a row on Savile Row over the UK Advertising Standards Authority's brand new ruling that suits which are not entirely handmade may now be sold as "bespoke." It has horrified some Savile Row stalwarts who've long fought to protect their trade from such encroachments; late last year tailor's guild the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) trademarked the term "Savile Row Bespoke" to prevent parvenus from taking unfair advantage. According to the SRBA's guidelines, to qualify as bespoke a suit must be crafted from a choice of at least 2,000 fabrics and its construction requires at least 50 hours of hand-stitching.

However, SRBA board member Anda Rowland, owner of storied 100-year-old Row house Anderson & Sheppard, tells Luxist she is taking the philosophical view. While lamenting the ruling's implied lack of respect for Britain's tailoring trade, to her way of thinking a fellow who would be content with a faux-Row suit merely made-to-measure was "never a true bespoke customer in the first place" she tells us, while any connoisseur "will ultimately be able to spot the difference between true bespoke tailoring and incorrectly labeled imitations." In the meantime, made-to-measure garments, no matter what they're sold as, can continue to serve their proper purpose: "providing a bridge from ready-to-wear to bespoke."

For those seeking sartorial enlightenment, Rowland notes the SRBA has launched a website, savilerowbespoke.com, to help them on their path to proper tailoring. In addition, when Anderson & Sheppard moved into its new premises at 32 Old Burlington Street, Rowland says, "we opened up our workrooms especially to confront the confusion that potential customers might have over the increasing number of terms being used to describe made-to-measure... Since moving, we have been welcoming more and more first time customers who have done research through word of mouth, reputable press and the Internet and therefore have a very good idea of why they have come to us." No mere ruling no matter how barmy will change that.

Pictured above is Savile Row maverick Ozwald Boateng. See the gallery for more.

Gallery: Savile Row Style

Tags: Anderson Sheppard, AndersonSheppard, Bespoke, England, London, Mens suits, MensSuits, Ozwald Boateng, OzwaldBoateng, Savile Row, Savile Row Bespoke Association, SavileRow, SavileRowBespokeAssociation, tailoring

The Classicist: A Savile Row Makeover

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

Welcome to The Classicist, our new column devoted to timeless style, enduring elegance, and true, built-to-last luxury as opposed to mere extravagance....

Savile Row stalwart Anderson & Sheppard, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary, is steeped in tradition, to say the least. Yet while other old-fashioned bastions of upper-class masculine British taste have been sold off or hideously modernized, A&S has managed to adapt and survive -- thanks to a strong-willed woman.

Anda Rowland, daughter of the firm's longtime owner, natty British millionaire Roland "Tiny" Rowland, who took over the business a few years ago, has set about bringing it into the 21st century without sacrificing one whit in the way of elegance.

The firm not only outfitted the great Fred Astaire - perhaps the best dressed man the modern world has ever known - but also Rudolph Valentino, Charlie Chaplin, authors Evelyn Waugh and Somerset Maugham, Gary Cooper, Noel Coward, Sir Laurence Olivier, Douglas Fairbanks Sr. and Duke Ellington.

Gallery: Anderson & Sheppard: Savile Row Style