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Duncan Quinn's Killer Looks for Fall

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style


Duncan Quinn, the London-born, New York-based menswear designer whose Savile Row-with-a-twist togs are favored by the likes of Sean Combs, Entourage star Adrien Grenier, LeBron James and alt-rockers Green Day, has come out with a new collection of killer looks for fall. Quinn's inspiration for the season "comes from a misspent youth and perennial love for the gentleman, the rogue and the gentleman rogue," the designer notes, citing as influences Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair and Peter O'Toole in How to Steal a Million. Suits are made from the finest fabrics, in chalkstripes, sharkskin, mohair and cashmere, woven in England to Quinn's specifications in understated colors like black, charcoal and gunmetal. Above is a bespoke gunmetal wool and mohair suit with a ticket pocket ($5,000), worn with a pink cotton herringbone french cuff shirt, "gangster chic" motif silk tie, fleur-de-lys enamel and sterling silver cufflinks and a bespoke wool and cashmere overcoat, photographed outside Robert de Niro's Greenwich Hotel.

The Classicist: The Best of Men's Style

Filed under: Apparel, Shoes, Men's Style, The Classicist


For your reading and viewing pleasure we present the first in a series looking back at highlights from the first year of The Classicist, the weekly column devoted to timeless style, enduring elegance, and true, built-to-last luxury as opposed to mere extravagance. For our first installment we present the best of Men's Style, from Savile Row to Italy and New York and back again, with suits, jackets, cashmere, shoes, accessories and everything in between. These are not the sort of things that ever really go out of fashion, so if you haven't already added to your wardrobe with some of these staples it's not too late.



1. Anderson & Sheppard of Savile Row

Savile Row stalwart Anderson & Sheppard, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary, is steeped in tradition, to say the least. Yet while other old-fashioned bastions of upper-class masculine British taste have been sold off or hideously modernized, A&S has managed to adapt and survive. The firm not only outfitted the great Fred Astaire - perhaps the best dressed man the modern world has ever known - but also Rudolph Valentino, Charlie Chaplin, authors Evelyn Waugh and Somerset Maugham, Gary Cooper, Noel Coward, Sir Laurence Olivier, Douglas Fairbanks Sr. and Duke Ellington.



2. David Chu Bespoke

In New York City, David Chu, founder of the Nautica brand, operates an ultra-chic Bespoke shop at his gorgeous Townhouse in Gramercy Park. "The bespoke experience is about understated elegance," Chu told The Classicist. David Chu Bespoke "blends the best of Savile Row and Neapolitan tailoring, marrying craftsmanship with modernity." Garments are hand-cut and stitched by a master tailor based in Naples. A gentleman can order anything he requires to be custom made, from suits, overcoats, tuxedos, and sport jackets to trousers, shoes, scarves, and 12-fold ties.



3. Dunhill's Timeless Classics

In times of economic uncertainty luxury consumers looks to timeless classics they know will hold their value and last for years as opposed to flash-in-the-pan trends and glitzy impulse buys. We think that London-based men's clothier and luxury goods firm Dunhill, which dates back to the 1890s, is well situated to weather the storm in similar style thanks to their espousal of these same values. That's a very good thing as the company recently opened two new flagship stores, in New York City and London. The 7,000-sq.-ft. NYC store (above), on the corner of Madison and 55th, replaces the old shop at 711 Fifth Avenue.



4. Duncan Quinn - The Coolest

Quinn , who makes some of the world's coolest suits, isn't exactly a tailor, though "designer" doesn't really capture it either. So how would he put it? "I simply have a strong view and an aesthetic to go with that view," he told The Classicist, "which encompasses the cars, wine, sailboats, cocktails and croquet." Sounds good to us. The dashing London-born former lawyer makes Savile Row-style clothes "constructed to celebrate days of glory and nights of excess." He opened his first shop in New York in 2003, and along the way he's attracted quite a following of well-dressed fellows, "gentleman rogues" who ascribe to the Quinn aesthetic.



5. Loro Piana Luxe

Italian luxury label Loro Piana makes the most comfortable, classic, stylish and subtly luxurious clothes we've ever had the pleasure of putting on. World-famous for their cashmere, the 200-year-old company, which began as a textile merchant, has also branched out into other areas (including accessories and women's clothing) in more recent years with equal success. Loro Piana's motto has it that true luxury is "knowing, not showing," i.e. dressing for yourself, not to impress others. It's "an inner satisfaction that comes from an aesthetic, intellectual, tactile pleasure, stemming from tradition, research and genuine quality." What could be better than that?



Continued after the jump.

Paul Smith Debuts Exclusive Collection for Barneys

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

Brilliant British designer Sir Paul Smith (right) is teaming up with Barneys New York to launch an exclusive new limited edition menswear collection. Titled simply "Exclusive", the line of suiting, separates and shirting was designed with the urbane Barneys New York customer in mind and will only be available at Barneys flagships.

Manufactured in Italy using Italian and British cloths, Paul Smith Exclusive has a modern, tailored silhouette, "finished with the design twists and styling details that have become synonymous with the Paul Smith brand," such as colorful linings.

Suits feature subtle stripes and Prince of Wales checks on gray and navy grounds, while shirting is bright with striped and checked designs on white bases. Velvet evening jackets and weekend sport coats complete the exclusive and extremely natty collection. Smith also just opened a new store in San Francisco.

Brioni to Sell a 25% Stake

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

Classic luxury Italian fashion brand Brioni, best known for outfitting Pierce Brosnan during his tenure as James Bond (right), is looking to sell a 25% stake in the business. "This is a family company. We need to think about the future and ways to develop the brand," Brioni CEO Antonella De Simone tells WWD.

The company, founded in Rome in 1945 and named after a resort on the Adriatic Sea, makes ready-to-wear and bespoke men's suits costing from $6,000 - $36,000, and has a women's line as well. Some of its luster may have been lost when James Bond switched to Tom Ford, but the brand is undeniably valuable.

Who Are You Wearing, James Bond?

Filed under: Apparel, Celebrity Shopping


James Bond is famous for a few things, elegant cocktails, beautiful women, danger, and always being a sharp-dressed man. The honor of being the tailor that puts James Bond in his suits has gone to the Italian house of Brioni since Pierce Brosnan suited up for Goldeneye in 1995. But the London TImes reports that Brioni will no longer be dressing Mr. Bond. Instead he will be dressed by the one and only Tom Ford. Ford hasn't commented on this yet and no details have leaked out. I wonder what the more traditional James Bond fans will think when they get curious about Tom Ford and visit his website. Tom makes some pretty elegant suits but his flashy sexually suggestive persona seems a bit too metro for James Bond.

[Thanks, Lana]

Tom James Company Personalized Pinstripe Suits

Filed under: Apparel


The Tom James Company has created an intriguing new idea for your business suit, putting your name in pinstripes. Starting in January 2008, the company will offer the Tom James Signature Collection, which is a collection of custom suits, made of the fabrics available from Saville Row's Holland & Sherry. Anyone can personalize their suit's pinstripes using family member names, company mottos or even, in some instances, logos. The Signature Collection suits are available for both men and women range from $13,000 to $25,000.

Bobbie Nudie, 1913-2006

Filed under: Apparel

Bobbie Nudie, woman who started Nudie's Rodeo Tailors, passed away last week. She and her husband, Nudie Cohn, designed clothes for celebrities from Elvis Presley to Arnold Schwarzenegger, including famous outfits like Elvis's gold lame suit, and put hundreds and thousands of rhinestones on the clothes of country singers everywhere. Their remarkable costumes, which were made to suit their motto that "it is better to be looked over than overlooked," are highly collectible today and sell for upwards of $1000 when in good condition.

Corneliani 2006 Spring collection

Filed under: Apparel

Corneliani, makers of fine Italian suits, is set to open their first shop-in-shop in Saks Fifth Avenue in New York this fall. These fashionable needle workers are known for their avant-garde fabrics and cuts. Seeing the sea as the most important element has inspired their 2006 colors with the crystal clear depths of turquoises and emerald greens. From ivory to mother-of-pearl and up to slate gray, sophisticated elegance is conveyed through the stretch of whites, honeys and grays. With 150 fabrics and 250 exclusive patterns at your disposal, your custom measured suit will be cut and sewn in Mantova, Italy to be delivered in 3 weeks.


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