sarah burton

The Fashion Statement: Paris Wraps It Up

Last but definitely not least. Paris provided the grand finale this week to a string of fashion weeks around the globe that began in New York early September.

While not quite as colorful as their Italian counterparts, Parisian designers delivered collections consistent their houses' heritages. In other words, each brands' fans will be happy. Some of the highlights:

Alexander McQueen was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. It was the first full collection for Sarah Burton who was thrust into the head designer role when the designer committed suicide earlier this year. The verdict? There were stunners such as the ombrè gown pictured above as well as white low-rise pants with two buckles on each hip and sculptural dresses. It's not quite the same anger, beauty or arty story that has always defined the label. But how can it be? I would hate to be Burton who must be burdened with endless comparisons to the late genius.

Chanel's show was darker and more deconstructed than usual. Black dresses looked they had been eaten by moths, edges were tattered, and there were much less fussy versions of the signature Chanel suit. Ines de la Fressange modeled my favorite piece-a black sheer floor-length gown with a cutaway skirt that revealed a slimmer skirt underneath. The gown's blouson featured heavy black stripes reminiscent of Maori tribal tattoos.

Tags: alexander mcqueen, chanel, ines de la fressange, Louis Vuitton, marc jacobs, paris fashion week, sarah burton, valentino, valenton gharavani

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The Fashion Statement: Luxury in Flux

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) —

Filed under: The Fashion Statement

You can blame plenty of things on the recession, but luxury fashion may never be the same.

Houses are way past worrying whether the haute couture segment of their business will live or die. Now the industry is lowering the prices of their ready-to-wear collections, investing more in cheaper secondary lines and producing small collections for cheap chic retailers like H&M. More people probably know Zac Posen from his capsule line for Target than for his self-named ready-to-wear collection that hangs at Saks or Neiman Marcus.

Is this the end of luxury-largely defined by exclusivity-as we know it?

The house of Valentino caused a dust up at a Reuters Global Luxury Summit late last week. Never having sold an evening gown for less than 2,000 euros, Valentino is offering cocktail dresses for half that and T-shirts priced at about $300. The main question at the summit: How can Valentino be more accessible without losing its luxury appeal?

"Being more affordable means you are trying to get new customers on board," Valentino's CEO Stefano Sassi told the summit. "We are not stretching down the brand. We are trying to say that you can be both couture and contemporary."

Tags: Emanuel Ungaro, Hermes, LindsayLohan, luxury fashion, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Olivier Theyskins, Pier Paolo Piccioli, Saks Fifth Avenue, Sarah Burton, Valentino

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