retrograde

Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moon Phases Watch

Watch dials that make use of a number of retrograde hands that display a lot of information are hard to pull off. They simply end up making dials look cluttered and really hard to read. So when a brand designs a watch with a dial that has a few retrograde hands, and it looks good - then there is reason to take notice. I first noticed the good looks of the Longines Master Collection Retrograde Moon Phases at Baselworld 2011 where it was being debuted. It immediately "spoke" to me, and I think others will like it as well.

Longines will offer the watch in a 41mm wide or 44mm wide steel case with a black or silvered dial. The dial is engraved with a decorative pattern. Inside the watch is a Swiss automatic movement that has four retrograde hands. These are for GMT time, the date, day, and seconds. The watch also has the time, moon phase indicator, and a day/night indicator. Really a lot going on, but it isn't intimidating to look at. The watch is available on a black or brown alligator strap with a price of 3,500 Swiss Francs.

Ariel Adams publishes the wrist watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: collection, longines, master, retrograde, watch, watches

Ebel Classic Hexagon Retrograde Power Reserve Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Yet another variation on the "modern" Ebel Classic Hexagon, is this Retrograde Power Reserve watch that you see before you. How does it fit into the Ebel watch line? They already have calender watches, they already have retrograde watches, they already have rose gold watches. So consider it a not-so-identical twin. The dial layout seems a bit haphazard to me. Not the elegant loveliness that you seen in some of the other Classic Hexagon watches. Too much of the dial looks bare, while the bottom looks heavy. A good example of bad symmetry. Not like I would refuse the watch if Ebel handed one to me, but not my choice pick by any means.

The 45.4mm wide case is in 18k rose gold, crystal is sapphire, and the watch is only water resistant to 50 meters. I do like the contrasting polished and brushed surfaces on the case, and the way the strap forms to the case is smooth and well done. Movement is an automatic Soprod caliber 9094 movement (base ETA). You can see the functions include the time, day, date on a retrograde scale, and a power reserve indicator.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: classic hexagon, ClassicHexagon, ebel, gold, power reserve, PowerReserve, retrograde, watch

Concord C1 BiRetrograde Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Concord has recently lost its CEO in a ballsy move where Vincent Perriard jumped ship and left for greener pastures as TechnoMarine. Likely suffering an identity crisis, it remains to be seen where Concord will end up in a year from now. A new release from the Movado Group-owned watch maker is this C1 BiRetrograde watch. It is an amicable attempt to spruce up the quickly aging C1 design (that I was never fond of), but you'd not likely realize it was a new model unless that fact was pointed out to you.

The dial features two retrograde ("BiRetrograde") indicators for the day of the week and the date. The long arms frame the rear of the appropriate day or number of the transparent dials. The effect is nice, but not luxury watch nice. You can see that the entire face is partially transparent with a view to the Concord C101 automatic movement below with some nice Cotes de Geneve engraving on it. Oddly enough, this watch will be offered only in 18k rose gold or platinum (44mm wide case). An odd choice of high-luxury materials for this watch that doesn't have THAT high a luxury character - as the complications are nothing to hold a press conference about. You still have the "generous" amounts of rubber on the case and bezel. Seen above is the C1 BiRetrograde in platinum - and it is attached to the rubber strap. The look of the timepiece will either suit you or not. Regular readers will know that I am less than enthused by the overall Concord C1 design, though this watch isn't the flagrant "look how cool Concord is" timepiece that some in the past have been. The best part of the watch is the simple asymmetric watch dial with applied lume covered hour markers. Look for the watch to be available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: biretrograde, c1, concord, retrograde, timepiece, watch

Louis Moinet Tempograph 10 Second Retrograde Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

The real allure of this Louis Moinet Tempograph watch are the looks. The classically futuristic form is based on master watch maker Louis Moinet's 200 year old designs - and give you a Jules Verne type of mofit on your wrist. You can literally pick out these designs from Louis Moinet's old manuscripts - and they have been beautifully composed into watches like the Tempograph. The name refers to the unique retrograde seconds hand that measures in 10 second increments before moving to the initial position. Watching the seconds go by can be like watching a musical tempo meter. The retrograde seconds hand is horizontally aligned and covers most of the face. The hours and minutes are placed in a smaller dial at the top of the face.

Other elements of the watch serve to highlight the movement rich complication with the unique Louis Moinet charm in a large 47mm wide case, available in two shades of rose gold. The case and dial also include titanium, PVD (black colored) coated steel, and a dial that is available in black of silver. The pictured Tempograph is the Ref. LM-13.40.50/60 in rose gold and should be available soon. This is also the same watch featured on the side of Louis Moinet's Primetime Race Group's sponsored # 11 Dodge Viper car in this season's American Le Mans race series.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: louis moinet, LouisMoinet, retrograde, tempograph, timepiece, watch

Milus Tirion TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton 1919 Limited Edition Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

The TriRetrograde Seconds complication put Milus back on the horology map and was first placed in their Herios line of watches that featured a square case. The follow up timepiece using the successful TriRetrograde Seconds movement from Milus is this Tirion Skeleton 1919 Limited Edition (of 38 pieces) watch. The obvious purpose of this watch is to imbue a classic looking design with the handsome and visually stimulating complication. Remove your gaze from the watch face and focus on the case and strap alone - you have just a nicely put together, but conservative watch for the most part. Add in the skeletonized dial with the TriRetrograde Seconds complication, and you start to have something interesting, yet classic feeling.

The striking feature about the dial aside from the complications is the depth of it. There are several true layers and each is interesting in its own right. Outermost is the numeral dial that the well-conceived hands easily reach. Thus you can ignore the middle of the watch for brevity's sake when you just want to know the time. Spend a little bit more time on the dial and you can watch the simple but gratifying TriRetrograde seconds complication. Three retrograde dials each measure 20 seconds. They operate one at a time moving clockwise - being fun to watch. In addition to this, a date dial is viewable at 6 o'clock. The case itself is large at 45mm wide and done in rose gold for this limited edition. Overall, the Tirion TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton 1919 limited edition is another classy but stimulating timepiece from Milus.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: 1919, limited edition, LimitedEdition, milus, retrograde, skeletonized, timepiece, tirion, triretrograde, watch

Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro Limited Edition Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

This limited edition (just 21 pieces with gold and 201 pieces with steel) watch from Pierre DeRoche is an obvious reaction to the success of the Milus TriRetrograde watch line. The Milus uses three 20 second retrograde counters to indicate the seconds, while the TNT Royal Retro watch from Pierre DeRoche has six separate retrograde counters that count 10 seconds each. The small tapered window in each counter fills with red while that specific counter is activated and operating. There is no specific functional advantage to the look - as it is merely for style. Though, as far as style goes it is one of the most visually interesting novelty complications that I know of.

I am a big fan of the case and dial design of the TNT Royal Retro watch (though I am unsure what is specifically retro about it). The multi-piece construction of the 47.5mm wide case takes titanium, either 18k rose gold or steel, and a plethora of (likely) steel stylized screws to form the handsome case. Most of the case is in satin finished titanium, with the lug and crown structures in what is either gold or steel. It is a fabulously tasteful yet mechanical look.

Inside the watch is a base Dubois Depraz movement modified by Pierre DeRoche, who makes no secret as to how their modifications work (visible through the skeletonized dial on PVD steel). While the functions are simple - being the date and time - the watch has the appearance of offering so much more complication. It is a technically innovative dial design that I don't fear will look dated anytime soon. I also like how the crocodile strap is specially curved at the ends to better form to the case. Click on the "continue reading" link for a video of the Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro watch in action.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Gallery: Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro Watch

Tags: pierre deroche, PierreDeroche, retrograde, timepiece, tnt royal retro, TntRoyalRetro, watch

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Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Lune Retrograde Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

maurice lacroix masterpiece lune retrograde watch

The last few years have seen watch maker Maurice Lacroix experiment with creating that perfect design which lies smack in the middle between classic watches (looks from makes such as Breguet) and refined futurism. It is up for debate whether they have achieved this effort, but the Masterpiece Lune Retrograde is certainly a step in the right direction. Alas, you'll see classic elements made modern. Liberal use of sharp angles and skeletonization replace traditional decorations such as dial engraving gently sweeping edges.

I can't wait to see this 46 mm monster in action. Very few "classy" watch are born in this diameter. The new in-house made ML 152 movement, offers some useful complications. Included are a calendar with the date and day, moon phase under a textured semi-transparent material, power reserve indicator, and time (of course). The little touches on the watch are what make it standout. For example, the applied Arabic numerals are finely done, the gear-like crown has a great industrial quality to it, and the hands are just right to be both classic and modern. The refined skeletonized utilitarian facade never gets in the way of a classy demeanor as well. Notice the adjustment pushers integrated together in a cluster beneath the crown on the side of the case. Overall, the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Lune Retrograde is is a fine example of modern innovation and traditional sentiment all rolled together in one watch. Look for the official release at Baselword soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: lune, Masterpiece, Maurice Lacroix, MauriceLacroix, retrograde, timepiece, watch

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Tourbillon R�trograde Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Luxury watch maker Maurice Lacroix releases a daunting number of new models each year with an occasional ultra high end addition to their product line. This luxurious model is the limited edition of 30 pieces, Masterpiece Tourbillon Rétrograde timepiece, released in honor of Maurice Lacriox's 30th anniversary. Any "Masterpiece" label on a Maurice Lacroix watch signifies something special above and beyond mere "mainstream luxury." This 43.5mm wide platinum cased wonder is a traditionalist watch collector's dream. The manually-wound hand-built and decorated Maurice Lacroix caliber ML 110 tourbillon movement features and impressive 90 hours of power reserve, with a full visual exhibition through double sapphire crystals. The 232 components in the movement are hand fabricated while every nanometer of polish on the movement is applied by hand.

The functions on the watch are simple and easy to read. The retrograde part of the model's name refers to the date dial on the upper left, and is visually complemented by a power reserve indicator opposite it on the right side of the dial. The double arched tourbillon bridge helps give the watch face a balanced and symmetrical look. Traditional pomme hands complete the artistic yet functional look of this Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Tourbillon Retrograde timepiece. The strap is black crocodile with silver threading. Price is around $150,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Gallery: Maurice Lacroix Materpiece Tourbillon Retrograde Watch movement