perfume

Hermès may best be known for its leathergoods and fashion, but it is also a powerhouse in the fragrance world. Its newest scent, Voyage d'Hermès, is a nominee for a Luxist Awards Readers' Choice Award for Best Fragrance.

Voyage d'Hermès was created by its exclusive perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena, who joined Hermès in 2004. Ellena's hope was to develop a perfume that would take people to another place---a scent that would represent the most beautiful of all journeys. His desire was that people would smell the perfume and not say "It reminds me..." but "It's calling to me."

Ellena created a fragrance that is both familiar and surprising as well as masculine and feminine. Voyage d'Hermès is a unisex fragrance that is woody, fresh and musky.

Trends come and go in the world of perfumes, but the classic Chanel No. 5 is one of the few exceptions to the rule. For nearly a century, it has been synonymous with elegance and sophistication-making it an easy choice as a Luxist nominee in the best fragrance category.

There's a new fragrance concept in town from Ralph Lauren: Love, Ralph Lauren Solid Parfum Compact.

This attractive little 18k gold-plated compact fits in the palm of your hand and can be engraved both inside and out with the loving words of your choice. The closure button is adorned with a Swarovski crystal. The white you see inside the compact is a waxy, balm-like Love-scented solid.

For those not familiar with Ralph Lauren Love, it's a bold and romantic floral intended to encapsulate the intrigue of the rare Bulgarian rose. The wax carries the fragrance very well, and just a swipe of it lasts for hours.

This sensual gift is available exclusively from Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City. Give them a call and beg them to ship you one at (212) 753-4000, and check out the gallery to see the compact (and the luxe packaging) in person.

A loophole in a 37-year-old federal law allows makers of perfumes, colognes, and body sprays to conceal the chemicals that comprise the fragrances---and some of those unidentified odor creators may be harmful to public health, according to two advocacy groups.

Laboratory analysis was performed on 17 best-selling fragrance products, with tests revealing that the products together contained 38 chemicals not listed on product labels, reported AOL News today.

At the top of the list was American Eagle Seventy Seven with 24 secret chemicals. Chanel's Coco had 18 and Britney Spears Curious and Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio have 17, according to AOL News. View the list of offenders at AOL News.

"Every product we tested contains a mixture of secret chemical compounds not listed on the labels," Jane Houlihan, senior vice president for research for Environmental Working Group, told AOL News.

Worrisome for advocacy groups is that several of the undisclosed chemicals, including diethyl phthalate and musk ketone, contain hazardous properties or have a propensity to accumulate in human tissues.

Fragrances are not the only products that may contain undisclosed chemicals that can be hazardous. Many shampoos, lotions, bath products, cleaning sprays, and laundry detergents, contain ingredients that are not disclosed on packaging.

The Fragrance Materials Association of the United States (FMA) disagrees with the study's findings. "There is nothing 'secret' about the ingredients being used in fragrances," according to a statement issued by the FMA. The fragrance industry has published a listing of more than 3,000 fragrance ingredients that are currently being used in all forms of consumer products. This list can be found online.

"Scare mongering through the use of 'suggested' or 'potential' associations between fragrance materials and various toxicities is deplorable, particularly when present in a document that purports to be scientific,' said Cathy Cook, the association's spokesperson in a statement. The FMA further faulted the study because it was "self-published and not peer-reviewed."

For artisan perfumer Yosh Han, designing a fragrance specifically for one person is an intuitive process that becomes magical.

"Magic is the only way I can that of to explain ... There's an emotional shift that happens when find you something that really resonates," Han said recently in a telephone interview.

Through her San Francisco-based company bearing her name, Yosh, Han creates scents personalized for the people who come to see her. Han said custom fragrances are so specifically designed for an individual client that they will always smell best on the person they are created for.

"It really is a custom experience for that individual," Han said.

The artisan perfumer picked by someone seeking a custom fragrance will determine the process in which it is created. Some perfumers begin their process by asking clients a series of questions about their likes and dislikes as well as their background.

Han, who has been blending fragrances for 17 years and has had her company for 7, said her process of creating custom scent is different from the average perfumer.

With most of her clients in what she describes as a "transitional period" in their life, Han likes to use intuition to create a scent specific to where her clients are in that moment, rather than to "where they've been."

Tired of the same old scent? Interested in wearing a fragrance that has been personalized and created just for you?

Customized scents are a growing trend in the fragrance industry. While it is a cottage industry that has been around for a long time, more companies than perhaps ever before are now offering custom-ordered, personalized fragrances, including Scent Design, Esens, Neil Morris Fragrances and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

So how do you navigate the process of finding your own personalized fragrance? To find out these answers, Luxist consulted with Frédéric Malle, world renowned artisan perfumer and founder of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, a Paris-based fragrance company.

Malle advises clients first to be prepared to dig deep into their imagination. Indeed, an artisan perfumer will ask you many questions to find out about your personality and desires.

Editions de Parfums handles each of its clients with extreme care. They take time and careful precision to ask the right questions of each client so that they can match them with a fragrance that will suit all of their needs.

Edition de Parfums is able to match the perfect fragrance for each client by having them first complete an in-depth questionnaire personally created by Malle. The questionnaire gives potential consumers the ease to tap into their imagination as they answer each question. The first question it asks clients to answer is "Do you have any particular desire at the moment?" Other questions include, "Why do you wear perfume?" (To seduce, refresh, add a final touch, etc.); "Is the perfume for yourself, or another or for all others?"; and "Which perfumes have most marked you?". The questionnaire inquires about the style of clothing a client will wear (formal attire, evening dress, city wear, sport, country, etc.) with the perfume and about his or her favorite clothing brands. Edition de Parfums also considers the weather and climate of where the client lives. The questionnaire can be filled out in Edition de Parfums stores or conveniently on line.

"Filling out the questionnaire on line is very similar to the experience that you would have when you walk in the store," says Malle. "It's almost better. Sometimes people want to fantasize about themselves and introduce themselves in the best way. For example when we ask 'what designers you wear?' on our website there are more people who wear Prada then Zara. People either answer the questions honestly or they may give an idealized version of themselves. It's fine to introduce yourself on the website in a slightly improved way other than reality because it gives us the style that you like best, not whether you can afford the style you like best."

"If you tell me that you want to buy a fragrance because you do a lot of running and after going to the gym and you need to feel refreshed before going into the office I won't point you towards the same fragrance as someone who tells me 'listen.... I just changed boyfriends and we go out every night and I want to be as attractive as possible after 9:00 pm...' It's a different deal," Malle adds.

The art of perfume is a science and artisan perfumers are experienced chemists who understand the complexities of chemical compounds. For a perfumer to create one single fragrance it can take upwards to one year to develop and perfect. This is not an easy or simple process. Before seeking out a fragrance that is specific to your needs, first find a perfume publisher with accreditation and experience (such as Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle). An experienced perfumer will compile information to "match your personality" with a fragrance that will be selected especially for you.

Malle, for example, has been a "perfume publisher" for more than 23 years. He was born into the world of perfume and is the grandson of Serge Heftler, founder of Dior Perfumes. In 1986 he joined the prestigious perfume laboratories of Roure Bertrand Dupont. There, he formed the foundation to cultivate his craft and befriended some of the world's most renowned noses thereby setting the stage for his future role as a creator of Edition de Parfums. Malle approached the best perfumers in the business who agreed to put their names one what eventually became some of their finest creations. Edition de Parfums was conceived in 2000.

Malle explained the inner workings of his company. "We have 18 different fragrances, all of which are very different from one another," he says. "There are so many options that could fit different personalities. This company works on two levels. One level we have the best fragrance creators who come up with very specific works of art. The second is at our stores or on our website where we do "match-making". We try to match the right person to the right fragrances within the collection."

The likelihood of walking into an accredited and experienced perfumery to make an inquiry about creating a personalized fragrance is close to zero. The process of creating a fragrance is so intricate and time consuming that most genuine perfumers do not offer this service. Edition de Parfums is one of the few perfumeries that takes the time to consult with each and every client to provide them with a fragrance that is customized to fit every facet of their individuality.

"It takes a year to get a fragrance right," says Malle. "So I don't see how it is possible for a sales person in any store could make a good fragrance in ten minutes. It is just impossible. It is a very long and tedious process and anyone that says otherwise would be lying."

Edition de Parfums fragrances can be purchased online or at one of its boutiques around the world. Fragrances range in price (depending on the scent) from 80 EUR ($108) to 130 EUR ($175) for a 50 ml perfume spray and 115 EUR ($155) to 200 EUR ($269) for a 100 ml spray. Soaps, shower gels and body lotions are also available for purchase. Edition de Parfums boutiques are located in Paris and New York.

Want to smell like a superhero? In a unique comic-book-turned-movie tie-in, Diesel is giving the fragrance Only The Brave, an Iron Man makeover hoping for a boost from "Iron Man 2" which opens on May 7. The scent is the same but the fist-shaped bottle has been given a red and gold paint job to match the main character's fancy suit. The limited edition run will come in boxes decorated with scenes from early Iron Man Marvel Comics.

The scent is described as having top notes of lemon blossom, mandarin and coriander leaves, a heart of labdanum, black rose and lavender, and a dry down of amber, tolu wood and ebony wood. Might be an act of bravery just to wear it. The 2.5-ounce size will sell for $67.50 and will be available in mid April.

[via the LA Times All the Rage]

You can create your own unique signature scent by layering scents, according to Luxist Awards Expert Panelist Harry Slatkin, who is regarded as one of the country's leading fragrance experts.

"Don't be afraid to mix," says the fragrance expert who is the founder and creative force behind Slatkin & Co., the premier home fragrance brand celebrated for its scent experience and design (now a division of Bath & Body Works). "But of course your nose knows what will work and what won't."

For a truly unique scent, consider layering two or more fragrances. The trick is to blend notes that complement each other. Jasmine, vanilla, rose and citrus work well with most scents, while stronger notes such as patchouli and vetiver don't mix as well. A tea scent---or a perfume that has tea in it---might layer well with a rose, gardenia or a lavender scent. Slatkin recommends using a classic fragrance as a base, such as Chanel No. 5, and adding something on top. "Be daring and take it in a different direction," he says, "and you'll end up with something that's truly unique and memorable."

Remember, there may be scents in the shampoo, conditioner, cream and lotions that you use, which can change the scent of a perfume you may wear.

"If you like it, then it works," says Slatkin. "But if you walk in a room and you see people's eyes welling up with tears, then you know it isn't working for anyone else but you. If that is the case, then maybe it is something you shouldn't wear it again. Remember, it is not just about yourself, it is about everybody. You want to please people as much as yourself with scent."

Fragrances will last a long time--if they are properly stored, says Harry Slatkin, fragrance expert.

"Fragrances will last a long time if they are protected," says Slatkin, founder of Slatkin & Co., the premier home fragrance brand that is now a division of Bath & Body Works (see video below).

Keep your fragrances, including perfume, eau de parfum, cologne and eau de toilette away from heat. Most importantly, protect them from direct light, especially sunlight. "Light affects the chemical makeup of a fragrance and will change its color which affects the dynamics of how it combines," he adds.

Likewise, Slatkin says fragrances should not be stored in a refrigerator, as the humidity can also change the chemical makeup for the worse. It is best to keep the fragrances in their original containers, if possible, and with the tops tightly closed to avoid exposure to air. If given a choice, opt for bottles with spray dispensers as opposed to ones with open tops or roller balls. Spray dispensers better protect the fragrance from exposure to dirt, dust and air, and have a longer shelf life, too.

Don't be too quick to throw away bottles of perfume that you think may be too old to use, as long as they have been stored properly over the years. "I have smelled scents that are 15 years old, some in bottles that hadn't ever been open," says Slatkin, who is a member of the Luxist Awards' Panel of Experts. "They hold pretty well, and don't change character too much."

Perfume is more concentrated, more complex and less fragile than fragrances (such as eau de toilette, cologne and eau de parfum) that contain less oils and are more diluted. As a result, perfumes tend to last much longer.

I was a fan of the previous Henri Bendel signature line (the rare mimosa was my favorite) so I'm curious about the new line from the luxury department store Henri Bendel. Last year Henri Bendel decided to stop selling clothing and focus on accessories and beauty products. The store has launched a new line of six signature scents with very tempting scent descriptions. Rose & Oud is described as girly but glam with strawberry leaves, violet, sugary pink jasmine and a balance of oud. Gardenia & Vanilla is a a subtle and soft scent that gently seduces with peach blossoms, lily of the valley, fresh gardenia, and vanilla. A little peppier is the Persian Lime & Pepper which has notes of Rio red grapefruit, bold black pepper and sweet-scented basil. Sunny citrus enlivens Orange Blossom & Jasmine which has sugary Clementine, tangy tangerine, and bouquets of Sumatra lily. Patcchouli fleur and lotus blossoms give Incense & Musk its exotic profile.Grapefruit & Vetiver is tangy and tart but balanced by cooling cypress and mellowed musk. All the scents sell for $65 for a 50 ml Eau de Parfum.

[via Now Smell This]

First created back in 1875 by Henry Creed, Private Collection Tabarome has a rich history and has maintained a strong following over the years. Unfortunately production of the "warm, rich, clubby blend" is being permanently halted due to changes in the Earth's climate and only poor quality natural ingredients being available. The last 50 bottles of the fragrance, previously part of the company President's private collection, are being sold -- 25 online via the website and 25 in the New York boutique on 67th St and Madison Ave.

Private Collection Tabarome has top notes of bergamot and citrus, middle notes of pepper, and base notes of sandalwood, ambergris, and pepper and comes in a caramel Italian leather wrapped spray can embossed with the CREED logo and etched with the company's Paris address. $405

Via Acquire

What is the smell of humanity? Photographer Anne McClain's unique art project seeks to create a scent based on the experience of an act of humanity. She has been studying at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery, taking courses in natural and synthetic raw materials, chemistry, and creation. Her plan is to showcase the Humanity scent in a fountain of perfumed water in Brooklyn's McGolrick Park for six months starting this summer. The Humanity personal fragrance is described as being based on the Indian white lotus flower with vanilla inflections, notes of maté tea and sustainable sandalwood from Australia. The personal version of the scent is sold in chunky glass bottles inspired by the shape of the anatomical human heart. The bottles with white glass corks were designed by Lance McGregor and Alan Iwamura and handmade by Alan. Each bottle is numbered by perfumer Anne McClain. All of the proceeds from the sale of the Humanity fragrance will go towards building the Humanity perfume fountain in Brooklyn, NY. The 12 ml perfume oil in the glass sculpted bottle sells for $125.

[via Now Smell This]

Really the high end home fragrance market has been mainly limited to candles. We've covered some of the very fancy and nicely scented candles on the market from such people as Jo Malone, Slatkin & Co., and even Manolo Blahnik. Other than candles, the pickings in the home fragrance category are slim have been relegated to very decidedly non-luxe manufactures such S.C. Johnson and their products such as Glade. Frederic Malle the Frenchman and driving force behind Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle with flagship stores in Paris, and now New York has decided to turn his attention to those used in the home.

On his web-site he states his home fragrance philosophy:
"You don't want to perfume a house the way you perfume a person. You don't want to cover up life's odors but you want to complement them."

Not only did Frederic and his partners create 9 new fragrances for the home but also 3 inventive ways, well two innovative and one standard, to diffuse your home with scent.

• Fleur Mecanique: An 11cm red cube which met the teams requirements to be esthetically pleasing, silent (so that you could sleep right next to it), wireless (it recharges like a cell phone), and allows you to create a a natural scent of a fresh bouquet of flowers at will. It comes with 5 choices of fragrance refills.
• Rubber Incense: a unique concept to replace lavender sachets, which often get musty over time, in small places such as closets, and car interiors. The 118g rubber mat emits perfume for a substantial time with out needing a refill or electricity.
• Candles: 9 different handmade candle selections to choose from although it might have been interesting to dispense with this done to death format completely.

The Fleur Mecanique, available only in flagship stores, costs $380 dollars which includes one refill, and candles range in price from $85 - $125 dollars. If you don't live in Paris or New York you can purchase the rubber incense and candles on-line. The perfumes are available at one of the many stores such as Barney's that carry the fragrances (but not the home collection) worldwide.

Next month DKNY will debut its newest addition to the best-selling DKNY family of his and her fragrances. The limited edition Delicious Candy Apples Collection comprises three new fragrances that pair the sweetness of candy with a ripe, juicy apple. The fragrances will be available in Sephora, department stores, and perfumeries nationwide, as well as at DKNY.com, for $55 each.

Juicy Berry opens with black currant, blackberry, pear, and lychee notes, blends into a heart of rose petals and apple blossom, and finishes with sandalwood and sugary blond woods.

Ripe Raspberry opens with raspberry, apple, and lime notes, a heart of peonies and lily, and a drydown of cola accord.

Sweet Caramel opens with candy apple, pear, and marshmallow notes, which blend into a heart of jasmine, muguet and violet leaves and a drydown of caramel and vanilla.

Delicious is right! A representative for DKNY was kind enough to send me the trio so I can try them out. Luxist likes to share the love, so one reader will win one bottle of DKNY Delicious Candy Apples Sweet Caramel by following the contest rules below:

* Leave a confirmed comment telling us why you wear fragrance.
* The comment must be left and confirmed by January 29, 2010, at 5 p.m. Eastern Time.
* You may only enter once.
* One winner will be selected in a random drawing and notified by e-mail.
* One winner will receive a DKNY Delicious Candy Apples in Sweet Caramel, valued at $55.
* Open to legal residents of the 50 United States and the District of Columbia.

See complete contest rules here.

Want more DKNY? Get connected on Twitter at twitter.com/dkny. And take a look at this exclusive animated video, created just for the Candy Apples Collection launch.

The contest is closed. The winner will be notified on or before Monday, February 1. Thanks for participating!