north korea

With the latest in up-market jeans being readied for release, it's exciting to see what's in the pipeline. In this crowded space, look for the biggest noise to be made not by any fashion company you've pined over. Rather, the hottest denim on the market could be coming from the most unexpected place on earth ... by way of Scandinavia.

According to Financial Times, "As clean silhouettes and the much-feted new minimalism shape the autumn trends, it looks like denim will take an equally reductive route: out with slashed, stonewash, fussy 1980s styles and in with the basics." And you'll find this manufactured in North Korea.

FT continues:

Two years ago, a trio of young, twenty-something Swedes were invited by the government into North Korea to manufacture a national jeans line. Really. "Noko", as it was named, features two jeans styles for men and women: the Kara slim-fit and the Oke loose-fit ($215 plus shipping), both straight-cut and dark-wash, in keeping with the austere nightscapes of the designers' inspiration, Pyongyang.

The Noko styles are consistent with what is expected for autumn:

"For autumn, denim is very customer-friendly," says Lesley Torson of Trilogy, a London denim boutique. "It's dark, and washes are quite clean, giving it a more polished look." Meanwhile, the advent of styles such as the utilitarian cargo with convenient side pockets, the forgiving high-rise cut, and the faithful indigo boot-cut flare will offer something the premium jeans world hasn't seen for years: wearability.

Obviously, much about North Korea, and especially Kim Jong-il, is left to the realm of speculation. It's hard enough to know what's going on inside the secretive country, especially given the risks of relying too heavily on defector testimony, and the Dear Leader tends to insulate himself from the outside world. There are rumors, of course, that he has a taste for Cuban cigars and upscale spirits, but confirmation is notoriously difficult to attain.

Nonetheless, it seems the man loves to spend. It's said that 20 percent of North Korea's budget goes to support his lifestyle, including the Omega watches he wears.. In a fit of generosity, he set up top officials with newly imported 160 Mercedes-Benz sedans.

According to a defector (so take it with a grain of salt):

The defector says Kim Jong-il was impressed when Chinese diplomats knew to his tastes: "During his visit to China in 2005, Kim Jong-il was delighted to see bottles of Perrier that Chinese officials had prepared for him and asked his aides how the Chinese knew he liked Perrier."

Questions about Kim Jong-il's health have led to an increased focus on his likely successor, son Kim Jong-un. Not much is known about him ... except the fact that he likes to kick around in Nikes. One can only expect his tastes to mature when his old man dies and the kid ascends to the top spot.



[photo by yeowatzup via Flickr]

What takes a mere stamp collection into the realm of the unattainable? Forget concerns of auction strategy and desirable lot. Instead, make arrangements and hop a plane ... if you can. North Korea has issued new stamps – "one souvenir sheet and three sheetlets" – to commemorate Kim Jong Il's unofficial trip to China last month. Doubtless, this would be a unique addition to any stamp holdings.

The stamps have the North Korean and Chinese flags, according to the Korea Central News Agency, and are inscribed with:

"Commemoration of the unofficial visit of the great leader Comrade Kim Jong Il to the PRC," "May 5 - May 6, Juche 99 (2010)," "Commemoration of the unofficial visit of the great leader Comrade Kim Jong Il to the northeastern part of China," "May 3 - May 7, Juche 99 (2010)" and "Epoch-making event in the DPRK-China friendship history."

A date has been set for the Arirang Mass Games in Pyongyang, North Korea! The Korea International Travel Company has put the word out that Arirang will run from August 2, 2010 through October 10, 2010, Koryo Tours tells me.

With more than 100,000 participants in a 90-minute display of gymnastics, dance, acrobatics and other performing arts, Arirang has been described as "a synchronized socialist-realist spectacular." The spectacle is shrouded in heavy political messaging, of course, as this is the prevailing theme of North Korean art.

The show is held every evening at 7 PM, and you'll witness the "largest picture in the world" – a human mosaic. Each student holds a book, flipping pages as scenes change. There are up to 170 pages in one book! The work has already begun, and preparations are visible on the streets of Pyongyang, according to Koryo Tours. With tens of thousands of gymnasts stretching and practicing in the city's parks.

Looking for a once-in-a-lifetime vacation? This is it.

Usually, when rare art is discovered, the auction houses go crazy, and collectors salivate. Well, when the discoveries come in North Korea, there's little the art market can do to participate. Nine pieces depicting Kim Il Sung were discovered, according to the state news service, Korea Central News Agency (so, a grain of salt is necessary, here). Reportedly, the artwork dates "back to the period of the anti-Japanese armed struggle" and "highly laud[s] him as a central figure in the national liberation struggle and the invincible and iron-willed commander who led huge enemy troops by the nose."

Needless to say, I've never seen a piece by Picasso described this way ... and certainly not one by Damien Hirst.

The works are said to be of historical significance, apparently fitting into the historical tradition of works that "truthfully deal with the noble traits of the President who left lots of legends about his love for people behind."

Though indirect, the pieces are suggested to be the work of Kimg Jong Suk, Kim Il Sung's first wife and, according to the KCNA, "a great pioneer of the anti-Japanese revolutionary fine art and a forerunner in creating fine art works depicting the leader."

There have always been connections between art and politics. Whether you scan the crowd behind Plato and Aristotle (where you'll see Ptolemy wowing a small crowd) or step back from Pablo Picasso's "Guernica" in Madrid, you'll see messages subtle and overt. So, it shouldn't come as a surprise that portraiture is telegraphing who North Korea's next leader will be.

Homes and business establishments in North Korea tend to have two portraits on display: Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. A third is now ready for public display: Kim Jong-un. He is Kim Jong-il's third son and is rumored to be next in line for the top position in the country, according to "Rescue the North Korean People! Urgent Action Network," which usually goes by the much more compact acronym RENK. The group says that the portraits are ready to go, and "we assume that these will be distributed on Kim Il-sung's birthday, which falls on April 15."

Other signs that Jong-un is likely to take the lead next in North Korea also fall distinctly into the "lifestyle" category. His birthday, January 8, has been made a national holiday. This year, it was celebrated, at least quietly, with a collection of songs dedicated to him. Also, anyone who has the same name as the new leader has been instructed to change it.

Interestingly, the portrait will offer a first look at Jong-un for many, especially outside North Korea. So far, only two photos have been found: one at age 11 (furnished by his former Japanese cook) and another at age 16 (shot when he was in boarding school in Switzerland).

When I saw the Korean movie Joint Security Area a few years ago, I was floored. The plot itself wasn't a big deal – think Law & Order in the DMZ – but it's a South Korean film that offers a sympathetic, almost brotherly view of its miltaristic neighbrs to the north. A decade after the movie caused a stir on the peninsula, it's getting ready to hit the stage. Singing and dancing will be used to convey the complex messages of politics and culture in Panmunjom.

According to the Muk Company, which hasn't begun casting yet, "The musical will be different from both the original novel and the film. It will be a totally new production with a twist, which will touch upon sensitive issues, reflecting the 2010 relation between the two Koreas." Like the film version, the musical is expected to have an all-star cast.

Interestingly, Muk adds, "The production will also mark the 60th anniversary of the outbreak of the Korean War this year."

Nothing about Noko Jeans has been simple. You have to expect this, of course, when you're using labor in North Korea to manufacture a product for sale in the west. Of course, the Noko guys seemed to have an edge over the rest of the western world, since they're from Sweden, the only country in Europe that has diplomatic relations with the reclusive regime. In fact, Sweden represents the United States in Pyongyang, too.

Well, it didn't work all that smoothly. The fashion company was booted from Swedish retailer PUB. Then, it had to close its "museum" (i.e., boutique) in Stockholm. It looked like the company would only be able to live on in the virtual world, as an online retailer.

Thanks to the Danes, however, the situation has changed, even if only temporarily. Until Sunday (February 14, 2010), Noko Jeans will be at the Gallery International Fashion Fair in Copenhagen, Denmark, showcasing the Kara Slim Fit and Oke Loose Fit jeans. The company's also offering "some interesting sneak peeks of the future of Noko Jeans," it said in a statement.

The Noko "road show" was inspired by the response the company has received following its recent travails. In a statement, founders Jacob Åström, Jakob Ohlsson and Tor Rauden Källstigen said, "There's only so many e-mails and phone calls we can respond to, so we decided to take Noko Jeans on the road. The first stop, at Gallery during the fashion week in Copenhagen, felt very natural as it is very close and very awesome."

And, the hunt for space isn't over yet. The founders say, "Our hopes and ambitions with Gallery is to find new and great places where our story can be told, both in Scandinavia and the rest of the world."

The NoKo Jeans Museum is now closed.

Well, it's not really a museum – that's just what the company called its space at Vartoftagatan 47 in Stockholm ... but that's irrelevant. NoKo Jeans is now closed for good. For NoKo Jeans, just coming into existence was difficult, and the company never really got the traction it needed. It's relationship with Swedish department store PUB ended swiftly and badly, and now it's closed its other location.

The reason for all the difficulty is that NoKo Jeans are made exactly where you'd guess: North Korea. Sweden is one of the few western countries the only western country that maintains diplomatic relations with the isolated state, which made it easier for a Swedish country to get the venture off the ground.

If you still want a pair of the People's Jeans (as I do), you can still order them online. The museum may be gone, but you still can show your solidarity with the workers of the world.

This is Our Factory from Noko Jeans on Vimeo.

Jinghesheng Investment Company and the Democratic People's Republic of Korea are now partners in the art market. The investment firm and the most isolated dictatorship in the world are working together to show and sell 90 paintings at art galleries in Beijing. The paintings – 60 of them oil and 30 in the traditional Korean ink style – will be rotated through the gallery and sold.

The unifying thread in this show is that all works are by artists in North Korea ... and have been approved by the DPRK's Ministry of Culture, according to exhibit director Li Xuemei. Because information doesn't flow easily across the border, the exact origins of the pieces and details of the artists are unknown, but Li says to CNN, "Ours are surely authentic artworks from DPRK."

There has been no shortage of interest in the display. Li's gallery, which is showing the works of 20 North Korean artists associated with Pyongyang museums and art institutions, sees up to 100 visitors a day on the weekends and 60 a day during the week.

Brisbane, Australia is home to an unusual art exhibition -- the type that's a welcome break from what you typically see in major museums around the world. The Queensland Art Gallery is hosting the 6th Asia-Pacific Triennial through April 2010, and for the first time, art from North Korea has a large presence. Nick Bonner of Koryo Tours is co-curator of the exhibition, which reflects three years of commissioning works.

But, if you're interested in meeting the artists, you'll be disappointed.

Originally, five artists from Mansudae Art Studio were going to attend the show and discuss their work, but the Australian government declined their visas at the last minute, according to Koryo Tours. The artists in question were Pak Hyo Song, Kang Yong Sam, O Song Gyu, Rim Ho Chol, Ri Jong and Pak Yun Chol.

A spokesman for the Australian government explained, according to The Courier Mail, "The studio reportedly produces almost all of the official artworks in North Korea, including works that clearly constitute propaganda aimed at glorifying and supporting the North Korean regime." He continued, "To make an exception in this case would have represented a relaxation of Australia's visa ban and sent an inappropriate message to the North Korean regime."

HELLO IT'S Noko Jeans! from Noko Jeans on Vimeo.

Novelty isn't enough to keep the latest in Swedish jeans on store shelves. Noko, which debuted last week, is an upscale brand with an unusual twist -- it's made by people who could never partake in the style. The jeans are manufactured in North Korea, where access to jeans is rare at best.

Swedish department store PUB, decided to stop selling the jeans in order to avoid controversy. After all, who'd want to be associated with the land of Kim Jong Il? The department store's management claims it didn't know of the jeans' origin and killed the deal as soon as it learned of the North Korea connection. Sweden is effectively the western world's envoy to Pyongyang.

Rene Stephansen, PUB's director, told The Associated Press, "For us, this is not a question of Noko Jeans - this is a question about a political issue that PUB doesn't want to be associated with." He continued, "This is not the forum for the discussion."

Noko Jeans was developed by three Swedish entrepreneurs who wanted to engage North Korea, end the isolation ... and probably capitalize on the Communist mystique. The jeans are only available in black, and they aren't cheap. One pair will set you back $215 a pop!

The plan was that Noko Jeans would be sold at Aplace, a store within the PUB store, according to Stephansen. Aplace isn't on board with PUB's decision, calling it "a bit cowardly."

I just heard from the team at Koryo Tours and wanted to share with you the results of their recent fundraiser. I know this is a bit unorthodox, but it's not often Luxist (or anyone else) has the opportunity to cover North Korean humanitarian charity efforts. Originally, Koryo Tours sought EUR4,400 -- EUR2,400 for 300 Braille dictionaries and EUR2,000 to install playground equipment in an orphanage in Wonsan, North Korea.

Hannah Barraclough, from Koryo Tours, writes, "We are very pleased to announce that thanks to your help we managed to raise an amazing EUR9000 which means we have been able to complete both of these projects and have surplus funds to go towards even more worthwhile projects next year - more info about these coming soon." She continues, "We (and the Korean children) are really so grateful to all of you who donated money. If any of you have been meaning to donate but haven't yet then please go ahead as it will go towards our future charity projects."

Yes, this was a "small money" charity event by the standards of Luxist, but I did hear that our readers made a noticeable difference. So, the least I could do is share with you the impact.

Charitable giving is an obvious casualty of any economic downturn. Even when people want to give - or maintain their previous rates of donation - the realities of a shrinking portfolio force themselves into the decision-making process. Of course, a rather unique charity is struggling with this issue now. Koryo Tours, which takes westerners on rare excursions into North Korea, is looking to raise a mere $6,700 for two projects to benefit the people of North Korea. One involves buying braille dictionaries (which haven't been available in that part of the world), and the other is to buy playground equipment for an orphanage in Wonsan, North Korea.

If Koryo Tours is able to raise the funds necessary for the dictionaries, which is the first priority, it will be the first time that North Korean blind children will have this type of resource available -- the books currently do not exist.

It's been called a contest but seems more like an expo ... either way, it's typical of the ambiguity of communication coming from North Korea. "Crude liquor and sweet drink" – more than 100 types – were on display. These beverages were made with "grain, non-grain and by-products."

Yummy! I can't wait 'til the clock strikes noon and I can have a double-shot of by-products without regret.

The purpose of this event of indeterminate type is to use science to improve the traditional methods for creating these "traditional" drinks, "thus making the dining table of the people more bounteous" (no, you can't make this stuff up). Several years of famine and general consumer goods shortages make this a laudable goal, but one wonders if a trade show will be enough to solve the country's state-sponsored problems.

Though spirits would seem like luxuries in the "workers' paradise," peasants have been able to enjoy the "sour and refreshing crude liquor" when taking breaks from toiling in the field. Depending on the region, the crude liquor is called: thakju, thakbaegi, nongju or nongthak. In Yodok, it's called "nonexistent."

Interested in serving thakju at your next dinner party or cocktail reception? Just ferment boiled rice after "maturing" it with germ barley. Pour, threaten to drown the United States in a sea of fire and enjoy!