new york fashion week fall 2011

Vivienne Westwood is a busy Dame. Dame Vivienne, that is. The iconic London-based fashion designer is one of the rare few who shows her collections in various cities, including Milan, London and Paris. When Luxist had the opportunity to experience her work up-close on Sunday evening when she unveiled her Red Label Fall/Winter 2011 collection, it was on the third day of London Fashion Week. Earlier that day, her Austrian-born husband, Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood's Creative Director, noted, they did a fitting with Helena Bonham Carter for the Academy Awards. A busy day, indeed.

Vivienne West's show was larger than life (see video below). It was presented at the grand Royal Courts of Justice at London's Strand, a gothic cathedral-like setting that was befitting for a designer of Dame Vivienne's stature. The inspiration behind her "Red Label" collection show was Lewis Carroll's "Alice through the looking glass" which evoked a feeling of British society and change. Models wore tartan prints, dresses with mis-matched seams, fantastic oversized hats (designed by Prudence Millinery, some were crowns), over-the-top makeup (including gold-painted faces) and hair styles that seemed to defy gravity. A video of the entire show can be seen on Vivienne Westwood's website.

Bold face names at the show included Jo Wood (ex-wife of Rolling Stones Ronnie Wood), singer Paloma Faith, Boy George, former tenns pro Boris Becker, Duran Duran's Nick Rhodes, and contemporary artist Tracy Emin. All were wowed by the show which was as magnificient a production as the Red Label Collection itself. "I am a big fan of Vivienne's, so I enjoyed the show," Nick Rhodes told Luxist backstage after the show. "She always has a few surprises. She is remarkably good at cutting things. So it has always reminds me of the Japanese, but I think they took it from Vivienne. I thought some of things were really exquisitely beautiful. There was one skirt and blouse toward the end that was quite classical. It was a black skirt with a white blouse that I thought was just exquisite---beautiful."

Former pro tennis player Boris Becker was equally impressed with the collection. "I thought, as always, she was spectacular with the different designs and the makeup--one girl was golden," Becker told Luxist. "Her creativity never stops. The Royal Court of Justice is a unique location with a very long runway. The girls did have to walk a long time, but nobody faulted and everyone did a good job."

Gallery: Vivienne Westwood's Red Label Fall 2011 Collection

Bold new designer Kimberly Ovitz at only 26, proves that talent is not wasted on the youth. With her new collection, presented against a stunningly colorful background at Pace Gallery, this gifted lady is turning major heads in the fashion world.

If you haven't yet seen Tron, the 3-D film with a dubitable storyline but with epic impact on modern fashion and music, you're missing out. It was the first thing we thought upon entering the gallery. Finally these sharp cuts, powerful colors and easy-wearing fabrics seen on the silver screen are coming to life. Ovitz admits that her collection was not influenced by the film, but they do share a common interest in looking ahead to the future.

While Tron's futurism lays within the deep recesses of a video game, Ovitz draws her futurism from the works of Oscar Niemayer, a man credited with bringing modernism to South America. Niemayer is an architect who was never interested in lines or angles, but rather in curves found in the landscape of his own country or of the body of a woman, and representing those curves in his buildings. In her collection, "The setting is Brasilia," Ovitz tells Luxist. "A friend of mine passed away in Brazil, so I was very preoccupied with the country."

The Badgley Mischka Fall 2011 Collection fashion show during NY Fashion Week was inspired by old Hollywood glamour, according to its designers, Mark Badgley and James Mischka.

Beautiful gowns were presented with a dramatic backdrop. On a large screen behind the runway, was a fog-filled urban scene that set the mood, as models dressed in gowns made of crepe de chine, chiffon, taffeta and tulle made their way down the runway (see video below).

There were magnificient gowns, including one made of crepe de chine in magenta (seen above) that one might expect to see on the Academy Awards' red carpet. A gold/argent lame and chiffon gown was striking as was a black crushed velvet gown (both from the Couture Collection). There were several pieces presented from the lower price point Mark+James line, including a black matte jersey and tulle dress, black stretch tuxedo twill skirt and pants, and a silver/black gauze lame trench coat, among others.

Gallery: Badgley Mischka Fall 2011 Collection at NY Fashion Week

Betsey Johnson's Fall 2011 Collection, which was presented at this evening at Lincoln Center during NY Fashion Week Fall 2011 was a spectacular production---and definitely is the highlight of the entire week. The "He Loves Me...He Loves Me Not" show was more fun to watch than most of the theatrical productions currently headlining on Broadway--and was a wonderful way to spend Valentine's Day eve.

The collection was colorful and whimsical, as one would expect from the eclectic and charismatic designer. The show started with models (each with a blunt, dark wig) wearing the "Black Tag" Collection, described by the program as sophisticated, sexy and sleek. Each look had a name, such as "Wicked Game" and "Heartbreaker". The collection featured a fantastic black and white leopard print suit and wonderful dresses, including one that was both dramatic and sculpted (accessorized with a black and white leopard shawl and matching hand-warmer). Next up was the "Pink Patch" Collection, which is described in the program as "Affordable (under $100), Accessible and True-Blue Betsey". The fantastic footwear worn by all of the models throughout the show, called the "Lizzzy-L" collection (seen on the model in the above photo), was provided by Steve Madden and is available exclusively at SteveMadden.com and Steve Madden's mobile site for a limited time.

Gallery: Betsey Johnson Fall 2011 Collection

After her models walked the runway, employees of Betsey Johnson's fashion empire strutted the runway, too, wearing what looked to be pieces from previous collections while wearing blond Betsey Johnson-look-alike wigs. The "real models" included store managers, regional managers, design assistants, stylists, the knitwear designer, and even the VP of Retail Operations. The "real models" were of all shapes and sizes. One was pregnant (she looked adorable, by the way) while the last to walk (more like dance down) the runway was the lone male in the group (a store manager, named Seth Lefkof, according to the program) who revealed his identity after tossing his wig into the audience.

Carmen Marc Valvo's Fall/Winter 2011 Collection which was presented last night was glamorous and elegant. Valvo, the designer-to-the-stars (many of whom were presented at the show) featured a collection made with such rich fabrics as chantilly lace, chiffon, organza and tulle.

The show was presented at the Nasdaq Marketplace, with all attendees seated along long winding corridors, with the models passing by only a few feet away. Katie Couric, Star Jones, and singer Kat DeLuna all in attendance.

Highlights of the beautiful collection included exquisite cocktail dresses and formal evening wear including a latte metallic lace gown, a persimmon iridescent silk chiffon and lace gown, and a black strapless lace gown with multi-tiered chiffon applique. (See video of the show below).

"The collection was inspired by ballerinas this season," Valvo told Luxist backstage after the show (see video for full interview). "I gravitated towards them for their sense of beauty, poise, their grace, their elegance and their sensuality and femininity. So I wanted the collection to evoke that sense of beauty and movement. It is a collection full of romance and poetry. Lots of laces were employed, silk chiffons and metallic tulles."

Gallery: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2011 Collection

Derek Lam's Fall 2011 Collection which was presented at NY Fashion Week this morning was nothing short of glamorous.

"In this collection, I have used new combinations to make clothes that look fresh, fluid, weightless, yet also appropriate for the Fall/Winter season," says Lam. "Some of the new combinations are logical: sleeves and backs of heavier weight clothing are made of slippery cloths. The usual layering of clothes are lightened, the arm slips easily under coats; the bulk is eliminated where you don't want it."

There were tunics in flannel, doubleface jersey and military gabardine that were combined with liquid twills and laundered poplins on bottom. Dresses were sewn with jersey bodices attached to wool felt skirts and vice versa so they look sleek and also tailored. Evening dresses had leather bodices, with laundered satin or poplin full skirts, for a kind of raw and casual glamour.

"I think that Derek Lam is one of the great American designers who has given American Fashion Week something very unique and sophisticated," Andre Leon Talley, Contributing Editor to Vogue, told Luxist backstage after the show. "The clothes are modern and they give modernity a new definition. They are clothes for women who work, who are grown up and who are refined. The sense of luxury of fabric is extraordinary. The glace leva jean skirt is one of my favorites. A varsity stripe on a trouser with a red leather car coat is wonderful and is the way women want to dress. I think he is exceptional. I am always more and more impressed each season with his work and I think this is one of his most outstanding moments in his career."

A highlight of Fashion Week is the Fall/Winter 2011 Collection created by Fashion Designer Jason Wu before a packed house during New York's Fashion Week this afternoon. Anna Wintour, the British-born Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, was seated in the front row along with Hamish Bowles, the European Editor at Large for Vogue (see photo gallery below). Jason Wu was the designer of the white ballgown worn by Michelle Obama to the inauguration festivities.

"I aim to make clothes that look great on women and make them feel beautiful," Wu told Luxist. "They are timeless. These are wardrobe pieces. These are pieces that can be kept for a lifetime. And that is always the way I have done it. I have never been the trendy person. I really want to make clothes that are truly desirable for women."

For his Fall/Winter 2011 Collection, Wu told Luxist he was inspired by the beautiful photos taken by Robert Polidori in his book, "Parcours Museologique Revister", which documented the detailed restoration process of Versailles over a period of 25 years. The theme of contrast runs through the photos and the collection.

Wu explained to Luxist (see video below) that the juxtaposition between the rough undersurface revealed during renovation and the opulence of the decor inspired a mixture of luxuriously embellished fabrics with his signature American sportswear elements. The collection included sharp tailored pants, ascot shirts and charcoal flannel coats. Accents included colorful embroidered Swarovski elements, burned out features and lace detailing. The color palette was restrained with lots of black, white and nude throughput the collection highlighted by shots of bold colors including cerise pink, chartreuse, ultra violet and antique gold.

"This season the color choices was really about working with a restrained color palette," Wu told Luxist. "It is an austere mood that is brightened up by these embroideries and the embellishments and details that were so delightful to me and such a joy to work on."

Gallery: Jason Wu's Fall/Winter 2011 Collection at New York's Fashion Week

Raul Melgoza, the Creative Director at Luca Luca whose Fall 2011 Collection will debut at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York next week, is not your run-of-the-mill fashion designer. Not by a long shot.

Born and raised in Los Angeles, Melgoza has a resume that would likely impress the suits on Wall Street just as much as the creative types in the fashion industry.

After earning a degree in finance from University of Southern California, Melgoza worked for American Express's financial advisory division before taking a position with the U.S. Treasury. But he has known since he was a young boy that he would one day end up in fashion.

"When I was seven or so, I remember watching an episode of the Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous with Robin Leach that featured Oscar de la Renta," Melgoza told Luxist. "Being of Latin descent, I immediately felt connected to this man and to this world that I did not know existed."

Later on, while attending business school, Melgoza took a marketing class and became aware that he could converge his interest in art and design and his knowledge of commerce. "That led me to research design schools," he recalls. "I knew that business was just a foundation and that I didn't want to do it for the rest of my life."

Gallery: Luca Luca's Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

Last night, W Hotels celebrated what's new and next in fashion with an event at the W Times Square that celebrated the W Hotels Fall 2011 Fashion Next designers Tess Giberson, Michael Angel, Amanda Ross (W Hotels Global Fashion Director), Mandy Coon, Frank Tell, and Mara Hoffman (see photo above).

Alexandra Richards (seen below), daughter of Patti Hansen and Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones, served as the guest DJ. The statuesque blond, who is an actress and model in addition to being a professional DJ, was a great fit for the event which celebrated the rising stars of the fashion world.

Fashion Next is a program of W Hotels that fosters and supports emerging designers during fashion week and beyond. In addition to partnering with W Hotels during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Fashion Next designers will travel to W Hotels globally for exclusive trunk shoes, design limited-edition pieces for W's next Global Glam fashion and accessories collection, and collaborate with W on other fashion projects through the season.

Luxist had the opportunity to speak with a few of the Fashion Next designers about their Fall 2011 collections, including Mandy Coon, Michael Angel and Tess Giberson. Each described their inspiration, the materials and color schemes they used for their collections and much more.