movement

Blancpain Expands Into A Serious Watch Movement Manufacturer

This is a really, really interesting branding exercise - and I have no idea if it is a good idea. Frederic Piguet is (I mean, was) Swatch Group's higher-end movement maker. Sort of like a fancier version of ETA. Most of the Swatch Group's higher end brands used Frederic Piguet movements (higher-end brands include Breguet, Jaquet Droz, Blancpain, etc...). That isn't to say that Frederic Piguet made all the movements for these brands, but did many of them. Problem was that all but the most hardcore watch aficionados knew what Frederic Piguet even was. So telling people that their new luxury watch had one of these movements in it required them to first explain what Frederic Piguet was in the first place. Also, I am sure there was some corporate redundancy, etc.. That Swatch was looking to clean up.

So Swatch Group made the big decision to have Blancpain take over Frederic Piguet to make all of the movements. From a facility and logistical standpoint I don't know what will actually change. I understand that Blancpain will "take over the existing manufacturing structures." From a branding standpoint, Blancpain will now be thrust forward as a watch maker as well as an even more serious watch movement maker. Since the economy turned sour, watch brand groups have been carefully looking at each of their brands to figure out what purpose each one has. This is a lot like what GM did when it axed a bunch of its redundant, pointless brands (I am looking straight at you Oldsmobile and Pontiac) in the current market.

Swatch Group announced the move as a "consolidation." This would explain the desire to remove redundancy, but at the same time you usually don't see a movement maker be absorbed by a watch brand. So the decision to have Blancpain look like the big daddy movement maker was highly strategic (most likely). Swatch is trying to give each of its brands a lot of importance. While Blancpain has done a good job of making nice watches, over the last few years the brand has lost a bit of its zest. This moves is an attempt at making them exciting once again. Plus, Blancpain can now assert themselves as a pretty much totally vertically integrated movement manufacturer - something that the Swatch Group doesn't really have in comparison to competitor the Richemont Group.

The new entity will be known as the "Manufacture Blancpain," and (as I understand it) will be making movements for the Blancpain brand, as well as other high-end Swatch Group brands. I am interested to see how the next few years for this new entity will unfold, and the effect it will have on the public's image of the Blancpain watch brand.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: blancpain, frederic piguet, manufacture, movement, swatch group

Quinting "Mysterious" Watches Hands-On

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

One of the most interesting watch movements around is made by Swiss Quinting. It is a quartz movement that is barely visible. Look at the watch and you just won't get how it works. The dials are totally transparent and you can see right through them as the hands of the watch seem to float in space. Quinting makes the movements and the watches. The movements are quartz based and actually fitted inside the watch around the dial in the case. It uses a series of motors that move sapphire crystals that the hands are attached to. Complex models like the Chronograph use many, totally parallel sapphire discs to achieve the functionality. The design is flawless and the engineering is very clever.

I got to handle the watches at the Geneva Time Exhibition in January. They had their diverse line up of models in various case sizes and tones. Some of them are richly decorated in diamonds and are in gold. The watches typically aren't too little, but rather come in healthy sizes (for men and women). You really get an appreciation for how difficult it was to make the watches when you wear them. Seeing your wrist through the watch without any gears or pieces really goes to the heart of the "Mysterious" part of the name. Their new watch for 2010 uses an interesting set of two discs that have "spokes" on them. These turn in opposite directions and help regulate each other in terms of the watch accuracy. What it means for you is a cool looking dial that is constantly moving. Quinting also makes movements for other brands that want to showcase their technology. For example they produced a watch for Dior that I discussed here. Prices for these watch is pretty expensive for a quartz movement, but they have the craftsmanship of a nicer mechanical watch. I'd say the prices for non jewelery versions are typically in the $5,000 - $10,000 range.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Gallery: Quinting watches

Tags: high-end quartz, High-endQuartz, movement, quinting, sapphire, Swiss, transparent, watch

Hublot Watches Rescues BNB Concept, Sort Of

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

I recently reported that the Swiss highly respect complex watch movement maker BNB Concept declared bankruptcy. All in the watch industry agreed it was sad and uncomfortable news. Not long after I am not too surprised to hear that someone has come to the watch movement maker's rescue - one of their biggest clients no less. LVMH owned Hublot has announced that it will buy BNB Concept. What this means is not 100% clear to me. Hublot has announced recently that it wishes to become a movement maker itself, adding to in-house made movements to its higher-end offerings. Reports indicate that Hublot is purchasing BNB Concept for some of its technology and staff, as well is its machinery. It is unclear whether BNB Concept's manufacture will continue in operation, or this will all be transferred to Hublot's new space.

What is clear is that Hublot is not going to be able and save all of BNB Concept. So there will still be technicians and watch makers looking for work, as well as a host of other BNB Concept clients that will have to look elsewhere to get complex watch movements. There are only a handful of competitors.

Via Business Montres (in French).

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: bnb concept, BnbConcept, hublot, movement, watch

Movement Shock: BNB Concept To Declare Bankruptcy

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Shocking news in the world of watch movements as BNB Concept looks like it is going to close its doors. The highly respected complex watch movement maker looked like a star of the independent high-end watch industry. BNB Concept was responsible for the design and manufacture of a number of ultra complex (and expensive) watch movements for many watch brands. For example, its seems as though most of the tourbillon movements that aren't in-house made by a brand are sourced from BNB Concept. They even began their own exclusive watch brand with the Confrerie Horlogere. Founder Mathias Buttet really changed the watch industry over the last few years, and BNB Concept is, and has, been in very high demand. Now that is all over. So what happened?

Unpaid bills. Literally millions of them. BNB Concept has no cash. Problems arise not only in account payables, but account recieveables. While BNB Concept was doing great on paper. No one was paying them. With dozens on customers who haven't paid, BNB Concept has an utterly insufficient cash flow. It looks as it is another victim of the hurting luxury watch world. Because BNB Concept's customers could not pay it, BNB Concept itself had not enough cash to stay in business. Reports all suggest an extremely expensive overhead. With lots of highly trained labor, high-tech facilities, and not to mention lots of expensive machinery, BNB Concept was underwater before it knew what hit it.

The official announcement of their bankruptcy is expected to come soon. This will likely mean that the company will be closing, as no one wants to buy them and end up trying to collect from customers or paying all the bills. Though to be honest it isn't 100% clear what they will do. Hopefully the "talent" will be transferred elsewhere. While the news is sad for lovers of high-end complex independent watch brands, it is sadder for the watch industry as a whole. Consider it a major step back in giving independents a chance to assert their innovative designs without having to spend years themselves designing and making movements.

Via Business Montres.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: bankruptcy, bnb concept, BnbConcept, close, mathias buttet, MathiasButtet, movement, swiss, watch

Bovet Watches Develop In-House Made Movement

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Bovet has been steadily making itself standout as a unique luxury watch maker since earlier this decade when it was purchased by Pascal Raffy in 2000. With a steady stream of about 2000 watches made a year, the exclusive brand is still a nice luxury watch maker. The watches are quite impressive actually, and the company plans to up to production to about 4000 watches a year soon.

The next step for the luxury watch brand is to make its own in-house made movement. This is quite an ambitious feat for a brand with this modest level of production, but they can certainly do it. Although development on the new movement has begun, it will not be released until 2013 - a testament to how long it can take for a movement to by developed, tested, and perfected before production. The movements will likely be very high-end, mostly being hand made and decorated. The included images are not necessarily of the new movement, but display examples of the craft work that Bovet places in its watches. I have a feeling that the upcoming movement will be very impressive and more than just a mere basic movement with "Bovet DNA."

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Gallery: Bovet Watches Develop In-House Made Movement

Tags: bovet, caliber, develop, movement, watch

Tag Heuer New Caliber 1887 Watch Movement SNAFU

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

This was certainly a sticky situation for Tag Heuer, the details are a bit murky, but the situation is clear. Tag Heuer recently announced their "new, in-house made and designed" Caliber 1887 automatic chronograph movement. All seems well with the movement itself, but the problem is that Tag Heuer didn't design it. Nope, they sort of cosmetically altered an over 10 year old Japanese Seiko movement design (Seiko 6S37). So after 150 years, Tag Heuer's anniversary surprise was on loan from Japan. I do understand that this was arranged with Seiko, and that Tag Heuer will actually be building the movements in limited quantities themselves. At least Seiko isn't doing everything.

Tag Heuer got caught red handed by the watch lover community who noticed the similarities between the two movements. This qualifies us as true nerds, seeing details such as this. Tag Heuer would have gotten away with it to, if it wasn't for us meddling bloggers! That's right, thank the internet watch lover community, who is responsible for this situation being discovered. A powerful indication to the watch industry of what the internet can do for them, or against them. In good taste, as a response to the situation, Tag Heuer CEO Jean-Christophe Babin himself went online to respond to the "accusations." He honorably admitted a "mistake" by Tag Heuer and that the movement was in fact "adopted" from Seiko.

The clear winner in this whole situation is first and foremost the power of the Internet watch lover community, second Seiko, and third Tag Heuer for responding to a sticky situation quickly and admirably. Seiko movements are pretty outstanding, and it is funny that here even the Europeans are rather tacitly suggesting that. Plus, Tag Heuer is a rather mainstream watch brand. Meaning that most people who buy their watches will never even know about this situation. Tag Heuer admitted wrong doing, hopefully a few heads will be caved in there in the marketing department, and they will go on their lives being good watch designers, not movement designers. Lastly, there are several watch forums and blogs that knew about this situation but refused to mention it even though they discussed the new Tag Heuer Caliber 1887movement. They lose the most in this situation for the destruction of valuable street cred among Internet watch lovers who simply expect more.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: 1887, caliber, in-house, movement, Seiko, Tag Heuer, TagHeuer, watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 Smallest Mechanical Watch Movement In The World Turns 80

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

I was a bit surprised to learn that the smallest mechanical watch movement in the world wasn't something new. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 mechanical watch movement watch originally designed and put into watches in 1929. It's purpose was to be a technical achievement as well as a movement small enough to be placed in the fashionably tiny women's jewelry watches of the time. Years later the Calibre 101 movement is still around only having undergone minor changes over the past 80 years. The movement now contains more parts in the same small area - 98 to be exactly, and has more typically been fitted with gray gold bridges and decorated surfaces.

The movement is quite little. 14mm long by 4.8mm wide, and only 3.4mm thick. Of course the movement is manually wound. The Calibre 101 movement is very rare. Only about two dozen of the movements are made by Jaeger-LeCoultre each year. Not just anyone can put the tiny miracles together as it requires extreme care and skill. When I first learned about the movement I wondered by no one has made a smaller movement since? Surely it is something we can do even if it is not practical. Well, that is the point I think. Making a mechanical movement smaller than the Calibre 101 makes no practical sense - all. If you need to go smaller just go with quartz. No one is even going to wear a watch so smaller it requires it. I have been watch faces on rings, and they obviously use a quartz movement as it is so much more practical. Imagine winding a ring watch. Thus, unless some enterprising watch maker feels it is their life mission to innovate into the unwise, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 is going to be the smallest mechanical watch movement around for perhaps another 80 years.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: calibre 101, Calibre101, jaeger-lecoultre, mechanical, movement, smallest, tiny, watch

A. Dunhill Facet Watch With Jaeger-LeCoultre Movement

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Alfred Dunhill Facet Watch With Jaeger-LeCoultre Movement

Interesting that Alfred (A.) Dunhill keeps working with Jaeger-LeCoultre on making timepieces. The first cooperation came with the recent Jaeger-LeCoultre Art Deco Atmos Regulator clock for A. Dunhill, a $70,000 mega-mantle clock using the legendary atmos clock made by Jaeger Le-Coultre. Now comes a more subdued partnership with A. Dunhill designed watches that features Jaeger-LeCoultre movements. This particular timpiece is the newly styled A. Dunhill Facet watch that uses the typical angle cut case and sapphire crystal. It makes for an interesting look, and sapphire crystals such as this are clearly more expensive to produce.

The dial features vertical texturing for decoration and classic Arabic numerals that look like they are done in Times New Roman. The subsidiary seconds dial is inset a bit, helping to add depth to the area. The case comes in either 18k rose or white gold and is 36mm wide by 50mm tall. Inside the watch is a manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 822 movement which is rectangular-shaped as you might have guessed. You might be asking why it is that Jaeger-LeCoultre is helping Dunhill, what is essentially a competing brand by providing them with movements. Plus, there is no mention at all of Jaeger-LeCoultre on the dial of the watch. Why is that? Well The latter question I cannot explain, but because both Dunhill and Jaeger-LeCoultre are part of the same parent company - the Richemont Group, the partnership makes sense. This is not the first time the Jaeger-LeCoultre with its movement making skills has been asked to lend a hand. Some of the brand new Ralph Lauren watch brand timepieces also feature Jaeger-LeCoultre movements inside. The new A. Dunhill Facet watches will be available soon for between 3,600 and 6,900 euros.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: 2009, alfred, dunhill, facet, jaeger lecoultre, JaegerLecoultre, movement, timepiece, watch

Zenith El Primero New Vintage 1969 Chronograph Watch Collection

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

This is my favorite new Zenith watch for 2009 and is the El Primero New Vintage 1969 collection. These watches are called "new vintage" because they are not only a "reissue" of a watch movement from another era (the first El Primero), but share the iconic styling of watches from that time period. The El Primero is a high beat movement operating at 36,0000 bph (beats per hour). This gives it the ability to have a chronograph that measures 1/10 of a second (most mechanical chronographs measure maybe 1/5 of a second). The movement is the automatic Zenith El Primero 469, with a column wheel chronograph and date, with a 50 hour power reserve.

Three versions of the lovely watch will be offered, each being really nice and worth the investment. Which is a blessing and a curse given that the collection will be offered as a limited edition and only in 2009. There is the black titanium model, stainless steel model, and 18k gold model. Each in the 40mm wide classic looking case. The black titanium model features a curious skeletonized dial with markers applied on a sapphire crystal as the dial, while the steel and gold have very cool looking overlapping subsidiary chronograph dials and an easy to read face. The whole collection with its alligator or crocodile straps and retro styled case is quite hip looking - again, one of the best Zenith watch collections this year.

Ariel Adams publishes the popular watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Gallery: Zenith New Vintage 1969 watches

Tags: 1969, chronograph, el primero, ElPrimero, movement, new vintage, NewVintage, timepiece, watch, zenith

Working The Good Life At BNB Concept Watch Movement Maker

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

BNB Concept is of the most important companies in the luxury watch making world today. BNB Concept is starting to get in the watch making game with their Confrerie Horlogere (click here for more information on the ImmenSEAty movement that is one of the pictured items in the gallery below), but their forte is in the design and manufacture of ultra-high end complex watch movements. Some of their clients prefer to be kept confidential (watch companies are sensitive), but others are proud of their relationship with BNB Concept. These companies include, but are not limited to Bell & Ross, Concord, and Romain Jerome. In total they have 28 clients at this time.

The Confrerie Horlogere is BNB Concept's newest venture is will be in the business of creating highly complex, highly original, and highly limited watches. The timepiece are accompanied with something never before seen with a watch - a lifetime warranty. Yes this makes sense on watches costing small (or large) fortunes, but this does not diminish their capacity to break on occasion. I would feel quite reassured if the exclusive Confrerie Horlogere watch I purchased came with such a warranty, mainly because I know they are of the only people in the world able to fix their watches.

With all this watch industry notoriety and demand, BNB Concept is an incredibly good place to work. Located in Duillier just north of Geneva in Switzerland, the roughly 150 employee company has workers with an average age of just 27 - very young for the watch industry. The clean, open, and creative environment encourages personal projects and has an incredible allure - flexible hours. BNB Concept is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Employees can work anytime they like (save for the cook). There are output expectations, and deadlines, but for the most part employees can come and go as they wish, an incredible benefit to working there, realized in just a handful of companies. Where do I sign up?

Ariel Adams publishes the popular watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Gallery: BNB Concept Images 1

Tags: bnb concept, BnbConcept, confrerie horlogere, ConfrerieHorlogere, maker, movement, watch

Mechanical Watch Movement Cufflinks

by Rigel Celeste (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Jewelry

This set of Mechanical Watch Movement Cufflinks set in 18K gold is designed for timepiece collectors or creators, or just for lovers of history as they are created from gears, levers, and jewels taken from watches of the early to mid twentieth century. A mix of antique and modern appeal, each authentic vintage cuff link will have slight variations in shape and size. Gift boxed complete with authenticity certificate, set shown here in gold available for $1404. Also available in sterling silver, and if you like this look also check out the mechanical watch movement pendant and chain.

Via BornRich

Source

Tags: antique, cuff, cufflink, cufflinks, gold, link, links, mechanical, movement, vintage, watch

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