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160 Years of Maritime Photography

Filed under: Books


Pierre Borhan, former director of photography for the French Ministry of Culture, presents a compelling anthology of maritime photography since 1843 in his beautiful new book, The Sea. The slipcased volume features 300 color and black and white images ranging from historical photos, documentary photos, and art photos to archival works and pictures taken in the present day. Images include striking seascapes and perspectives, including lonely lighthouses, bustling port towns, early explorations of Antarctica and the Arctic Circle, and abstract compositions of waves,
water, and light by some of the world's best-known photographers. It makes a perfect gift for lovers of all things related to water and the ocean.

Seiko: The Luxury Watch Brand You Didn't Know Existed

Filed under: Timepieces



Have you, or anyone you know, ever complained about how Japan gets cool stuff that the rest of the world is left longing for? Electronics, games, cars, and also luxury watches. Sure you can get Seiko watches all over the world. In fact, Seiko is one of the most popular watch brands on the planet. Not all Seiko watches are made alike though. One the one hand you have most 'rank and file' Seiko watches that are known to be inexpensive and reliable watches. The "Toyota of watches" as many people call them.

On the other hand, there the other side to Seiko, the luxury watch maker. Deep inside Japan are several Seiko watch manufacturers making some of the best and most reliable luxury watches ever created. These are the "Lexus of watches." Until recently such highly desirable watches have been mostly for the Japanese domestic market only. Bearing such names like Grand Seiko and Credor, most Westerners didn't even know of their existence. There also exists a large population of American and European (among other places) watch lovers who are aware of the Seiko treasures in Japan, and are almost pained by the fact that they cannot get them locally. The good news is that is about to start changing.

Enter the Seiko Ananta line of watches. Finally a global high-end product from Seiko that contain the high-end 100% manufacture-made movements and watches. Why the important of "manufacture-made?" Today everyone speaks about "manufacture movements." These are movements in watches made all in-house by the manufacturer with out having third part companies make them. Such in-house movements are considered to be at the top of the heap for luxury watch desirability. The majority of watch brands don't make their own movements. Seiko does however. In fact, Seiko is of the few totally vertically integrated watch makers in the world.


Versace No Longer Big In Japan?

Filed under: Apparel

versaceIs Japan losing its luxury appeal? Last year LVMH scrapped plans for a new Vuitton flagship store in Tokyo's Ginza shopping district and now Versace is pulling out completely. Bloomberg reports that Gianni Versace SpA will close its Japanese stores as part of an overall review of the company business strategy. A statement from the company said in part that the Versace boutiques in Japan " no longer represented the brand image and it was felt to be more advantageous for the company to close them and start with a clean slate." The fashion company has three stores in Japan, one in Osaka, one in Tokyo and one in Chiba according to the Versace website.Overall Japan's market for imported luxury goods has been shrinking in recent years.

Earlier this year I asked the team at Luxist Japan about the new Japanese attitude toward luxury. They reported that many of the more mass-marketed luxury brands are no longer faring as well with Japanese consumers. Like American consumers the Japanese are becoming adept at high-low dressing and are more interested in creating their own mix and match outfits without relying on copying what they see in store windows. Japan's luxury goods decrease may not represent as much of an overall disinterest in luxury goods as much as it does a less ambitious attitude toward overt logo chasing.

[Thanks, Lori!]

Hermes Vows No Change In Strategy

Filed under: Handbags

victoria beckhamOne of the reasons that Hermes seems to thrive where other luxury brands falter is that the brand has always eschewed 'masstige' -- luxury aimed at the masses. While other brands have expanded and then discounted, Hermes has held on to a fine snobbery that has served it well even in the recession. That strategy isn't set to change. The Financial Times recently talked with Patrick Thomas the CEO of the luxury brand who has said the brand has held off on expanding as fast as they could because they don't want to squander the legacy of the company's history. Thomas refers to it as a "capital sin" to use the image of the company to try and make short term money.

The company has made some accommodations to deal with the growing demand for their products. Over the last 20 years the brand has expanded its cadre of artisans from around 300 to over 2,000 but they still can't keep up with the demand for the popular Birkin bags beloved of celebrities and the wealthy including Victoria Beckham, shown at right. Thomas also cleared up the rumor that Hermes might be investing in jewelry brand Asprey after picking up their London store. Thomas insists that the company was only after the prime real estate, not the company within.

It's Not All Caviar And Champagne For Luxury CEO

Filed under: Wheels

He's the heir to a luxury fortune and he has married one of the world's most beautiful women, Salma Hayek, it's easy to dismiss François-Henri Pinault as just another blessed rich guy. But Peter Gumbel's profile of Pinault in Fortune magazine shows that François-Henri Pinault is a lot more than just a lucky guy, he's a major player in the luxury arena, helming PPR, the luxury conglomerate that includes Gucci, Bottega Veneta and other brands.

And it isn't all fabulous parties and jetting about. Earlier this year after a meeting in Paris with union representatives from various PPR businesses about store closures, layoffs and other measures he found himself in a taxi that was surrounded by angry employees who kept him trapped for an hour as they yelled. Police had to come rescue him (a video is after the jump).

There's no denying that the luxury market has taken a huge hit in the past year and any potential recovery has been slow so far. Pinault has to prove to the world that he can be a successful CEO and a worthy heir to the empire founded by his father, François Pinault. His $4.7 billion payment for a controlling stake in Puma in 2007 seemed a little outside the luxury purview at the time but the acquisition has helped shield PPR from bigger losses. His proactive budget cutting in spring of 2008 also helped the company stay flush. Pinault seems to be one of the faces of the new luxury, a little more informal, a little more budget conscious and a little more flexible in terms of making big moves--all necessary characteristics in today's fluctuating market.

Will Barneys File For Bankruptcy?


In January I mentioned that Barneys New York might be up for sale but now the luxury department store might be headed on a different path. Bloomberg News is reporting that the store is looking at either a debt restructuring or a bankruptcy filing. Dubai-based investment fund Istithmar World bought the luxury chain at peak value for $942 million in 2007. But after a year of slumping sales the company is feeling the increasing pressure of its boatload of debt. Earlier this year Barneys got a major infusion of money to allow it to pay for its shipments for the rest of the year.

Bloomberg says that Perry Capital, the hedge fund firm that helped finance the 2007 buyout, has been approached by the Canadian department store chain Holt Renfrew on an offer of join control of Barney's. Holt Renfrew has stores in major Canadian cities including Montreal and Vancouver. Getting a partner might be the best shot for saving the struggling retailer since it's unlikely that a buyer would come forward at this point. According to the article, Barneys and its owners are still considering what to do. With an uncertain holiday season approaching the store may have to make a move soon. Luxury department stores are cautiously optimistic that this season may be better than last but it probably won't be strong enough to alter the situation for stores that are struggling.

Why might Holt Renfrew want Barneys? If the Toronto-based chain ever wanted to make forays into the United States this would present a nice opportunity. The chains are of similar size. Holt Renfrew has nine stores throughout Canada. Barneys has nine department stores in major cities and like other stores such as Saks and Nordstrom it also has thriving business in outlets (it has 13) and lower priced stores (19 Co-OP stores). Both stores stock the same types of designer brands including Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen and Michael Kors.

Skyjet and Ultimate Escapes Make Perfect Combo

Filed under: Journeys, Wings

How can you make a corporate jet share program even better? After all, you're already traveling in the most comfortable manner imaginable. Bombardier Skyjet's new jet card members can use the program to go on the "Ultimate Escape" this summer. The new partnership between Skyjet and destinations will put cardholders in a top-tier destination for five nights of bliss.

Ultimate Escapes offers private luxury residences around the world. So, if you pick up a new prepaid Skyjet card – for on-demand private jet charters – you'll have your choice of destination homes. There are more than 150 destinations available around the world, making the choices pretty tough ... within this collection, there are more than 100 multi-million dollar homes.

"Whether it's a desire to relax on a pristine beach, golf on some of the world's finest courses or explore a new city, the Skyjet Card is the ticket to a perfect summer getaway," said Fred Reid, President, Bombardier Skyjet. "By partnering with Ultimate Escapes, the definitive leader in the destination club industry, new card members will feel right at home no matter how far their travels take them."

So, if you need to find a place to go when you get your new Skyjet card, the problem is already solved. Use your complimentary Ultimate Escapes stay to take your card for a ride. It just fits together nicely.

Financial Times To Bring Its Luxury Magazine To The U.S.

FT wealthThe luxury market may be struggling but the Financial Times has faith. Crain's reports that the salmon-colored financial paper will be bringing its glossy luxury mag, FT Wealth to the United States with the first issue launches on October 16. The magazine is for well-monied eyes only, global citizens with personal assets of more than $1.65 million (not including the primary residence). Around 100,000 copies will go to newsstands and Financial Times subscribers.

Here in the U.S. the magazine will compete against the Wall Street Journal's WSJ luxury quarterly. FT Wealth launched in Europe in March 2008. The focus of luxury magazines has changed a bit in the last year or so, the consumption is still conspicuous but it is also conscientious with an emphasis on wealth management as well as wealth enjoyment. For example, the first U.S. issue will look at the impact of the credit crunch on currency values but also evaluate whisky as an alternative investment. Luxury advertising has contracted over the past year but with the quiet buzz about potential recovery beginning to build, perhaps the pockets of both advertisers and readers might be set to open a little.

Four Star, Five Star, Does It Matter?

Filed under: Journeys

A couple of months ago I wrote about the luxury hotel industry's stealth cutbacks. The idea was that by paring down amenities in a subtle way they could save money without really disturbing the customer experience. But at least one resort chain seems willing to make a bolder move. Bloomberg reports that Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide Inc., the owner of luxury brands including St. Regis and W Hotels, is willing to surrender some of its hard-won stars and cut back on luxury service until the travel industry picks up.

Over the past few years star escalation reached the point that some planned projects were promising six, seven and eight star hotels even though what services would exactly merit those types of classifications had not been determined. It seemed the sky was the limit. Enter the economic meltdown and travel, like real estate, took on the look of a souffle bumped in the oven. All of a sudden a seven-star hotel seems unnecessary or even vulgar and a suite that runs deep into the four figures for a night's stay a bit of an extravagance.

Hotel operators are forced to discount rooms cutting into their profits. One way to stay afloat is to reduce operating costs. The requirements for five-star luxury requires scrupulous attention to the guest which necessitates a larger staff. Luxury hotels are betting that most guests won't really mind losing some of the more intrusive guest services especially since they are paying reduced rates. The question is how much the touches really do matter to guests. Five-star hotels often seem to traffic in the ineffable. Any time I've ever heard a CEO of a five-star hotel chain speak, their stories of exceptional luxury include customer service that attains near psychic levels with service personnel who aren't just polite and efficient but who anticipate the wants and needs of their guests with a fervid attention. The truth is that most of us will generally be quite content in a four-star hotel unless you prefer being attended to in a way that makes you feel like a movie star or royalty. Maybe there should be a new classification, a four-star hotel that can be upgraded to a five star if you require the additional bells and whistles. A four and a half, if you will.

A. Lange & Sohne Watch Company Rated Best German Luxury Brand, By Germans

Filed under: Timepieces

a lange & sohne watch
Hard (for me) to pronounce German Business magazine Wirtschaftswoche has recently rated watch maker A. Lange & Sohne as the "Top German Luxury Brand." The magazine does a regular ranking (each two years) of Germany's most well known luxury brands which combines everything from fashion houses, to car makers, and of course watch makers.

A. Lange & Sohne beat out companies from every other segment to be the top luxury brand, not merely the top luxury watch brand. The ranking was done through interviews with over 150 industry professionals and participants, and conducted via the Munich based "Brand Rating" agency.

A. Lange & Sohne's highest marks came in the category of "brand appeal." Meaning that people indicated that they personally wanted one, or could see others wanting them (as I speculate the questions to have been like). It should be obvious that when presented with the question, "do you want an A. Lange & Sohne watch?," people were going to say "yes of course." Though, they responded in the affirmative even more so than to questions about Porsche cars, etc... A. Lange & Sohne doesn't need an award like this to be a top luxury brand, but it sure helps remind everyone else.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Trump Tower Penthouse, Estate of the Day

Filed under: Estates


If you have the world at your feet, why not have a home that does your bidding too. A duplex condominium at Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue in New York City with SmartHome technology has been put on the market for $14.995 million. It is listed with Paula Del Nunzio, Senior Vice President, Managing Director of Brown Harris Stevens. The home's system integrates music, security, lighting, climate, window treatments and more and has internet-based remote support so that your home can be controlled from anywhere. Each room has customizable color touch screens with wall, remote and desktop controls. Invisible speakers are concealed behind the walls and ceilings, with iPod docking stations located throughout the apartment. The programmable lighting system offers a multitude of dimming and lighting scenarios.

The home's main entry is on the 48th floor and the floor-to-ceiling windows offer views of Central Park and buildings such as The Plaza and Sherry-Netherland Hotels. On this floor a guest bedroom or library with en-suite bath has views of Central Park. Also off the foyer is a large laundry room and a coat closet. Unlike some deluxe apartments, this one has a kitchen that actually seems made for use with twin Miele dishwashers, a Thermador range, Thermador refrigerator, Miele cappuccino maker, convection microwave and steam oven. Nearby an informal dining space has a 72" Perlick wine cooler, barstools and a banquet and just beyond is the formal dining room. Set beside the informal dining room is a bedroom with en-suite bath.

Upstairs on the 49th floor is the master suite which has his and hers baths with Kohler steam showers with a six-head jet system thermostatically controlled by Kohler's DTV panels both inside and outside of the shower. No need to go downstairs for a snack, a kitchenette with dishwasher and refrigerator sits at the top of the stairs. There is also a separate study or guest bedroom at the end of the corridor. The master bedroom is designed so that the bed is positioned perfectly so that Central Park views are the first thing you see in the morning for a very master-of-all-you-survey feeling. The listing is here.

Experience more lush living in luxury homes and mansions or see the stars living large with celebrity homes galleries at AOL Real Estate.

Urbane Nomads Offers A Kublai Khan Experience

Filed under: Journeys


Luxury travel purveyors, Urbane Nomads has given us a peek at their next trip. The company is currently working on a trip that combines the themes of equestrian adventure, falconry and hunting to be launched at an exhibition in Abu Dhabi in late September. The trip, billed as "The Most Luxurious Trip In The World" will attempt to capture the spirit of the lavish hunting expeditions of Kublai Khan.

The trip involves traveling through the western part of Mongolia to experience the exciting experience of horseback falconry. Guests will be led by an award-winning filmmaker familiar with the area, locals and the eagle hunters of Bayan Olgii in Western Mongolia. As guests try their hand at eagle hunting their portrait will be immortalized through an oil painting by a famous painter and falconer whose patrons include Sheikh Suroor bin Mohammed Al Nahyan, the first president of the UAE and the HM Queen Elizabeth as well as many other members of the gulf royalty.

The trip then heads to Northern Mongolia, on a horseback riding expedition where they will be guided by academic researchers actively involved in the study and conservation of the Mongolian reindeer. Travel will be by private jet and with the accompaniment of a private chef, a private butler. Guests will be accommodated in luxurious, movable private gers (yurts) outfitted in a luxurious style.

It all begins in Beijing where the guests will stay in the presidential suite of the Park Hyatt Beijing as well as a private villa designed by Kengo Kuma close to the Great Wall of China. Costs for the trip starts from $2 million. If Mongolia doesn't suit your fancy, tell Urbane Nomads your most outlandish travel fantasy. If you've got the money, they can likely make it happen.

Hurting Luxury Watch Companies Finally Discover Their Sales People Stink

Filed under: Timepieces

iwc pilot watch
You might have heard the saying "a sales person is born, not made." There is a lot of truth to that. Good sales techniques often don't rely on too many particular skills or knowledge of a product. Hell, sometimes they don't even rely on there being a good product. If you are an honest and straightforward person who is interested in really helping out the consumer - you'll make a terrible sales person.

Finding a good sales person is tough, because they are either in high demand, or often times their personalities makes them... less than reliable. A good sales person can effectively help erode logic and focus from an unwilling consumer and get them to purchase not on principle, but on emotion. And there are people out there who train others on how to do this. Only the most manipulative and shiestiest survive. You are good if the consumer doesn't even know they are being sold.

It is no secret that luxury watches have been hurting, bad. Estimates say that luxury watch sales in the US are down at staggering 42% or more from when times were "good" a few years ago. A recent story in the Wall Street Journal discusses how Richemont Group brand IWC hired sales consultant Jean-Marie Brücker for their Beverly Hills boutique store. His role is to train the sales people on proper selling techniques for items whose values aren't always on par with their price. Being a watch fan, I am not saying that watches are necessarily overpriced given their complex construction and typically low volume, but the price of entry for most luxury watches is intense to heart-stopping. Plus, if you are of the "I am so rich I don't care segment of the population" the sales people only need to be good enough to keep you in the store while you are looking around - so they don't have to play the "let's evade the matter of price" game.

Click below to read the rest of the article.

Cartier Hunkers Down For The Long Haul

Filed under: Jewelry

Earlier this week during his appearance at the Cartier Polo matches in Windsor Great Park near London with Prince Charles, Cartier's U.K. Managing Director Arnaud Bamberger spoke on the challenges facing the company. Cartier, which is part of the Richemont group, is preparing for the slowdown in the watch and jewelry market to go on for a while longer. Bloomberg quotes Bamberger as saying that he is not sure that the worst is over. He said that the company is doing its best to take actions to protect both the long-term health of the brand and the employees. Some employees in the Swiss watch plant have been moved to part-time work over the summer. Bamberger said that Cartier is in better shape than many companies partly because of the brand's growth in China. As we saw from the recent LVMH numbers, jewelery has become a highly vulnerable area in this economy.

Robb Report Loves The F.P. Journe Répétion Souveraine Watch

Filed under: Timepieces


Readers of the Robb Report know that they like luxury watches and tend to include more mainstream and independent luxury brands in their frequent timepiece discussions. As such, in Robb Report's recent "Best of the Best" awards for 2009, they have selected a number of products and services that together make up the ultimate items for the luxury lifestyle. In the category of "Men's Watches" there were five "Best of the Best" winners including this F.P. Journe Répétion Souveraine watch. F.P. Journe certainly falls in the independent category of watch makers in comparison to other winners which include brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin (each part of the Richemont Group). Other winning brands included Patek Philippe and De Benthune.

The Répétion Souveraine watch is unique as being an extremely thin minute repeater watch - with the manually wound movement being about 4mm thick. The watch includes this minute repeater complication as well as the time with subsidiary seconds and a power reserve indicator - all on a very typically styled F.P. Journe watch dial. The level of finish and subtle decoration is what collectors and enthusiasts come to expect from the brand the relishes in its French style while being made in Switzerland. The whole watch is about 8mm thick, which is really a triumph for any sonnerie type of watch requiring space for the gongs and hammers inside of the movement. This winning "Best of the Best" watch goes for about $165,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.


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