galleries

When you're visiting San Miguel de Allende in Mexico, it's hard to tear yourself away from its colorful, cobblestoned city center even briefly -- but if you're looking to do a little shopping, particularly for antiques, unusual housewares and art, take a short walk to Fabrica La Aurora.

La Aurora was a textile factory which opened its doors in 1902, and was once one of the largest employers in the area. It specialized in cotton, for everything from textiles to tennis shoes. Anyone who thinks that Mexico reaped all the benefit of free trade agreements should take the history of this factory under advisement: the company closed its doors in 1991, due to increasing global competition.

The factory is now home to antique shops, local artist studios and galleries, all amid the old machine works and photos of the factory the way that it once was. The factory was sprawling, and its maze-like space is fun to explore, even if you've got firm intentions to keep your suitcase light. (Although note bene, La Aurora has three jewelry shops and an excellent art and design bookstore if you'll make exceptions for the light in weight or light in wallet.)

Check out a directory of shops and studios here, and browse the gallery to take a tour of this most unusual shopping venue.

You know how it is in the art scene: big checks, big names and big egos like to stay under the radar. Anonymity is the norm, of course, and the buyers of Rothkos and Basquiats don't like to see their names in press releases. Yet, a look under the covers of the TEFAF Maasricht art fair shows that some pretty important pieces moved for some rather hefty amounts. The billionaires came out to play, and dealer and galleries were more than ready to accommodate.

Over 10-days, $2.7 billion of inventory was offered t dealers and museums from around the world. Prices edged higher thanks to a recovering art market, and impressive pieces found new homes. Jean-Michel's Basquiat's "Busted Atlas 2" was picked up for $2.4 million by a German collector, sold by Van de Weghe Fine Art, a gallery in New York.

Nonetheless, it's not like the art bubble. David Leiber, of New York's Sperone Westwater gallery, tells Bloomberg News, "Collectors are adjusting to the new values. We have to charge these prices because we can't replace these works." He adds, "There may be some people who went a little overboard at the auctions," a sentiment echoed by Paolo Vedovi of Galerie Odermatt-Vedovi. Vedovi observes, "Auctions are almost a separate market," continuing, "We don't see many of those people. Art fairs aren't as spontaneous. Buyers are cautious and they need to think."

For the past week, the art community has focused on New York City's annual Armory event, in which artists put their best pieces forward, dealers and galleries are on the prowl and collectors look for new finds that will someday redefine their portfolios. Momentum from the contemporary art auctions at Christie's and Sotheby's was certainly present, as all in attendance seemed focused on opportunity rather than window-shopping. The efforts at the Armory were consistent with a marketplace that's active, not the crushing fear that characterized the art market through the second half of 2008 and most of 2009.

1. Koons went bare
What was expected to be the most controversial event of Armory Week turned out to be subdued, though well attended. Jeff Koons offered a tribute to open sexuality with an exhibition that opened last Tuesday. Protesters weren't in sight, but musicians Cyndi Lauper and The Edge (guitarist for U2) checked out the show.

2. Solo booths were back in style
According to ArtInfo, "Solo artist booths were everywhere you looked." Individuals were ready to put themselves out into the market. Collectors had the opportunity to focus on specific artists as a result, rather than see disparate artwork crammed together by galleries and dealers managing inventory as if they were grocers. The good news, however, is that this shift isn't indicative of an art market slump. Rather, it's a sign of optimism. There's a belief out there that art collectors are ready to buy, especially given what we've seen at auction so far this year.

The art market was already in decline when the global financial system was sent into mayhem in September 2008, but the financial nightmare accelerated the drop. This past year has been pretty miserable for artists, galleries, dealers and collectors (who have seen their buying power dry up), but that doesn't mean there hasn't been anything to celebrate.

Several prominent pieces hit fantastic heights at auction this year. Some of the names will look familiar, including Andy Warhol, Henri Matisse and Alberto Giacometti. Old Masters and Asia are represented as well, as they have generally done best in resisting the forces of the art market recession.

Below, take a look at the top 10 pieces at auction in 2009.

The critics weren't kind to Damien Hirst's latest collection, which was exhibited at the Wallace Collection. It doesn't seem to have mattered. All news is good news in Hirst-land, as evidenced by the sales of his most recent effort. Hirst opened a new show yesterday at White Cube. Even if the media isn't crazy about his, the artist's collectors haven't ended the love affair. Five of the seven largest pieces in his new "Nothing Matters" collection sold before the show opened, with the highest-priced piece hitting $15.7 million, despite an initial point of only 235,000 pounds.

The show runs at White Cube through January 20, 2010, but you'll have to accept that you'll be checking out what is now other people's property. Hirst collectors are nothing if not loyal.

Art Moscow features works from 40 galleries – both from Russia and around the world. Originally, the art fair was supposed to run in May, but Expo Park Exhibition Projects Ltd., its organizer, pushed it back to hit at the same time as the state run Third Moscow Biennale of Contemporary Art. The dual event may bring a bigger turnout, but it will have to overcome a 10 percent contraction in the Russian economy.

Counting against Art Moscow ... aside from general economic malaise ... is the fact that the sale of Russian artwork is down. The major auction houses in London moved only $48 million in Russian art in June, down more than half from the same auctions in 2008.

So, how likely is a stream of cash? Igor Markin, a big-time collector and owner of the Art4.ru museum, says he "hasn't bought anything in a long time."

Larry Salander's glory days may be behind him, but that doesn't mean he stopped being a target. The 60-year-old bankrupt former mover and shaker was arrested again this week on a fistful of felony charges. On the list are three counts of grand larceny in the first degree and a count of falsifying business records in the first degree. If the stars line up against Salander, he could face a total of 29 (25+4) years behind bars.

All of this comes on top of a 100-count indictment filed back in March, in which Salander was accused of stealing a whopping $88 million in art from 26 collectors around the world.

Salander's claim to fame was that he was the first half of New York's Salander-O'Reilly Galleries. Leigh Morse, who worked as the director, was also arrested, charged with grand larceny and scheming to defraud several high-profile art estates. She could do 11 years (7+4) if the worst arises.

Both have gone the "not guilty" route, with Salander out on bail and Morse out on bond. But, neither is likely to be selling art anytime soon (I guess they have bigger problems than the current slump).

Art collectors benefit in two ways. It looks like two (alleged) bad guys are being yanked from the art scene. And, Manhattan District Attorney Robert Morgenthau sweetened the pot by offering some advice: "be careful who you consign your art to."

Yeah, thanks.

The mood in the Hamptons has been affected by real estate prices, plunging bonuses and – of course – the ongoing art market slump. But, the collectors gathering at ArtHamptons are trying to keep stiff upper lips. Rick Friedman, its founder and executive director, is saying that now is the best time to enter the art market, with low prices building in an inherently greater upside. And, there's no doubt. If you have the cash to put into the art market – and the inclination to invest in this asset class – now is the time to do it.

The major constraint on the art market isn't the notion that it's a bad time to invest. Any fairly serious art collector can see that this is the time to make a move. Like any other "discount," you can't take advantage of it if you don't have the price of admission. You might be able to pick up the Old Masters for a relative song right now, but if your bonus got slashed this year, the opportunity may not be possible.

So, what's moving at ArtHamptons this year?

Jane Wilson, who one a Lifetime Achievement Award this year, has seen some success, along with Elliott Erwitt, Lillion Bassman and other artists who lean toward decorative pieces. For some, the year's even been positive, with gallery director Joseph Newman calling the first quarter of this year the best he's had. Trompe l'oeil is working well, too. Interested in buying a Madoff joke for $13,500? You can do it with Eric Forstmann's Made Off with the Bail Out Package.

Meanwhile, soft porn is moving ... so, at least someone is making money on the skin business (the hardcore guys sure aren't). Suggestive images have always packed a bit of a thrill, and pieces that ply the flesh are doing well out in the Hamptons this year. Boyarde Messenger's Frilly in Yellow ($3,350) and Changing Rooms III moved for almost three times that amount.

The feel is somewhat upbeat at ArtHamptons this year, but the action is definitely taking place in the emerging artist space. Nonetheless, there are some big ticket items up for sale. At Vered Gallery's booth, you'll find a Picasso, Chagall, de Kooning and Rauschenberg – not to mention a 1984 portrait of Michael Jackson by Andy Warhol. If you're liquid, now's the time to enter the market!

If you crave a weekend full of antiques, Amish quilts and shoo-fly pie, it's just getting to be the right time of year for a visit to Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

But let's face it, all that old-fashioned country goodness can be a bit much if you're getting it around the clock. So instead of a B&B, consider staying at the Lancaster Arts Hotel. This 63-room boutique property is in a renovated 19th century tobacco warehouse, and while it's a member of Historic Hotels of America, there's nothing twee or sweet about it. Exposed brick walls and beams are paired with sleek modern décor, and the work of local artists are on display throughout.

The hotel is quite near Lancaster's emerging arts district, which has many galleries, some not-quite-ready for prime time, others that would be at home in any resort destination. Either way, it's the most fun to experience it when there's a crowd on hand, since, as a former industrial city, Lancaster can feel a bit depressing when it's empty. This is not a problem on the first Friday of the warmer months, when there's usually a great turn out for First Fridays -- all the galleries stay open to at least 9 p.m. The Lancaster Arts Hotel offers a few arts weekend packages among them, a First Friday package. Rates are about $200 a night for a studio room to around $300 a night, and up, for a suite.

Coming up Saturday, May 16th, is the Madison Avenue Gallery Walk. From 11 am to 6 pm, approximately 50 galleries on Madison Avenue between 57th and 86th Street will open their doors to raise funds for arts education in New York City public schools.

The sprawling, day-long event will include free guided gallery tours conducted New York City public school art teachers, and a silent auction of notable works donated by participating galleries.

Pictured is the Whitney Museum where, if you complete a family-friendly scavenger hunt, you can get 2 for 1 admission.

The Madison Avenue Gallery Walk is sponsored by HSBC Bank USA, N.A. and New York magazine, and benefits the Fund for Public Schools.

Any successful entrepreneur can tell you that tough markets are fertile ground for future success. If you can carve your piece of the world out now, an upturn later will reward you handsomely.

This sentiment must be on the mind of young British artists – such as Merlin Carpenter. London's contemporary art galleries are starting to show affordable works by newer artists. Far from investing in the future or giving the hopeful a fighting chance, this tactic is seen as a way to develop a near-term revenue stream that will help galleries survive the current financial crisis. Retrospectively, this stopgap measure could be seen as pure genius for the art galleries that discover the next Richard Prince or (blech) Damien Hirst.

Claims of forward thinking, however, will have to remain in the future. For now, dealers and galleries in London are struggling. Allsopp Contemporary shut down an exhibition space, and Yvon Lambert pulled out of London.

The market is searching to find – and exploit – some young blood, and buyers are pressing for discounts. The winners may just be the artists. Those discovered through desperation will define the market in the future.