elie saab

The Fashion Statement: Haute Couture's Lightness of Being

The Haute Couture Spring 2011 shows have yet to wrap up in Paris this week and, already, we know the end of the story. Designers are walking the tightrope between pale blush, pinks and nudes on the one side, and bright saturated jewel tones on the other. Similarly, styles are either soft, feminine and ethereal or dramatic and rich.

"There's a sense of lightness that we're seeing, particularly in the materials," says Joanna Manganaro, an editor specializing in womenswear at trend forecasting firm Stylesight. "Chiffon, tulle--everything is done in a light-handed way. It feels featherweight. It's something more modern, more uplifting."

That was clearly the case with Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci, a designer better known for being dark and severe, delivered a collection of gowns in pale yellows, barely-there pinks and light nudes as a tribute to Butoh dander Kazuo Ohno. In the end, he remained true to his reputation for boldness. When the models turned, they revealed the backs of the gowns that were embroidered in neon orange, chartreuse and fuchsia.

Christian Dior (pictured above) had a more traditional view of things. John Galliano paid tribute to René Gruau, an illustrator who created the house's iconic images from the '40s and '50s. Remember Dior's New Look from the '40s? Galliano (who has a new look himself--a shag haircut) reinterpreted the New Look in in electric blue, fuchsia, brown, emerald green and red taffeta and satin. One of the highlights was a flaring white skirt topped with a burnt-orange jacket with shoulders out-to-there.

Gallery: Full Bloom

Tags: armani prive, Chanel, Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Haute Couture Shows, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Kazuo Ohno, Lady, Rene Gruau, RiccardoTisci, Stylesight

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The Fashion Statement: A Velvet Revolution

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) —

Filed under: The Fashion Statement

Velvet usually comes out of mothballs about once a year: the holidays. Other than that, the fabric that has always stood for wealth and luxury tends to spend more time on settees and chaises than on warm bodies. That is, until now.

Velvet's not so underground anymore thanks to European and American designers who used bolt after bolt of it in the fall 2009 collections. And each one has manipulated the short dense pile into much more than just eveningwear.

Ralph Lauren, Fendi and Bottega Veneta created velvet rose-colored cap-sleeved frocks, neutral strapless cocktail dresses and burnt-orange slouchy day dresses, respectively. Chloé, Sonia Rykiel and Ralph Lauren went for velvet harem pants, mostly in dark green and black. Gianfranco Ferré, Lanvin and Elie Saab blew fashion watchers away with their long black velvet gowns with structured cap sleeves à la the '40s.

Aquilano.Rimondi-a new talented design duo from Italy-draped, cut and sewed bright red velvet into a belted cocoon coat-dress that hits just above the knee. Superb.

But if two designers can turn velvet into a full-blown trend of the season, it's Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs. Interestingly enough, both fashion forces took some yellow with their velvet.

Jacobs ran with the '80s-the decade he first hit the fashion scene- with neon yellow cocktail dresses like the one pictured above. Another yellow cocktail dress wraps its wearer like a mummy in wide-bands of velvet. (Fergie took this look out for a spin on the red carpet recently, only in electric blue.)

Prada reached back to a darker mood in the '40s and came up with a more toxic shade of yellow. This disconcerting yellow hovering somewhere between poison and putrid was made into a deep V-neck and stitched to a tweed skirt. Burned-out velvet made appearances on double-breasted coats and V-neck dresses (sometimes awkwardly topped with fur).

Gallery: The Fashion Statement, 07/30/09

Tags: Aquilan.Rimondi, Bottega Veneta, BottegaVeneta, Chloe, Elie Saab, ElieSaab, Gianfranco Ferre, GianfrancoFerre, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, MarcJacobs, Prada, Ralph Lauren, RalphLauren, Sonia Rykiel, SoniaRykiel, velvet

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Elie Saab Takes A Turn As Hotel Designer

by Deidre Woollard (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Luxury Travel & Hotels

Lebanese designer Elie Saab, known for his red-carpet gowns, will become the next designer to have a luxury hotel. Saab will be creating a boutique style hotel at the Tiger Woods Dubai resort, which is expected to open in September 2009. The complex will include 14 bungalows, 89 suites and easy access to a golf course designed by Tiger Woods himself. The Tiger Woods Dubai is a golf community located in the massive Dubailand project that also includes a golf academy, a 60,000-square-foot clubhouse, a retail area and villas and mansions for sale.

There are a wide variety of designers from the fashion and jewelry worlds who have lent their name to hotel designs and brands, below are just a few.

Gallery: Designer Hotels