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The Fashion Statement: The Little Black Dress

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



"Fashion fades, only style remains the same."
That's probably one of my favorite quotes from Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel.

So this post is in honor of the designer, the inspiration of
Coco Before Chanel (Audrey Tatou pictured above) and a timeless and ageless look she pioneered--the little black dress, or LBD.

I'm particularly struck by the LBD because, as I write this post, I am vacationing in Istanbul, Turkey. All around me, women are wearing black dresses for a variety of reasons. Some are wearing traditional Muslim dress, head-to-toe black, with black veils. European women are wearing knee-grazing black dresses with high heels for an out-on-the-town look. And the ancient city's Christian roots portray nuns in black habits (strikingly similar to how some Muslim women dress today).

With so many cultural influences coming from all directions how, then, did the LBD become a staple of a woman's wardrobe in the U.S.? In Western countries the little black dress has its origins in death. At the beginning and middle of the 20th century, women wore black dresses to mourn the loss of a husband, a son or a brother... sometimes for several years at a time.
Chanel, ever the independent woman to challenge what women could and could not wear, put on trousers, wore sailor blouses and proclaimed this dour look chic in 1926 when one of her short black dresses was published in Vogue. Later, particularly during WWI and WWII when women seemed to be wearing little black dresses on a regular basis, the eye had adapted and the LBD, however controversial, caught on.

Today, of course, the LBD is a classic akin to the trench coat, the pea coat and the perfect white shirt--a flexible garment that can be dressed up and dressed down. Lanvin, Jil Sander and Donna Karan have wonderful versions of the LBD gearing up to make their rounds during this year's holiday party circuit.

But it is worth remembering that Coco--said to have been a pre-feminist, a woman who liberated women from corsets, frilly gowns and gave them hands-free shoulder bags--was determined to live her life independently from men, financially or otherwise. To love men, but not to rely on them, is a noble aspiration to this day. If the LBD is not a direct statement on women and their independence, it is representative of a questioning and rebellious spirit that is always the hallmark of style.

The Fashion Statement: Slam it in Neutral

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



Move aside, paint splats, watercolor prints and all manner of brights. Spring collections like Catherine Malandrino's (pictured above) are also putting it into neutral. Neutrals have traditionally been the stalwart of spring, but these neutrals have, for lack of a better word, umph. There's something urban about them.

Rich khakis are everywhere (Alexander Wang, Vena Cava). Gray matters, particularly darker shades ranging from slate gray to dark charcoal (Narciso Rodriguez, Milly by Michelle Smith). Pale, oh-so-pale-it's-barely-there ice blue looks just perfect right now (Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs). And flesh tones like beige, milky ivory and taupe are so delicate I did a double take because I wasn't sure those models were clothed (Max Azria, Donna Karan).

Of course, there's a method to the madness. Designers are hyper aware that the shopper is going to go for basic pieces that complement what's already in their closet. Neutrals do the trick. And you can always change it up with a colorful bag, scarf or shoe.

Switzerland has nothing on Spring 2010.

The Fashion Statement: Orange You Glad...?

Filed under: The Fashion Statement

Who can forget the scene in The Devil Wears Prada in which Miranda (Meryl Streep) lectures Andy (Anne Hathaway) on cerulean blue?

...I think it was Yves St Laurent, wasn't it, who showed cerulean military jackets? Cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin.

The rant is memorable no only because it was snarky, but also because it was informative. That's exactly how it happens. Silhouettes and colors take on lives of their own and, before you know it, you have a full-fledged trend.

Halfway through New York fashion week, there's indication orange could be the next cerulean blue, in a manner of speaking (purple and red have been in the limelight recently).

Designers presented several orange "groups" -- three or four looks in one color scheme -- in their collections. Donna Karan's orange gowns and dresses were striking against a mostly pale palette of grays, silver and white. At Carolina Herrera (pictured above), orange gowns and dresses played beautifully off of an array of purple gowns. Carlos Miele showed a killer short cocktail dress with a racer back, one of the highlights of his show.

If that's the color of spring, thank goodness it's flattering. Orange you glad we aren't talking about mustard green?

LuxeStaple: Jumpsuits

Filed under: Apparel

For some time now I've been seeing more and more features on jumpsuits. For me, jumpsuits have a nostalgic feeling. As a kid, I remember my mom wearing them with a pair of heels, oversize glasses and her hair perfectly styled. She looked gorgeous. But to see them now, I can't say I'm completely sold on the idea of wearing jumpsuits. Perhaps it's because the modern day jumpsuits seem more scandalous than stylish. I don't want to look as though I'm a missing member of the Rick James female entourage. Luckily, there are some designers that are able to capture the simplicity of a jumpsuit and pair it with a fabric or print that is complimentary, making a woman feel sexy without feeling trampy. These designers are able to celebrate a woman's body without having to outfit her in an all around tight fitting, low cut ensemble. Of the many jumpsuits featured below, a favorite is Donna Karen's Seafoam Jumpsuit from her Spring 2009 line. The seafoam color would shine beautifully against any skin tone, while the fabric and print fall effortlessly on your body for a perfect fit without fuss. This particular jumpsuit is bold and eye popping enough that accessories could be kept to a minimum and you'd still look gorgeous.

DKNY Plans Branded Bubbly

Filed under: Wine

Donna Karan's fashion line DKNY is celebrating its 20th anniversary in traditional fashion, with a bottle of bubbly. Or many bottles in this case, the brand is working with Napa winery Chandon to create a DKNY sparkling wine which will have a special bottle design and will be available at the Chandon winery in Napa and on Chandon.com, as well as being given to guests attending the spring/summer 2009 runway show in New York.

Blogging from the Luxury Summit: Exploring Modern Philanthropy

Filed under: Charity


The main focus of the American Express Publishing Luxury Summit this year was exploring the changing world of philanthropy. Luxury and philanthropy are a natural match but some companies are scrambling to show that they are doing their part for the greater good. The good news is that some are having a lot of fun doing it. If I learned anything this week regarding the new philanthropy it is that is has to be compelling and interesting for the companies and people involved. The start of the discussion on the new philanthropy was led by Lisa Gabor, the editor of the magazine just for American Express's ultra-wealthy Centurion card holders, Black Ink, Barbara Banke, who is the co-proprietor of Jackson Family wines and has also turned her talents to horse racing and Marjorie Federbush, President, Strategies and Synergies.

Philanthropy in the modern age is high-impact, hands-on and results-oriented. People are using philanthropy to continue personal and professional interests. Making it a way to explore hobbies or indulge at the same time as doing something for the greater good is one of the most popular ways to give, this is one of the reasons wine auctions and festivals work so well. The wineries and brands get visibility, the donors get a great time and the charities reap the benefits.

Donna Karan's Designer Garage Sale

Filed under: Auctions, Events, Celebrity Shopping, Charity

Donna Karan is doing a little spring cleaning, which means a huge warehouse sale of all kinds of things she's been hoarding over the years. The sale will take place on March 13th and 14th in New York City at the Stephen Weiss Studio, and profits from the 2,000+ items will support different charities through Donna Karan's Urban Zen program.

In addition to all kinds of shoes, handbags, jewelry, and couture gowns Karan has decided to sell a black and white gown worn by Barbara Streisand, several vintage pieces she found inspiring, and a few creations from her first collection. She was quoted as saying things were "out of control" and that she plans to clear some things out on a yearly basis from now on.

Devil Wears Prada Costumes on eBay

Filed under: Apparel, Auctions

It seems a bit odd to call designer outfits "costumes," but once they have been used on film that is what they become. There are several pieces from the movie The Devil Wears Prada up for auction on eBay to benefit the nonprofit group "Dress for Success," which helps economically disadvantaged women start on the road to success by preparing them for interviews and other career opportunities. This Donna Karan two-piece crepe suit was worn by Meryl Streep/"Miranda" in the film. No size is indicated and it comes with a certificate of authenticity. The current bid price is over $500, but the auction doesn't close until July 3rd, so there is plenty of time for that number to go higher. And, for a good cause, why not?

An alternative source for movie merchandise is the Devil Wears Prada boutique that Deidre mentioned a few days ago. 

Rodney Yee Yoga Retreat in Bali

Filed under: Journeys

The COMO Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri is a unique retreat in Bali that focuses on the holistic experience. A quick look at their advisory board which includes yoga master Rodney Yee, designer Donna Karan, Ayurvedic specialist Robert Svoboda and noted Buddhist (and Uma's dad) Robert Thurman lets you know this is no ordinary place.  The resort strives to offer a deeper experience and provides a variety of health professionals including a nutritionist, a naturopath and a physiotherapist. The menu focuses on fresh organic cuisine and the accommodations are in villas. Rodney Yee will lead his first  yoga retreat week at The Estate from 22nd to 28th June 2006. During this retreat will lead five hours of yoga practice daily and he will also be available to guests to answer questions regarding yoga practice. Prices start at $2299 for six nights accommodation, daily brunch on yoga days, a welcome and farewell dinner and a one-hour COMO Shambhala or Indonesian Massage.

[via eTravel Blackboard]


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