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The Fashion Statement: Fashion Week's a Wrap

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



New York fashion week, which ends here today, will unfortunately be remembered as 1) the week during which Alexander McQueen committed suicide and 2) the last time Bryant Park hosted the shows.

As tragic as the loss of McQueen was, in particular, life went on as did the designers in the tents and elsewhere in the city. Here, a few highlights from the week:

Rodarte, shown above, looked as if heavy salvaged pieces of fabric had been caught up by a stiff fall wind and wrapped its wearer in bohemian luxe. Ironically, the Mulleavy sister design duo chose fall to lighten up with bright colors and florals, a stark contrast to the black goth-like collection they presented for spring.

Boyfriends and husbands, beware of closet raids. Preen set the tone for the new blazer silhouette -- a masculine and longer-body -- worn with a belt or not. After seasons of tight and short blazers, this roomier style looks just right.

Michael Quintanilla, a journalist friend of mine I bumped into after Donna Karan, made the comment that only the work of a master can transform basic black pieces into a phenomenal collection. Karan is such a master. Black off-the-shoulder gowns, black cocoon coats and black blazers accented with leather patches were simply gorgeous. The designer carefully punctuated the show with fuchsia coats and teal cocktail dresses that, against all that black, were all the more eye-popping.


The Fashion Statement: Farewell, Bryant Park

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



Fashion weeks gets underway here in New York today but, even before one model could place a stiletto on a crisp white catwalk, the mood was bittersweet.

That's because this week will be the final time the collections will be unveiled in the Bryant Park Tents. Bryant Park management had long been locking horns with fashion week producers, complaining that American fashion's biggest spectacle was growing too large and restricted public access to the park. In September, the shows will move to Lincoln Center's Damrosch Park, a venue that can better accommodate the twice-annual event.

The shows have been held at Bryant Park since 1993 catapulting more than a few designers' and models' careers and fostering many more memories. Several fashion insiders took the time to reflect recently and the Tents will be adorned with their quotes. Here, a preview:

"I began modeling in 1965 when there were only shows in Paris. When Bryant Park started, fashion became a world event. It was exhilarating." -Lauren Hutton

"Bryant Park became the beacon of what New York fashion stands for-an industry that's fearless, tireless, and always moving forward." -Anna Wintour, Vogue

"Bryant Park became the heartbeat of fashion twice a year... we will miss it!" -Diane von Furstenberg

"Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is when all of New York comes together to shine a light on its family of designers. We share a runway, a calendar, an audience-and of course, the spotlight. As a result, it has given us a world presence. There's no better way to support our industry than when we stand together as one." -Donna Karan

"I'll always have fond memories of the Tents in Bryant Park, it was one of the earlier highlights of my career." -Gisele Bündchen

"I propose that a plaque be mounted in the park as a legacy: 'The Bryant Park Tents 1993-2010 branded New York as the indisputable Fashion Capital of the World.'" -Tim Gunn

Donna Karan Eldridge Plisse Hobo, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Donna Karan Eldridge Plisse HoboThe Donna Karan Eldridge Plisse Hobo is a true accomplishment in modern craftsmanship.

The pale golden Italian calf leather is pleated as elegantly as if it were satin, creating a sleek, shiny, relaxed effect. The pleats cascade from contrasting round button details, and can even be folded in at the sides to achieve a more compact shape. We love the way the straps weave into the structure with a peekaboo at the top, and the lovely, gem like goldtone tag.

This hobo is a glamorous choice for a work bag, but at 19"H x 17 1/2"W x 4"D, it's also a sensible one. Though it's too large to get away with in the evening, you could easily fit a clutch purse inside for unexpected happy hours.

The Donna Karan Eldridge Plisse Hobo is available from Neiman Marcus for $1,495.00.

Donna Karan Crosstown Studded Hobo, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Donna Karan Crosstown Studded Hobo Handbag
Crinkled bags aren't all that common but here's a nice one from Donna Karan. The Crosstown Studded Hobo is made of crinkled black nylon (gotta love that 'needs to be ironed' look) with smooth black calf leather trim and little silvertone stud details all around the edges. The front has a large fold-over flap and the back side has a zippered exterior pouch with trim and stud detailing. Single leather shoulder strap and 3 interior pockets. A great, casual way to fit biker chic and studs into your wardrobe this winter. $695

Café Racer Leather Shoulder Bag, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Donna Karan Cafe Racer Handbag
A lovely, winter-toned neutral that will bring a dose of comfy (but slightly icy) gray to your wardrobe. The Café Racer Leather Shoulder Bag by Donna Karan is made of wrinkled leather and has a few strategically placed stud and stitch details, double shoulder straps, a cut-out panel, a large silvertone zipper pull, exterior pockets all over the place that overlap each other plus one large one on the front that zips. Pockets galore on the inside too, along with a hidden magnetic closure and a full lining. $1,295

The Fashion Statement: The Little Black Dress

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



"Fashion fades, only style remains the same."
That's probably one of my favorite quotes from Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel.

So this post is in honor of the designer, the inspiration of
Coco Before Chanel (Audrey Tatou pictured above) and a timeless and ageless look she pioneered--the little black dress, or LBD.

I'm particularly struck by the LBD because, as I write this post, I am vacationing in Istanbul, Turkey. All around me, women are wearing black dresses for a variety of reasons. Some are wearing traditional Muslim dress, head-to-toe black, with black veils. European women are wearing knee-grazing black dresses with high heels for an out-on-the-town look. And the ancient city's Christian roots portray nuns in black habits (strikingly similar to how some Muslim women dress today).

With so many cultural influences coming from all directions how, then, did the LBD become a staple of a woman's wardrobe in the U.S.? In Western countries the little black dress has its origins in death. At the beginning and middle of the 20th century, women wore black dresses to mourn the loss of a husband, a son or a brother... sometimes for several years at a time.
Chanel, ever the independent woman to challenge what women could and could not wear, put on trousers, wore sailor blouses and proclaimed this dour look chic in 1926 when one of her short black dresses was published in Vogue. Later, particularly during WWI and WWII when women seemed to be wearing little black dresses on a regular basis, the eye had adapted and the LBD, however controversial, caught on.

Today, of course, the LBD is a classic akin to the trench coat, the pea coat and the perfect white shirt--a flexible garment that can be dressed up and dressed down. Lanvin, Jil Sander and Donna Karan have wonderful versions of the LBD gearing up to make their rounds during this year's holiday party circuit.

But it is worth remembering that Coco--said to have been a pre-feminist, a woman who liberated women from corsets, frilly gowns and gave them hands-free shoulder bags--was determined to live her life independently from men, financially or otherwise. To love men, but not to rely on them, is a noble aspiration to this day. If the LBD is not a direct statement on women and their independence, it is representative of a questioning and rebellious spirit that is always the hallmark of style.

The Fashion Statement: Slam it in Neutral

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



Move aside, paint splats, watercolor prints and all manner of brights. Spring collections like Catherine Malandrino's (pictured above) are also putting it into neutral. Neutrals have traditionally been the stalwart of spring, but these neutrals have, for lack of a better word, umph. There's something urban about them.

Rich khakis are everywhere (Alexander Wang, Vena Cava). Gray matters, particularly darker shades ranging from slate gray to dark charcoal (Narciso Rodriguez, Milly by Michelle Smith). Pale, oh-so-pale-it's-barely-there ice blue looks just perfect right now (Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs). And flesh tones like beige, milky ivory and taupe are so delicate I did a double take because I wasn't sure those models were clothed (Max Azria, Donna Karan).

Of course, there's a method to the madness. Designers are hyper aware that the shopper is going to go for basic pieces that complement what's already in their closet. Neutrals do the trick. And you can always change it up with a colorful bag, scarf or shoe.

Switzerland has nothing on Spring 2010.

The Fashion Statement: Orange You Glad...?

Filed under: The Fashion Statement

Who can forget the scene in The Devil Wears Prada in which Miranda (Meryl Streep) lectures Andy (Anne Hathaway) on cerulean blue?

...I think it was Yves St Laurent, wasn't it, who showed cerulean military jackets? Cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin.

The rant is memorable no only because it was snarky, but also because it was informative. That's exactly how it happens. Silhouettes and colors take on lives of their own and, before you know it, you have a full-fledged trend.

Halfway through New York fashion week, there's indication orange could be the next cerulean blue, in a manner of speaking (purple and red have been in the limelight recently).

Designers presented several orange "groups" -- three or four looks in one color scheme -- in their collections. Donna Karan's orange gowns and dresses were striking against a mostly pale palette of grays, silver and white. At Carolina Herrera (pictured above), orange gowns and dresses played beautifully off of an array of purple gowns. Carlos Miele showed a killer short cocktail dress with a racer back, one of the highlights of his show.

If that's the color of spring, thank goodness it's flattering. Orange you glad we aren't talking about mustard green?

LuxeStaple: Jumpsuits

Filed under: Apparel

For some time now I've been seeing more and more features on jumpsuits. For me, jumpsuits have a nostalgic feeling. As a kid, I remember my mom wearing them with a pair of heels, oversize glasses and her hair perfectly styled. She looked gorgeous. But to see them now, I can't say I'm completely sold on the idea of wearing jumpsuits. Perhaps it's because the modern day jumpsuits seem more scandalous than stylish. I don't want to look as though I'm a missing member of the Rick James female entourage. Luckily, there are some designers that are able to capture the simplicity of a jumpsuit and pair it with a fabric or print that is complimentary, making a woman feel sexy without feeling trampy. These designers are able to celebrate a woman's body without having to outfit her in an all around tight fitting, low cut ensemble. Of the many jumpsuits featured below, a favorite is Donna Karen's Seafoam Jumpsuit from her Spring 2009 line. The seafoam color would shine beautifully against any skin tone, while the fabric and print fall effortlessly on your body for a perfect fit without fuss. This particular jumpsuit is bold and eye popping enough that accessories could be kept to a minimum and you'd still look gorgeous.

DKNY Plans Branded Bubbly

Filed under: Wine

Donna Karan's fashion line DKNY is celebrating its 20th anniversary in traditional fashion, with a bottle of bubbly. Or many bottles in this case, the brand is working with Napa winery Chandon to create a DKNY sparkling wine which will have a special bottle design and will be available at the Chandon winery in Napa and on Chandon.com, as well as being given to guests attending the spring/summer 2009 runway show in New York.

Blogging from the Luxury Summit: Exploring Modern Philanthropy

Filed under: Charity


The main focus of the American Express Publishing Luxury Summit this year was exploring the changing world of philanthropy. Luxury and philanthropy are a natural match but some companies are scrambling to show that they are doing their part for the greater good. The good news is that some are having a lot of fun doing it. If I learned anything this week regarding the new philanthropy it is that is has to be compelling and interesting for the companies and people involved. The start of the discussion on the new philanthropy was led by Lisa Gabor, the editor of the magazine just for American Express's ultra-wealthy Centurion card holders, Black Ink, Barbara Banke, who is the co-proprietor of Jackson Family wines and has also turned her talents to horse racing and Marjorie Federbush, President, Strategies and Synergies.

Philanthropy in the modern age is high-impact, hands-on and results-oriented. People are using philanthropy to continue personal and professional interests. Making it a way to explore hobbies or indulge at the same time as doing something for the greater good is one of the most popular ways to give, this is one of the reasons wine auctions and festivals work so well. The wineries and brands get visibility, the donors get a great time and the charities reap the benefits.

Donna Karan's Designer Garage Sale

Filed under: Auctions, Events, Celebrity Shopping, Charity

Donna Karan is doing a little spring cleaning, which means a huge warehouse sale of all kinds of things she's been hoarding over the years. The sale will take place on March 13th and 14th in New York City at the Stephen Weiss Studio, and profits from the 2,000+ items will support different charities through Donna Karan's Urban Zen program.

In addition to all kinds of shoes, handbags, jewelry, and couture gowns Karan has decided to sell a black and white gown worn by Barbara Streisand, several vintage pieces she found inspiring, and a few creations from her first collection. She was quoted as saying things were "out of control" and that she plans to clear some things out on a yearly basis from now on.

Devil Wears Prada Costumes on eBay

Filed under: Apparel, Auctions

It seems a bit odd to call designer outfits "costumes," but once they have been used on film that is what they become. There are several pieces from the movie The Devil Wears Prada up for auction on eBay to benefit the nonprofit group "Dress for Success," which helps economically disadvantaged women start on the road to success by preparing them for interviews and other career opportunities. This Donna Karan two-piece crepe suit was worn by Meryl Streep/"Miranda" in the film. No size is indicated and it comes with a certificate of authenticity. The current bid price is over $500, but the auction doesn't close until July 3rd, so there is plenty of time for that number to go higher. And, for a good cause, why not?

An alternative source for movie merchandise is the Devil Wears Prada boutique that Deidre mentioned a few days ago. 

Rodney Yee Yoga Retreat in Bali

Filed under: Luxury Travel & Hotels

The COMO Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri is a unique retreat in Bali that focuses on the holistic experience. A quick look at their advisory board which includes yoga master Rodney Yee, designer Donna Karan, Ayurvedic specialist Robert Svoboda and noted Buddhist (and Uma's dad) Robert Thurman lets you know this is no ordinary place.  The resort strives to offer a deeper experience and provides a variety of health professionals including a nutritionist, a naturopath and a physiotherapist. The menu focuses on fresh organic cuisine and the accommodations are in villas. Rodney Yee will lead his first  yoga retreat week at The Estate from 22nd to 28th June 2006. During this retreat will lead five hours of yoga practice daily and he will also be available to guests to answer questions regarding yoga practice. Prices start at $2299 for six nights accommodation, daily brunch on yoga days, a welcome and farewell dinner and a one-hour COMO Shambhala or Indonesian Massage.

[via eTravel Blackboard]

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