diver

Since when is it OK for a super high-end diamond seller and jewelry maker to make diving watches? Never, but Graff did it anyway. Not just that, but their audacity paid off because the ScubaGraff watch is a real horological winner. I love this thing. You can't tell on the dial, but the caseback has some Octopus tentacle images, while more are engraved in the metal work of the DLC black coated deployment strap (with a nifty micro-adjust feature).

Graff is being skimpy with details so I don't know pricing or the case size. The watch will be available in steel and gold, with a DLC black rotating diver's bezel. The case will be water resistant to 300 meters and have a helium release valve. I love the liquid blue dial and large easy to see hands. It wouldn't be a Graff without diamonds. Note the trapeze cut diamond as the 12 o'clock hour indicator. I believe it will be an emerald on the gold cased version. There is another precious stone in the crown. Inside the watch is an automatic movement with 50 hours of power reserve. There is also a unique 30 minute count-down timer on the dial, not sure how that is activated though. Really a cool diving watch from Graff - even if it is destined to be incredibly excessive.

Ariel Adams publishes the wrist watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

Hanhart is a brand you'll hopefully be hearing more about soon. The Austrian (I believe) sports watch brand has evolved into something quite nice over the last few years and might finally get the attention it deserve in the US under new North American oversight by the man who made Chronoswiss popular in the States. One of Hanhart's newer models is this Primus Choronograph watch. I wonder if the rock band Primus has anything to say about this? Maybe Hanhart just gave them all watches.

The Primus Chronograph comes essentially in two forms - one with and one without a rotating diver's bezel. The models with the bezel are referred to as the Primus Chronograph Divers, while the bezel-less version are the Pilots or Racers. The watches are 44mm wide in steel cases that have been aDLC coated black. The aDLC coating is very hard and scratch resistant. Note the red chronograph start/stop pusher. The dials on both models are a bit different and come in orange or steel/white. My top pick is the Diver. It has a neat looking striped rubber strap and easy to read dial. The Primus Chronograph watches use modified Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movements Look for these nice lookers soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

I got fed up waiting for more information on this watch. Oh well, you can't blame an industry notorious for bad communication to communicate badly. The good news is that I was really excited to learn about Louis Vuitton's follow up piece to their original Tambour Diver (Diving). They simply call the watch the Tambour Diving II. It will again come in men's and women's models, with two dial styles.

The Tambour Diving II uses the case size case and movement as the original, but with a more sport, less "luxo-diver" look. While The original Louis Vuitton Tambour Diving watch played with colors like brown and complimented the watch with elements such as mother-of-pearl - the Diving II has a more sober look meant to emphasize activities like boat racing. The subsidiary seconds dial has turned in to a square, and looks more like a pennant flag. Hands have been skeletonized (with a different color for the hour and minute hand), while hour markers are mostly round and done with lots of lume.

For men, the case will be 44mm wide and the women's model will be 39.5mm wide. Aside from the steel models, an 18k red gold model will also be available for men. Like any good diver, the case will be water resistant to 300 meters. Inside the watch will be an ETA 2895 automatic movement. The dial colors will be either the pictured black or a metallic blue. My only problem with it is that the hands are too short. Overall a beautiful watch that is not so much a replacement for the original Tambour Diver as it is a more simple looking supplement.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com

Look closely at the dials of these watches and you'll notice that the standard wave pattern has been replaced with a series of repeating hammerhead sharks. As far as I can tell, these limited edition watches are literally just made in honor of the ancient fish. Ulysse Nardin feels a connection with hammer head sharks and wanted to solidify that in wrist watch form. The Hammerhead Shark collection includes four different watches. Each is a combo of either steel and titanium or rose and titanium. Each combo comes on either a metal bracelet or a rubber strap. The titanium and steel models are each limited to 999 pieces each, while the titanium and gold models are limited to 350 pieces each.

Aside from a the shark theme and imagery, the bezels have a unique design to them, but the rest is classic Maxie Marine Diver. The watches are 45mm wide, 200 meters water resistant, and have Ulysse Nardin automatic movements with the date, subsidiary seconds dial, and a useful power reserve indicator. I quite like the two-tone version in rose gold and titanium - it has a nice sporty look that feels luxurious without being too showy.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

Once again Ulysse Nardin is a sponsor of the Monaco Yacht Show (Sept. 22-25), probably one of the most important yacht shows around (ritzy ritzy!). Each year they have a special limited edition watch for the event, and this year the piece take a dark, sinister tone. The watch is in all black save for some midnight blue elements on the dial (hands and some of the markers). The steel case is actually covered in a matte black vulcanized rubber coating. This has been places on other dive watches in the past (think IWC), and it makes for a cool, professional type of look. Aside from perhaps parts of bezel, there will be no glitz to this watch. The case is 45.8mm wide (200 meters water resistant) and has a rotating diver's bezel and a rubber strap with a black ceramic link in each end. The clasp is also in black ceramic.

Inside the watch is a standard Ulysse Nardin automatic movement (UN-26) with a subsidiary seconds dial and power reserve indicator. On the back of the watch you can see the movement along with a special "Monaco" image on the sapphire exhibition window. The Ulysse Nardin Monaco 2010 Marine Diver watch will be limited to just 100 pieces.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

This is a really nice looking dive watch from Christopher Ward, I am glad that they released it (well, about to release it). The design of the C60 Trident isn't exactly their creation entirely, but has a lot borrowed from fellow British watch maker Bremont. Consider this a more affordable Supermarine 500 watch. This baby Bremont isn't so baby in a 42mm wide steel case that has two optional movements. You can get the three hand automatic (C60 Trident Auto) with a Swiss ETA 2824 movement, and there is also a GMT model (C60 Trident GMT) with a Swiss ETA 2893 movement. The best part of the watch is the hands, which Christopher Ward adopted from Bremont, as did they with the hour markers. The watch is available on two strap options (leather or rubber), and a metal bracelet (another homage to the Supermarine 500 watch).

The case is water resistant to 300 meters and has a sapphire crystal. The GMT model differentiates itself by having bronze/rose gold colored hour markers and a greener lume on the hands. Of course it has a GMT hand as well, with a GMT rotating bezel. You can even get the GMT models with "Pepsi" style GMT bezel in red and blue (in addition to the black).

Priced between $390 - $690, these are a really good value for what you get (as are most Christopher Ward timepieces). And you can order them online from their website. If you can't afford a Bremont Supermarine 500 and like the style, then a C60 Trident Auto or GMT will likely certainly satisfy. Available between October-November 2010.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

This watch looks like a garage project of a talented plumber. After seeing enough piping, he just had to make a watch out of all that copper and those valves. Well Angular Momentum isn't a bastion of the world's most elite plumbers, but it does fancy artistic creations. And this watch isn't copper, but rather Beryllium bronze (rare to see made into watch cases). And there is a lot of bronze. The watch case is a massive 60mm wide! What a tool. I don't know the water resistance of it, but I know the watch weights 350 grams (and this is not on a metal bracelet either!). It comes on a specially textured rubber strap.

Hour markers, dial, and luminant are done in Angular Momentum's special Email Lumineuse. it is basically a colored luminant enamel that is applied over metal. The hands, dial, and bezel have the applications. It glows quite brightly in electric blue and green colors. Part of Angular Momentum's Freehand collection, the Beryllium diver Magnus might be a piece unique, but if you want one, Angular Momentum will make you one. You can read more about the watch here.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

While this new watch from Bulova comes in a few colors and styles, I simply had to show you the blue dialed version for a watch called "Curacao." Yes, I know the name refers to a place, not just a blue liquor, but still... Owner Citizen, has been beefing up the dive watch collection from Bulova for a while. We have the Kirkwood and Calypso (among others), and now the Curacao. In steel, the watch is modest in size at 41mm wide an is also available in a rose gold toned version. It has a decent looking rotating diver's bezel, as well as a fun style on the dial. The half ring around the date window is a new experiment on helping to either balance out the dial, or make the date window feel less awkward. The hour markers are applied, and there are a few different textures on the dial. Love that large, purposeful looking seconds hand, and the big crown. Though at only 100 meters water resistant, it is more diver watch style, than dive watch sound.

The watch has a sapphire crystal over the dial as well as over the back of the watch giving a view of the Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement (clone of ETA 2824). The rear window is a half circle, with the other half being a Bulova logo. The Curacao comes with a blue or black dial, in polished steel or a rose gold PVD case, and on a metal bracelet, rubber strap, or leather strap. Prices start at about 690 euros. Should be available rather soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

Some tout it as the poor man's Girard-Perregaux ww.tc watch, but there is nothing "poor" about Ball's new Engineer Master II Diver World Time watch. While it technically is placed in their diver's watch collection and has the type of durability you'd expect from such a pieces, this is a great watch for travelers. In addition to the ring style GMT indicator, you can get the time of anywhere in the world at a glance (as well as whether it is day or night there). There is also an internal rotating bezel that is of course necessary on a diver's watch.

Set in a 45mm wide Engineer Master II Diver steel case, the watch has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 300 meters. Inside the watch is a specially modified Swiss ETA 2836 automatic movement with the GMT ring complication in it. Ball calls it their caliber 965 The watch also has the day of the week and the date indicators. Like all Ball watches, the Engineer Master II Diver World Time watch is fitted with a number of tritium gas tubes in the hands and hour markers for effortless (no light charge) night viewing. Ball watches have the most powerful tritium gas tubes available in watches in the US. There are also 55 tubes in the watch.

The timepiece was inspired by Ball brand ambassador Guillaume Nery, the accomplished freediver. The watch caseback has an engraving meant to honor him. Ball will offer the Engineer Master II Diver World Time on a steel or rubber strap. Price should be a few thousand dollars, for this very cool, and highly useful timepiece.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

This little number came out a few years ago, but a few are available floating around on the net. A watch like this is the very definition of fake militarism and merely attempted style. Apparently camouflage isn't out of style, at least where ever most Ulysse Nardin watches are sold. This limited edition of 50 pieces watch takes everything you know about the Maxi Marine Diver and tries to hide the dial! Naw, you can still see it. I must admit camouflage looks sorta cool, even on a watch, but more in a gimmicky sense. I simply can't stomach the idea of taking a luxury dive watch, and making just the dial (or any of it really) "camoued" out.

Ulysse Nardin tried to further "harden" the look by making 43mm wide case steel and black. If I didn't know better I would say the watch is cool - but only if you are a bad-boy type with an obese trust fund. Inside the watch is the Ulysse Nardin automatic caliber UN-26 movement with a power reserve indicator and subsidiary seconds hand. It also also been certified as a COSC chronometer. The hour and minute hands, as well as the hour markers are thick and easy to read. Certainly a unique and easy to love (or hate) watch. Original retail price was about $7,000 and prices now are somewhat more or less given the highly limited state of the watch.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Richard Mille first teased the diver watch loving world with the RM 25 tourbillon diver watch. While the timepiece was ultra impressive, it was also ultra impractical. Now they release a new diver's watch that is more akin to something you might wear more often, but still requiring a large budget. This is the RM 28 Diver and represent a more simple dial design that I feel is actually more satisfying. Richard Mille timepieces are easily among the many brands that need to be seen in person to appreciate. The photos just don't do them justice, but at least you get a good idea of what the timepieces are all about.

The RM 28 is a bit smaller than the RM 25, being "only" 47mm wide in a titanium and rubber case. It is water resistant to 300 meters an has a hefty sized rotating diver's bezel. With a dial design the reminds me of Seiko dive watches on steroids, the watch is much easier to read that most Richard Mille watches, and has their cool vertical date window. The case is held together with a series of 22 torque screws. The movement is skeletonized and an automatic. It features a "variable winding level" which means that you can adjust how hard you need to move your wrist to get the watch to wind a certain amount. This is partially gimmicky, but an interesting concept. For example, Richard Mille expect you to adjust the watch if you are sitting at a help (easy winding), versus swinging a hammer around (tough winding). The winding level is set via adjustment done by 18k white gold pusher wings on the case. While a novelty, the idea is to get the owner more involved with the operation of the watch. Overall I like the bold looks, large hands, a fun character that Richard Mille brings to the "diver watch" plate.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

As though such a dive watch needed any beautification to begin with? IWC thought otherwise and has now crafted one of its new popular Aquatimer Chronograph watches in gold. This is the IWC Ref. IW3769 and it represents that large demographic of fully capable dive watches that you'd never want to get wet. Unless you find yourself suddenly in a James Bond style action-filled chase that ends up in the ocean, you are going to baby this watch.

All rose gold cased watches such as this feel good in the hands being hefty and solid - just what a good diver's watch should feel like. Aside from rose gold, the case has the sapphire crystal covered bezel, and rubber for parts of the crown and pushers, and for the strap. You also get IWC's special quick release strap that was first seen on the 2009 aquatimer watches. The watch is 44mm wide by 15.5mm thick. Only water resistant to 120 meters though, so don't get any deep diving ideas.

Powering the watch is an IWC in-house made caliber 89360 automatic chronograph movement that I really love. Not only does it have a long-lasting 68 hours of power reserve, but it also has a 12 hour chronograph in a bi-compax array. It does this by have two hands in the upper subdial, making it count both the hours and minutes. IWC typifies the chronograph hands by making them in red. Really a fantastic layout from a popular movement that IWC uses in a few watches. The back of the watch has a sapphire caseback window showing the movement. Nothing is better for "everyday excess" than a luxury dive watch with an in-house movement in my opinion .

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Another day and another limited edition luxury Swiss watch. This time a new color for the Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver, with the "Black Surf." Remember how everything is the "new black?" Well there is still the old black as well, and it is just as gifted as ever when it comes to fashionably fitting in.

The watch takes the standard Maxi Mariner Diver watch and gives it a nice black and gold overhaul. The roughly 43mm wide case is in 18k rose gold, while the dial, bezel inlay, and strap are all in black. I've always liked the combo of black and gold, but the look isn't always easy to pull off.

There are two versions of the limited to 500 pieces edition of the Black Surf Diver watch. The difference is in the metal link in the otherwise rubber strap that is either black or gold. Depends on your tastes of course in which you'll prefer. Inside the watch is the nicely executed UN-26 automatic movement that has been COSC Chronometer certified, with the time, date, subsidiary seconds, and top-mounted power reserve indicator. I've always enjoyed the layout of the dial, and it emulates the nautical instrument theme well. Expect prices to be a bit more than the mainstream Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver line of watches, as this a limited edition timepiece.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com

It has been a long road since Q1 of last year when Blancpain teased our eager eyes with the new 500 Fathoms watch. This month the watch will finally see its official release. So far there has been a special one-off 500 Fathoms watch for the Only Watch 2009 charity auction, a limited edition version to celebrate the release of the 500 Fathoms Watch at the Cannes Boat Show, and now the standard watch, that itself seems to be in a limited edition of 500 pieces - at least for the first run.

The biggest change to the final version of the watch from the early renders is in the dial colors (note the nice looking reversal of the colors for the Cannes limited edition). Notice the gray on black sections of the watch? Those gray portions initially shared the same dull green lume color as the four large Arabic numerals. Still, the gray sections are lume covered - so they will glow after being charged by light. There should be lume also in the rotating diver's bezel. Starting with the newer 50 Fathoms watch, Blancpain has has one of the best looking and most durable diver's bezels available, as they are covered with curved sapphire crystals. You also have the optional rubber straps that are uniquely done for the 500 Fathoms watches (seen in the image). Both this and the water resistant canvas strap ought to deal with the 1000 meter water resistance of the watch quite nicely when spending time "in the deep." I have yet to see a brand new metal bracelet for the line. If one comes out, it will look interesting no doubt.

You will finally be able to find the Blancpain 500 Fathoms watches out now where Blancpain watches are sold. It is even a stark departure from their outgoing luxury dive watch line (50 Fathoms and Aqualung). Movement is the in house made automatic Blancpain Caliber 1315 movement with a 5 day power reserve. Price is likely to be over $12,000, but we will see how Blancpain responds to the current stubbornness to pay retail luxury prices.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Harry Winston continues to fill out its line of sport watches with another Ocean Diver, this time a chronograph. A logical layout and color scheme for the chronograph subdials makes sense matched up to the luxury of 18k rose or white gold. The watch also contains copious amounts of Zalium - a special Harry Winston only metal alloy made up of aluminum and zirconium. Realize that "Ocean" is a name applied to an entire line of Harry Winston watches, so calling this watch the "Ocean Diver" Chronograph is not just a silly obvious statement. Harry Winston will not be releasing a "pond" or "stream" diver. The case is an admirable 44mm wide with three dial colors that are slate, silver, or rose gold. A fine looking dive watch with a nice rubber strap and the name of a good luxury brand attached to it. Pricey at between $36,400 and $39,400 dollars.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.