beauty-pedia

Our morning routine is no time for self indulgence. Typically, five minutes is all most of us can afford to devote to skin care before we head out for the day. However, incorporating these five skin care rules into your daily lives will ensure that you'll never need more than those 5 minutes to keep up that ageless appearance.

Rule #1: Avoid the sun!

Sure we all look better with a tan, but before this trend was popular, paleness was a sign of beauty and wealth. So where did we go awry? Well leave it to Coco Chanel to ignite a complete reversal of the image when arriving home from a vacation looking bronze. This must have been the birth of the freckle, sun spot, and skin cancer. Thankfully, with the advent of sunless tanning, we can achieve the sun kissed look sans the damage. However, it does not protect our skin from those nasty ultraviolet (UV) rays. So, never leave the house without applying sunscreen, at least SPF 15. Most facial lotions already have it mixed in, but be sure to double check the label. Additionally, avoid the sun during the "Prime Tanning Hours" of 10am-4pm. If you do expect to spend an extended period of time out during this time frame wear sun glasses, and a wide brimmed hat. Squinting leads to the development of crows feet, and UV rays also cause eye damage. Hats provide an extra layer of protection, and will also keep color treated hair from fading prematurely.

For this season's holiday parties, it's all about volume and glam. The holidays are a great time to try something new & different with you hair, Sally Hershberger, the celebrity hair stylist who has salons in New York and Los Angeles, told Luxist what she believes are the best styles to wear during the holidays.

Ponytails
"Ponytails are an easy alternative to an up-do. They are so chic and easy to do at home---perfect for the holidays!," says Hershberger. "First, I like to use a root lifter in the hair like my Shape Up. It boosts the hair from the root and gives amazing texture and hold. Then, blow dry with a round brush to give hair insane volume and polish. Next, loosely pull your hair back and secure it into a ponytail- low or high. Spray Body Fix on the ponytail to give it texture and make it slightly edgy, or keep it smooth and shiny with Smooth Fix. I like to wrap a small piece of hair around the elastic and secure with a bobby pin."

Chignon
"The chignon is one of my favorite looks for the holidays," says the celebrity hair stylist. "This style gives off an old Hollywood vibe that is elegant and easy to get at home. Prep your hair as you would a ponytail. I like to keep chignons low right now at the nape of the neck. Wrap the hair around the elastic and secure with pins. For a more polished look, spray Smooth Fix in the hair for a glossy finish. And for a fresher party style, pull some pieces out from around the face and spray a texturizer on the chignon."

Luxist Awards Expert Panelist Harry Slatkin is best known for the home fragrances he has created. Slatkin is founder of Slatkin & Co., the premier home fragrance brand celebrated for its scent experience and design (now a division of Bath & Body Works). He oversees product development for all the home fragrance brands under Bath & Body Works, the country's largest bath and body retailer with over 1,650 stores.

In this video, Slatkin explains how to give home fragrances
as gifts.

"They are great because they last for so long," he says. "Plus, it is a gift that people can enjoy instantly."

Slatkin says he may bring a fragrant candle, long with a bottle of wine or a box of chocolates, but the candle will last longer than either of the other alternatives. "A box of chocolates might last a week, but a fragrant candle will last a lot longer."

Slatkin explains how he goes about selecting the scents of the candles he gives to friends.

"I always try to think of the personality of the person, but I also make it seasonal," says Slatkin. "If it is holiday time, I will give a scent that is more wintery, with tree-like scents. If it is spring time, I will select more floral scents like jasmine. If it is summer I will give cleaner scents."

A loophole in a 37-year-old federal law allows makers of perfumes, colognes, and body sprays to conceal the chemicals that comprise the fragrances---and some of those unidentified odor creators may be harmful to public health, according to two advocacy groups.

Laboratory analysis was performed on 17 best-selling fragrance products, with tests revealing that the products together contained 38 chemicals not listed on product labels, reported AOL News today.

At the top of the list was American Eagle Seventy Seven with 24 secret chemicals. Chanel's Coco had 18 and Britney Spears Curious and Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio have 17, according to AOL News. View the list of offenders at AOL News.

"Every product we tested contains a mixture of secret chemical compounds not listed on the labels," Jane Houlihan, senior vice president for research for Environmental Working Group, told AOL News.

Worrisome for advocacy groups is that several of the undisclosed chemicals, including diethyl phthalate and musk ketone, contain hazardous properties or have a propensity to accumulate in human tissues.

Fragrances are not the only products that may contain undisclosed chemicals that can be hazardous. Many shampoos, lotions, bath products, cleaning sprays, and laundry detergents, contain ingredients that are not disclosed on packaging.

The Fragrance Materials Association of the United States (FMA) disagrees with the study's findings. "There is nothing 'secret' about the ingredients being used in fragrances," according to a statement issued by the FMA. The fragrance industry has published a listing of more than 3,000 fragrance ingredients that are currently being used in all forms of consumer products. This list can be found online.

"Scare mongering through the use of 'suggested' or 'potential' associations between fragrance materials and various toxicities is deplorable, particularly when present in a document that purports to be scientific,' said Cathy Cook, the association's spokesperson in a statement. The FMA further faulted the study because it was "self-published and not peer-reviewed."

Is your hair stylist being completely honest with you? Chances are she's not, as no matter how close the two of you are there are certain things he or she is probably thinking but wouldn't dare say out loud. Here are a few of the most common.

• "I can't work miracles. I can give you that celebrity's haircut but I can't give you her face."
• "This is a business so although we might be friends please call if you're running late. It's just basic respect."
• "Don't ask me to 'squeeze you in' when I'm already booked. It would mean rushing through or taking time away from others and that's bad for my business and hardly fair to other clients."
• "I'm a good listener, not a therapist. I know about hair, not relationship problems and mental disorders."
• "Your hair changes with your hormones so if you're pregnant or menopausal it might not hold curls the way it used to or become brittle and limp. Don't blame me, just see a doctor."
• "You're lucky children's haircuts don't cost more than yours, and they definitely shouldn't cost less. Kids don't sit still, they kick, and they scream. It isn't easy."
• "A dollar doesn't buy anything anymore so you should tip at least $3, more if you have long hair or got a special treatment."
• "A trim is never "just" a trim because it takes both my expertise and my time. Would you let your neighbor do it? Or one of your friends even? No? I didn't think so."

Everybody wants to look and feel young, healthy, and vibrant, but unfortunately our lives don't always make achieving that goal easy. Stress, pollution, activities, and even the food we eat can affect how fast and how gracefully we age. Are you making diet choices that will keep you looking young?

The best anti-aging foods:

• Berries like blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries are especially high in Vitamin C that helps to reduce wrinkles and age-related skin dryness, fiber that boosts heart health and helps maintain a healthy weight, antioxidants that fight against environmental and dietary toxins, and polyphenols that are thoughts to battle age-related mental decline.
• Green leafy vegetables like spinach, kale, and swiss chard have high levels of Vitamin K that helps keep bones strong and lutein and zeaxanthin that together keep vision sharp by protecting eyes from the harmful effects of ultraviolet light.
• Whole grains such as whole wheat, brown rice, and oats are full of a wide variety of nutrients and minerals that help prevent heart disease, stroke, diabetes, cancer, high blood pressure, and even gum disease. Whole grains are also full of appetite-curbing fiber for help maintaining a healthy weight.
• Low-fat dairy because its protein can help maintain healthy strong muscles (age-related muscle loss makes you look and feel older) while its minerals can help keep bones strong and blood pressure within healthy limits.
• Water helps all of the functions in your body, including waste and toxin removal and skin rejuvenation, work better and faster. Dehydration strains body systems but is especially bad for the skin, making it appear dull, less supple, and wrinkles more pronounced.

Tired of the same old scent? Interested in wearing a fragrance that has been personalized and created just for you?

Customized scents are a growing trend in the fragrance industry. While it is a cottage industry that has been around for a long time, more companies than perhaps ever before are now offering custom-ordered, personalized fragrances, including Scent Design, Esens, Neil Morris Fragrances and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

So how do you navigate the process of finding your own personalized fragrance? To find out these answers, Luxist consulted with Frédéric Malle, world renowned artisan perfumer and founder of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, a Paris-based fragrance company.

Malle advises clients first to be prepared to dig deep into their imagination. Indeed, an artisan perfumer will ask you many questions to find out about your personality and desires.

Editions de Parfums handles each of its clients with extreme care. They take time and careful precision to ask the right questions of each client so that they can match them with a fragrance that will suit all of their needs.

Edition de Parfums is able to match the perfect fragrance for each client by having them first complete an in-depth questionnaire personally created by Malle. The questionnaire gives potential consumers the ease to tap into their imagination as they answer each question. The first question it asks clients to answer is "Do you have any particular desire at the moment?" Other questions include, "Why do you wear perfume?" (To seduce, refresh, add a final touch, etc.); "Is the perfume for yourself, or another or for all others?"; and "Which perfumes have most marked you?". The questionnaire inquires about the style of clothing a client will wear (formal attire, evening dress, city wear, sport, country, etc.) with the perfume and about his or her favorite clothing brands. Edition de Parfums also considers the weather and climate of where the client lives. The questionnaire can be filled out in Edition de Parfums stores or conveniently on line.

"Filling out the questionnaire on line is very similar to the experience that you would have when you walk in the store," says Malle. "It's almost better. Sometimes people want to fantasize about themselves and introduce themselves in the best way. For example when we ask 'what designers you wear?' on our website there are more people who wear Prada then Zara. People either answer the questions honestly or they may give an idealized version of themselves. It's fine to introduce yourself on the website in a slightly improved way other than reality because it gives us the style that you like best, not whether you can afford the style you like best."

"If you tell me that you want to buy a fragrance because you do a lot of running and after going to the gym and you need to feel refreshed before going into the office I won't point you towards the same fragrance as someone who tells me 'listen.... I just changed boyfriends and we go out every night and I want to be as attractive as possible after 9:00 pm...' It's a different deal," Malle adds.

The art of perfume is a science and artisan perfumers are experienced chemists who understand the complexities of chemical compounds. For a perfumer to create one single fragrance it can take upwards to one year to develop and perfect. This is not an easy or simple process. Before seeking out a fragrance that is specific to your needs, first find a perfume publisher with accreditation and experience (such as Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle). An experienced perfumer will compile information to "match your personality" with a fragrance that will be selected especially for you.

Malle, for example, has been a "perfume publisher" for more than 23 years. He was born into the world of perfume and is the grandson of Serge Heftler, founder of Dior Perfumes. In 1986 he joined the prestigious perfume laboratories of Roure Bertrand Dupont. There, he formed the foundation to cultivate his craft and befriended some of the world's most renowned noses thereby setting the stage for his future role as a creator of Edition de Parfums. Malle approached the best perfumers in the business who agreed to put their names one what eventually became some of their finest creations. Edition de Parfums was conceived in 2000.

Malle explained the inner workings of his company. "We have 18 different fragrances, all of which are very different from one another," he says. "There are so many options that could fit different personalities. This company works on two levels. One level we have the best fragrance creators who come up with very specific works of art. The second is at our stores or on our website where we do "match-making". We try to match the right person to the right fragrances within the collection."

The likelihood of walking into an accredited and experienced perfumery to make an inquiry about creating a personalized fragrance is close to zero. The process of creating a fragrance is so intricate and time consuming that most genuine perfumers do not offer this service. Edition de Parfums is one of the few perfumeries that takes the time to consult with each and every client to provide them with a fragrance that is customized to fit every facet of their individuality.

"It takes a year to get a fragrance right," says Malle. "So I don't see how it is possible for a sales person in any store could make a good fragrance in ten minutes. It is just impossible. It is a very long and tedious process and anyone that says otherwise would be lying."

Edition de Parfums fragrances can be purchased online or at one of its boutiques around the world. Fragrances range in price (depending on the scent) from 80 EUR ($108) to 130 EUR ($175) for a 50 ml perfume spray and 115 EUR ($155) to 200 EUR ($269) for a 100 ml spray. Soaps, shower gels and body lotions are also available for purchase. Edition de Parfums boutiques are located in Paris and New York.

Beauty sleep is very real. It's during sleep that skin damage from daily stress and pollution is repaired, dermal layers are rejuvenated, and even facial muscles are relaxed and gravity is shifted so wrinkles become less pronounced. Without enough sleep skin can look sallow and dry with uneven skin tone and more defined wrinkles. Wake up looking your best with these basic tips.

• Get a head start Make a habit of washing your face and getting the rest of your nighttime beauty routine out of the way well before you're actually ready to go to bed, like a couple of hours ahead of time, so when you're really tired later you won't be tempted to blow it off.
• Sleep on your back because laying on your side or stomach can literally press wrinkles into your face as you sleep.

According to the Centers for Disease Control, skin cancer has become the most prevalent form of cancer in the United States. To prevent against this threat, more and more people are turning to the regular use of sunscreen. The Sun protection industry has taken off; sunscreens are now found in makeup, clothing, lotions, even in lip balm. However, all sunscreens are not created equal.

Sunscreens work by absorbing, scattering, or reflecting sunlight off of the skin. Organic chemicals found in sunscreen, such as para aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and oxybenzone, absorb the Sun's ultraviolet rays before they have a chance to penetrate deeply into the skin. Other chemicals, namely zinc oxide or titanium oxide, are reflective particles that reflect incoming ultraviolet radiation away from the skin.

Unfortunately, although sunscreens provide a significant amount of protection from the sun, these chemicals are not 100% effective. Even after the application of sunscreen, all sun exposure carries with it some risk.

To minimize the risk from the sun's harmful rays, use of a "broad spectrum" sunscreen is recommended. Broad spectrum coverage refers to protection from both UVA and UVB rays – two different forms of ultraviolet radiation from the Sun. According to the Centers for Disease Control, UVA rays are the most common kind of sunlight at the earth's surface. UVA rays penetrate past the outer layer of skin and can lead to premature aging, damaged connective tissue, and an increased risk of developing skin cancer. Most UVB rays are absorbed in the atmosphere, but those that reach the surface of the earth contribute to the tanning and burning of skin. As such, UVB rays also contribute to a person's risk of developing skin cancer.

In addition to selecting a sunscreen that has broad spectrum coverage, a high Sun protection factor, or SPF, is recommended. SPF is a number which helps determine how long a person can spend in the Sun. According to Anne Marie Helmenstine, Ph.D., SPF only indicates protection from UVB rays, those rays responsible for the tanning and burning of the skin. It does not indicate protection from UVA rays, which can also lead to skin cancer and premature aging. A higher SPF indicates that more UVB rays are reflected or absorbed by the sunscreen, decreasing penetration of those rays into the skin.

SPF is simply a multiplication factor. If a person can spend 20 minutes in the Sun before getting burned, using a sunscreen of SPF 10 would allow that person to stay 200 minutes, or 10 times 20 minutes in the Sun before becoming burned. An SPF 15 sunscreen would allow that person to stay 300 minutes, or 15 times 20 minutes, out in the Sun before becoming burned.

This post was contributed via Seed.com, AOL's new platform for freelance writers.

The way we do our hair is a mix of instinct, genetics, fashion trends, and personal taste, but sometimes all of those variables don't come together smoothly and a truly unflattering style results. If your mom isn't around to tell you about it though chances are no one else will, so here are a few tips for making sure you're flaunting a 'do that brings out the best you have to offer.

The key to choosing a hairstyle that really flatters is understanding what your basic face shape is: oval, round, square, or heart. If you don't know or are unsure see our How to Determine Your Face Shape post, then read through the guidelines below.

Oval faces are the most versatile and can pull off pretty much any cut. Pick your best feature and style your hair to accentuate it, for example bangs will bring out your eyes while an angular bob will accentuate your jaw, cheekbones, and bone structure.

Round faces look good in off-center parts that break up the roundness, along with height and volume at the crown to elongate and slim the face. Wispy or tapered ends and layers also work well. Avoid cuts that are widest at the cheekbones or round bobs that end at the chin -- both will add weight and make the face appear even rounder.

You can create your own unique signature scent by layering scents, according to Luxist Awards Expert Panelist Harry Slatkin, who is regarded as one of the country's leading fragrance experts.

"Don't be afraid to mix," says the fragrance expert who is the founder and creative force behind Slatkin & Co., the premier home fragrance brand celebrated for its scent experience and design (now a division of Bath & Body Works). "But of course your nose knows what will work and what won't."

For a truly unique scent, consider layering two or more fragrances. The trick is to blend notes that complement each other. Jasmine, vanilla, rose and citrus work well with most scents, while stronger notes such as patchouli and vetiver don't mix as well. A tea scent---or a perfume that has tea in it---might layer well with a rose, gardenia or a lavender scent. Slatkin recommends using a classic fragrance as a base, such as Chanel No. 5, and adding something on top. "Be daring and take it in a different direction," he says, "and you'll end up with something that's truly unique and memorable."

Remember, there may be scents in the shampoo, conditioner, cream and lotions that you use, which can change the scent of a perfume you may wear.

"If you like it, then it works," says Slatkin. "But if you walk in a room and you see people's eyes welling up with tears, then you know it isn't working for anyone else but you. If that is the case, then maybe it is something you shouldn't wear it again. Remember, it is not just about yourself, it is about everybody. You want to please people as much as yourself with scent."

Every woman needs a little black dress (LBD) in her closet that she loves, feels sexy in, and can pull out and be fabulous in on a moment's notice. Finding such a dress is easier said than done, however, as both women and dresses come in all different shapes and sizes. Finding the most flattering dress for your body type can be overwhelming but here are a few tips to help.

Fabric A great LBD is a versatile, long lasting investment so choose the most timeless and luxurious fabrics like wool, silk, linen, or cashmere. Knits and fabrics containing Lycra or spandex won't work for nearly as many occasions and won't last as long.

Hemline The most enduring and flattering hemlines fall right above or right below the knee. Avoid trendy lengths that are very long or very short.

Fit A good rule of thumb when choosing a dress is to follow the 3:1 rule: go 3 parts covered to 1 part revealed (i.e. if you choose a plunging neckline forgo a sky-high slit in the skirt). Finding the right fit is the most challenging part of shopping for a little black dress, but get it right and you'll have a 'best friend' you can dress up or down for any occasion for years to come. Consider the following tips for flattering different bodies.

Whether you're deciding on a new hairstyle or buying a hat, knowing what shape your face is can help choose you the most flattering style. There are four basic face shapes: oval, round, heart, and square, plus a few sub-shapes such as triangle (or 'pear'), diamond, and rectangle (or 'oblong'). The first step to determining which you are is to get out a tape measure and write down some numbers.

1. First, measure across the top of your cheekbones.
2. Then measure across your jawbone, from widest point to widest point.
3. Third, measure across your forehead at the widest point (somewhere between your eyes and hairline)
4. Measure from the top of your face (at the hairline) to the tip of your chin.

Now that you have these four numbers you can determine which face shape you fall into:

Fragrances will last a long time--if they are properly stored, says Harry Slatkin, fragrance expert.

"Fragrances will last a long time if they are protected," says Slatkin, founder of Slatkin & Co., the premier home fragrance brand that is now a division of Bath & Body Works (see video below).

Keep your fragrances, including perfume, eau de parfum, cologne and eau de toilette away from heat. Most importantly, protect them from direct light, especially sunlight. "Light affects the chemical makeup of a fragrance and will change its color which affects the dynamics of how it combines," he adds.

Likewise, Slatkin says fragrances should not be stored in a refrigerator, as the humidity can also change the chemical makeup for the worse. It is best to keep the fragrances in their original containers, if possible, and with the tops tightly closed to avoid exposure to air. If given a choice, opt for bottles with spray dispensers as opposed to ones with open tops or roller balls. Spray dispensers better protect the fragrance from exposure to dirt, dust and air, and have a longer shelf life, too.

Don't be too quick to throw away bottles of perfume that you think may be too old to use, as long as they have been stored properly over the years. "I have smelled scents that are 15 years old, some in bottles that hadn't ever been open," says Slatkin, who is a member of the Luxist Awards' Panel of Experts. "They hold pretty well, and don't change character too much."

Perfume is more concentrated, more complex and less fragile than fragrances (such as eau de toilette, cologne and eau de parfum) that contain less oils and are more diluted. As a result, perfumes tend to last much longer.

We gave you the lowdown on the latest collection from Susan Woo this season. To mirror the stunning clothes, the models wore a perfect makeup palette embodying spring. Backstage, Tina Turnbow, lead makeup artist for Tarte has created the flawless look.

For an effortless, fresh face, achieve the look in three steps: a dewy complexion, kohl-rimmed eyes, and natural lips. After applying your tinted moisturizer, sweep cheeks with cheek stain Dollface. For the smoky-eye look that works all day long, line your eyes with a kohl liner, and smudge with empasEYES waterproof shadow/liner in charcoal to add depth at the lash line. Curl lashes and add several coats of mascara, then brush brows in an upward motion. Finish with a swipe of new LipSurgence, a natural mint-flavored lip stain.

We had the opportunity to sample the LipSurgence in "amused," a wonderfully bright fuschia shade. We can vouch that it adds just the right amount of color to your face without rubbing off on your wine glass.