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Patek Philippe 5951 Watch, Boring at Baselworld?

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

While to an extent it is true that "Patek Philippe can do no harm," it is also true that they can bore you to sleep. New, less than exciting watches for 2010 feel aimed square at collectors and do nothing to make newbies interested in the brand. In fact, with mostly Asian buyers seeking out the brand, the tiny new calibers and "same as before" looks show unflattering hesitation in the brand to do anything that isn't going to appeal to people who are just buying their watches as investment. The sad thing, is that Patek Philippe really is good at making nice designs - they just hold back most of the time. And yes, the watches are still mechanically good. Nothing new there, but no new technical innovations as far as I am concerned.

For 2010 there was no Patek star at Baselworld. Though this new model might be claimed as one give that the rest are less than 'descript' - it is the Ref. 5951 in platinum. It looks smaller than it is with a effeminate cushion shaped in the precious metal. Though the red and black colors prove it is a man's watch. It has a good look, in a "dandy" sort of way. Is that really the look you are going for Patek? Inside the watch is the new manually wound CHR 27-525 PS Q caliber, with a bunch of complications. There is the time, monopusher split-second (rattrapante) chronograph, perpetual calendar, day/night indicator window, and moonphase. The watch also comes with a hot injection of Patek snobbery no doubt.

Patek Philippe has made a nice watch, in the wrong case. And I don't understand the sporty colors at all. These odd elements really take away from the cool movement, and symmetrical (though cluttered) dial design. Patek should really stop sitting around thinking about what their core customers want to buy, and start making watches that they themselves want to make, once again. At least that is my view. No doubt, the watches will sell as Patek Philippe can't do wrong...

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Breitling Superocean Watch For 2010

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

breitling superocean watch
The outgoing Superocean watch never really got me very excited. Then Breitling released the beautiful Superocean Heritage collection which was beautiful. A very simple looking watch that was also durable and handsome. It totally contrasted the typically busy Breitling look. Learning from that lesson Breitling has redesigned the standard Superocean watch for 2010. It now feels like a mixture of the Superocean Heritage and a few other Breitling watches out now. So while it is not a totally original piece in most regards, it is still overall satisfying.

Details at this point on the watch from Breitling are zero except for what you see above - so I need to give you the "Ariel predictions." Size of the steel watch will be at least 44mm wide, perhaps a bit larger. It will have a slightly domed sapphire crystal and lots of durability. Water resistance will be at least 300 meters, but could be much higher given Breitling's competition and the ability for its owners to have bragging points. Bezel is very much a hybrid between the Superocean Heritage and some of Breitling's more modern styles. Note the 'futuristic' looking numeral font on the rotating diver's bezel.

A splash of color is placed on the flange. Here it is yellow, and I have a feeling that it will vary with the dial color. Breitling here gives up the dial hour marker look that is becoming popular on a few of its other watches. While it looks cool, I think they may prove to be too large for optimal reading. Nevertheless, the hands and hour markers are going to be slathered in SuperLumiNova luminant. Inside the watch will be an automatic movement that has been COSC Chronometer certified. Breitling has matched the new Superocean here to its standard "port hole" rubber strap, but I think it will look really nice on a metal bracelet. This functionally styled Breitling is exactly what has been selling well for the brand lately, and I think the design really helps clean up the look of the older model, as well as helps it stand out more in the overall collection of Breitling watches.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase Watch Hands-On

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

linde werdelin oktopus moonphase
Face time with the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase watch yields good results from the superhero dive watch with a moonphase indicator from one of the edgiest upcoming brands out there today. For detailed specs on the piece you can refer to my seminal article on the Oktopus Moonphase here. The watch is water resistant to 888 meters and is the chunkiest of the Linde Werdelin line (non moonphase Oktopus watches are water resistant to 1,111 meters). It has larger-than-life hands, and a grippy rotating diver's bezel. Unique is an interesting moonphase indicator that uses newsprint style images of the moon on a moving disc. The complication is potentially quite useful as well, given the need for divers to be aware of tides, and the moon's influence over the tides.

The watch is in titanium and rose gold - that is used for the bezel, highly polished hands, and hour indicators. Really a good looking dial that is easy to read. Gold usually mixes nicely with titanium. The watch fits well via the special alligator strap. Inside the watch is a Frederic Piguet (ETA is the parent company) high-end automatic movement that is finished and modified by the highly regarded watch maker Svend Andersen. Price for the Linde Wedelin Oktopus Moonphase is 21,700, and it will be part of a limited edition of just 29 pieces.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Glashutte Original PanoMatic Counter XL Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

glashutte original
Totally unique watch complications were not exactly common this year, but Glashutte Original had a few, the most useful of which is the counter in the Glashutte Original PanoMatic Counter XL watch. Similar to the golf counter complication, this "multi purpose" counter is able to count up to 99. The left side of the 44mm wide steel case has an additional three buttons that control the digit counter window on the left of the case with the red numerals. One button is for counting up, the other is for counting back down, and the third button is to reset back to zero. The Counter complication sits quietly next to the rest of the watch. You have the PanoMatic XL watch with the time, "Panorama Date" (big date), and a prominent 12 hour chronograph. The chronograph orientation is cool using overlapping rings. With the crown, the watch appears to have many "projectiles" coming out of it, but is actually a very simple watch to operate.

Really beautifully finished in typical Glashutte Original fashion, the piece contains the in-house made automatic Caliber 96 movement that is beautifully decorated and looks amazing (as is the Glashutte Original way...). Even though emphasis on the dial is not the time, the watch face itself is not hard to read thanks to the design of the dial. The watch has a sapphire crystal on the front and back, and is water resistant to 50 meters. For what it is, the prices should be pretty reasonable. Look for it later this year.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Perrelet Diamond Flower Ceramic & Eve Watches For 2010

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

perrelet diamond flower watch
The success of the Perrelet Diamond Flower watch from last year has spurred a few new models for the 2010. The fun and beautiful watch is now in steel and ceramic, again with available diamonds. The best part of the watch is the flower segment on the dial that spins around the face when you move the watch. It is connected to the rotor on the rear of the automatic watch movement. In addition to looking cool, this system allows the movement to wind about 40% faster.

The new cases in ceramic are 40mm wide and supplemented by some new colors in the steel case. One such color is baby blue, and you can see an image of that when you click READ MORE below. Ceramic is a hot material, and it is available in black and white. The bezel treatment is interesting. You have diamonds, or a pattern of engraved Perrelet logos. There are diamonds on the dials of the models though, and the dial is a beautiful mother of pearl. Flowers being the theme of the watch, the hands, hour indicators, and segments on the dial all appear as leaves or petals. The watch is matched to a ceramic bracelet or unique textured rubber strap.

The Eve is a less expensive model. It is more straight forward in design with an easy to read dial, still in ceramic. No diamonds or mother of pearl here, just a good looking case that emphasizes the flower and feminine theme.

The Diamond Flower watches have a Perrelet P-181 automatic double rotor movement, while the Eve has a P-261 automatic movement. Both pretty impressive watches from a design and feature standpoint that will make any woman happy. Prices for the Eve watches are about $3,200, while the Diamond Flower Ceramic will range from about 4,650 - 8,400. Look for them soon.

READ MORE BELOW FOR MORE IMAGES.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Corum Miss Golden Bridge Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

corum miss golden bridge watch
The best part about Corum's Miss Golden Bridge watch is that it isn't just about the cool movement inside. The ladies' mechanical watch has an extremely elegant shape that looks as smooth as it feels. Coming in 18k red or white gold, the case is 21mm wide by 41mm tall. You can see that the case is fitted with four sapphire crystal windows on each side of the case. This is to provide a proper view into the famous Golden Bridge movement done exclusively by Corum. The thin and tall movement is really hard to make, and thankfully easy to love. The movement bridge itself is nicely hand engraved, which contrasts well with the simple polished case. While the watch is hard to read, that is something that you can say about most haute horology women's watches. Two dark-toned skeletonized hands are placed in the middle of the movement.

if the gold case and beauty of the movement at all angles isn't enough for you, drop some extra cash for the diamond studded version with 90 diamonds all over the case. Some say that diamonds sell more women's watches than interesting mechanics - but what happens when you have both as is the case here? Price for the Corum Miss Golden Bridge watch starts in the $25,000 range.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

New Rolex Explorer Watch For 2010

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Big news this year here at Basel from Rolex. Most people are impressed by the new Rolex Submariner watches in all steel, but Rolex has also updated its popular Explorer model. The classic adventure watch has been upped to 39mm wide in steel, and features a slightly new dial. The case now comes in a better steel, which is grade 904L steel (most chemical and corrosion resistant). The dial has been ever so slightly updated. Newer hour markers and larger hands are most apparent.

The Rolex in-house made calibre 3132 movement is rock-solid and is COSC Chronometer certified. The watch has a sapphire crystal of course and is water resistant to 100 meters. Character of the watch is similar to the Submariner - but it is thinner, opts for a polished bezel instead of a rotating diver's bezel, and has a different style dial. The bracelet is very similar between the two, but the Explorer does not have a glide-lock clasp. For many, the Explorer is a simple, and less expensive Rolex that feels like a fantastic fit on many wrists. Surely fans will be excited as it has been a long time since the Rolex Explorer watch has been updated.

Click on the read more link below for technical specifications of the watch.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Rado r5.5 Automatic Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

This is the next Rado watch that was designed by Jasper Morrison. He has been giving Rado new types of modernist minimalist designs recently and they have really helped the brand stay in character but also relevant in today's market. I have a special place in my heart for Rado given their work to advance ceramic watches being of the first to offer them en masse.

While many Rado watches arrive with Swiss quartz movements, this new model will feature a Swiss ETA automatic 2829A2 movement that is decorated and visible through the caseback window. Like most Rado watches, the r5.5 Automatic will be constructed mostly of ceramic (in black) and also have some black PVD coated steel and titanium (the caseback) as part of the watch's construction.

I find the dial in the TV screen shaped case to be very easy to read. it is like a Rado interpretation of a diver watch. Really easy to read and spot hour markers done in SuperLuminova luminant that contrast well with the black face. The hands are equally easy to spot making for a bold, yet uncomplicated look. Jasper did a nice job with this one. Unlike most ceramic watches that are shiny in finish, the r5.5 Automatic will have a matte finish that continues onto the bracelet (that is titanium and ceramic). Don't forget that ceramic has a really good ability to resist scratches and wear. Look for the watch soon and likely to cost several thousand dollars.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches


Poor DeWitt. They haven't been having a good last couple of years. For a while they were making some of the most interesting and beautiful luxury watches from an indy Swiss watch maker. Now they are struggling to hold on. One of their main allures was the release of very complex watches. Plus I always liked their "castle rimmed" bezels (as I liked to call them). So for this year one of their new models departs from that, and is sort of a bore if you ask me. DeWitt, without the "DeWitt," is barely... DeWitt. While the watch looks like a down market version of their typically stately looking watches, it isn't. The watch is 43mm wide in all 18k rose gold and a complex to make guilloche engraved dial. Despite the standard columns on the side of the case and the intricately made dial, I am just not wowed. A bit problem is the lack of soul. It doesn't really have a theme in my opinion. DeWitt comments that it is part of their brand evolution - which if that is true, doesn't feel like a good thing. It is true that they need less expensive watches to stay around, but I am just not sure their core clientele is going to like this watch.

By the way, the hands are way too short. What is up with that DeWitt?Inside the watch is their caliber DWT8AU automatic movement - not sure who makes that, but it isn't them most likely. The watch will be part of a limited edition of 500 pieces. I don't mean to pan the watch so badly, but in a year from now no one will even remember it. Even though it is not unattractive per se, it just has a forgettable and hard to love style. Again, it lacks soul. Maybe they will have something more exciting to show off at Basel.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Perrelet Diamond Flower Prestige Edition Watches

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches

Based on the success of last year's Perrelet's Diamond Flower Double Rotor watches for women, Perrelet comes back with more dressy versions of the decidedly sporty luxury watch (last year's had a rubber strap and was in steel). The new versions (three of a few) come with lots of diamonds (various amounts on each) as well as trendy looks. Each has a crocodile strap is either in a white gold or rose gold case that is 38mm wide. Diamonds really make these watches glitzy. The white version has over 1000 diamonds on the case and dial for a total of 10.48 carats!

The pink version has diamonds mixed with lots of rubies, while the brown version has a "chocolate" mother-of-pearl dial, with more diamonds. The lotus flower floral design on the dial is actually connected to the automatic rotor that is part of the P-181 Swiss automatic movement. As such, the "diamond flower" moves around the dial when moving around the watch. There are a good large size, but still feminine in dimension and have a great fun and beautiful design. Not sure about price, but they are going to be much more than the previous Diamond Flower watch model. One exciting version not seen yet is in ceramic, might have both black and white ceramic on the same watch. Look for these sometime in the Spring.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Art Basel Braces for Slump

Filed under: Art

The major pieces that typically define Art Basel, the world's largest art fair, are being eschewed last year in response to the largest art market plunge in nearly 20 years. If you're hoping to see the likes of Andy Warhol's work at the show in Switzerland this year, you'll have to hunt. The show opens to VIP visitors today, but you won't see much up-market art in attendance among the 300 galleries and 2,500 artists represented.

Galleries and dealers are being realistic. Average auction prices fell 76.2 percent from May 2008 to the present, according to ArtTactic, a London-based company that analyzes the market. The unexpected $93.7 million result at the Christie's contemporary art auction in May was based on lowered expectations, tainting the success. Consequently, the art on display is generally "priced to sell." A small 1964 Warhol silkscreen self-portrait is being offered for $675,000, though it would have been put up for a $1 million last year. Effectively, prices have returned to 2005 levels.

Of course, a lucky few will be able to take care of the "shadow fair" that's likely to emerge at Art Basel this year. While some will be stuck working the booths, others will strike private deals, usually involving pieces offered on consignment from collectors.

Jorg Hysek Kilada Power Reserve Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches


I received word sometime ago that Jorg Hysek is no longer an actual part of Jorg Hysek watches, and the newest line of these branded watches that arrived this year (including the pictured Kilada Power Reserve watch) are increasingly evident of this. Over time, the actually good designs that Jorg Hysek left are increasingly being morphed with unrefined derivatives like this model. The "Hysek" component just seems to be increasingly missing from the timepiece line. That isn't to say that each new watch the Hysek brand releases is a dog, but there are too many models, with too little soul. So if you are a fan, make sure to search out the models that are the most attractive.

The materials and construction of the watches are fine and totally commendable. So if you are keen on the looks, have no worries about getting one or learning more. This pictured model enjoys a 41mm wide DLC coated steel and rose gold case with sapphire crystal. The watch is meant to be sporty but chic. It succeeds in being somewhat both of them, but after the novelty factor wears off, you are left with a design that feels less than cohesive. Inside is a mechanical Swiss movement with an unannounced price that is likely over $25,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the popular watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches


My first impression of the Executive Dual Time watch from Ulysse Nardin is that the timepiece is highly uncharacteristic of the brand. That is not to say this isn't a good watch, but rather that the design feels like an incredible departure from what I am used to seeing from the brand. On closer inspection you begin to realize lots of typical Ulysse Nardin features such as the layout of functions on the dial - but overall this is something truly new from Ulysse Nardin.

The Executive Dual Time is a very modern looking watch - my concern is whether it is refined enough to be taken seriously as a luxury timepiece. One element that I've never seen before is the rectangular index inside of a round dial. The bezel is black ceramic and the 43mm case is available in steel or 18k rose gold. The dual time functionality of the watch is pretty nifty. On the left side of the case are two pushers (for advancing or subtracting hours) used to operated the dual time window. The digit in the window displays the hour in GMT time, while the main minute hand is used for the minutes for both times. The watch also has a nicely integrated big date complication. While the subsidiary seconds works fine, there is nothing particularly special about it. Powering the watch is a automatic UN caliber 24 movement.

Something about the design of the watch feels a bit down market. Not cheap, but not Ulysse Nardin grade. I realize this is an exercise is being modern for them - and maybe the images don't do the watch justice - but I just can't seem to connect with the overall design of the watch which seems to have characteristics I'd see on a watch in a display case at Macy's.

Ariel Adams publishes the popular watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Breguet Marine Royale Alarm Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches


This is probably the most aggressively styled Breguet Marine Royale watch to date, and is known as the Marine Royale Alarm for 2009. In addition to bold looks, this is the first Breguet watch in my opinion that could be characterized as a highly functional diver's watch. The main draw of the watch, aside from the lovely design and Breguet heritage, is the alarm complication. The mechanical alarm is specially designed to be optimally heard underwater - a difficult task for alarm watches. This is all done thanks to the Breguet. Cal. 519R automatic movement that uses a central hand to set the alarm - which itself has a specially calibrated chime. A window in the upper center of the dial tells you if the alarm is turned on or not. Other complications include a power reserve indicator, date, and the time of course. The large pusher located at 8 o'clock is used to turn the alarm on and off.

With a great deal of guilloche decoration throughout the watch, the 45mm wide 18k rose gold case has pushers applied with rubber for easier handling. A special claw between the crowns can be used to secure the rotating diver's bezel if necessary as to not accidentally move it. Aside from all of these handy features, the Breguet Ref. 5847BR/32/5ZU is a very capable diver with 300 meters of water resistance. In addition to the rose gold case, a white gold version is available with a dark gray colored dial. If you aren't keen on spending luxury prices for a watch with a rubber strap, you can opt for the alligator band.

With its iconic wave patterned decoration and mixture of Breguet class with diving utility, this new Marine Royale Alarm watch is easily the most interesting and notable sport oriented Breguet watch of the last few years. Price will likely be $30,000 - $50,000 when it is available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Eberhard & Co. Extra-Fort Edition Vitree Chronograph Watch

Filed under: Timepieces / Watches


You can always rely on Eberhard & Co. for classic looking watches with modern appeal. Back when Eberhard was perfecting their core designs, the attitude in the watch industry was function first design. It was about making a nice looking watch, that was first and foremost a highly legible and functional watch - before it was an impression piece. Sometimes today you have watch makers creating pure "novelties" that focus much less on being a good watch, and more on boldness or shock value. The Extra-Fort Edition Vitree Chronograph is watch with all the prowess of a classic timepiece crafted from modern materials and manufacturing practices (for a luxury Swiss watch that is).

The 39mm stainless steel case is well milled and features an anti-reflective coating applied sapphire crystal for optimal viewing. You can tell just how easy to read the dial is with its perfectly shaped and sized hands - with clearly viewable hour indicators. Eberhard traded lume for a more classic and elegant look. Inside the watch is an ETA Valjoux 7750 movement that has been modified for use in a bi-compax layout. The result is a 30 minute chronograph with a centralized date window. The movement with it's decorated rotor, is viewable thought the case back window. The watch itself has many dial and strap options. Dial colors include black (glossy and matte), white, and chocolate brown. There are many matching straps available. The use of red stitching in the pictured strap to match the hands and tachymetre scale is sporty and suave. There is also a metal bracelet available. Eberhard & Co. has always been a solid watch maker. If the design appeals to you, have no hesitation about the quality and craftsmanship of the watch itself. THe Extra-Fort Edition Vitree Chronograph watches should be available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

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