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Savile Row

Ledbury, the Better-Tailored Men's Shirt

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

Ledbury, the Better-Tailored Men's Shirt
A couple of Oxford MBAs recently founded Ledbury, a new men's shirt brand dedicated to better tailoring at the intersection of Savile Row and Ivy Style. Paul Trible and Paul Watson (above) graduated with Oxford MBAs at the height of the economic crisis, literally the day before the Lehman Bros. collapse, and decided to turn their careers from finance to fine fabric. Taking advantage of their proximity to Jermyn Street, London's traditional home of fine haberdashery, the pair learned the art of English shirt-making from one of the street's top craftsman and then fused in their hometown Southern U.S. style to create a brand based in Virginia focusing on fit, quality and style.

"When I was living in London, I would come back to the States and have difficulty finding high quality shirts that provided a tailored look," the Virginia-born Trible explains. "The big name menswear retailers made formless, boxy clothes, while luxury brands charged exorbitant prices. It seemed like there was a real need for an American shirtmaker that offered European quality, English fit and American style, all at an attainable price. We want Ledbury shirts to fit better, feel better and last longer than anything else in your closet." The Classicist recently featured a natty Ledbury chambray creation in a column on seasonal style starring the Mercedes-Benz G-Class.

Classic Cars, Fine Wine & Cool Design: The Duncan Quinn Appellation Rally

Filed under: Dining, Luxury Cars & Autos, Wine, Events, Men's Style, The Classicist

Classic Cars, Fine Wine & Cool Design: The Duncan Quinn Appellation Rally
Dashing designer Duncan Quinn, known for his roguish take on Savile Row style, is hosting the ultimate gentleman's getaway on Saturday, March 26 for those who appreciate classic cars, fine wine and gourmet meals as much as razor-sharp threads. The Duncan Quinn Appellation Rally features a fleet of wicked wheels from Manhattan's Classic Car Club – including a 1968 Porsche 911, an AC Cobra, Austin Mini (think The Italian Job), Jaguar E-Type roadster, and Ferrari Dino (above) – leaving the city for an overnight jaunt to a 2,500 acre spread in upstate New York via scenic byways and state parks in one hell of a stylish convoy.

There guests will be treated to cocktails followed by an impressive meal from celebrated chef Neil Ferguson accompanied an amazing selection of vintage wines, retiring afterwards to rustic suites. Following breakfast on Sunday also by Ferguson there will be a spot of skeet shooting before another scenic drive back to town. "Tweeds are an option, but style is a must," Quinn tells us. There are only 14 spots on the list, and several have already been filled; the price is $2,000 for singles and $3,000 per couple including the cars and everything except gas and speeding tickets. Call the designer's New York store at 212 226-7030 to reserve.

The Classicist: A Quarter Century of Style at Alan Flusser's New Custom Shop

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

The Classicist: A Quarter Century of Style at Alan Flusser's New Custom Shop
Alan Flusser, author of 2002's Dressing the Man, is our foremost arbiter elegantiarum in matters sartorial; the book remains the reigning bible of men's style. In 1981 he published his first book Making the Man and opened his first custom tailoring shop in New York City in '86; a year later his Master of the Universe wardrobe created for Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street made him an instant icon. Now on the 25th anniversary of the original's debut, Flusser is re-launching the shop with a new look in the space on E. 48th St. it has inhabited since 2002. In recent years someone else handled the day-to-day operations of the shop for Flusser though he remained available for consultations. Now he's decided to take up the reigns once again and usher in a new era of elegance.

"My original vision for the shop had always been a kind of imaginary Savile Row tailor's shop–meets Park Avenue men's club–meets Gertrude Stein for a bullshot," Flusser tells us. "In other words, an environment suffused with Old World taste and totems." As a younger and more 'downtown' crowd has increasingly taken to the merits of fine tailoring, however, Flusser felt it was time for an update, both decor and clothes-wise. Having introduced a slimmer fitting, more body conscious silhouette – the "Vanderbilt" – to his repertoire in 2008, Flusser "wanted the look of the shop to more closely reflect that sleeker sartorial idiom." Enter silver walls, alligator skin tables, 1940s leather and chrome furniture, black lacquer fittings, and of course a cocktail bar. [cont'd]

Dunning Sportswear - Ironman Meets Savile Row

Filed under: Apparel, Sports, Men's Style

Dunning Sportswear - Ironman Meets Savile Row
The famed Ironman Triathlon meets Savile Row in Dunning Sportswear, a burgeoning Canadian label making waves up North with its first two Toronto boutiques and plans to conquer the U.S. in the new year. The label's designer Ralph Dunning is a former Ironman competitor and son of a Savile Row tailor who used to design for the likes of Reebok and Saucony. His eponymous label fuses his athletic expertise with traditional menswear and high-tech fabrics, so that athletes don't need to sacrifice style for premium performance. Dunning has partnered with the best mills and facilities to ensure strict quality control; items are made by hand in Canada, not overseas, and everything is designed for year-round versatility and a wide variety of activities. The high caliber of the garments is evident in the softness and durability of the fabrics, attention to detail and perfectly tailored fit.

Their technical fabrics are engineered "from the yarn up", meaning that performance is built-in and won't wash or wear out after repeated use. The brand was founded by Toronto native and lifelong athlete Ralph Dunning, an Ironman competitor who garnered widespread acclaim in the '90s for his Rip 'n Hammer line of premium technical clothing for triathletes and cyclists. Dunning's distinctive designs featuring clean, athletic silhouettes without unnecessary embellishment are field tested and worn by famed athletes such as Craig Alexander (above), two time Ironman World Champion. "The clothes are so clearly created from an athlete's perspective," Alexander notes. "They've got the classic look with built-in performance, as well as some great cotton and wool pieces which are often what I really want after a race or training session."

The Classicist: The Year's Best Luxe Books

Filed under: Books, The Classicist


Followers of The Classicist, the weekly column devoted to timeless style, enduring elegance, and true, built-to-last luxury as opposed to mere extravagance, are familiar with the fact that we take pains to search out every season's most luxurious books and bring you exclusive glimpses. 2010 was a particularly good year for top-drawer tomes; if you've any space left in your library we suggest you stock up on the following titles which we declare to be the best of the best from those that made our grade in 2010. Featuring our favorite subjects ranging from Savile Row to classic Louis Vuitton luggage, high equestrian style to high society, and classic architecture to the perfection that is is Porsche, this is a chance to catch up on the must-have volumes you might have missed.

Topping the list are our two favorites, Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks (Abrams) and Bespoke: The Men's Style of Savile Row (Rizzoli), both dealing with icons of luxe style, the first a legendary French luggage firm, the second a street synonymous with the world's best men's tailoring. Can you imagine anything better than a suite of Vuitton trunks full of Savile Row suits? Didn't think so. While you're busy assembling a collection these books are the next best thing. Men's style also comes into play in two other titles on our can't-miss list, the bible of Ivy League style Take Ivy (powerHouse) and We Want Miles: Miles Davis vs. Jazz (Skira Rizzoli). They're more closely related than you might think; the jazz legend had a not-so-hidden passion for preppy finery in his early years, while Take Ivy's title is a reference to jazz.


Duncan Quinn's Stylish Den of Iniquity at Art Basel

Filed under: Apparel, Luxury Cars & Autos, Events, Art, Men's Style, Luxury Shopping


Dashing designer Duncan Quinn, known for his roguish take on Savile Row style, is giving Miami's Art Basel a glamour injection courtesy of an ultra-cool pop-up boutique (above) opening today. Following the success of his lavish space at last year's festival complete with an indoor croquet pitch, this year's digs in the Design District's Moore Building are a veritable dandy's den of stylish iniquity, complete with a full-fledged casino, vintage sports cars, cocktails, a screening room showing classic Michael Caine films, and of course plenty of razor sharp threads.

Designed with a Casino Royale theme that would make James Bond himself hot under the collar, guests can take advantage of a bespoke lounge with Dormeuil fabrics, an installation of Ruby couture motorcycle helmets from France, cocktails from the mixologists at the Florida Room, and several limited edition items including the new line of Duncan Quinn sunglasses, polo shirts, jackets and more. Classic cars and motorbikes on display in the space include a 1954 Jaguar XK120, vintage Ducatis and Triumphs and Dime City Cycles' "Brass Café" Racer.


The Classicist: The Ultimate Guide to Savile Row Style

Filed under: Apparel, Books, Men's Style, The Classicist, Luxury Shopping


When James Sherwood's brilliant book on bespoke tailoring called The London Cut came out in 2007, to accompany a Savile Row exhibition at Palazzo Pitti in Florence, we regretted only that it was in softcover and such a small format. Now Rizzoli has rectified that with a suitably statuesque volume by Sherwood expanding on the subject, lavishly illustrated and encyclopedic in scope. Bespoke: The Men's Style of Savile Row begins with the opening of Henry Poole & Co. in 1806 and follows the illustrious history of London's custom tailoring tradition. Famous adherents of 'The Row' through the years from Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, the Duke of Windsor and Winston Churchill to latter-day dandies like Prince Charles, Mick Jagger and David Beckham are also discussed.

From its rather humble beginnings Sherwood discusses Savile Row's role in tailoring for the sporting set, the military and Royalty, the phenomenal influence the houses have had in the sartorial style of the silver screen - where else would James Bond get his threads? - the Row's evolution as "bespoke" was challenged by the mod rock & roll fashion revolution, and its embrace of fashion-forward newcomers like Tommy Nutter, Richard James and Ozwald Boateng, leading a revival of an art form that looked at one time to be doomed to obsolescence, now flourishing in its 200th year.

The style of each of the street's premier tailors is presented in detail along with the immeasurable impact Savile Row style has had on the work of international designers like Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, and Tom Ford, who contributed a foreword to the book. "English gentlemen's tailoring, and in particular the tailoring of Savile Row, really set the standard for the way the stylish 20th-century man dressed," Ford writes. "This English style, in fact, became the international style for well-dressed men all over the world, and this influence has not waned even in today's more casual world. I suppose that when it comes to men's clothes I am an Anglophile and if I did not design my own men's collection, I would have virtually my entire wardrobe made on Savile Row."

Frosdick of London Offers World's Most Expensive Bespoke Wardrobe

Filed under: Apparel, Luxury Cars & Autos, Men's Style


Frosdick of London, makers of the beautiful bespoke safari boots we wrote about back in April, is offering a unique opportunity to acquire "the most expensive wardrobe in the history of tailoring" - complete with a custom luxury car to match - for $1 million. The one-of-a-kind "Million-Dollar Dandy" package includes 14 bespoke Savile Row suits, made from the purchaser's choice of the world's finest fabrics; 28 custom-tailored dress shirts; 28 custom-made silk ties; and 14 pairs of bespoke shoes and boots created from exotic leathers. The suits, shirts and ties will all be handmade by Henry Poole of Savile Row, the famed tailor favored by British royalty. The shoes and boots will be crafted by another royal favorite, London's Schnieder of Clifford Street. Complementing the more formal attire will be a selection of elegant smoking jackets and dressing gowns.

The latter will be made by Prince Charles' tailor Turnbull & Asser, enhanced by discreet accents in diamonds and precious metals, along with the Million-Dollar Dandy crest. All measurements and subsequent fittings prior to actual completion will be carried out in London. Frosdick of London will then commission the Queen of England's nephew, furniture designer Viscount David Linley, to craft a bespoke wardrobe in precious woods to house it all. Finally, the Million-Dollar Dandy will receive a bespoke motorcar hand built by Bristol, the last wholly British-owned luxury car builder in existence. The truly unique vehicles are not sold through any dealers or distributors, maintaining the note of ultimate exclusivity conveyed by the custom clothing. Email david@frosdickoflondon.com for more info.

[via JustLuxe]

The Classicist: E. Tautz, A Sartorial Star Reborn on Savile Row

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist


E. Tautz & Sons, the venerable fine men's tailoring firm founded by Edward Tautz in London in 1867, has been resurrected by Savile Row's Norton & Sons to carry on its impeccable sartorial standards in a new century. Tautz began as a sporting tailor and introduced many innovations such as waterproof tweeds and knickerbocker breeches for the hunting set. By 1897 Tautz had been granted a Royal Warrant from the King of Italy, The King and Queen of Spain and The Emperor of Austria. Winston Churchill placed his first order with the firm in 1895 and continued to be a valued customer for the next 20 years; later on Tautz dressed such natty notables as David Niven and Cary Grant, and in 1968 the company was incorporated into the larger Savile Row firm of Norton & Sons and ceased to be a standalone label.

As Norton's owner Patrick Grant explained to Style Salvage, though quality on the level of Tautz's offerings doesn't come cheap, fine tailoring in the bespoke tradition pays for itself in the long run. "Tailoring is an incredibly efficient way of buying clothes cost wise and you really get what you pay for," he notes. "You are getting tremendous value for money if you go to a tailor and it just so happens that [Tautz is] in the middle of a community of the best tailors in the world. 'The only name in your suit should be your own' is the old adage and that is a nice way of thinking about it." Of course, custom made isn't for everyone, but Tautz is the next best thing as it shares many of the same tailoring methods with Norton's Savile Row workshops.

"We champion the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear," reads Tautz's mission statement. "We adhere to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VIII said it best. 'Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." FIne fabrics including the world's best wools and cashmere are a cornerstone of the Tautz style. Prices for Tautz's new ready-to-wear collection start at $300 for cotton sport shirts, $600 for knitwear, $1,500 for outerwear and $1,700 for sport coats. To begin with the collection will be sold in the U.S. exclusively through Barneys New York.

The Classicist: Dunhill Custom Tailoring for Spring & Summer

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

dunhill bespoke
Back in March we reported that London luxury goods firm Dunhill was opening a new custom tailoring floor of its Madison Avenue flagship store in New York, the first of its kind in the U.S. Now we have more details of their custom tailoring program, featuring a selection of over 250 of the finest British and Italian cloths. Clients can create suits, jackets, trousers and shirts solely designed for their individual lifestyle or demands. Overseen by Bruno Cosentino, Dunhill's resident master tailor who personally hand makes every bespoke item, the space is entirely dedicated to the brand's exceptional tailoring service. A Dunhill custom suit undergoes 165 separate, meticulous operations performed by skilled artisans, with some 200 individual pieces going into making a jacket alone. Each jacket is expertly constructed using a floating canvas front allowing it to mold to the body over time. The Custom program offers a choice of two cuts – the House's signature St James' block, inspired by the archetypal Savile Row suit with several distinctive Dunhill touches, or the slimmer Belgravia fit defined by a suppressed waist, built up chest and sharper shoulders.

A suit can further be personalized by straight or slanted pockets, center or side vents and notch or peak lapels. Distinctive Dunhill silhouettes are enhanced by the introduction of a lightly 'roped' shoulder providing a typically English outline. This additional mark of luxury raises the crown of the sleeve slightly, ensuring the purest of lines from shoulder to sleeve. High performance fabrics are available including a 3-ply high twist super 130's wool and silk fabric in a range of blues and greys. The classic Dunhill custom blazer can be created in the finest of Camdeboo mohair (above) which is lightweight, boasts great performance properties and travels beautifully, keeping the wearer warm in the cold but cool in the heat. Each Dunhill custom item will be completed and presented within two months. Once the design of the pattern is complete, it then becomes part of the Alfred Dunhill archives, kept in reserve for returning clients seeking additional bespoke services. Dunhill's custom tailoring tradition includes a tuxedo made for Truman Capote to wear at his infamous Black & White Ball in the 1960s as well as bespoke suits made for Frank Sinatra.

A Video Tour of Bespoke British Shoemaker John Lobb

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style, Video

At John Lobb, one of Britain's oldest and last remaining bespoke shoemakers, little has changed since the firm was founded in 1849. Preferring to do everything by hand, the storied London firm declines to use machines to make its painstaking production process any easier. Bootmaker to British royalty since the 1860s and fashioner of what is arguably the world's finest men's footwear, Lobb received its first Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales in 1863. Aside from sovereigns and heads of state, Lobbs have long been the favored footwear of fops including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Hugh Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis. In this video produced by London's Guardian newspaper, Lobb Chairman and Managing Director John Hunter Lobb, great-grandson of the firm's founder, gives a guided tour behind the scenes, unlocking the door to "a lost world of craftsmanship." You'll never want to wear ready-made shoes again.

EXCLUSIVE: St. Regis Hotels & Resorts Head Paul James' Ten Essential Luxuries

Filed under: Luxury Travel & Hotels, Timepieces / Watches, Books, Men's Style, 10 Luxuries


Paul James is the Global Brand Leader for St. Regis Hotels & Resorts and The Luxury Collection, Starwood's two world-renowned, luxury hospitality brands. Under this role James is responsible for providing the overall strategic and creative direction for St. Regis, the legendary hotel brand committed to excellence and bespoke service at the best addresses in the world, and The Luxury Collection, a glittering ensemble of one-of-a-kind destinations and indigenous experiences designed for the global explorer. Over the last year, James has been instrumental in creating a long term strategy of meaningful growth for both St. Regis and The Luxury Collection brands in the world's most enviable destinations. Since taking on his current role, St. Regis and The Luxury Collection have successfully debuted properties in new markets including Atlanta, Indonesia, Mexico, Moscow, Peru, and Scotland. Over the next five years, James will oversee their continued expansion with the opening of properties in Abu Dhabi, Bermuda, Buenos Aires, Cairo, China, Japan, Jordan, Peru, and more.

James has more than 20 years experience in hospitality, serving most recently as Starwood's Regional Director of Sales & Marketing, NW Europe. In that role, he was in charge of the sales and marketing teams of 35 hotels in nine countries across seven brands, with revenues in excess of $1 billion. This fall, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts will continue its extraordinary global expansion by opening four world-class properties in Puerto Rico, Osaka, Bangkok and Lhasa, solidifying its position and the leader in luxury hospitality and doubling its footprint in just two years. This global growth will expand the brand's footprint to include the Caribbean with The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort in Puerto Rico, and continuing its growth in Asia with The St. Regis Osaka, The St. Regis Lhasa Resort and The St. Regis Bangkok. Offering the St. Regis' iconic bespoke services and amenities, unrivalled luxury and refined elegance, the spectacular new properties join the brand's distinguished portfolio of quintessential addresses around the world. In the gallery are images of James' essential luxuries; continued below you'll find his explanations about what makes them a must.


A Tribute to the Sharp-Suited Gentleman

Filed under: Apparel, Books, Men's Style

sharp suits book
The history of men's suits, that indispensable item of sartorial armour, is examined in Eric Musgrave's excellent new coffee table book Sharp Suits. Exploring the evolution of the modern suit over the past century, the book is organized thematically in chapters that examine the single-breasted suit, the striped suit, the Dormeuil suit and more, looking at each decade's developments in turn. It features an introduction by Richard James, one of the more recent arrivals on London's famed Savile Row who bridges the gap between traditional tailor and designer. Sharp Suits also highlights the iconic suiting styles of entertainers through the years including the Beatles, John Travolta, James Brown, Warren Beatty, Al Pacino and Franz Ferdinand, in addition to well-known dandies from the Duke of Windsor to David Bowie.

Hardy Amies Returns to Its Savile Row Roots

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

hardy amies store
Hardy Amies, the firm named for the British couturier who opened a shop on Savile Row in 1946 and went on to design gowns for the Queen of England, is returning to its men's tailoring roots. The move comes after the company nearly went bankrupt in 2008 following an ill-timed expansion into ready-to-wear women's clothing and accessories, while the original bespoke business was neglected. On Monday the company announced that in a bid to avoid further financial problems it was returning to its founder's original purpose, and wwill now concentrate on being "the quintessential English tailor" providing fine tweeds and bespoke suits to well-heeled gentlemen. A bespoke suit, the company said, would start from about $5,400. The company's new owners are the investment arm of the £8 billion global trading company run by brothers Victor and William Fung. Sir Hardy Amies himself died in 2003 at the robust age of 93.

EXCLUSIVE: Fine English Company Founder Benedict Wormald's Ten Essential Luxuries

Filed under: Apparel, Cigars, Luxury Cars & Autos, Writing Instruments, Men's Style, 10 Luxuries

Click above to see Benedict Wormald's 10 Essential Luxuries

The Fine English Company is a recently launched line of luxurious furniture, luggage and lifestyle accessories reminiscent of Britain's colonial past with a contemporary flair, founded by former financial consultant Benedict Wormald. The company was born out of a desire to trade in his City lifestyle in London and turn a lifelong passion for classic British design and antiquities into a business. The Fine English Company's products combine traditional craftsmanship with detailing of exotic animal skins, rare and native woods and veneers to create a range of collectible and desirable objects betokening the best of bespoke British luxury. "I am a great devotee of simplicity and pared down restraint in luxuries," Wormald tells Luxist, "simple items that are executed very well. Luxury to me is not necessarily about adornment or precious materials for vastly inflated prices. I demand a very tactile and aesthetic element from the things I deem to be 'above par'. There is a very definite trend for this that we are seeing in bespoke commissions where people are making much more considered purchases and investing in the construction and execution of the item and not just materials."

Wormald is very passionate about exquisitely made goods and those that are true to the term bespoke, which is increasingly taken in vain. "If you choose to go bespoke from an early age, the lifetime cost is more than borne out in comparison to a larger number of machine made and mass produced brand led products," he notes. "I only wish someone had told me that aged 18! I have Savile Row suits that are as good now at 15 years old as they were new and a good pair of bespoke shoes, a made-to-measure shirt and a bespoke suit will feel more comfortable than any other choice all day and every day - suits only irritate if they don't fit properly and a good suit and shoes will help your posture and the way you comport yourself." Wormald points out that "bespoke need not necessarily be expensive. The power is coming back to the customer to demand something different, something unique to treasure for generations." In the gallery are images of his essential luxuries; continued below you'll find his fulsome explanations about what makes them a must.

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