Reims

The ancient house that rests above Cattier champagne's cellars in Chigny-Les-Roses, France, is set back about forty feet from Rue Dom Perignon. Finding a street number is difficult – the only obvious identifying mark is the sign on the front fence that says "Chien Méchant." Not to worry: On a recent visit, a guide gave assurances in a heavy French accent that "the dog is dead."

The Cattier family, which now produces over one million bottles of champagne per year, purchased the house in the 1960s. Today, its windows are shuttered and it is only used to receive guests on rare occasions. The real prize is buried far below the chalky soil – a vast network of naturally air-conditioned cellars where Cattier's finest vintages gain their character. In a garage next to the house, a narrow spiral staircase wends its way some 30 meters into the ground. There, the temperature quickly drops from the balmy 25C temperature outside down to a chilly 8C, the still air packed with 90% humidity.

The cellars are about 150 years old, relics of the early days of champagne making. During World War II, they served as part of a vast underground network of shelters throughout the greater Reims area; every few feet, a patch of bricks still bears the burns of candles used to illuminate the long corridors when electricity went out during air raids. These days, the cellars shimmer with the golden bottles of Cattier's flagship champagne, Armand de Brignac.

The city of Reims, France, has long been known as the center of the country's storied Champagne region. These days, a noisy construction project snarls traffic and plays havoc with downtown hotels and restaurants meaning there's never been a better time for visiting oenophiles to stay at L'Assiette Champegnoise, a quaint hotel on the outskirts.

Reims is home to all five of last month's Luxist Award nominees in the best sparkling wine/champagne category Krug , Dom Perignon, Pommery, Louis Roederer and Veuve Clicquot. L'Assiette Champegnoise is mere minutes by car from the headquarters of these houses and others.

Built on an old Norman estate, L'Assiette consistently ranks among the best hotels in the area. Cruise through the main gate and the first thing you will see are the twin chimneys rising from the main building, a turreted chateau brimming with old world charm. Behind it lie the hotels 55 rooms and four acres of greenery. The back yard, shaded by century-old trees and strewn with overstuffed chair-pillows, makes for an ideal place to relax with a good book and a flute of champagne from the intimate bar in the lobby.

Visitors needn't venture into Reims for dinner, as the best restaurant in the area is on-site: a two-star Michelin restaurant helmed by chef Arnaud Lallement. In good weather, the aperitif is served outside on the deck; in any case, the intimate dining room and its large windows bring diners closer to nature. For those who would prefer an even more local experience, the restaurant offers room service as well.

Old-fashioned appeal doesn't mean an aversion to modern amenities: each room at L'Assiette offers a television, a telephone, and wireless internet. For such an elegant and conveniently located hotel, the prices are reasonable, starting at 165 Euros per night. The champagne, however, is not included.

The history of renowned French champagne house Veuve Clicquot is told in a fascinating new book by Tilar J. Mazzeo, who reveals the young widow who brought it to fame and fortune. The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It is the story of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, who was "a young witness to the dramatic events of the French Revolution and a new widow during the chaotic years of the Napoleonic Wars."

After her husband Francois' death, Barbe-Nicole, 27, defied convention by assuming control of their fledgling family wine business. With much bravery and good fortune, against all odds and through "dizzying political and financial reversals", she became one of the world's first great businesswomen and one of the richest women of her time. Pictured above is her estate the Hotel du Marc in Reims.

A legend in her native France, Barbe-Nicole's story is not well known abroad. Mazzeo has uncovered many fascinating details about the grande dame of champagne, including the following:

• By her late 30s, Barbe-Nicole was one of the richest women in France, with annual sales of more than $30 million per year. She's credited with having taken champagne from marginal to mainstream and making it synonymous with style.

• As the Napoleonic Wars wound down, Barbe-Nicole risked her entire fortune and ran the blockade with 10,000 bottles of her most precious vintage, positioning herself to corner the huge Russian market the moment it re-opened. She was there weeks ahead of her competitors, selling her champagne for $100 a bottle to the celebrating Russians, becoming famous practically overnight.

• Barbe-Nicole invented champagne-making techniques that shaved months off production time and are still used today. Thanks to her employees' loyalty and a shrewd profit-sharing plan, she kept her method secret for almost a decade, solidifying her market dominance.