MensSuits

The Classicist: Haspel's 100 Years in Style

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist

2009 marks the 100th anniversary of a true American sartorial institution: Haspel, makers of the classic seersucker suit that has come to epitomize elegance in the summer months for dapper gentlemen from coast to coast. The company's history dates back to New Orleans in 1909 when haberdasher Joseph Haspel began making suits in lightweight fabrics, allowing men to remain dressed to the nines even in oppressive climes.

After passing out of family hands for nearly two decades and being allowed to stagnate somewhat, the brand is now being revived on the eve of its centenary by Joseph's great-granddaughter Laurie Haspel Aronson. She is giving the label a much-needed facelift, introducing new clothing lines and updating its storied styles while remaining true to her ancestor's values of maintaining an elegant appearance no matter the conditions.

It was those values married to quality workmanship and classic style that led to Haspel's being favored by the likes of presidents Calvin Coolidge, Harry Truman and Franklin D. Roosevelt, as well as dapper movie stars like Humphrey Bogart, Gregory Peck, who wore Haspel seersucker in To Kill A Mockingbird (1962), and Cary Grant, who sported Haspel suits in Charade (1963), while becoming a staple of Ivy League style on college campuses everywhere.

Gallery: 100 Years of Haspel

Tags: Cary Grant, CaryGrant, Gregory Peck, GregoryPeck, Harry Truman, HarryTruman, Haspel, Hunting, Ivy League, IvyLeague, Mens suits, MensSuits, New Orleans, NewOrleans, Seersucker

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New "Bespoke" Ruling: A Blow to Savile Row?

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

There's quite a row on Savile Row over the UK Advertising Standards Authority's brand new ruling that suits which are not entirely handmade may now be sold as "bespoke." It has horrified some Savile Row stalwarts who've long fought to protect their trade from such encroachments; late last year tailor's guild the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) trademarked the term "Savile Row Bespoke" to prevent parvenus from taking unfair advantage. According to the SRBA's guidelines, to qualify as bespoke a suit must be crafted from a choice of at least 2,000 fabrics and its construction requires at least 50 hours of hand-stitching.

However, SRBA board member Anda Rowland, owner of storied 100-year-old Row house Anderson & Sheppard, tells Luxist she is taking the philosophical view. While lamenting the ruling's implied lack of respect for Britain's tailoring trade, to her way of thinking a fellow who would be content with a faux-Row suit merely made-to-measure was "never a true bespoke customer in the first place" she tells us, while any connoisseur "will ultimately be able to spot the difference between true bespoke tailoring and incorrectly labeled imitations." In the meantime, made-to-measure garments, no matter what they're sold as, can continue to serve their proper purpose: "providing a bridge from ready-to-wear to bespoke."

For those seeking sartorial enlightenment, Rowland notes the SRBA has launched a website, savilerowbespoke.com, to help them on their path to proper tailoring. In addition, when Anderson & Sheppard moved into its new premises at 32 Old Burlington Street, Rowland says, "we opened up our workrooms especially to confront the confusion that potential customers might have over the increasing number of terms being used to describe made-to-measure... Since moving, we have been welcoming more and more first time customers who have done research through word of mouth, reputable press and the Internet and therefore have a very good idea of why they have come to us." No mere ruling no matter how barmy will change that.

Pictured above is Savile Row maverick Ozwald Boateng. See the gallery for more.

Gallery: Savile Row Style

Tags: Anderson Sheppard, AndersonSheppard, Bespoke, England, London, Mens suits, MensSuits, Ozwald Boateng, OzwaldBoateng, Savile Row, Savile Row Bespoke Association, SavileRow, SavileRowBespokeAssociation, tailoring

Corneliani 2006 Spring collection

by Gustad Mody (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Apparel

Corneliani, makers of fine Italian suits, is set to open their first shop-in-shop in Saks Fifth Avenue in New York this fall. These fashionable needle workers are known for their avant-garde fabrics and cuts. Seeing the sea as the most important element has inspired their 2006 colors with the crystal clear depths of turquoises and emerald greens. From ivory to mother-of-pearl and up to slate gray, sophisticated elegance is conveyed through the stretch of whites, honeys and grays. With 150 fabrics and 250 exclusive patterns at your disposal, your custom measured suit will be cut and sewn in Mantova, Italy to be delivered in 3 weeks.