John Lobb

The Classicist: Is the Royal Warrant Losing Its Lustre?

A recent decision by two venerable British brands to drop the Royal Warrants from their packaging has occasioned some hand-wringing in the UK over whether the much-coveted distinction has lost its lustre. The Classicist calls it a tempest in a Royal Doulton teacup; read on to find out why. Only three royals are entitled to grant warrants – the Queen of England, the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales – to firms who supply their royal requisites for at least five years, though most warrant holders have ties to Britain's royal family dating back several decades or more. Of course, Prince William will one day be granting his own.

Holders of the Royal Warrant include many of our favorite luxury brands – Asprey, Aston Martin, Bentley, Barbour, Burberry, Fortnum & Mason, Gieves & Hawkes, Holland & Holland, Hunter Boots, Jaguar, John Lobb, Johnnie Walker, Land Rover, Laphroaig, Lock & Co., Swaine Adeney Brigg, Smythson, Tanqueray and Turnbull & Asser – along with a host of lesser names, such as After Eight mints and Jacob's Cream Crackers. It is the latter two that have now decided to do without their warrants – though no insult is intended to the royal family, as it was when former Harrods owner Mohamed al Fayed burned his last year. That coupled with the results of a new survey showing that only 13% of respondents thought that warrants make any difference have called their usefulness into question, the London Guardian reports.

However, "It's hard to say that interest in royal warrants is conclusively on the wane," Vicky Bullen, chief executive of Coley Porter Bell, tells the paper, "because there is no existing data with which to make a comparison. However, consumers' apparent indifference to the royal warrants has surprised us. We can only surmise there could be a number of factors at play." Said factors, Bullen says, include "that we live in a less deferential society in which the royal family enjoys less prestige and political support." That of course is not exactly new, though the upcoming Royal Wedding may give them a boost. [cont'd]

Gallery: Holders of the Royal Warrant

Tags: Asprey, Aston Martin, Barbour, Bentley, British royalty, Burberry, Fortnum and Mason, Harrods, Holland Holland, Hunter Boots, Jaguar, John Lobb, Johnnie Walker, Land Rover, luxury brands, Mohamed al Fayed, Prince of Wales, Prince William, Queen of England, royal family, Royal Warrant, Royal Wedding, royalty, Smythson, Swaine Adeney Brigg, Tanqueray, UK

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A Video Tour of Bespoke British Shoemaker John Lobb

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style, Video

At John Lobb, one of Britain's oldest and last remaining bespoke shoemakers, little has changed since the firm was founded in 1849. Preferring to do everything by hand, the storied London firm declines to use machines to make its painstaking production process any easier. Bootmaker to British royalty since the 1860s and fashioner of what is arguably the world's finest men's footwear, Lobb received its first Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales in 1863. Aside from sovereigns and heads of state, Lobbs have long been the favored footwear of fops including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Hugh Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis. In this video produced by London's Guardian newspaper, Lobb Chairman and Managing Director John Hunter Lobb, great-grandson of the firm's founder, gives a guided tour behind the scenes, unlocking the door to "a lost world of craftsmanship." You'll never want to wear ready-made shoes again.

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Tags: bespoke, John Lobb, London, mens shoes, mens style, Savile Row, shoemaker, shoes, UK

John Lobb Alligator Monk-Strap Shoes

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style

John Lobb, bootmaker to British royalty since the 1860s and fashioner of what is arguably the world's finest men's footwear, is offering an ultra-luxurious pair of made-to-measure alligator double monk-strap shoes as part of its Spring 2010 collection. The shoes are made from naturally aged Australian salt water alligator yielding a thick, extremely durable hide that will age better than lesser skins. Glove leather lining, a hand-applied finish, leather soles plied together via a painstaking "sunk by stones, soaked in water" process, and hand-stitched boar fur threads distinguish this as footwear par excellence. A matching billfold is also available. Lobb, founded in 1849, received its first Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales in 1863. Aside from sovereigns and heads of state, Lobbs have long been the favored footwear of fops including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Hugh Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis.

Tags: alligator, exotic leather, ExoticLeather, John Lobb, JohnLobb, UK

The Classicist: On Equestrian Style

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Decor, Sports, Books, The Classicist

Followers of my sporadic style posts here have probably noticed certain threads running throughout; anglophilia, certainly, but also an affinity for all things equestrian-related: the polo matches staged by the likes of Veuve Clicquot and Mercedes-Benz; the Royal Ascot Races; riding boots by John Lobb of London; leathergoods by Swaine Adeney Brigg; and even classic sporting art. All these elements and more come together beautifully in Vicky Moon's new book Equestrian Style: Home Design, Couture, and Collections from the Eclectic to the Elegant, due out this week from Clarkson Potter.

It's a magnificent, much-needed extension of the horsey lifestyle portrayed in Hunt Country Style, the book I wrote about back in April. Moon divides her volume into different facts of the equestrian experience: In the Field, On the Farm, At the Track, In the Ring, On the Move, and Down the Road, focusing on all facets of horsiness and everything that goes along with it. The emphasis is on authenticity, not affectation; she barely mentions Ralph Lauren for instance except in the context of the actual polo team he fields.

Gallery: Equestrian Style

Racing tropy from Bonhams Sporting Sale.

Tags: Bonhams, equestrian, Equestrian Style, EquestrianStyle, foxhunting, Hermes, horseracing, horses, Hunt Country, HuntCountry, John Lobb, JohnLobb, polo, Ralph Lauren, RalphLauren, sporting art, SportingArt, Tattersalls, Vicky Moon, VickyMoon

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John Lobb's Luxe New Shoes and Boots for Fall

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Shoes, Men's Style

The fall line from John Lobb, bootmaker to British royalty since the 1860s and fashioner of what is arguably the world's finest men's footwear, isn't due to arrive in stores for another couple of weeks - but we have an exclusive preview for you. Lobb, founded in 1849, received its first Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales in 1863. Aside from sovereigns and heads of state, Lobbs have long been the favored footwear of fops including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Hugh Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis.

Handmade from the finest quality full grain leathers, Lobb shoes "combine heritage, tradition and modernity" with distinction and elegance. The new ready-to-wear line features classic oxfords and monk straps, jodphur boots, riding boots (like the Hellesdon model in tan brown shire calf pictured here) and suede chukka boots, some available in a striking crimson red. Of course if money is no object, the company (which is now owned by Hermes) also offers bespoke services. See the gallery for more.

Gallery: John Lobb's Fall Line