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Derek Lam

The Fashion Statement: The Rise of Flatforms

Filed under: The Fashion Statement


After a long run, the precarious platform shoes we've seen for much of the last decade are giving a new, flatter platform. Or, as I'm calling them-flatforms.

If fashion soothsayers have names like Marc Jacobs, Fendi and Derek Lam, platforms here to stay-in fact, we can expect to see them through fall 2011 (Issey Miyake, above)-but gone are the high arches and their impossible heights. In their place are gentle graduated slopes full of the promise of easy promenades that don't give up much of the stature of their predecessors. That's not to say, these flatter versions are without danger. A fall show in New York featured flatform combat boots that made at least two female models and one male model fall flat on their faces.

By and large, though, this spring designers are delivering walkable wedges with no shortage of style. Marc Jacobs' platforms bring us back to the '70s with their rainbow colors adorning the arches of the shoe. Fendi confounds modern architectural rules with platforms that seem to come in three separate sections-a heel in emerald green, a mid-shoe in brown and a toe in natural wood with a bright blue strap. Derek Lam is probably the most traditional-basic Maryjanes in camel opened-toe or off-white closed toe upon natural-grained wood.

RSVIP: Notes from the Tents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week--Part I

Filed under: Apparel, Events

backstage at tommy hilfigerThere are tents within tents during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, curtained-off rooms backstage and in secret hallways, where models whip their clothes off and change into their first look; where they have their hair snipped and sprayed and teased; where Gwen Stefani's two little boys, Kingston and Zuma, were able to play in private; and, of course, the Diane von Furstenberg-designed "Star Room," where Mercedes-Benz served miniature cupcakes, fresh sushi, and fine cheese to swells.

The sexiest scene RSVIP noted was backstage at the Tommy Hilfiger show on Sunday, right, where the well-known new youth models, Arizona and Jordan, among many others, had their hair wetted as jugs of water were poured over their heads into a large plastic trash can backstage before they began drying their own tresses.

Derek Lam at NY Fashion Week: Fall 2011 Collection (With Video)

Filed under: Apparel

Derek Lam's Fall 2011 Collection which was presented at NY Fashion Week this morning was nothing short of glamorous.

"In this collection, I have used new combinations to make clothes that look fresh, fluid, weightless, yet also appropriate for the Fall/Winter season," says Lam. "Some of the new combinations are logical: sleeves and backs of heavier weight clothing are made of slippery cloths. The usual layering of clothes are lightened, the arm slips easily under coats; the bulk is eliminated where you don't want it."

There were tunics in flannel, doubleface jersey and military gabardine that were combined with liquid twills and laundered poplins on bottom. Dresses were sewn with jersey bodices attached to wool felt skirts and vice versa so they look sleek and also tailored. Evening dresses had leather bodices, with laundered satin or poplin full skirts, for a kind of raw and casual glamour.

"I think that Derek Lam is one of the great American designers who has given American Fashion Week something very unique and sophisticated," Andre Leon Talley, Contributing Editor to Vogue, told Luxist backstage after the show. "The clothes are modern and they give modernity a new definition. They are clothes for women who work, who are grown up and who are refined. The sense of luxury of fabric is extraordinary. The glace leva jean skirt is one of my favorites. A varsity stripe on a trouser with a red leather car coat is wonderful and is the way women want to dress. I think he is exceptional. I am always more and more impressed each season with his work and I think this is one of his most outstanding moments in his career."

Derek Lam Daphnee Booties

Filed under: Shoes

Taking various shades of Fall and Winter's seemingly favorite color, the Daphnee Booties by Derek Lam ($469) fuses style and comfort. The platform sole adds height without placing pressure on the balls of your feet. You could virtually wear these throughout the day and walk around without ending your day with painful feet.

And as for style, the Daphnee has unexpected touches while maintaining an understated and classic look. Set in dark chocolate leather with contrasting beige felt and a cuffed topline, Lam's versatile Booties would be ideal as your daily go-to comfort shoe. If you'd rather even more minimal look, the Daphnee is also available in black.

Have tips or suggestions? Contact me @marsha712

Derek Lam Albertine Leather Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Derek Lam Albertine Leather ClutchThe Derek Lam Albertine Leather Clutch is a fabulously modern purse, but perhaps it was inspired by the abstract architecture of Vienna's Albertina.

We love the diagonal line the zipper-edged flap creates in a gleaming goldtone, adding edge to this otherwise quite simple black clutch. This 10"W X 5½"H X 1½"D bag is made with soft Italian calf leather and is lined in a pretty peach tone. The zipper isn't the closure; it's a front pocket. The purse actually opens and closes with a magnetic snap.

Asymmetry is best when it's balanced, and this purse achieves that beautifully with a soft calf leather tassel banded in gold. It may just be a rectangular black clutch, but this purse will definitely turn heads.

The Derek Lam Albertine Leather Clutch is available from Saks Fifth Avenue for $690.00.

The Fashion Statement: Top Ten Trends for Spring 2011

Filed under: The Fashion Statement


New York fashion week at Lincoln Center is a wrap and we've tallied up the results. In a word? '70s. Want more words? Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver.

Fashion weeks in London, Paris and Milan have yet to dictate the top ten trends of Spring of next year, but here's an early take.

SHORTS: Everyone, and we mean everyone, showed shorts in their spring collections. Whether short and roomy at Badgley Mischka or long and blouse-y at Thakoon or almost Capri-length at Ralph Lauren, shorts are going to be the get for spring.

STUDIO 54: There were so much '70s and early '80s references this week, I could hear Charlie commercials in my head. Halston, famed in that era, showed drape-y colorful maxi dresses and caftans that could have been lifted straight out of the archives. Marc Jacobs showed brightly colored pantsuits and full-length halter dresses.

PRINT MADNESS: Spring is traditionally all about florals. Jason Wu's breezy blouses had cut-out posies. DNKY had tiny flower prints on youthful dresses. Michael Angel went the painterly route with a collection of beautiful multi-colored frocks.

FEMININE VERSUS MASCULINE: Jill Stuart typified the feminine push/masculine pull with high-water tuxedos followed by flouncy, frilly dresses accessorized with masculine belts. The juxtaposition was stunning.

CANDY COLORS: Michael Kors trotted out fuchsia and green. Rebecca Taylor favored orange. Cynthia Rowley went for yellow. Candy colors ruled the day.

Derek Lam Isla Fringed Bag, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Derek Lam Isla Fringed HandbagNot all eye-catching bags have to be flashy or bright, this Isla Fringed Bag by Derek Lam grabs attention with its odd shape and plethora of fringe flowing off the bottom. The design is a basic rectangle that's covered in studs (the way they're placed they look like they're bursting through the leather), a unique wristlet strap with a looped wristlet closure, and of course lengthy brown leather fringes for lots of swing and movement. Brown calf leather exterior and a cotton interior lining round out this casual statement bag. $1,190

Derek Lam Evie Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Derek Lam Evie ClutchThe Derek Lam Evie Clutch is a creative and complex take on classic.

The shape of this 11"W X 6½"H X 1½"D flap clutch may be the same as always, but the rest of the details make it a whole new bag. The surface is crafted in a fine Italian pebble leather and the edges are laced gently with leather strands. The intricate goldtone hardware is artfully swirled into shell-like spirals, accentuating the magnetic closure.

The lacing makes this bag a little too casual for black tie, but appropriate for most other situations. It's very likely to appeal especially to younger ladies who want a bag that doesn't look like their mother's. It makes a great gift, in fact, as its olive color is easy to wear and compliments all skin tones beautifully.

The Derek Lam Evie Clutch is available for pre-order from Saks Fifth Avenue for $890.00.

Must-Have Accessory: Modo for Jennifer Creel Classic Sunglasses

Filed under: Apparel

It may not come as too much of a surprise that Jennifer Creel can now add "sunglasses designer" to her long resume and list of talents. After all, sunglasses are a staple for her everyday wardrobe.

"People always knew me for wearing sunglasses," recalls the actress and model, who has appeared on a variety of television shows, including "The Bold and the Beautiful", Plum TV and Ovation TV. "Sunglasses have always been a passion of mine. They stage your mood for the day and complete an outfit."

The idea of designing her own line came after a friend who was familiar with Creel's love of the must-have accessory item, made the suggestion.

In the fall of 2008, Creel got in touch with Alessandro Lanaro, the chief executive of Modo Eyewear, a boutique designer eye wear company that owns such sunglass lines as Derek Lam, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Jason Wu and 7 for All Mankind, in addition to its Modo eyewear collection. A partnership was soon formed in which Creel would design an environmentally conscious eyewear collection.


Creel, who has a background in design (she spent a decade at Polo Ralph Lauren where she was a designer in the women's active wear division), has created eight styles for Modo. "I come up with the concepts and ideas about what women and men are looking for," says Creel. "I don't design for one particular person."

Her well-designed collection includes navigator styles, retro shapes, and a color palette with unique shades and hues of green, bark, purple, blue, red, and orange, in addition to classic options like tortoise and black. The sunglasses are hand crafted in Japan and made of all natural materials, including bamboo and leather. "There is so much workmanship involved with the creation of every piece," says Creel.

Cheap Chic: Gilt Groupe

Filed under: Apparel


The invitation-only online sample sales run by Gilt Groupe have gotten a major boost in an economy that needs a major booster shot. Launched less than a year ago, the site claims it maintains a "private online community," whether fashion-seekers are invited by existing members or through customer service on the site.

Sample sales are announced via email and generally last 36 hours -- or less, considering prices are 70% off retail. This week alone, I've received messages for sales on Chloé, Derek Lam and Thakoon. (The image above is from today's Marc by Marc Jacobs sale.)

The fledgling startup has recently forged partnerships with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and the CFDA. It also appointed last week the former Martha Stewart CEO Susan Lyne in preparation for click-happy recessionistas. The site does civilize the whole sample sale scene -- no Balenciaga tug-of-wars beyond the virtual.

Derek Lam Hildegard Hobo, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Set against this dark grey dress, the Hildegard Hobo from Derek Lam looks a bit darker than it does in some of its other photos, but that illustrates how versatile the natural dark cream color of the soft leather bag is, changing by degrees to suit your look. The bag features brass hardware, including an accenting ram head link on the front amidst the pintucked gathers at the top of the bag's body. The leather handle is flat with only a 6" drop, but there is an attachable padded leather shoulder strap that is included. There is an open top and a suede lining, with a small leather coin pouch included for storing smaller items that need a bit more securing. It measures 13" x 9" x 6". Price: $1,800.

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