Chronograph

Omega is borrowing from themselves in the design of the new De Ville Co-Axial Chronograph watch. The horizontally arranged overlapping subdials were first introduced to me in their Speedmaster 2008 Summer Olympics limited edition watch. Looks like both watches have the exact same movement, but it has been displayed differently here. For example the centrally located day of the week indicator is now a disc viewable through a window, versus a small dial. Omega has also adopted the style to fit in to the "De Ville theme" rather than the Speedmaster look. Movement is of course an Omega Co-Axial automatic that has been COSC Chronometer certified.

Pictured watch is in steel, there may also be a gold model in the works. The style is conservative and attractive. While it may fall short of "modern classic" it is an approachable and visually interesting men's watch. The best part of course is the functionality and arrangement of the subdials. Functions include the time, chronograph, day, and date. There is an unusual window for "recorded days." I am not sure exactly what this is, but it looks like Omega upped the chronograph from measuring up to 12 hours, to measuring up to 7 days. For keeping tract of really long times! "Better check back on this Turkey next week."According to Omega this new De Ville Co-Axial Chronograph watch should be due by Valentine's Day. So I guess they expect mostly women to buy it for men, and not men to buy it for themselves.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Ralph Lauren is offering a new limited edition version of its Stirrup chronograph watch in platinum for the holidays. Limited to 67 pieces worldwide to commemorate 1967, the year the Polo Ralph Lauren brand was born, the watch is priced at $68,500 and comes on a black alligator strap.

As my colleague Ariel Adams reported, the famed designer launched his new line of timepieces earlier this year, consisting of three separate collections, in a joint venture with Richemont.

The Stirrup Collection was inspired by heritage equestrian style and the celebrated history of Ralph Lauren. The self-winding watch will be available at select Polo Ralph Lauren boutiques worldwide and via www.ralphlauren.com.

Any performance automaker worth its logo has got to have a wristwatch to match. And while a carmaker's choice of wristwatch – think Panerai and Ferrari, Breitling and Bentley, Parmigiani and Bugatti – is meant to reflect the company's image, in some cases (like this PVD titanium one) it's more a reflection of the brand's aspirations. Because Abarth has always been about punching above its weight and taking on vehicles twice its size and ten times its price. So it should stand to reason that, even though its performance hatchbacks sell for relatively modest sums, the Abarth chronograph goes for more than €4,900, or the equivalent of some $7,300.

The timepiece is crafted by none other than Bernard Richards Manufacturer, a watchmaking atelier already known in motor racing circles for their inspiration from automobiles. To top the racing-themed design of the stock V12-T-44 chronograph, BRM has further differentiated the Abarth special edition with such custom touches as chrome hands and red stitching on the Nomex wrist-strap. Only 49 examples will be made available exclusively from BRM's website, making this timepiece considerably more exclusive than the cars its made to accompany.

The wave of retro watches continues this year. Your favorite high luxury watch makers just keep em coming. If today's luxury watches aren't selling, maybe ones that look like yesterday's will? This is the new (but you thought it was old didn't you?) Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph is the next iteration of the 1966 watch style. It may say 1966, but 1945 telegramed and wants their watch back. Not that this is a bad thing, but that is mentally where I place this design. A neatly displayed bi-compax 30 minute chronograph with a overly intricate tachymeter that takes up seemingly most of the dial. Reminds me a bit of certain Patek Philippe Calatrava watches.

The watch case is in 18k pink or white gold and 40mm wide. This size seems to be the new de facto of new vintage styled watches from the haute luxury watch makers. Good news is that the movement is an automatic, the newer caliber GP030C0 in-house made Girard-Perregaux column wheel movement. Strap is alligator and done in that classic thin style. A nice looker but not likely a top choice for younger generation luxury watch buyers. The official announcement will be in January at SIHH.

Ariel Adams published the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

I've previously mentioned that successful execution in design of a Valjoux 7751 movement based watch is tough. Here is an example of how to best utilize the movement, as seen in this Limes Pharo Vollkalender Chronograph watch. The German brand is pronounced "Lee-mehz," not like the citrus. The 40.5mm wide watch comes in a few variants (black and steel tone dials, with black or brown leather straps). Both the silver and black dial versions have a stately feel to them. The useful complications included in the automatic Valjoux 7751 movement are laid out in a logical manner. The list is actually quite long, and the movement represents a very good value for what you get. In addition to the time, the watch has a full calendar (day, date, and month), moon phase, 12 hour chronograph, and synchronized 24 hour hands. The dials are machine engraved with traditional decorations while the timepiece is very inviting in character.

In addition to the decorated watch dial, the movement is viewable through a sapphire caseback window and is decorated with perlage, Cotes de Geneve polished stripes, and blued steel screws. Water resistance of 50 meters is appropriate for the timepiece's genre. Many people seek the style that this Pharo Vollkalender Chronograh watch has, but aren't willing to pay the extremely high prices of Swiss watches such as Breguet. This watch retails for a more wallet responsible $4,280 (and you can even get it online at the Limes website). A quality brand that I've always know to be dedicated to making fine watches at reasonable prices.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

This watch has to have one of the most detailed Chopard watch cases I have ever seen. The image here doesn't do this fact justice, but look at the sides and rear of the watch and you get a visual treat. This limited edition of just 500 pieces 18kt gold watch steps both forward and back with a refreshing look at the Chopard racing chronograph watch line. Case size is about 48mm wide (big for the brand!) by 15mm thick. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

Likely the brand's more popular collection are the Mille Miglia watches. The nomenclature burst open a bit so that the Mille Miglia name isn't applied to all of their racing themed watches, but fans "in the know" understand the heritage. One of the most fun elements is the gold three spoke racing steering wheel that is placed on the side of the rubber coated crown. The sides of the case are all nicely milled and cut with an interesting horizontal striping. The large screw columns intentionally protrude a bit giving it a very technical feel. The crown guard and rubberized integrated chronograph pushers are nicely done in a unique style. The black on rose gold tones are extremely contemporary.

Chopard never lets down with the dials on its racing watches. The hands (in gold) are always large and have a high contrast with the dial. Three overlapping chronograph subdials are subdued, but legible. The dial itself enjoys a vertical pattering which is new to the collection, while the minute marker scaled chapter ring is futuristic and retro at the same time. Inside the watch is a base ETA automatic chronograph movement that has been COSC Chronometer certified. Lastly, no Chopard racing watch would be complete without the requisite Dunlop tire tread rubber strap. Price is about $24,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Patek Philippe has asserted a new found dedication to women's watches. As such, this new "Ladies First Chronograph" is a completely new type of direction for them when it comes to making watches for women. What is different? Well, for one, it isn't a jewelry piece. It is haute horology at its finest, but in a package for a modern sophisticated woman. It is handsome and mature, not girly and cute. For some, the design has missed the mark. They feel it is perhaps too retro and odd in design. That may be, but you can't deny the incredible legibility and uniqueness of the look. The cushion shaped case is 39mm wide (big for a women's watch) in 18krose gold, while the entire watch is meant to be a testament to classic French Art Deco design aesthetics.

The name of the watch itself is a shout to manners and respect. "By all means madam, ladies first..." It places women's watches on the same step as men's watches, especially in terms of functionality. It is often the case that women's watches house quartz movements. Not here. The Ladies First has an in-house made Patek Philippe manually wound chronograph movement. Above that, the movement is the brand new Caliber 29-535, and can be seen beautifully displayed in the caseback.

I find that there are a growing number of women who appreciate not only fine design, but also traditional watch mechanics. For those women, they can appreciate the high-end features of the chronograph movement such as a special system to ensure a high power reserve of almost 70 hours, a hack seconds function when resetting the time, and a special design to make this new movement appear much like how movements in the 1930s were presented.

No high luxury women's watch would be complete without a requisite number of diamonds. As such, the round dial is surrounded with a buffer zone of 136 diamonds between it and the cushion shaped bezel of the case. The watch dial comes in black or white, with various reptile strap colors. Price is heavy at 51,000 euros. But hey, it is a Patek Philippe.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

You know that when a watch model is comprised of this many words, the company behind it means business! New from Alpina is the Avalanche Extreme Chrono Double Digit watch, and name the obfuscates what is just a nice looking 30 minute chronograph watch. The Double Digit part of the moniker comes from the back that the hour indicators have been replaced with 5 minute indicators - a look popularized by certain aviator watches from the past. The idea is to make the watch dial appear more aligned with the fact that the minute hand is the one going over these markers. Usually this is combined with a smaller hour ring in the middle of the dial for the hour hand to follow - not here though.

The watches look pretty nice and sporty. You see the two versions that have a combination of steel and PVD coated steel on the 46mm wide cases. I like the large screws on the bezel as well. Sapphire crystals are placed on the the front and rear of the cases, which are 100 meters water resistant.

Movement is the Alpina caliber AL-850, which is a modified Swiss ETA automatic movement. In addition to the chronograph, there is an "open" date window. The version with the red subdials is the most stunning, but suffers from the thin skeletonized hour and minute hands which I imagine would be a pain to read. The all black PVD version has nice wide gray color hands that don't suffer from this problem. Probably a few thousand bucks, available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

On the other hand, there the other side to Seiko, the luxury watch maker. Deep inside Japan are several Seiko watch manufacturers making some of the best and most reliable luxury watches ever created. These are the "Lexus of watches." Until recently such highly desirable watches have been mostly for the Japanese domestic market only. Bearing such names like Grand Seiko and Credor, most Westerners didn't even know of their existence. There also exists a large population of American and European (among other places) watch lovers who are aware of the Seiko treasures in Japan, and are almost pained by the fact that they cannot get them locally. The good news is that is about to start changing.

Enter the Seiko Ananta line of watches. Finally a global high-end product from Seiko that contain the high-end 100% manufacture-made movements and watches. Why the important of "manufacture-made?" Today everyone speaks about "manufacture movements." These are movements in watches made all in-house by the manufacturer with out having third part companies make them. Such in-house movements are considered to be at the top of the heap for luxury watch desirability. The majority of watch brands don't make their own movements. Seiko does however. In fact, Seiko is of the few totally vertically integrated watch makers in the world.

I thought this rare S3 Bichrono timepiece interesting as it employs two distinct chronograph movements in one watch. While I have seen watches with more than one movement, I have never seen one with two mechanical chronograph movements in it. I am not surprised at all though - especially with this combo coming from deLaCour. You can easily see what they have done to make it work. What looks to be two ETA 2894 automatic movements are placed side by side. The movement on the left seems to be "upside" done, so that the pushers can be placed on the left side of the case. This allows for minimal modifications to the movement, explaining why the chronograph subdials are placed in the upside down position. Of course deLaCour altered the starting places for the chronograph hands so that they act in a natural manner for the two 12 hour chronograph complications available to the wearer.

The size of the watch is about as big as you would imagine given the space needed for two movemenst - that being 55mm wide and 53mm tall. Not terrible at 14mm thick. The case is done in 18k pink gold against titanium. Notice the textures surfaces on the chronograph pushers. The dial is really straight forward with deLaCour's typical spark of color and relatively easy to read dials. The chronograph subdials are partially skeletonized, which is an interesting touch. The date complication is retained on only one of the movements of course, to avoid confusion. The front and rear of the watch have sapphire crystals and the strap is a sporty rubber. An interesting watch from the watch maker who enjoys defying conventions. Expense is on par with the materials and the fact that it is an "individually crafted" timepiece.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

A watch like this is almost the quintessential classic Patek Philippe watch. A svelte looking gold watch with the iconic triple calendar and chronograph feature set. It is in 18k yellow gold - small for today - 36m wide case. The movement has the seal of Geneva and is top Patek Philippe quality. Functions include windows for the day and month, and the date is shown around a dial with the integrated moon phase indicator - it is a perpetual calendar by the way, making it even more desirable. There is a subsidiary seconds hand, along with a thirty minute chronograph, as well as the time of course.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 is often regarded as one of the best watches in the world. This particular model was made in the early 1980s, but the 2499 watches entered production literally decades before in various model generations. Despite the popularity of these models, they are very rare, and very valuable. A Patek Philippe 2499 watch from the early 1960's recently sold for $1.7 at auction. Thus, I believe that Antiquorum's estimate of $250,000 - $350,000 is intentionally conservative. They like being able to say that a watch "beat estimate," so they set it up that way pretty often. This Patek Philippe 2499/100 watch will be at Antiquorum's auction on September 17th in New York City.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Harry Winston continues to fill out its line of sport watches with another Ocean Diver, this time a chronograph. A logical layout and color scheme for the chronograph subdials makes sense matched up to the luxury of 18k rose or white gold. The watch also contains copious amounts of Zalium - a special Harry Winston only metal alloy made up of aluminum and zirconium. Realize that "Ocean" is a name applied to an entire line of Harry Winston watches, so calling this watch the "Ocean Diver" Chronograph is not just a silly obvious statement. Harry Winston will not be releasing a "pond" or "stream" diver. The case is an admirable 44mm wide with three dial colors that are slate, silver, or rose gold. A fine looking dive watch with a nice rubber strap and the name of a good luxury brand attached to it. Pricey at between $36,400 and $39,400 dollars.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Adding just a new color to the Arceau Chronograph watch lineup with the "Ebony," and Hermes almost has you convinced you've got a totally new model. This is follow up watch to the Arceau Chronograph Alezan announced around Baselworld earlier this year. To Hermes, the Arceau line is direct extension of their equestrian heritage, making for a perfect companion to their full line of riding gear.

Hermes watches are finely designed in my opinion with flowing smooth lines and a refinement on par with other luxury watches with the names of exclusive French designers on them (Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc...). The Arceau Ebony Chronograph has an almost totally black colored dial on the 43mm wide steel watch. Applied rings around the chronograph dials add a sense of depth to the mix, while the classic looking Arabic numerals have a character undeniably Hermes. The face is simple and clean, and Hermes could not resist adding the splash of their signature orange hue to the face to complete the branded look. I like the faceted window cut for the date window.

You get the distinct idea that the case shape is extremely smooth and pleasant to wear. Note the different lug structure at either end of the watch. Powering the timepiece is a Swiss ETA 2894 automatic movement. There is really nothing superfluous about the design, a fact that pleases me. Of course the watch would not be an Hermes if not fitted with a high grade calf leather strap, here in black with contrast stitching. Available soon from Hermes.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Fans of Louis Moinet timepieces will instantly recognize this special timepiece as being a very sporty version of the Twintech Chronograph watch. The Twintech is based on original Louis Moinet drawings from 1848, long before the advent of carbon fiber. You can read about the original Twintech Chronograph model here, and see here how the style has been refined a bit to accommodate for this revised style. This new watch is not so much an update rather than an alternative design.

Rather than a pretty retro design, this new Twintech model is all about the world of racing sports, something that Louis Moinet has been sponsoring here in the US. Aside from the carbon fiber face, the watch has a new font for the Arabic numerals as well as the racing red trim. The large watch has one of the most easy on the eyes rectangular watch cases on the market, and the red spots on the watch really make themselves seen. Many watches of this boldness can be difficult to read, as the dial can over-take the hands. I am glad to say that lume covered hands on this Twintech Chronograph watch hold their own and do not suffer from being drowned out in the mix. Overall a very nice looking steel sports watch that is unique, yet comfortable, compared to many others in the crowd.

A Louis Moinet representative let me check out this watch at Lussori, I can't speak to availability, but I have a feeling that at least a limited number of these watches should be available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Panerai will release a new pink gold limited edition Luminor 1950 watch (ref. PAM00319) with manually wound movement with 8 days of power reserve as well as a split second (rattrapante) chronograph. An all gold Panerai like this is pretty rare, and it uses the Panerai manufacture made P.2006/3 movement. The movement is manually wound with an 8 day power reserve (shown on the linear power reserve indicator scale). You also get the split second 30 minute chronograph that Panerai always knows how to cleanly integrate. In order to keep the case looking simple, the chronograph pushers are on the left side of the case.

The watch case is 47mm wide in pink gold done in a brushed finish. The bezel however is nicely done with a polished finish to show off that Panerai dazzle. It is certainly blingy for the Italian brand but still goes along with the character they seek to preserve. The rich brown colored alligator strap has a pink gold buckle. You can see the interestingly made movement through the sapphire caseback, and the watch is still a Panerai being water resistant to 100 meters. Only 300 of the watches will be made and the price will likely above $20,000. A nice looker, certainly a Panerai in all respects, and likely to be a hit with collectors.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.