Big Sur coastline

Sierra Mar in Big Sur: An Award-Winning Restaurant with Spectacular Views

by Zack O'Malley Greenburg (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Dining, Luxury Travel & Hotels

Halfway through the foie gras portion of a four course meal at Sierra Mar in Big Sur, a long-haired patron in jeans and a plaid shirt blunders into an oversized whale painting. A swarm of waiters quickly coalesces around him, attempting to prevent the listing canvas from falling over completely. Eventually they give up and lower the unhappy leviathan to the floor, leaning it against the wall until a more convenient time.

This is an interaction that might only be possible at Sierra Mar, the jewel of Big Sur's Post Ranch Inn, where casual is the norm despite rooms that run more per night than comparable apartments cost per month in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Gallery: Post Ranch Inn

Though the modern resort was founded in 1984, the land's history dates back to 1850 – when homesteader and grizzly bear hunter William Brainard Post took out a claim on 160 acres of land in Big Sur. That same land now plays host to the exclusive 39-room resort that carries the family's name.

These days, visitors are greeted with glasses of Champagne and whisked up the hill by a fleet of black Lexus hybrid SUVs. An array of rooms await, some nestled in the trees, some built into the side of the oceanside cliffs. All are outfitted with fireplaces, breathtaking views and, of course, free wireless internet. Perhaps best of all, the rooms are just a few minutes' walk from the restaurant.

Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright student Mickey Muennig, Sierra Mar is perched 1,200 feet above the crashing tides of the Pacific. The views are almost as dramatic as the taste sensations caused by the delicious menu. On a stormy night this spring, dinner begins with an amuse bouche of cured salmon, crème fraiche and Tsar Nicoulai caviar. Forget your mouth – your whole body will be amused and amazed at rich array of flavors unleashed by the single bite.

Appetizers include the Butter Poached Maine Lobster, served in a lemongrass-coconut broth with green papaya salad, and the Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna, smothered in wasabi butter and shallot soy. In both dishes, the interplay between creamy sauce and fresh seafood makes for a refreshingly light and flavorful starter. But the highlight has to be the heavier Foie Gras Tasting and its three interpretations of goose liver: seared alongside pickled quince; torched in a tiny crème brûlée dish; and sautéed atop miniature pancakes.

The second course options are equally engaging, especially the Bourride – a single, spongy Maine diver scallop engulfed in a red pepper picada and garlic crumbs. If you're looking for a leafy respite from a fishy dinner, try the Artaulfo Mango Salad and treat your taste buds to a trio of roasted macadamia nuts, mint leaves and fresh water chestnuts.

Of the main course options – Alaskan Halibut, Roast Organic Air Chilled Chicken Breast, Risotto and Roast Prime Rib Eye Steak – the latter is certainly the heartiest. Paired with braised short rib hash and topped with a poached egg, the rib eye is a bouquet of textures and smoky flavors. Fortunately, the portion is sensibly sized to ensure you won't leave feeling anchored by your entrée.

For a true Big Sur dessert, look no further than the S'Mores. Though not quite the messy delicacy found at nearby beatnik campfires for the past half-century, this neat stack of warm chocolate cake and flamed marshmallow ice cream should please any palate.

As your meal at the Sierra Mar draws to a close, the floor-to-ceiling glass windows will be filled with the vast darkness of the Pacific below. The dim lights will seem dimmer, and after a few glasses of wine, you might find yourself imagining the ghost of Kerouac flittering through the restaurant. That's all well and good – just try not to bump into any whale paintings on your way out.

Tags: awards-main, big sur, Big Sur coastline, dining, dining out, luxist-awards, Sierra Mar

Big Sur's Nepenthe: A Cliffside Bar and Restaurant with Panoramic Views

by Zack O'Malley Greenburg (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Dining, Luxury Travel & Hotels

For a careful observer, twenty minutes at Nepenthe is enough to learn all one needs to know about Big Sur. Sit down for a sunset cocktail and listen as the lawyer on your left explains why he's allowed to grow marijuana in California. Ask the rolling-stone bartender where he's headed next, and don't expect him to know. Don't forget to notice the blue-blazered investment banker across the bar from you. He's probably stopping off for a drink before dinner at the spectacular Sierra Mar, down the road.

Nepenthe is living proof of the dichotomy at the heart of Big Sur, a secret betrayed in print by the same beatniks who discovered it. The cliffside bar and restaurant has a clientele that includes occupants of $50-per-night tent cabins in the woods and guests from $1,500-a-night luxury resorts along the ocean. They all walk up the same steps, past an old-fashioned telephone booth, under a string of jalapeno-shaped lights, to Nepenthe.

Gallery: Big Sur's Nepenthe

Founded more than 60 years ago, Nepenthe has long been associated with both glamour and grime. Designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, Nepenthe was originally purchased by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth on a whim. As legend has it, the pair – whose relationship was stormy as a Big Sur winter – spent one night in the area and never returned, eventually selling the property to the family that currently owns Nepenthe.

Today, patrons still enjoy panoramic views of the Pacific from copious indoor and outdoor seating. Unlike some of Big Sur's fancier locales don't bother making a reservation unless there are more than four people in your party. Highlights on the menu include the signature Ambrosia Burger and Lolly's Roast Chicken.

For the best experience, arrive before night falls and watch the sun slip into the Pacific. Enjoy a drink from Nepenthe's considerable wine list, or let the bartender cook up a delicious cocktail. And make sure to chat up at least one stranger before heading out – there are few better places to meet fascinating folks.

Tags: awards-main, big sur, Big Sur coastline, dining, dining out, luxist-awards, nepenthe restaurant

Ventana Inn: A Sense of Calm in Big Sur

by Zack O'Malley Greenburg (RSS feed) —

Filed under: Dining, Luxury Travel & Hotels

From any direction, the drive to Big Sur is at once stunning and stressful, awe-inspiring and nauseating. Hairpin turns seem to punctuate every panorama, and as Highway 1 dips toward the Pacific and soars skyward, your stomach bounces along with it.

But when you leave the winding road for another, steeper, shorter street that runs up the side of Big Sur's highest hill to the Ventana Inn & Spa, a sense of calm sweeps over you. Perhaps it's the pungent scent of cedar that pervades the resort, or maybe it's the glass of wine you're given at check-in. Either way, the relaxation begins as soon as you arrive on the property.

Ventana has been that way since writer Lawrence Spector founded the resort in 1975 with funds earned from the film "Easy Rider." Early frequenters of the inn included Steve McQueen and Ali McGraw; more recently, Ventana has counted Anthony Hopkins and Oprah Winfrey among its visitors. All along, it's been a place for those who want to see – but not necessarily be seen.

And there's a lot to see. Though Ventana's 60 rooms and suites mostly resemble humble cabins on the outside, their interiors contain a mix of rustic and modern luxuries sure to please any vacationer. Each room comes with a view of valley, mountain, ocean, or all of the above. A private balcony or patio is also standard, as are real wood-burning fireplaces, heated stone floors, Egyptian cotton sheets, terry cloth robes, and of course, a flat-screen television. Many suites also boast private hot tubs.

Tags: awards-main, big sur, Big Sur coastline, California, Easy Rider, hotel, luxist-awards, luxury hotels, luxury travel, Post Ranch Inn, Sierra Mar, Ventana Inn