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The Classicist: Thomas Pink Celebrates Englishmen in New York

Filed under: Events, Books, Men's Style, The Classicist

The Classicist: Thomas Pink Celebrates Englishmen in New York
LVMH-owned London shirtmaker and haberdasher Thomas Pink is celebrating a stylish forthcoming book called An Englishman In New York with an event and exhibit at its Madison Avenue flagship in New York on March 24. The volume of photographs by Jason Bell includes notables and notable dandies like Vogue's Hamish Bowles (above), Barneys' Simon Doonan and Sting, British to the core but also quintessential New Yorkers. Bell's photographs are currently on exhibit at at London's National Portrait Gallery, where the book has already been released; it's scheduled for publication here on April 1.

As an Englishman living in New York himself, Bell was inspired by the fact that there are 120,000 British men and women living in New York City – about the same amount as the entire population of Stamford, Connecticut. In addition to the above Bell photographed a diverse cross-section of British born figures, including taxi drivers, cops, construction workers, divers, helicopter pilots, chefs, burlesque dancers, drug dealers, UN ambassadors and dog walkers, all of whom tell stories about how they came to settle in New York.

"I went for a walk in Central Park with Sting, and for a cup of tea on Kate Winslet's roof terrace, sat on Zoë Heller's stoop and watched Stephen Daldry bicycle down 8th Avenue," Bell relates. "I was given a private tour of both the Metropolitan Museum and the Barneys' shop windows. I started with a blank canvas and was amazed by the number of Englishmen and women who have made such a large impact on the cultural life of the city. And amidst all the questions about why people had come here and what they had left behind, I learnt a little bit more about what it means to be English, what it means to be a New Yorker, and where the two intersect."

"We are extremely excited to be hosting an event to honour Jason and his brilliant work," says Jonathan Heilbron, President and CEO of Thomas Pink. "Thomas Pink itself is 'An Englishman in New York.' We opened our Madison Avenue Flagship store over 13 years ago and New York has come to be a second home and major market for our brand. Thomas Pink is English at heart but we are truly a New Yorker too." [cont'd]

Some Prada Items Pulled From Barneys In Retail Stand-Off

Filed under: Luxury Shopping

pradaIf you want to get your hands on the latest Prada handbag you won't be headed to Barneys New York anymore. The Wall Street Journal confirms that Prada is no longer selling any new goods but shoes and menswear at Barneys. Barneys New York Chief Executive Mark Lee says the beef with Barneys began when Prada asked to lease space from Barneys and control its own inventory and markdowns. Barneys refused and Prada decided to pull certain categories. Barneys will be using its former Prada space for pieces from Azzedine Alaia.

The WSJ article goes on to say that this decision was made prior to Mr. Lee's takeover and was related to Barneys position that it doesn't lease vendor space. Lee has said that he wants Barneys to have more exclusive items that can't be found elsewhere. He's also planning a large renovation for existing stores and an overhaul of the store website. He also recently made the controversial move to appoint a new Creative Director, Dennis Freedman, who replaced the beloved Simon Doonan, who is now the Creative Ambassador-at-Large.

12 New Year's Eve Party Dresses

Filed under: Apparel


The Holiday Season is in full swing. Christmas is quickly approaching and before you know it, New Year's Eve will make its arrival. And you know what that means? The search begins, if it hasn't already, for the perfect dress to attend the world's ultimate party.

So what makes for the perfect dress? First off is comfort. If you don't feel comfortable and confident in what you are wearing, don't wear it. Even the most expensive dress by the best designer will not work if you don't feel comfortable. Second, forget the trends and wear a dress that works for your body. Find a complementing silhouette, color and length.

To help your quest for the right dress, we've searched and found a collection of some breathtaking and seductive dresses. We start with a gorgeous strapless party dress from Tracy Reese. The Curving Cloudcover Dress ($398) is made with various pieces of delicate chiffon that are layered together against a form fitting a-line silhouette. A dark color combination of black and grey with hints of sequins makes for a versatile dress that would complement all skin tones. Reese's elegant and ethereal dress is fashionable enough to be worn with minimal jewelry and sexy high-heeled patent leather pumps for a knock-out outfit.

Take a look through our gallery below of chic dresses to bring in the New Year.

Have tips or suggestions? Contact me @marsha712

The Classicist: E. Tautz, A Sartorial Star Reborn on Savile Row

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style, The Classicist


E. Tautz & Sons, the venerable fine men's tailoring firm founded by Edward Tautz in London in 1867, has been resurrected by Savile Row's Norton & Sons to carry on its impeccable sartorial standards in a new century. Tautz began as a sporting tailor and introduced many innovations such as waterproof tweeds and knickerbocker breeches for the hunting set. By 1897 Tautz had been granted a Royal Warrant from the King of Italy, The King and Queen of Spain and The Emperor of Austria. Winston Churchill placed his first order with the firm in 1895 and continued to be a valued customer for the next 20 years; later on Tautz dressed such natty notables as David Niven and Cary Grant, and in 1968 the company was incorporated into the larger Savile Row firm of Norton & Sons and ceased to be a standalone label.

As Norton's owner Patrick Grant explained to Style Salvage, though quality on the level of Tautz's offerings doesn't come cheap, fine tailoring in the bespoke tradition pays for itself in the long run. "Tailoring is an incredibly efficient way of buying clothes cost wise and you really get what you pay for," he notes. "You are getting tremendous value for money if you go to a tailor and it just so happens that [Tautz is] in the middle of a community of the best tailors in the world. 'The only name in your suit should be your own' is the old adage and that is a nice way of thinking about it." Of course, custom made isn't for everyone, but Tautz is the next best thing as it shares many of the same tailoring methods with Norton's Savile Row workshops.

"We champion the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear," reads Tautz's mission statement. "We adhere to the age old belief that how you dress reflects your respect for the event and for your host. Edward VIII said it best. 'Be always well and suitably dressed for every conceivable occasion." FIne fabrics including the world's best wools and cashmere are a cornerstone of the Tautz style. Prices for Tautz's new ready-to-wear collection start at $300 for cotton sport shirts, $600 for knitwear, $1,500 for outerwear and $1,700 for sport coats. To begin with the collection will be sold in the U.S. exclusively through Barneys New York.

Will Ron Burkle Save Barney's?

We've written before of the troubles facing Barneys New York but could the savior of the company be billionaire Ron Burkle? The Wall Street Journal reports that the Burkle is looking to take a controlling stake in Barneys. Barneys is currently owned by Istithmar World Capital, the investment arm of state-owned Dubai World which bought the luxury chain at peak value for $942 million in 2007.

Burkle's investment firm Yucaipa Cos. bought up a piece of Barneys' debt in November and he has since tendered an offer to add "at least another $50 million" through a loan deal that would give him a full 80 percent of Barneys' common equity. The WSJ article says that a person close to Istithmar said the proposal isn't on the table. The other group with a hand in the game is Perry Capital, which has a controlling position in Barney's senior debt. Perry Capital would have to sign off on any potential deals. last fall we learned that Perry Capital had been approached by the Canadian department store chain Holt Renfrew on an offer of join control of Barney's.

What would Burkle do for Barneys? Certainly there's the cash infusion and his Yucaipa company seems to be expanding from its grocery store roots. The firm has invested in jewelry designer Stephen Webster, retailer Scoop, Zac Posen and Sean John. The luxury market is still hard hit but there have been signs of life, especially on the upper edge of luxury, Burkle could help Barneys be poised to take advantage of the resurgence.

Readers' Choice Award Nominees for Best in Accessories

Filed under: Handbags, Jewelry, Timepieces / Watches

Best Jewelry Line
Each of the Readers' Choice nominees for Best Jewelry Line is a leader in the industry. One is not only known for its signature jewelry, but also for the blue box that it comes in. Another is known for its handcrafted pieces, but it is also known for its many innovations. Another nominee is a newer designer on the scene who is inspired by Florentine jewelry-making, but also astronomy, celestial, mythological and astrological influences. Another nominee is synonymous with glamour and fame and has ties to some of the world's most famous jewels. Finally, there's a nominee known for the panache of its founder, as well as its vast collection of the world's finest diamonds.
Graff Diamonds
Harry Winston
Temple St. Clair
Tiffany & Co.
Van Cleef & Arpels

Best Watch Line
The Readers' Choice for the Best Watch Line nominees include a perennially favored brand among the watch-loving elite that is known for making the most complex wrist watch in the world. Another nominee is known for its functionally-themed luxury sport watches. The third nominee, while an historic brand with almost 200 years of heritage, is known for being a forward focused luxury watch maker of the future. A fourth nominee is perhaps the best-known luxury watch brand in the world, with a stellar reputation to match. Lastly, there's a watchmaker that epitomizes Swiss haute horology with its modern classics and technical innovation.
Audemars Piguet
IWC
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Patek Philippe
Rolex

Best Leathergoods Line
The Readers' Choice for the Best Leathergoods Line for a Luxist Award include award-winning brands from France, Italy and London. One started out making equestrian equipment in 1837, and still makes its goods by hand; some of its handbags are so coveted, there's a two-year long wait list to buy one. Another was started in London by a former fashion editor who partnered with a couture shoe maker to create a company now synonymous with the "red carpet". The third nominee is known for its clean lines and simple classic color palettes while the fourth is a global force of tradition and innovation. And finally, the last nominee epitomizes luxury with its delectable designer bags and vaunted luggage--some of which command five figure prices.
Bottega Veneta
Gucci
Hermes
Jimmy Choo
Louis Vuitton

Best Department Store/Boutique
Nominees for Readers' Choice for Best Department Store/Boutique include one based in London that has no fewer than 330 different departments, a staff of 5,000 from 50 different countries and is visited by as many as 300,000 people on a single day. Another, with roots in Texas, is known for its superior customer service, in addition to its luxury merchandise, including some of the world's most extravagant items. One New York-based store has a shoe department that is so large, it was given its own zip code. Another Manhattan-based store specializes in hard-to-find international designers, many of which it will help launch into fame. Lastly, there's an upstart from London that is so cutting-edge and up-to-date, it launches 300 new styles on a weekly basis.
Barneys New York
Harrods
Neiman Marcus
Saks Fifth Avenue
Top Shop

Best Clothing Designer
Readers' Choice nominees for Best Clothing Designer are award-winning fashion designers from Italy, England, France and the United States. One was started by a wunderkind who was named chief designer of one of the most respected fashion houses when he was still in his 20's. Another has been one of the leading names in fashion for nearly 100 years. A third nominee, known for its timeless style, has outfitted First Ladies on both sides of the aisle for decades while the fourth is famed for its understated elegance. The final nominee is synonymous with high fashion though its roots are in luggage and leather goods.
Alexander McQueen
Chanel
Gucci
Oscar de la Renta
Prada

Barneys New York: A Leader in Cutting-Edge Fashion

Filed under: Apparel, Jewelry, Cosmetics and Fragrance, Shoes


Sarah Jessica Parker once said, "If you're a nice person and you work hard, you get to go shopping at Barneys." It's not just Parker and her Sex and the City contemporaries in New York that frequent this Luxist-nominated department store -- flagship locations are sprinkled throughout the country from Boston to San Francisco.

According to legend, Barney Pressman opened his first store with the $500 he received for pawning his wife's engagement ring. He packed the 500-square-foot location at Seventh Avenue and West 17th Street in Manhattan with brand-name suits sold at discount prices. To get good deals on his merchandise, Pressman raided showroom sample sales and even a few bankruptcy auctions. He lured customers by offering free alterations and free parking.

Barneys expanded and focused on the high-end lifestlye during the middle of the 20th Century, emerging as a major purveyor of luxury goods. Barneys also expanded geographically, opening its first store beyond the Big Apple in 1988 and opened its first international location in Tokyo in 1990.

Today, the flagship Barneys in New York is located in midtown. Like the store's other locations, it peddles goods produced by hard-to-find international designers. Products from the likes of Manolo Blahnik, Diane von Furstenberg and Ermenegildo Zegna dot the displays. Though the Pressman family sold its stake in the company in 2004, free parking is still available -- if you can find it on the street.

Cast your vote for the Readers' Choice Awards at http://www.luxist.com/awards-vote/accessories-awards.

Would You Pay $60 for Mascara?

Filed under: Cosmetics and Fragrance

Would You Pay $60 for Mascara?Seeing that Barney's New York is the exclusive vendor of the Serge Lutens Mascara Comb, that gives us a glimpse of the type of upscale customer who would indeed purchase this product. Lutens is a fragrance and make-up guru and creates his cosmetics collection of "exquisitely textured gems of color and deluxe formulations." This mascara has a comb wand, lash-by-lash applicator that purports to lengthen, refine, and shape lashes.

So, are you buying this claim, either figuratively or literally? Tell us in the poll below.

Would You Pay $60 for Mascara?
Yes, if it works for me.84 (32.9%)
No way. That's just too much for mascara.171 (67.1%)

How To Be Fabulous with Jonathan Adler and Simon Doonan

Filed under: Events, Charity

At the recent Moth Ball this week the fabulous men-about-town Jonathan Adler and Simon Doonan were on hand to present the annual $5000 MothShop scholarship. The recipient, New York City high school student Terrence Buckner, told a wise beyond his years story on his struggles with coming out in his rough Brooklyn neighborhood. Doonan shared his own story of pretending to be straight in front of an immigration officer in the 70s, for the purposes of obtaining a work visa.

The master designer and Barneys Creative Director have been longtime supporters of the Moth, a nonprofit dedicated to the art of storytelling. We caught up with the couple at the event to find out why they love the organization so much. Read on in our exclusive interview to find out their advice for having an unforgettable holiday, just how recession-proof is Barneys, and just what they'll never be caught dead leaving home without.

Ariston Anderson: Why are you such big supporters of the Moth?

Jonathan Adler: I love, love the organization. It is so creative and fun and interesting. I go to fancy-schmancy events and sort of like they all are just boring. And the Moth is quite the opposite. It's fascinating and fun. I love them. It's the only thing on my calendar that I'm not dreading. It's the one sort of shining star on my Blackberry.

Simon Doonan: I love the Moth because I guess I'm just a Chatty Cathy and I love the idea of telling stories. It's just so well organized. It's always entertaining. Like when you go out in New York to a lot of events there's no content. But when you come to a Moth event you actually come away with a lot of thought provoking ideas and stories. And of course a lot of humor as well as serious stuff. So yeah, it puts some content into the New York scene, so I love that.

AA: How important is storytelling in design work?

JA: That's actually a great question. I am really focused on narrative in my work. Definitely in decorating I always try to start a creative narrative. The narrative usually involves trying to make my clients seem a little more eccentric, and a little more glamorous than they might actually be.

AA: Simon, have you had to alter any of window displays at Barneys because of the recession?

SD: At Barneys, I always made stuff out of found objects and I always recycle things. The windows at Barneys are always very crafty, and they were always about paper-mâché and finding things in the street. At Barneys, paradoxically, we have a very recession-proof point-of-view because it was never about sort of opulence or bling. It was always kind of subtle and sort of crafty.

AA: Last year, you were advocating the cape here. Are capes still in?

SD: Capes? Everything is in. That's the thing, nothing ever goes out of style anymore. All trends concurrently exist. In this room somebody is probably rocking every trend known to mankind.

AA: What tips do you have for having a fabulous holiday party this season?

SD: For an amazing holiday party, I think there's no such thing as being overdressed. You know, if you feel like wearing a full-length ballgown, just wear it. People worry too much about being event-appropriate. It's much better to be overdressed. As Andy Warhol said, it's much better to be the right thing in the wrong place. You always have fun if you do the right thing in the wrong place.

JA: I think that everyone should have Lee Press On Nails for every guest. It could turn a business meeting into a party.

AA: Have you ever worn them yourself?

JA: I have. (Laughs) But only in the context of a party. It's not an everyday thing.

SD: I think if you want to have a fabulous holiday this season, buy a feather boa. Nothing makes you feel bubbly and vivacious like a feather boa. It's very glam rock.

AA: What are some luxuries you can't live without?

SD: Well Johnny and I have a condo, down in Palm Beach. So we love to go down there and run on the beach and frolic during cold winter weekends. So that's a real self-indulgent luxury. Other than that, no drugs. You know, I'm on a natural high. I don't have an expensive drug habit. And I'm so small I would love to buy clothes all the time, but I can't find things that fit me because I'm a midget.

JA: You know what I can't live without is my pill keychain. My enamel pill keychain. It's in the shape of a pill, and it also functions as a little pillbox. So it holds three pills, just an emergency supply, so that's my most essential item.

AA: What's in your pillbox?

JA: Xanax, xanax, and xanax.

Will Barneys File For Bankruptcy?


In January I mentioned that Barneys New York might be up for sale but now the luxury department store might be headed on a different path. Bloomberg News is reporting that the store is looking at either a debt restructuring or a bankruptcy filing. Dubai-based investment fund Istithmar World bought the luxury chain at peak value for $942 million in 2007. But after a year of slumping sales the company is feeling the increasing pressure of its boatload of debt. Earlier this year Barneys got a major infusion of money to allow it to pay for its shipments for the rest of the year.

Bloomberg says that Perry Capital, the hedge fund firm that helped finance the 2007 buyout, has been approached by the Canadian department store chain Holt Renfrew on an offer of join control of Barney's. Holt Renfrew has stores in major Canadian cities including Montreal and Vancouver. Getting a partner might be the best shot for saving the struggling retailer since it's unlikely that a buyer would come forward at this point. According to the article, Barneys and its owners are still considering what to do. With an uncertain holiday season approaching the store may have to make a move soon. Luxury department stores are cautiously optimistic that this season may be better than last but it probably won't be strong enough to alter the situation for stores that are struggling.

Why might Holt Renfrew want Barneys? If the Toronto-based chain ever wanted to make forays into the United States this would present a nice opportunity. The chains are of similar size. Holt Renfrew has nine stores throughout Canada. Barneys has nine department stores in major cities and like other stores such as Saks and Nordstrom it also has thriving business in outlets (it has 13) and lower priced stores (19 Co-OP stores). Both stores stock the same types of designer brands including Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen and Michael Kors.

Paul Smith Debuts Exclusive Collection for Barneys

Filed under: Apparel, Men's Style

Brilliant British designer Sir Paul Smith (right) is teaming up with Barneys New York to launch an exclusive new limited edition menswear collection. Titled simply "Exclusive", the line of suiting, separates and shirting was designed with the urbane Barneys New York customer in mind and will only be available at Barneys flagships.

Manufactured in Italy using Italian and British cloths, Paul Smith Exclusive has a modern, tailored silhouette, "finished with the design twists and styling details that have become synonymous with the Paul Smith brand," such as colorful linings.

Suits feature subtle stripes and Prince of Wales checks on gray and navy grounds, while shirting is bright with striped and checked designs on white bases. Velvet evening jackets and weekend sport coats complete the exclusive and extremely natty collection. Smith also just opened a new store in San Francisco.

Barneys New York Gets Much-Needed Cash Boost

barneys
In January I mentioned that Barneys New York might be up for sale but it seems that the Dubai-based investment fund Istithmar World will be holding on to the luxury department store a little longer (mainly because, right now, no one is buying). Reuters reports that Barneys got a major infusion of money that will allow it to pay for its shipments for the rest of the year.

It was a much needed boost which came immediately after Standard & Poor's cut Barneys to a deeply distressed level warning that vendors might limit shipments. Istithmar has not revealed the amount of the monetary pick-me-up but earlier this month the New York Post said that Istithmar planned to spend at least $10 million. The funds give the troubled department store a little breathing room to stay afloat during these times when spending is low. Luxury department stores have been hit hard by the recession and are cutting back on expenses and inventory until shoppers find their way back to the store aisles.

Barneys For Sale


Luxury department store Barneys may be the next big brand seeking a buyer. The Dubai-based investment fund Istithmar World which bought the retailer less than two years ago is looking to sell. Bloomberg reports that Istithmar wants to sell for the same $942.3 million it paid in September of 2007. Of course things were a little different then and some say that it's ludicrous to expect the same price now. Luxury department stores have been suffering in recent months with both Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus reporting major sales declines and laying off workers.

Some say that Istithmar World is looking to raise ready cash and the state-owned fund is willing to sell its entire stake. Dubai's rapid real estate expansion and declining oil prices have put the country in deep debt.

Barneys has had a history of ups and downs. The store was founded by Barney Pressman in 1923. The Pressman family lost control in 1998 and the company flirted with bankruptcy.Jones Apparel Group Inc. for $294.3 million in 2004, a number that seems small considering what they were able to sell it for a few years later. Istithmar would have to hold on to the brand for a long time to get a similar return on its investment. The news comes just as Barneys has been in the news for creating window displays celebrating designer Isabel Toledo, the designer of Michelle Obama's inauguration outfit.

'White Christmas' Inspired Bags, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags, Holiday Guides

white handbag
'Tis the season for blankets of snow and frosted branches, ski trips and furry boots, and new handbags to match the winter white theme. Whether you are shopping at Saks, Bergdorfs, Nordstroms, Neimans or Barneys there are clean, colorless clutches, totes and hobos to suit the season. Here are a few of my favorites inspired by the holiday tune, 'White Christmas' that are chic, sophisticated and frosty including the Nablak Vernice Tote from Prada pictured above.

Luxury Retailers Slash Prices to 70%

Filed under: Apparel


You almost expect a Prada-clad shopgirl to announce a blue light special in aisle 8. Except you're at Bergdorf Goodman, and they don't do that there. And yet, over the weekend Madison Avenue Spy reported that Bergdorf would slash prices to 70% off, likely to compete with Saks who'd gone that far the week before.

Those on Barney's email list learned this morning that the store would go to 60% off retail. And we're only a week into December.

According to the NY Times, the recent sales have induced a bit of a frenzy in Manhattan, where lizard-skin handbags are tossed together into bargain-bin like displays a la Wal-Mart...aisle 8.

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