Far be it from me to criticize designers when they get creative, try something new or push the envelope. That's fashion.

But, is it me, or are designers presenting collections in Paris this week getting downright costume-y? More than a few of them have gone from subtle references in their collections to frighteningly literal representations of sea creatures, Roman gladiators or whatever else inspires them.

Take Louis Vuitton's show yesterday. Marc Jacobs used giant Afro wigs-the kind you'd pick up on the Halloween aisle-in his presentation. Disappointingly, the Afros were the only things unifying the collection comprised of everything but the kitchen sink (Davy Crockett fur, American Indian accessories, military looks, hippie, club kid, etc.).

Alexander McQueen called his show Plato's Atlantis. With hair sculpted into reptilian fins, models walked by in oversize platformed shoes that looked like heads-scary in more ways than one (you could probably break an ankle in those things). Reptilian patterns, scales and otherworldly silhouettes brought home the idea that we all came from ancient creatures of the deep.

It was a chainsaw massacre at Viktor & Rolf. Paying homage to the economy, the duo took a chainsaw to tulle gowns, cocktail gowns and jackets. To be fair, you expect this sort of thing from these fashion pranksters. These guys have been poking fun at the industry for years (and laughing all the way to the bank).

Last week, I told you about Air Tahiti's new designer crew uniforms. While I was more concerned about mid-air wardrobe change logistics, and noted only in passing that the new togs didn't look so-very-Balenciaga to me, Jeffries Blackerby of The Moment was right on it. He reports that the outfits were designed by Balenciaga Uniforms, which is a division of a company that apparently has absolutely nothing to do with the design sensibility of Nicolas Ghesquière, Balenciaga's creative director. Blackerby advises Air Tahiti: "let's not get all excited", presumably about being associated with Balenciaga.

Now, let's take a step back. Blackberby is right to point out that Balenciaga Uniforms, which handled the design of Air Tahiti's new uniforms, is owned by a French company called Creation & Image. (Wheras the fashion house Balenciaga is owned by PPR, which also owns Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and many others.)

But licensing of a designer's name is what makes the fashion world go 'round -- should you need a little brush-up on how this works, here's a nice article from the New York Times (and of course The Moment is a New York Times' blog) concerning Vera Wang. I'll grant that some designers retain more control than seems to be the case at Balenciaga Uniform -- which is apparently absolutely none. (And that's despite the smoking gun that some commenters at The Moment think they've discovered when they point out that Nicolas Ghesquière apparently once worked in the uniform division -- an amusing, if meaningless, sidenote, absent any evidence that Ghesquière is keeping a loving and attentive eye on all the rungs of the ladder he's climbed.)

Still, I submit that Air Tahiti should get every bit as excited as it wants over its Balenciaga uniforms. If we're only going to allow purchasers to take credit for the designer items that they buy that are not made by license, the licensing business ceases to have all value, and really -- do we think our economy can take that? Leaving aside world economic well-being, for the more important fashion issue, I agree with a point that Danica Lo made over at The Haute List: Designers need to keep more control over their name.

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$80 billion private equity firm The Carlyle Group just announced plans to acquire a 48% stake in Moncler, the French luxury sport label founded in 1952 famed for its stylish down jackets. In fact, Moncler claims credit for inventing the down-filled ski jacket, which it has supplied to French Olympic teams for the winter games since the 1960s. The jackets have become extremely fashionable and can be seen on the slopes from Aspen to Gstaad. The company has collaborated with the likes of Balenciaga, Yohji Yamamoto and Fendi. It's high-end Gamme Rouge line is designed by Italian fashionista Giambattista Valli. "Moncler is a historic sport luxury garment brand that has returned to play a relevant and prestigious role in the market," Carlyle Group managing director Marco De Benedetti said in a statement, noting plans for expanding the company globally.

Balenciaga is well known for creating avant-garde bags, their designs are always on the cutting edge of fashion and as far as quality, their extraordinary craftsmanship is unsurpassed. This chic new Balenciaga shoulder bag is so refreshing and different. I love the interesting combination of both black and tan leather. The straps are comprised of buckles, a creative twist on the usual use of hardware. Available online exclusively from matchesfashion.com for $2,400.

Lindsay Lohan entered rehab this week and sources reported that the 20 year old actress was "carrying a dark Balenciaga bag and a Jamba Juice drink." The question here is does this affect that brand name? Since Lohan isn't connected to the fashion house except as a consumer (and occasional model), what she does or does not do shouldn't have an impact on the brand, nor should what any other celebrity does. But it is well known that getting celebs to carry or wear your products can result in a sales boost. When negative press is associated with a brand name, or matter how tangentially, does that cause their sales to drop off?

In other words, if you know that a handbag, or other luxury item, is also very popular with a less-than-respectable group, does it cause you to rethink your choices when shopping?

As a trend, leggings aren't going out of style just yet. Instead, they're getting more sophisticated. Balenciaga featured this particular pair in their S/S 2007 runway collection. They look metallic, but it is more likely that they are made of some sort of metallic fabric than actual gold. Then again, they are made only at request and cost roughly $100,000 per pair, which is pretty steep for what amounts to what is little more than long underwear.

How much would you pay for a hat by designer Nic Ghesquiere of Balenciaga? After seeing it in so many editorials over the last few months, the Balenciaga riding hat was featured in the New York Times, complete with commentary. It was a relief to see that, even after all that seemingly positive photo coverage in the fashion mags, that it was accurately described as "bulbous", "alien" and even light bulb-like (in white). The NYT also mentioned that it is priced at $1,175 - steep for headgear that sort of floats above one's head.

You'll have to visit a boutique if you actually want to wear the thing.

When horizontal stripes can back in style, it was hard to tell if they were going to stick around or have only a short shelf life. They stuck around for a season or so, but as designers moved from winter and spring onto summer, they needed to do something different with the pattern. They went nautical. After all, it's not a big jump from stripes to sailors, when you consider that the traditional sailors' outfits that are played up in films and histories consist largely of navy-and-white stripes.

You can see the look in the summer/fall Balenciaga collection, which had a sailor outfit showcased in Harper's Bazaar, and in the New York Times, which wrote up a piece highlighting the nautical tattoo-inspired designs at Sailor Jerry. For something in between those two style extremes, try an outfit like this Crossback Dress by Nina Ricci. It has the blue and white sailor stripes, but wraps them around the body on a thick ribbon, instead of using the pattern on the dress itself. The white dress is made of silk and is fully lined, with flattering, flowing pleats. Price: $3,290.