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The Fashion Statement: In Goth We Trust

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



I was at the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey, last week soaking it all in. This was the site where the sultans displayed decapitated heads on stakes to discourage bad behavior among their subjects. Probably the most famous of these heads was Dracula's (Vlad, the Impaler) which had been preserved in honey. Not a bad piece of ghoulish history to come across to get in the spirit of Halloween.

Probably the closest thing you can get to horror in the fashion world is goth. At its worst, goth is all about death, rot and decay. At its best, goth is erotic even a romantic period style of dress. Typically, goth is all about dark colors-blacked out eyes, whitened skin, black hair and a plethora of body piercings.

Most people think goth fashion came out the post punk scene that rose up out of the United Kingdom in the '80s. In fact, goth origins are ancient and appears to be the result of a combination of influences from random events that occurred over the centuries.

One of the best books I've ever come across on the subject is Gothic: Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele. The stunning coffee table book, first published a year ago, traces goth from its Eastern Germanic tribal roots to modern-day black-clad teenagers and sexually-charged vampire fiction.

Steele, chief curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, takes the magnifying glass to haute goth as seen through the eyes of designers John Galliano, Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen. It's a fascinating, visual journey through the aesthetics of the macabre.

Some of you might recall, the original Goths were warmongers who tried to take down the Roman Empire in Istanbul, thousands of years before Dracula lost his head to the sultans. I find it particularly interesting that today's goths have nominated Dracula as their token villain. At least at Topkapi Palace, there's a connection. A column commemorates the Roman victory over the Goths.

In fashion, goth is still one of the most effective ways to communicate rebellion and subculture. It's shocking. Unsettling. The fashion equivalent of a good scare on Halloween. Just the kind of buttons, designers like to push. Take London designer Gareth Pugh's spring 2010 collection, pictured above.

The Fashion Statement: Paris Celebrates Halloween Early?

Filed under: The Fashion Statement


Far be it from me to criticize designers when they get creative, try something new or push the envelope. That's fashion.

But, is it me, or are designers presenting collections in Paris this week getting downright costume-y? More than a few of them have gone from subtle references in their collections to frighteningly literal representations of sea creatures, Roman gladiators or whatever else inspires them.

Take Louis Vuitton's show yesterday. Marc Jacobs used giant Afro wigs-the kind you'd pick up on the Halloween aisle-in his presentation. Disappointingly, the Afros were the only things unifying the collection comprised of everything but the kitchen sink (Davy Crockett fur, American Indian accessories, military looks, hippie, club kid, etc.).

Alexander McQueen called his show Plato's Atlantis. With hair sculpted into reptilian fins, models walked by in oversize platformed shoes that looked like heads-scary in more ways than one (you could probably break an ankle in those things). Reptilian patterns, scales and otherworldly silhouettes brought home the idea that we all came from ancient creatures of the deep.

It was a chainsaw massacre at Viktor & Rolf. Paying homage to the economy, the duo took a chainsaw to tulle gowns, cocktail gowns and jackets. To be fair, you expect this sort of thing from these fashion pranksters. These guys have been poking fun at the industry for years (and laughing all the way to the bank).









The Fashion Statement: Hoof It

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



Among those of us who've lived through harem pants back in the Eighties, some just can't go there again. We get it.

Thankfully, there's an alternative: jodhpurs. Much like harem pants, crotches on jodhpurs hang low, hips are full and pants are slim from knee to ankle-this is the pant silhouette for fall and is showing up on traditional trousers albeit to a lesser extreme-with the added bonus that you don't hear You Can't Touch This ringing in your head. Instead, enter images of Jackie O.

Belgian husband-and-wife team An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx of A.F. Vandevorst got all horsey on us. Like modern day centaurs, models trotted out in jodhpurs sporting platform boots that looked like hooves. The line includes horse-blanket striped blouses and body jewelry that resembles bridles (see above).

Brit bad boy Alexander McQueen was all about jodhpurs and riding jackets ripped straight from the English countryside in his pre-fall collection. He showed the looks with small top-hats and riding crops which, to the delight of McQueen fans, had a slight S&M effect.

Coming off a Middle Eastern theme last spring, Polo Ralph Lauren went back to its WASP-y, to-the-manor-born roots presenting velvet and tweed jodhpurs topped with proper vests (the label's classic trousers looked like something out of Horse and Hound). Or did it?

Alexander McQueen Houndstooth Tote, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

While it might be fun to buy this bag now you'll probably want to wait a few weeks for cooler weather to wear it since it's made of wool. It's a fun (albeit busy) creation by Alexander McQueen of varying houndstooth patterns meeting all haphazard with patent leather accents like corner protectors, pockets with snaps and zippers, and double handles attached via buckle. Black and white with no top closure and two more pockets in the red cotton-lined interior (you might need a map to remember where you stashed everything!). $1,995

Sunday Real Estate Round-Up, 08/02/09

Filed under: Estates, Celebrity Shopping

From the Wall Street Journal's Private Properties:
--Nascar driver Jimmie Johnson has put his New York city condo on the market for $4.4 million. He bought the loft in 2007 for $3.98 million. The listing is here.
--Bruce Livingstone, who founded online stock-photography provider iStockphoto has paid $2.5 million for a landmark midcentury Los Angeles home. Livingstone bought the house in an all-cash deal that included much of the artwork and furnishings.
--Prison-industry veteran Tom Beasley has put his Tennessee ranch, shown above, on the market for $10 million. The listing is here.

From Cityfile's Buyers and Sellers:
--Philanthropists Amnon and Caren Heller Barness have cut the price of their four-bedroom penthouse at Trump Park Avenue. It was listed last year for $15 million and is now $12.5 million. The listing is here.
--via the Real Deal, author Gary Shteyngart's one-bedroom apartment at 575 Grand Street, which he put on the market for $450,000 and was most recently listed at $425,000 has gone to contract.
--Developer Charles Yassky has put his townhouse back on the market. He bought 122 East 78th Street in mid-2008 for $13.2 million, put it back on the market with Paula Del Nunzio just two weeks later for $18.9 million, before dropping the price to $16.9 million in November but now it is back for $18.9 million. The listing is here.
--via the Real Deal, Roberta Campbell, the wife of former Intuit CEO William Campbell, has paid $17.5 million for an 11th-floor condo at 15 Central Park West.
--via the NY Times, Peter Rockefeller, a Rockefeller heir and managing director at Berkshire Capital, and his wife Allison have picked up a duplex apartment at 130 East 67th Street for $3.5 million, 56 percent less than what the 10-room co-op was first listed for in June 2008.


From the NY Observer's Manhattan Transfers:
--Celebrity divorce attorney Robert Cohen and his wife, Stephanie Stiefel have paid $4.4 million for a two-bedroom apartment at One Beekman Place.
--Arlene Farkas, the ex-wife of real estate heir Bruce Farkas, has dropped the price of her 14-room duplex at the River House from $15 million to $13.5 million. The listing is here.
--The New York City apartment where Josh Hartnett was recently living is now for sale for $2.1 million. The listing is here.
--Miami trial lawyer James Ferraro has paid $8.175 million for Related chairman David Wine's 2,600-square-foot penthouse apartment at the Park Imperial on West 56th Street.
--Jeff Urwin, the former co-head of investment banking at Bear Stearns, has taken $6.75 million off the price of his townhouse at 15 East 80th Street. The 21-foot-wide house is now listed for $26 million. The listing is here.
--Brokers from top Manhattan brokerages were recently brought to Bernie Madoff's NYC penthouse to audition for the right to the listing. It should be up for sale soon.

From Newsday's Real LI:
--Swan Cove, the East Hamptons estate that belonged to late actress Mary Howard de Liagre has gone to contract. The six-bedroom house had been listed for $22.5 million. The listing is here.
--The 2009 Hampton Designer Showhouse in Water Mill, New York has gone into contract for close to its $8.495 million asking price.
--A nearly 25-acre compound in Shelter Island owned by the Passionist order of priests has gone on sale for $19.9 million. The Passionists decided to leave the property because they no longer have the personnel to operate the center and need to sell the land to help pay for health care for their aging members.

From the NY Post's Gimme Shelter:
--Bruce Willis and his wife lingerie-model wife Emma Heming have been spotted apartment hunting around Columbus Circle.
--The first lot of Sagaponack Greens -- a 40-acre subdivision in the Hamptons-- is finally in contract. Sagaponack Greens consists of eight lots, ranging from 1.4 to 2.3 acres, plus a 25-acre agricultural reserve. The largest of the lots went for around $5 million last week.
--Goldman Sachs executive Gerald Messier just rented the penthouse at 20 Pine St. in the Financial District at $10,500 a month for a year. The owner of the condo is radio psychologist Dr. Joy Browne.

From the LA Times Hot Property:
--British pop singer-songwriter Natasha Bedingfield has purchased a home in the Los Feliz area for $2.3 million.
--Actress Melissa Joan Hart has sold her Sherman Oaks home for close to $2.5 million.
--Dreamwork producer David Lipman is selling his Hollywood Hills residence that he calls "the house Shrek built." It is listed at $2.195 million.

From the Real Estalker:
--: Alexander McQueen has listed his home in East London for : £1,700,000.

McQueen Knuckle Duster Patent Leather Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

clutch
I've never considered a handbag could double as a self-defense mechanism, unless it had a brick inside or something equally heavy, but Alexander McQueen's Knuckle Duster Patent Leather Clutch would certainly bring more than a slap to an unwelcome visitor's body. Accenting the top ridge of this richly covered bag are skull and crystal rings in dark colors adding a subtle bit of glamour. The bag does feature more than protective embellishments such as a clasp closure, metal frame and leather lining.

Have you ever put your thumb through a ring connecting your handbag's handle to the body of the bag for protection from muggers along a busy street? Well just slip your fingers through these rings atop your clutch and I'd bet you'd deter any interested parties from attempting to swipe your clutch now. Enough violent fun for one day...

(7" x 41/2" x 2" for $1,595 at Saks)

Crystal-Print Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags


There's no easier way to punch up an outfit than with a burst of bright color, and this jewel-toned blue number by Alexander McQueen is a perfect example of that. The Crystal-print Clutch is made of multi-colored satin twill printed in a geometric crystal pattern that's highlighted with silver hardware. Styled with a fold-over flap top that closes magnetically, it also features a zipped pocket on the back and a black-lined interior. Plus in true clutch fashion it has no strap, removable or otherwise. $540

McQueen Wishbone Shopper, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags


How can you not love a bag that's described as "fringed and fabulous?" This Leather Woven Wishbone Shopper by Alexander McQueen earns that description and as a result must be carried with bold confidence or you won't be able to pull it off. The large slouchy shape of woven leather is accented with tassel fringing, silver wishbone rivets, stitched edging, and basketweave detailing on the front and back. It has a single handle on the top and is fully lined. A perfect break from the usual spring pastels and brights. $6,380

Neon Panel Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

mcqueen neon panel clutch
This is a bright, bold clutch that certainly will not go with anything. It's probably very limited in terms of what it will coordinate with, unless I'm being too close-minded or you're a lot riskier than I am in your fashion choices. But regardless of when or how you carry it, this Neon Panel Clutch by Alexander McQueen is sure to make a statement. Black patent leather with bright pink geometric panels give this bag its slightly retro vibe, plus its large size (13" x 7" x 3") means it will have plenty of room for stashing all of your essentials. $1,070

Alexander McQueen's Spring 2009 Stilettos

Filed under: Shoes

Runway fashion shows are fun because the styles are so extreme, and then it's always interesting to see how the designs get toned down later for sale to the mainstream public. The shoes in Alexander McQueen's Spring 2009 collection are no exception, providing lots of artistic flair and totally unwearable (in the real world anyway) style. My favorites are these crystal boots -- look at that gorgeous heel -- and my least favorites are these incredibly ugly and unflattering heels that are made to look like your toes are pressing through the leather. Yeah, gotta love the "my shoes are totally too small" look.

Ltd. Edition Chivas Regal Bottle by Alexander McQueen

Filed under: Spirits

British fashion star Alexander McQueen has designed a limited edition "couture" bottle of Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old Gold Signature Scotch for the holidays. McQueen's design features royal blue leather detailing and comes topped with a hand-enameled blue, red and gold cap.

"This is a piece of art which reflects the luxury and craftsmanship values of what haute couture is all about," McQueen tells Vogue UK. "You can see my signature 'stamp' with the blue leather 'dress' and the Union Jack colors. I have created a rare collector's item that those with an eye for design will want to keep."

Only 2,000 individually numbered bottles are being produced and will be available exclusively from deluxe UK department store Selfridges, for about $500.

Samsonite Black Label Collection for the Holidays

Filed under: Gadgets


Alexander McQueen's design for Samsonite's Black Label Collection has recently added a new holiday look in silver for the Hero Al1 and Travel Al2 pieces. The unique ribcage design of the Hero bag was inspired by the human torso which protects our precious internal organs and is complete with a backbone on the opposite side of the bag. Prices on the original pieces range from $775 to $900 but perhaps the metallic shell will increase the price...I'm not sure. This limited edition version will be released in November at all Samsonite stores. Check out the gallery for the rest of this great collection.

Vince Launches e-Commerce

Filed under: Apparel

Vince, the brand that focuses on what it calls "luxe staples" --mostly cashmere sweaters and comfy separates -- has today launched its e-commerce site. Joining the ranks of recent designers flocking to the interwebs (including such high-enders as Alexander McQueen and Oscar de la Renta), Vince is attempting a more direct relationship with its customers, as it also opens a store in New York this winter. The brand opened two stores in Los Angeles recently on Robertson and Melrose Place.

Vince will also continue to be available at all the usual suspects, Barney's, Bergdorf's, Lane Crawford, et al.

Alexander McQueen's Take on Western, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags


I've mentioned Zappos Luxe Life before. Now and then I browse the store to see what's new in the Couture section, and recently I found a bag that I really like for fall. Usually Alexander McQueen is too way out for me, but I think this Western-inspired patent bag is great for the days when you break out the jeans and boots but want a nice bag to polish the look. The burgundy and gold bag is made of of patent leather. It's 14" wide across the bottom, 9.5" wide across the top, 5.5" deep and 10" high, enough room for wallet, keys, sunglasses, lipstick and personal technology. The handle drop is 5". Other features: a front exterior slip pocket, platform bottom, top zip closure and a luxurious interior lining with a back wall zip pocket and multifunctional slip pockets. Comes with a protective dust bag. $2,569; free shipping and returns from Zappos.

Alexander McQueen Elvie Tote, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags


In all its envy-inspiring green python is Alexander McQueen's newest addition to the Elvie line, a framed tote with ladylike handles and gold hardware. Available exclusively at Net-a-Porter yet not to shoppers in California (where shipping python only makes for a fashionable six months in the county jail), the bag features a turn lock to secure its contents. It's lined in brown suede and has a small zippered pocket inside. The bag retails for $5,380.

If python isn't your thing (or endangered species are), you can find a black patent version over at Harvey Nic's.


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