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The Fashion Statement: Bootie Call

Filed under: Shoes, The Fashion Statement

sergio rossi heels

Italian luxury shoe purveyor Sergio Rossi is commemorating the Cannes Film Festival in a few weeks with an evening sandal made of crystals adorning a soft suede net (pictured above). You can get the limited-edition shoes Sergio Rossi boutiques in Milan, Rome, Paris and London. Personally, I don't miss the diamonds (as in some red-carpet publicity shoes of yore). And, not surprisingly, Sergio Rossi's silhouette of choice? A quasi bootie.

In fact, shoe designers are increasingly pushing creativity to the max, as anyone who has seen this season's Alexander McQueen's armadillo shoes or the Gucci's caged ankle boots can attest. And most designs, whether designers call them sandals, pumps or platforms, are centered upon the bootie concept.

For those of you who've been living under a rock lately, the bootie or shootie or ankle boots or whatever you'd like to call them, are high-heeled boots cropped off at the ankle. It is THE shoe of the moment and they've been around for the past few seasons. Even if the shoe is considered a sandal, the modern look is a foot that's strapped up, buckled up, wrapped up in silk and, generally speaking, hidden from plain view. In other words, anything that gives the impression of a bootie.




The Fashion Statement: Alexander McQueen's Final Show

Filed under: The Fashion Statement

alexander mcqueen fashion

A handful of fashion editors got a look at Alexander McQueen's last, unfinished collection on Tuesday, making them acutely aware of the genius the industry has lost.

The 16-piece collection, half of what was supposed to have been shown in Paris this week, was 80 percent finished on Feb. 11 when the designer hanged himself at his London apartment at the age of 40. He had been reportedly distraught by his mother's death and there were rumors of a failed love relationship. Sarah Burton, who worked with McQueen for more than a decade, finished his work.

The presentation was set to opera music the designer was listening to when he was working recently. It was "solemn, funereal and even a little spooky," according to Women's Wear Daily.

Editors said the show was difficult to watch because it was soon clear that McQueen was fixated on the afterlife. The clothes had medieval and religious overtones and suggested battles between angels and demons-themes that take on significantly more meaning in light of McQueen's death. With pale faces and wearing bronze skull caps, models glided out in Jacquards and silks on which Old Master paintings by Botticelli, Hieronymus Bosch and Jean Fouquet were digitally transferred. One print portrayed hell and damnation while another featured doves. A skull, a signature of McQueen's, showed up in this collection crushed and broken.


Alexander McQueen Love Red Faithful Satchel

Filed under: Handbags

The Red Faithful Satchel by Alexander McQueen has an understated elegance mixed with real life usability that makes it so appealing. It has a top handle, adjustable shoulder strap, a fold over flap that zips up to secure your items and several exterior pockets. With those essential features wrapped in a candy colored red leather to add some spice to your outfit, the Red Faithful Satchel has versatility and long lasting appeal. Price: $1480.

Alexander McQueen Thriller Faithful Glove Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Alexander McQueen Thriller Faithful Glove ClutchCarry this handbag and pay tribute to both the late Alexander McQueen and his inspiration for this piece: the iconic Michael Jackson. McQueen's Thriller Faithful Glove Clutch is a black whipsnake design clutch that features two angled zipper pockets and a white fingerless glove embellished with white Swarovski crystals on the front. The glove is attached to the bag with a snap and is (presumably) removable. The interior is fully lined in purple/plum with one inside zipper pocket and has a snap closure. Certainly an accessory meant to start a conversation. $1,920

Alexander McQueen De-Manta Clutch

Filed under: Handbags

Lee McQueen of fashion house Alexander McQueen was an outrageously expressive designer. He had an uncanny ability to push his creativity and transform clothing and accessories into works of art. One of our favorite McQueen pieces is the De-Manta Clutch from his Spring 2010 runway show. It's a combination of off-the-wall, eye popping color and jaw dropping patterns against an unexpected silhouette. The De-Manta Clutch is your statement bag to put all other bags to shame. I find myself mesmerized by it. I envision all the outfits and occasions I could possibly wear it to. However, the De-Manta Clutch has such a striking appearance, that you can easily incorporate this bold clutch with a simple outfit like jeans, a great fitting black v-neck t-shirt, and pumps - and with this one accessory, the entire outfit becomes a stand out.

The Fashion Statement: Fashion Week's a Wrap

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



New York fashion week, which ends here today, will unfortunately be remembered as 1) the week during which Alexander McQueen committed suicide and 2) the last time Bryant Park hosted the shows.

As tragic as the loss of McQueen was, in particular, life went on as did the designers in the tents and elsewhere in the city. Here, a few highlights from the week:

Rodarte, shown above, looked as if heavy salvaged pieces of fabric had been caught up by a stiff fall wind and wrapped its wearer in bohemian luxe. Ironically, the Mulleavy sister design duo chose fall to lighten up with bright colors and florals, a stark contrast to the black goth-like collection they presented for spring.

Boyfriends and husbands, beware of closet raids. Preen set the tone for the new blazer silhouette -- a masculine and longer-body -- worn with a belt or not. After seasons of tight and short blazers, this roomier style looks just right.

Michael Quintanilla, a journalist friend of mine I bumped into after Donna Karan, made the comment that only the work of a master can transform basic black pieces into a phenomenal collection. Karan is such a master. Black off-the-shoulder gowns, black cocoon coats and black blazers accented with leather patches were simply gorgeous. The designer carefully punctuated the show with fuchsia coats and teal cocktail dresses that, against all that black, were all the more eye-popping.


A Fashion World Loss: Alexander McQueen Commits Suicide

Filed under: Apparel


Lee McQueen, founder of fashion house Alexander McQueen and one of the most respected fashion designers in the world, has been found dead in his London home. Though the circumstances surrounded McQueen's death have not been confirmed, it is believed the 40 year old fashion phenom may have taken his own life.

"On behalf of Lee McQueen's family, Alexander McQueen today announces the tragic news that
Lee McQueen, the founder and designer of the Alexander McQueen brand has been found dead at his home," said a spokesperson for Alexander McQueen. "At this stage it is inappropriate to comment on this tragic news beyond saying that we are devastated and are sharing a sense of shock and grief with Lee's family."

To be sure, McQueen had a remarkable career, having entered it at a very young age. In 1996, when he was in his late 20's, he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy. He worked there until 2001, leaving to launch his own company.

McQueen was long known for both the emotional power and raw energy of his fashion shows as well as the romantic but contemporary nature of his collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity and fluidity and severity. His collections combined an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

Born in 1969, McQueen grew up in London, the youngest of six children. He dropped out of school at age 16 and to apprentice at two traditional Saville Row tailors where he learned about the technical construction of clothing. His next career move was to Angels and Bermans, designers of theatrical costumes, where he learned and mastered six methods of pattern cutting, from that used during the melodramatic 16th Century to the razor sharp tailoring which is now his signature style. After several other career moves, including a stint in Milan, McQueen received a Masters degree in Fashion Design at St. Martins. McQueen has received the British Designer of the year award four times, the International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designer's of America (2003) and GQ's Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2007.

In 2000, 51% of Alexander McQueen was acquired by the Gucci Group, where until his death, he served as Creative Director. His collections include women's ready-to-wear, Men's ready-to-wear, accessories, eyewear and fragrance. Flagship stores are found in New York, London and Milan. Alexander McQueen collections are distributed in more than 39 countries through 194 wholesale accounts including specialty shops and better department stores. In December, Alexander McQueen was a nominee for a Luxist Award in the Best Clothing Designer category.

Alexander McQueen Leather Union Jack Clutch, Handbag of the Day

Filed under: Handbags

Leathe Union Jack Clutch Alexander McQueen
Patent leather in a bright hue of royal blue meets with shiny silvertone hardware and a hardcore silver skull to blend pretty with tough in the Leather Union Jack Clutch by Alexander McQueen. This hardbox style clutch is paneled with a union jack design and has a matching royal blue leather lining on the interior. The push-fastening skull closure features transparent crystal embellishments and dark pink glass pearl eyes (although they look gray/black to me). No detachable handle, no interior pockets, just straightforward style in true clutch form. A great way to incorporate the current skull trend into your wardrobe. $1,350

Alexander McQueen Ostrich Leather Skull Wallet

Filed under: Men's Style


Bad boy British designer Alexander McQueen has come out with one of the most exclusive men's accessories he's ever produced, an exotic ostrich leather wallet with an embossed skull. Priced at about $500, the piece is finished in genuine brown ostrich skin with protective metal edging and a black leather interior. Inside are four credit card slots, a coin compartment and two banknote pockets. Ostrich leather is highly prized for its soft finish and recognizable pattern of quill sockets. McQueen, who often uses skulls in his designs, also offers the motif on shirts, sweaters, scarves, cufflinks, belts and rings, a macabre trend which New York magazine notes is on the rise.

Readers' Choice Award Nominees for Best in Accessories

Filed under: Handbags, Jewelry, Timepieces / Watches

Best Jewelry Line
Each of the Readers' Choice nominees for Best Jewelry Line is a leader in the industry. One is not only known for its signature jewelry, but also for the blue box that it comes in. Another is known for its handcrafted pieces, but it is also known for its many innovations. Another nominee is a newer designer on the scene who is inspired by Florentine jewelry-making, but also astronomy, celestial, mythological and astrological influences. Another nominee is synonymous with glamour and fame and has ties to some of the world's most famous jewels. Finally, there's a nominee known for the panache of its founder, as well as its vast collection of the world's finest diamonds.
Graff Diamonds
Harry Winston
Temple St. Clair
Tiffany & Co.
Van Cleef & Arpels

Best Watch Line
The Readers' Choice for the Best Watch Line nominees include a perennially favored brand among the watch-loving elite that is known for making the most complex wrist watch in the world. Another nominee is known for its functionally-themed luxury sport watches. The third nominee, while an historic brand with almost 200 years of heritage, is known for being a forward focused luxury watch maker of the future. A fourth nominee is perhaps the best-known luxury watch brand in the world, with a stellar reputation to match. Lastly, there's a watchmaker that epitomizes Swiss haute horology with its modern classics and technical innovation.
Audemars Piguet
IWC
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Patek Philippe
Rolex

Best Leathergoods Line
The Readers' Choice for the Best Leathergoods Line for a Luxist Award include award-winning brands from France, Italy and London. One started out making equestrian equipment in 1837, and still makes its goods by hand; some of its handbags are so coveted, there's a two-year long wait list to buy one. Another was started in London by a former fashion editor who partnered with a couture shoe maker to create a company now synonymous with the "red carpet". The third nominee is known for its clean lines and simple classic color palettes while the fourth is a global force of tradition and innovation. And finally, the last nominee epitomizes luxury with its delectable designer bags and vaunted luggage--some of which command five figure prices.
Bottega Veneta
Gucci
Hermes
Jimmy Choo
Louis Vuitton

Best Department Store/Boutique
Nominees for Readers' Choice for Best Department Store/Boutique include one based in London that has no fewer than 330 different departments, a staff of 5,000 from 50 different countries and is visited by as many as 300,000 people on a single day. Another, with roots in Texas, is known for its superior customer service, in addition to its luxury merchandise, including some of the world's most extravagant items. One New York-based store has a shoe department that is so large, it was given its own zip code. Another Manhattan-based store specializes in hard-to-find international designers, many of which it will help launch into fame. Lastly, there's an upstart from London that is so cutting-edge and up-to-date, it launches 300 new styles on a weekly basis.
Barneys New York
Harrods
Neiman Marcus
Saks Fifth Avenue
Top Shop

Best Clothing Designer
Readers' Choice nominees for Best Clothing Designer are award-winning fashion designers from Italy, England, France and the United States. One was started by a wunderkind who was named chief designer of one of the most respected fashion houses when he was still in his 20's. Another has been one of the leading names in fashion for nearly 100 years. A third nominee, known for its timeless style, has outfitted First Ladies on both sides of the aisle for decades while the fourth is famed for its understated elegance. The final nominee is synonymous with high fashion though its roots are in luggage and leather goods.
Alexander McQueen
Chanel
Gucci
Oscar de la Renta
Prada

Luxist Gift Guide 09: Hi-Lo Gladiator Skirt

Filed under: Apparel, Holiday Guides

In our book Alexander McQueen can do no wrong (as long as he stays out of Target). His 2010 S/S show wowed us with a mix of reptilian sea mammals, created with computer generated prints. Our favorite piece, however, from the Lady Gaga-inspired show, was this hot little leather gladiator skirt. Leave it to McQueen to get us off of gladiator sandals once and for all, and wow us again with his apocalyptic couture. It's the perfect gift for your little vixen.

Check out a less-expensive option after the jump.

The Fashion Statement: It's a Cinch!

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



Women's Wear Daily, the so-called bible of the fashion industry and my former employer, wrote an interesting article this week about how corset sales are up in the U.K. thanks to the influence of Rihanna (above) and Lady Gaga.

The piece said women in London are snapping up corsets in the intimates departments and wearing them to the discos. It's such the rage, Selfridges Oxford Street posted a 70 percent increase in sales in November compared with the same month last year. The article goes on to say that the trend of underwear worn as outerwear is more popular that ever.

Rihanna and Lady Gaga are not the first divas to go corset crazy, of course. The corset, which has existed in womenswear for hundreds of years, now represents sex, fetish, bondage, body modifications -- all the good racy stuff that shocks us and slightly turns us off and really turns us on. It worked for Madonna. Why not Rihanna and Lady Gaga? And why not a million other girls?

In my 15 years covering the fashion, I've always suspected the edgiest fashion (streetwear, rock and roll, punk) appears to change more slowly than conservative fashion (contemporary, designer). Because it doesn't have to. Spikes always provoke us. Punk hair that resembles a frill-necked dragon always pushes our buttons. Exposed body parts always unnerve us just a little (OK, maybe not all of us). Corsets always work. Every time.

There are a few other masters of the shock game and all of them make ample use of the corset. Jean Paul Gaultier, of course, through Madonna in the '80s as I mentioned.

Gucci: Synonymous with High Fashion

Filed under: Apparel, Shoes


From the model-patrolled runways of Milan to the chic streets of New York, Gucci is synonymous with high fashion. The Italian designer outfits opulent consumers of all stripes -- financiers, socialites and celebrities -- making it an obvious candidate for a Luxist award in the Best Clothing Designer category, in addition to a nomination for Best in Leathergoods.

Founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Gucci began as a luggage and leather goods store. Guccio Gucci drew on years of experience working at London's Savoy Hotel and observing the proclivities of English nobles, combining this sensibility with his own Italian fashion sense in his early work, a theme that still runs strong at Gucci today.

Though Gucci struggled to find materials as World War II raged through Europe, the scrappy founder was able to stay afloat by creating products like the "Bamboo Bag" from the resources available. The postwar years brought expansion to Milan and New York, and, sadly, the death of Guccio Gucci. His sons would take over the business and continue to guide it along the path to becoming an international fashion powerhouse, expanding to Hong Kong and Tokyo. The designer became a favorite of fashionable and legendary celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Onassis Kennedy.

Guccio Gucci's aesthetic persists, a lasting legacy for the founder. The company boasts talented designers like Frida Giannini, who was named sole creative director in 2006. In addition to Gucci, Gucci Group also owns Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney and Yves Saint Laurent. It directly operates 560 stores around the world.

Cast your vote for the Readers' Choice Awards at http://www.luxist.com/awards-vote/accessories-awards.

Alexander McQueen: Romantic and Contemporary

Filed under: Apparel

Alexander McQueen is a nominee for a Readers' Choice Award for Best Clothing Line. McQueen is one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In 1996, when he was in only his late 20's, he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy. He worked there until 2001, leaving to launch his own company.

McQueen is known for both the emotional power and raw energy of his fashion shows as well as the romantic but contemporary nature of his collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the justaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity and fluidity and severity. His collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

Born in 1969, McQueen grew up in London, the youngest of six children. He dropped out of school at age 16 and to apprentice at two traditional Saville Row tailors where he learned about the technical construction of clothing. His next career move was to Angels and Bermans, designers of theatrical costumes, where he learned and mastered six methods of pattern cutting, from that used during the melodramatic 16th Century to the razor sharp tailoring which is now his signature style. After several other career moves, including a stint in Milan, McQueen received a Masters degree in Fashion Design at St. Martins. McQueen has received the British Designer of the year award four times, the International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designer's of America (2003) and GQ's Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2007.

In 2000, 51% of Alexander McQueen was acquired by the Gucci Group, where he remains to this day as Creative Director. Collections include women's ready-to-wear, Men's ready-to-wear, accessories, eyewear and fragrance. Flagship stores are found in New York, London and Milan. Alexander McQueen collections are now distributed in more than 39 countries through 194 wholesale accounts including specialty shops and better department stores.

Cast your vote for the Readers' Choice Awards at http://www.luxist.com/awards-vote/accessories-awards.

The Fashion Statement: What Do You Do, Roopal Patel?

Filed under: The Fashion Statement



As Fashion Editor at Neiman Marcus, Roopal Patel has one of the coolest jobs on the planet. I asked the fashion insider about the biggest fashion mistake people make and what she thinks are the hottest upcoming trends.

Q. What does a fashion editor for a major departments store do?

A. I scout up and coming talent and designers for the store, provide trend direction for the season and help translate that vision into our merchandise assortments with our buyers. It is important for the store to have one consistent message.

Q. What are the most popular trends for resort and spring 2010?

A. Not to give away the highly-coveted list that Senior VP/Fashion Director Ken Downing issues at the beginning of every season but ...blue is the color for both resort and spring. Neiman Marcus is embracing all shades of blue for every category. Tribal fusion was on every runway this season. Look to Givenchy for some of the must-have tribal print wedges and platforms of the season. The nude shoe is the new neutral of the season. The Fendi platform sandal [pictured above] is a must on our list.

Q. What is the most unusual fashion item you've seen in your career?

A. I am always amazed at how high the heel heights are at runway shows and how they get higher with every season. The models make it look so easy. The shoes at Alexander McQueen spring 2010 were over the top!

Q. Has Neiman Marcus changed in response to the economic climate? If so, how?

A. For the holidays, we have our "Little Gems" shop that features presents and gifts for under $100. There are also great [inexpensive] items in many of our designer collections. I found a silver stud pyramid ring from Stephen Webster for $275 and a great David Yurman silver infinity ring at $275.

Q. What is your favorite item in The Christmas Book?

A. I cannot help but to smile when I see the customized cupcake car. It's so original and unique. I also cannot wait to get my hands on the sequined leggings from La Rok and the John Hardy cuff bracelet for evening holiday sparkle.

Q. What is the one thing that makes a look?

A. The right accessory. The perfect handbag or shoes can change your look in seconds.

Q. What is the one common fashion mistake people make?

A. The only mistake one can make is not having fun with your wardrobe. Enjoy and translate the trends that work best for you.

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