A Continuous Lean

Classic British outdoor clothing company Barbour has teamed up with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida to launch a new limited edition capsule collection for Autumn Winter '09. J. Barbour & Sons, known for their iconic waxed jackets, was founded in 1894 and holds Royal Warrants from HM Queen Elizabeth II, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh, and HRH The Prince of Wales. A graduate of Kuwasawa Design School, Tokihito previously designed for companies including Blades Savile Row in Japan before founding his own brand, To Ki To, in 1997. Consisting of five waxed and three waterproof jackets for men, the inspiration for the new To Ki To range came from Barbour's rich archive, which goes as far back as 1908, along with technical innovations and a modern fit.

Tokihito is renowned for the detail that he adds to his garments and he has taken Barbour's distinctive style and added his own signature design to create a unique collection that includes a wax Trench Coat, Bicycle, Horse Riding (above), Motor Riding and Driving jackets. Special features include zip on/zip off detachable helmet-style hoods, detachable padded vests, water-resistant map pockets, and integral storm skirts. On the trench coat, the vent and the front of the jacket combine to make a pair of "culottes" with the button features. Pricing has not been announced but Michael Williams at A Continuous Lean tags it at about $799 - $999 apiece.

This past holiday season we broke out the black tie as usual, for what's become basically an annual airing. This got us musing on subjects sartorial and formal attire in particular; then Michael Williams, author of the genius men's style blog A Continuous Lean, pointed us to a page on Ralph Lauren's website for his Rugby line citing the brilliant 1990 movie Metropolitan by Whit Stillman as inspiration. Describing the film (scene pictured above) as "a pitch-perfect examination of our two favorite things: urbane style and preppy angst," Lauren's site declares it can also be viewed as a textbook on how to wear black tie (are you listening, Barack Obama?).

With Metropolitan as a frame of reference, the Rugby writers list a set of rules for stylish evening attire. As Stillman's a good friend of ours, we asked him for his views on the tribute. Actually, he told us, "When we were preparing Metropolitan there was a great two page Ralph Lauren ad running in magazines that we clipped and showed around to illustrate the style the film would aspire to." So, in a way, Stillman notes, "Ralph Lauren influenced the film before it might have inspired Rugby."

And while he says that both the Rubgy site and its commenters "did a good job discussing the film," Stillman takes issue with their 2nd rule for sporting black tie, which states: "You don't need to wear a cummerbund with a tuxedo - that's a personal choice. If you lose the cummerbund, wear suspenders (never a belt), and don't forget that they need not be black; in fact, they probably shouldn't be." Stillman insists that, in fact, "either a cummerbund or waistcoat is required, and suspenders should be worn with either, as with no belt the laws of gravity must be resisted." There you have it, straight from the master (and we fully concur).



We neither of us have any quarrel with Rugby's rule #5, however, which states the following: "You should look sharp in your tux, but there will come a point in the night when jackets are off, ties are undone and anything goes (as evidenced in the movie). If, while wearing your tux, you're invited to dance a rumba: you do. If you're asked to play strip poker: you do. And if you're forced into a fistfight with a count of dubious provenance: by all means, do. Just try not to get any blood on your sweet threads, ok?"

Meanwhile, it seems that Ralph and Rugby aren't the only ones channeling Whit; the hit TV show Gossip Girl also seems to be taking some cues from Metropolitan. Of course, with such an influential film any really comprehensive list of appropriators would have be an extremely long one.