The Fashion Statement

The Fashion Statement: Stripes, Polka Dots and Plaids

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Mar 31st 2011 at 6:01PM

'Tis the season to break out your spring wardrobe (if old man winter would ever go away). But if you don't have this season's take on stripes, polka dots and plaids, get thee to a boutique toute de suite. This is not a time for wallflowers.

These prints have very little in common with the classics. This year, designers painted stripes with a bold brush, used variously-sized polka dots head-to-toe, and paired plaids with floral blouses.

The key is to break every rule your mother taught you: Mix and match patterns. Select stripes in contrasting colors, pair the polka dots with stripes and spice up florals with any geometric design. Just make sure the contrasting patterns have a consistent theme, use the same color palette, or same motif.

Prada and Jil Sander presented some of the best collections of the season. Sander sent out a floor-length gown contrasting vertical black-and-sheer stripes on the bodice with the skirt's pink-and-white horizontal stripes. Prada took a white blouse with a navy monkey print and paired it with a black-and-fuchsia striped skirt. That same skirt served as the foundation for a blue-white-black-green striped top.

Tags: Dolce and Gabbana, Jil Sander, Louis Vuitton, Moschino, plaids, polka dots, Prada, Spring 2011, Spring 2011 Fashion Week, stripes, The Devils Cloth, The Fashion Statement

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The Fashion Statement: The Shirtwaist's Enduring Influence

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Mar 24th 2011 at 4:01PM

I read with interest Ruth La Ferla's article in the New York Times about the shirtwaist.

As you may have heard by now, Friday marks the 100th anniversary of one of the worst workplace tragedies in history -- the Triangle Waist Company fire where 146 people, mostly women, were killed in a New York garment factory. The factory was one of the largest makers of the shirtwaist. That event changed the labor movement forever, not to mention mandated laws like sprinkler systems and unlocked exits in public areas.

As newspapers and TV documentaries chronicle this terrible turn-of-the-century event, some people have asked me, "What exactly is a shirtwaist?"

As La Ferla points out in the Times, the shirtwaist was all the rage in America at the turn of the century. It was a combination of a tailored shirt and a skirt that showed a bit of leg (it would show even more leg years later). The shirtwaist began to take on historical significance in fashion. After the fire, it signified women's demands for better working conditions and a kind of liberation.

Several decades later, it morphed into Dior's famous New Look of the '40s, typified the way most women dressed in the '50s (think: Donna Reed) and, later that same decade, became an emblem of the civil rights movement.

Tags: apparel, fashion, shirtwaist, The Fashion Statement, Triangle Waist Company

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The Fashion Statement: The Plight of Japanese Designers

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Mar 17th 2011 at 1:45PM

Lakme Fashion Week Japanese Designers Designs

Normally, Tokyo follows India in the global fashion week calendar. But in the wake of the earthquake, the tsunami and nuclear explosions that rocked the country, shows were canceled. Although Tokyo wasn't directly hit by catastrophe, the decision to halt the shows came down to an iffy electricity supply, transportation snafus and the safety of attendees.

Yet some of Japan's top designers showcased their collections at Lakme Fashion Week (pictured above) in India. Tokyoeye, an initiative by Japan's Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, brought the best of Japanese fashion talent to India. Designers Motonari Ono, Tamae Hirokawa and Sara Arai showed on the very day the tsunami hit their home country.

Arai, implemented a dying art from Japan called Yohenzomei, in the form of a fabric that changes color under light. She hoped to make an impact on India in order to "send cheer back to her countrymen." Designers Hirokawa and Ono noted that they were influenced by their country's traditional weaves and craftsmanship.

Tags: apparel, fashion, Japanese designers, Junko Shimada, Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate for Commuun, Lakme Fashion Week, Motonari Ono, Sara Arai, Tamae Hirokawa, Tokyo Fashion Week, Tokyoeye, Tsumori Chisato, Yohji Yamamoto

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The Fashion Statement: The Rise of Flatforms

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Mar 11th 2011 at 9:00AM

After a long run, the precarious platform shoes we've seen for much of the last decade are giving a new, flatter platform. Or, as I'm calling them-flatforms.

If fashion soothsayers have names like Marc Jacobs, Fendi and Derek Lam, platforms here to stay-in fact, we can expect to see them through fall 2011 (Issey Miyake, above)-but gone are the high arches and their impossible heights. In their place are gentle graduated slopes full of the promise of easy promenades that don't give up much of the stature of their predecessors. That's not to say, these flatter versions are without danger. A fall show in New York featured flatform combat boots that made at least two female models and one male model fall flat on their faces.

By and large, though, this spring designers are delivering walkable wedges with no shortage of style. Marc Jacobs' platforms bring us back to the '70s with their rainbow colors adorning the arches of the shoe. Fendi confounds modern architectural rules with platforms that seem to come in three separate sections-a heel in emerald green, a mid-shoe in brown and a toe in natural wood with a bright blue strap. Derek Lam is probably the most traditional-basic Maryjanes in camel opened-toe or off-white closed toe upon natural-grained wood.

Tags: Derek Lam, Fendi, flatforms, Issey Miyake, Marc Jacobs, platforms

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The Fashion Statement: Ralph Lauren's Children's Facebook Contest

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Mar 3rd 2011 at 8:00AM

Dior's ousting of John Galliano may be dominating the fashion news, but Polo Ralph Lauren's newest children's book and its online Facebook contest is something we couldn't ignore.

Today, a day after the national Read Across America event, have your kids check out Uma Thurman narrating the The RL Gang: A Magically Magnificent School Adventure on RalphLauren.com and Bloomingdales.com. You can also shop the clothes--Ralph Lauren's spring children's collection--highlighted in the book.

In addition, Ralph Lauren is conducting a contest on its Facebook page that allows parents in the U.S. and the U.K. to upload photos of their child. Friends and family can then vote on the child of their choice. The winning whippersnapper will be chosen from the group of children with the most votes, flown to New York and cast as a member of the RL Gang (pictured above).

This is Ralph Lauren's second RL Gang virtual childrens book. As I reported a few months ago, there's a big incentive for adult designers to beef up their childrenswear business. It was one of the few areas that experienced growth during the economic downturn. The company's also experimenting with other forms of retailing.

Tags: Barnes Noble, Ralph Lauren, Room to Grow, The RL Gang: A Magically Magnificent School Adventure, Uma Thurman

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The Fashion Statement: Outre In at the Oscars?

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Feb 24th 2011 at 8:00AM

Blame Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj and consumer confidence: all reasons why Oscar fashion is expected to be dialed way up this year.

Hollywood actresses have suffered a fashion drought for years-showing up in any ensemble that said "conspicuous consumption" was a faux pas in the midst of economic misfortunes. But, now, as consumer confidence rises, so will the ante at this year's awards ceremony, say the experts. Colors are expected to be bolder, silhouettes more distinctive, baubles flashier: In other words, Sunday's red-carpet parade is shaping up to be a good show.

In fashion, one is always emboldened by precedent. "Artists are starting to dress much more crazy, more out there and it has a ripple effect on fashion," designer Marc Bouwer told Reuters yesterday. "While you won't see a Lady Gaga outfit necessarily on the Oscar red carpet, you will see more architectural styles -- an expanded shoulder, a pronounced sleeve. The stronger power woman has emerged, and you cannot ignore that trend."

Last month's Golden Globes, to which numerous luminaries turned out in pink, rose and pale skin tones, is always a good indicator of things to come at the Oscars. But you could see more purples, greens, oranges and indigo blues, too.

Tags: Academy Awards 2011, Diamond Information Center, Golden Globes, Lady Gaga, Natalie Portman, Nicki Minaj, Oscars, Patty Fox

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The Fashion Statement: Long, Lean and Ladylike

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Feb 17th 2011 at 9:00AM

Among the oddball indicators of the economic future, hem lengths are one of the more popular. Urban lore says short skirts reflect a bullish stock market and hems drop when people get down on their luck.

New York Fashion Week officially wraps up today and, one of the take away messages is longer hems are here to stay. Ne fret pas: That doesn't mean we're in for another meltdown. In fact, the industry has been showing signs of a turnaround. Nevertheless, hems lowered in the middle of the downturn and longer silhouettes seem to be having a lasting effect on fashion.

Except for a nod to the '70s last season, Marc Jacobs has been flirting with a more demure, sophisticated look for a few seasons now. For fall, he showed grown up silhouettes ever-so-slightly reminiscent of Dior's New Look from the '40s in futuristic materials such as a metallic rubber, fur and cellophane.

Looks for the boardroom are what Donna Karan does best, and she was clearly enamored with '50s silhouettes for today's all-business woman. Bloggers mentioned Tippi Hedren and Grace Kelly as a way to describe the Hollywood glamour Karan managed to add to her working girls.

Gallery: NYFW

Tags: Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, marc jacobs, michael kors, new york fashion week 2011, new york fashion week fall 2011

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The Fashion Statement: Life after Couture

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Feb 10th 2011 at 9:00AM

There's life after haute couture.

Christian Lacroix, who delivered his last haute couture collection in Paris on July 2008 to rave reviews, has not chosen to spend his post-retirement days at the beach. Instead, it appears the designer is busier than ever. Lacroix has reinvented himself as museum curator, furniture designer and a fairytale book illustrator. He's also planning to design costumes for a German opera company and is putting out a women's capsule collection for a Spanish clothing brand.

What the couture fashion world has lost in Lacroix--he no longer has anything to do with his namesake label that, after bankruptcy, was acquired by a duty free shops company in Florida--the art and design world has gained. This month alone, you can see what he's done with a museum and a book.

As the artistic director of "Women in Orient," he has curated an exhibition of costumes and accessories that opened earlier this week Quai Branly Museum in Paris and runs through May 16. It's mostly ceremonial clothing from Syria, Jordan and Palestine during the 19th and 20th centuries. But under Lacroix's direction--the designer likes to blend a French sensibility with the exotic--you can expect to see an eye-arresting, rich melange of contrasting patterns and embroidery.

Gallery: Christian Lacroix Sleeping Beauty

Tags: Camilla Morton, Christian Lacroix, Desigual, Quai Branly Museum, SICIS, Sleeping Beauty, Women in Orient

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The Fashion Statement: Obama Weathers Storm, Book Praises Style

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Feb 3rd 2011 at 9:00AM

Michelle Obama has weathered the sartorial storm.

Late last week on Good Morning America, she faced her critics: "Look, women, wear what you love. That's all I can say. That's my motto. I wear what I like because...I gotta be in the dress, so..."

Next week, she will be lauded for connecting with everyday Americans by her attainable style in a book by Kate Betts, Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and the Power of Style (Clarkson Potter, February 8, 2011).

If you haven't been keeping track, here's what all the fuss was about: Weeks after the First Lady wore an Alexander McQueen gown (pictured above) to a state dinner honoring Chinese president Hu Jintao, her fashion choice had grown into a full-blown kerfuffle. Some blogs were even calling it McQueengate.

From a fashion point of view, most critics agreed it was a slam dunk (the color red is auspicious in Chinese culture). From a political viewpoint, several U.S. designers-Oscar de la Renta and Diane Von Furstenberg, in particular-voiced disapproval that she donned a British, instead of American, label on an evening that was supposed to promote American Chinese trade.

Tags: Alexander McQueen, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, CFDA, Diane Von Furstenburg, Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and the Power of Style, Kate betts, Michelle Obama, Oscar de la Renta

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The Fashion Statement: Haute Couture's Lightness of Being

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Jan 27th 2011 at 9:00AM

The Haute Couture Spring 2011 shows have yet to wrap up in Paris this week and, already, we know the end of the story. Designers are walking the tightrope between pale blush, pinks and nudes on the one side, and bright saturated jewel tones on the other. Similarly, styles are either soft, feminine and ethereal or dramatic and rich.

"There's a sense of lightness that we're seeing, particularly in the materials," says Joanna Manganaro, an editor specializing in womenswear at trend forecasting firm Stylesight. "Chiffon, tulle--everything is done in a light-handed way. It feels featherweight. It's something more modern, more uplifting."

That was clearly the case with Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci, a designer better known for being dark and severe, delivered a collection of gowns in pale yellows, barely-there pinks and light nudes as a tribute to Butoh dander Kazuo Ohno. In the end, he remained true to his reputation for boldness. When the models turned, they revealed the backs of the gowns that were embroidered in neon orange, chartreuse and fuchsia.

Christian Dior (pictured above) had a more traditional view of things. John Galliano paid tribute to René Gruau, an illustrator who created the house's iconic images from the '40s and '50s. Remember Dior's New Look from the '40s? Galliano (who has a new look himself--a shag haircut) reinterpreted the New Look in in electric blue, fuchsia, brown, emerald green and red taffeta and satin. One of the highlights was a flaring white skirt topped with a burnt-orange jacket with shoulders out-to-there.

Gallery: Full Bloom

Tags: armani prive, Chanel, Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Haute Couture Shows, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Kazuo Ohno, Lady, Rene Gruau, RiccardoTisci, Stylesight

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The Fashion Statement: Designer Kids Lines Boom

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Jan 20th 2011 at 9:00AM

A week ago, I wrote about the hordes of celebrities with baby bumps on the red carpet during awards season. Well, designers must have been some kind of soothsayers, because several spent a good part of last year developing and launching children lines. Soon, they will no doubt see the fruits of their labor (sorry), as more and more of these privileged babies are born.

Jennifer Lopez's twins, Max and Emme, were the stars of Gucci's advertising campaign to publicize its designer munchkin wear (0 to 8 year-olds) which debuted late last year. Lopez said this week she only agreed to let her kids be photographed because it was for a good cause. Gucci pledged $1 million to UNICEF's Schools for Africa initiative.

Tags: Carolina Herrera, dolce and gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, jean paul gaultier, Jennifer Lopez, Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith, Preen, Ralph Lauren, stella mccartney, Tommy Hilfiger

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The Fashion Statement: Baby Bumps and the Red Carpet

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Jan 13th 2011 at 9:00AM

There is serious baby fever in Hollywood. Starting this Sunday at the Golden Globes, more baby bumps will be taking a turn on the red-carpet than you can shake a stick at. Victoria Beckham. Natalie Portman. Penelope Cruz. Gretchen Mol. Mariah Carey. Jewel. Pink. Jennifer Connelly. Rachel Zoe. And, just yesterday, Kate Hudson announced she had a bun in the oven. With so many expectant celebs, TV show Extra compiled a list to keep everybody's due date straight. We're, of course, more concerned with what they'll be wearing.

You might think this many women with child during awards season could foil a designer's grand ambition to see his/her couture gowns on the red carpet. Think again. Designers have pregnancy down. Remember Catherine Zeta Jones in 2003? The word "luscious" came to mind when the nine-months-pregnant star walked the Oscars in a low-cut chocolate-colored gown with beaded straps. And it was a coup for Versace.

My friend and colleague Amy Tara Koch published a book last year called Bump It Up and, in it, are great style tips courtesy of designers and fashion insiders.

"Half of pregnancy has to do with attitude," Filipa Fino, accessories editor at Vogue, told Koch. "I just refused to give in to feeling dowdy. And therefore, I did not look dowdy!"

Gallery: baby bumps

Tags: Adam Lippes, amy tara koch, Donna Karan, Isaac Mizrahi, j. mendel, Milly by Michelle Smith, Rachel Roy, thomas wylde, Versace

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The Fashion Statement: Will 2011 be the Year of the Hat?

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Dec 30th 2010 at 8:00AM

Hats worn for the express purpose of style hasn't been widely popular since the '20s. Millinery did have a brief comeback in the '80s when Princess Diana gave visibility to the British tradition of wearing hats for special occasions. Now Kate Middleton is again putting a modern face under the British topper. And numerous designers on both sides of the pond made the hat a central focus of their spring/summer runway collections. And then there is Lady Gaga entertaining us all with her theatrical chapeaus.

Not since the '80s have we seen so many hats! So we wonder: Could 2011 be the year of the hat?

Arguably the most buzzed about accessory of the season was the colorful, wide-brimmed hat like the one above at Prada. Badgley Mischka and Marc Jacobs channeled Jodi Foster in Taxi Driver with their bright pink versions shown over hair that had been appropriately curled and frizzed. Sally Field in The Flying Nun would have fit right in at Missoni where almost every model wore hats that flapped down the runway like wings. And Alberta Ferretti went boho by pairing floppy fringed brims with her collection of gauzy ethereal gowns.

Gallery: Hat Gallery

Tags: Alberta Ferretti, ann demeulemeester, Anna Sui, BadgleyMischka, Carolina Herrera, Christian Dior, dsquared2, Giles Deacon, Hermes, issey miyake, John Galliano, John paul gaultier, just cavalli, Kate Middleton, Lady Gaga, Missoni, moschino, Prada, Princess Diana, Sonia Rykiel, YohjiYamamoto

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The Fashion Statement: The Best Dressed Women of 2010

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Dec 23rd 2010 at 8:00AM

This was the year politician's wives, fashion editors and designers shoved Hollywood (except for Carey Mulligan perhaps) and the music industry aside to become the best dressed women of the year.

Fashion blogs everywhere have been writing about what fashion insiders Japanese Vogue editrix Anna Dello Russo was wearing in addition to their daily chronicles of Lady Gaga. What was French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld wearing front row at Marc Jacobs? What was Elle's style director Kate Lanphear doing in an online campaign for CFDA/Vogue fund finalist Eddie Borgo? Wrote New York Mag's The Cut in July: "Borgo calls Kate, whose regular appearances on street-style blogs have won her an online cult following, the 'epitome of the modern-day punk.' If anyone needed more face time on The City, it's this woman. Then again, her elusiveness is one of the things that makes her so cool." As for Roitfeld (pictured above), who just this week shocked everybody by announcing she's bidding French Vogue adieu, proved that women in their 50s (she's 56) don't have to age.

Gallery: Best Dressed

Tags: Alexa Chung, Anna Dello Russo, Carine Roitfeld, CarlaBruni-sarkozy, Carrie Mulligan, georgina chapman, Kate Lanphear, Kate Middleton, Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama

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The Fashion Statement: Worst Fashion Disasters of 2010

by Kristin Young (RSS feed) — Dec 16th 2010 at 9:00AM

When you think of the greatest fashion disasters of all time, you think of Bjork's swan in the '90s, Cher's evil bird slash cage gown in the '80s and Barbara Streisand's see-through pajamas in the '60s. But 2010 could be the year of the biggest fashion train wrecks of all time!

This year was filled with more fashion faux pas than any of the aforementioned could rack up in a lifetime. Style missteps are an astounding feat these days when you consider that celebrities have an army of stylists, fashion designers panting for exposure and, one would think, a mirror or two.

Of course, at the top of the trashy heap is Lady Gaga and her meat dress she debuted at the MVA's. Aside from assaulting our senses and pushing animal cruelty in our face, she wants us to feel sorry for her because she feels like a piece of meat?

Venus Williams was another grand slam in the disaster department. She showed up to play at the French open in red and black lingerie. Kinda cute idea. Problem was the skin-tight shorts she wore under the getup were the same color as her flesh causing everybody to think they saw her butt cheeks.

Gallery: Worst Disasters