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The Classicist

The Classicist: Is the Royal Warrant Losing Its Lustre?


A recent decision by two venerable British brands to drop the Royal Warrants from their packaging has occasioned some hand-wringing in the UK over whether the much-coveted distinction has lost its lustre. The Classicist calls it a tempest in a Royal Doulton teacup; read on to find out why. Only three royals are entitled to grant warrants – the Queen of England, the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales – to firms who supply their royal requisites for at least five years, though most warrant holders have ties to Britain's royal family dating back several decades or more. Of course, Prince William will one day be granting his own.

Holders of the Royal Warrant include many of our favorite luxury brands – Asprey, Aston Martin, Bentley, Barbour, Burberry, Fortnum & Mason, Gieves & Hawkes, Holland & Holland, Hunter Boots, Jaguar, John Lobb, Johnnie Walker, Land Rover, Laphroaig, Lock & Co., Swaine Adeney Brigg, Smythson, Tanqueray and Turnbull & Asser – along with a host of lesser names, such as After Eight mints and Jacob's Cream Crackers. It is the latter two that have now decided to do without their warrants – though no insult is intended to the royal family, as it was when former Harrods owner Mohamed al Fayed burned his last year. That coupled with the results of a new survey showing that only 13% of respondents thought that warrants make any difference have called their usefulness into question, the London Guardian reports.

However, "It's hard to say that interest in royal warrants is conclusively on the wane," Vicky Bullen, chief executive of Coley Porter Bell, tells the paper, "because there is no existing data with which to make a comparison. However, consumers' apparent indifference to the royal warrants has surprised us. We can only surmise there could be a number of factors at play." Said factors, Bullen says, include "that we live in a less deferential society in which the royal family enjoys less prestige and political support." That of course is not exactly new, though the upcoming Royal Wedding may give them a boost. [cont'd]

The Classicist: London's Luxe Salon Prive Comes to 'Gosford Park'

gosford park
The Salon Privé, Europe's finest and largest dedicated display of supercars, exotics, classics and luxury goods in an English garden party setting, is moving to an amazing new venue this summer to house the largest exhibition to date and an incredible auction alongside. Syon Park (above), the sprawling London estate of the Duke of Northumberland, whose family have lived there for over 400 years, is best known as the mansion used in the movie Gosford Park and is the last surviving ducal residence retaining its country estate in Greater London, making a fitting new setting for the five-star event slated for June 22nd – 24th.

To mark the occasion, RM Auctions, the world's largest collector car auction house, has selected Salon Privé as the venue for its third annual European sale. Themed 'Quintessentially English' and scheduled for June 23, the new RM sale is set to become a regular fixture on the company's global events calendar, catering specifically for collectors with an affinity for British marques. Also joining the luxe event, now in its sixth season, for the first time is Land Rover who have confirmed that they will show the new Range Rover Evoque models which guests will be able to test drive.

2011 marks a return to the event for Porsche alongside such brands as Aston Martin, Bentley, Bugatti, Jaguar, Lamborghini, Maserati, Maybach, Mercedes-Benz, Morgan and Rolls-Royce. In addition to the stunning display of modern super and luxury cars, the event's internationally renowned Concours d'Elégance returns with seven new categories and a display of some of the rarest and most valuable cars in the world. Examples of this year's categories include Ferrari 250 Competizione, Historic Grand Prix Single Seaters, Grand Routier, Oddballs, Motorcycles from the Steve McQueen era and a collection of stunning Rolls-Royce models to celebrate the 100 year centenary of the Spirit of Ecstasy. [cont'd]

The Classicist: A Quarter Century of Style at Alan Flusser's New Custom Shop

The Classicist: A Quarter Century of Style at Alan Flusser's New Custom Shop
Alan Flusser, author of 2002's Dressing the Man, is our foremost arbiter elegantiarum in matters sartorial; the book remains the reigning bible of men's style. In 1981 he published his first book Making the Man and opened his first custom tailoring shop in New York City in '86; a year later his Master of the Universe wardrobe created for Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street made him an instant icon. Now on the 25th anniversary of the original's debut, Flusser is re-launching the shop with a new look in the space on E. 48th St. it has inhabited since 2002. In recent years someone else handled the day-to-day operations of the shop for Flusser though he remained available for consultations. Now he's decided to take up the reigns once again and usher in a new era of elegance.

"My original vision for the shop had always been a kind of imaginary Savile Row tailor's shop–meets Park Avenue men's club–meets Gertrude Stein for a bullshot," Flusser tells us. "In other words, an environment suffused with Old World taste and totems." As a younger and more 'downtown' crowd has increasingly taken to the merits of fine tailoring, however, Flusser felt it was time for an update, both decor and clothes-wise. Having introduced a slimmer fitting, more body conscious silhouette – the "Vanderbilt" – to his repertoire in 2008, Flusser "wanted the look of the shop to more closely reflect that sleeker sartorial idiom." Enter silver walls, alligator skin tables, 1940s leather and chrome furniture, black lacquer fittings, and of course a cocktail bar. [cont'd]

Rare 1950s Ferraris on Offer at RM Amelia Island

Rare 1950s Ferraris on Offer at RM Amelia Island
A remarkable 1952 Ferrari 340 Mexico Berlinetta (above), and a rare and highly original 1953 Ferrari 212 Inter Coupé by Vignale which sat in a garage for over 25 years, are set to cross the auction block on March 12 as part of RM Auctions' annual Amelia Island sale. One of only three Berlinettas built, the 1952 Ferrari 340 Mexico boasts an impressive competition history having been successfully campaigned at a number of the world's most prestigious racing events, including the 1953 Mille Miglia. Purchased by its current owner in 1979, it comes to market following long-term display at the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Museum in Indiana and is estimated at $2.75 million - $3.5 million.

Considered one of the most original examples in existence, the early production Ferrari 212 Inter Coupé is one of just six examples bodied by Vignale, and was displayed at the Turin Motor Show in 1953. Since the mid-1980s, it has sat untouched in a private garage in the Midwest, emerging for the first time in decades just last week. Presented in very original condition, with the exception of its paint which was returned to its original color scheme of black with a green roof and fins in 1979, it's offered in 'as is' condition with an estimate of $375,000 - $500,000. Other desirable Ferraris in the sale include a 1967 Ferrari 330 GTS (est. $650,000 - $800,000), and a 1957 Ferrari 250 GT Boano Berlinetta, est. $550,000 - $650,000.

The Classicist: Barbour Launches the Ltd. Edition Steve McQueen Collection

barbour
EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW: Two icons of authentic sporting style come together in classic British outerwear brand Barbour's cool new limited edition collection designed in homage to the great Steve McQueen, set to launch this fall. In celebration of the 75th anniversary of their iconic International clothing range, which the King of Cool wore while motorcycle racing in the 1960s, the capsule collection of 19 pieces features several new jackets, shirts and sweaters inspired by archival photos of the actor racing motorbikes and driving his collection of classic sports cars. McQueen first donned a Barbour International jacket when he represented the United States team in the 1964 International Six Day Trials (ISDT) motorcycle race in East Germany. The ISDT (now known as the International Six Days Enduro), one of the most challenging moto racing events in the world, requires each rider to cover 200 miles a day over hellish terrain.

Prior to the event in '64 Steve McQueen and other members of U.S. team stopped off in London and bought six-pocket Barbour Internationals, derived from a one-piece racing suit first offered by the firm in 1936, as a defence against the vagaries of European weather. McQueen quickly became enamored of the International's weather-defying qualities and rugged utility, wearing it in several grueling moto races over the years. Classic images of McQueen in his Barbour grace the linings of the jackets in the new collection. Standout pieces include the Penton (above, $799) and Baker ($599) waxed cotton jackets featuring stars and stripes linings and U.S. flags on the left chest, faithfully recreating the jacket that McQueen wore in the '64 ISDT. Two other wax cotton jackets, the Trophy ($429) and the Greenham ($399), reflect McQueen's effortless style on and off the racecourse. [cont'd]

Lotus to Launch Lotus Originals Lifestyle Brand

lotus originals
Famed British sports car marque Lotus has a super-stylish history, with the likes of James Bond and Steve McQueen among its best known enthusiasts. Now the storied firm, founded in 1952 by Colin Chapman, is looking to reclaims some of that former glory with a new lifestyle brand set to launch in February. Dubbed Lotus Originals, the diverse offerings will include everything from leather jackets and blue blazers to bags and backgammon sets. The company's motor racing and sports car heritage were used as inspiration for the collection, with tire tread patterns, vintage Lotus logos, racing stripes, car silhouettes and numbers relating to the dates of famous Lotus racing victories of the 1960s and 70s appearing on certain items.

"Our goal with the Lotus Originals concept was to create a range of apparel and accessories that really capture the true spirit of our iconic British brand," notes Lotus' Wiebke Bauer. "Lotus Originals isn't just for traditional car enthusiasts, on some of the pieces the branding is very subtle allowing the style and quality to shine, so we hope that it will appeal to a much broader audience. We have developed a collection that is luxurious in a classic, understated way so it is easy to wear every day yet still make you feel part of our very special brand." The Lotus Originals collection will be launched exclusively online at www.lotusoriginals.com on February 23 during London Fashion Week with a London flagship store slated to open later in the year. Check out the gallery for a preview.

EXCLUSIVE: Former Harrods Owner Mohamed al Fayed Sells Off His Rolls & Ferrari Collection


Last summer we reported that Mohamed al Fayed had sold famed London department store Harrods to Qatar's royal family for $2.2 billion. Now the ultra-rich businessman, equally well known as the father of the late Princess Diana's lover Dodi Fayed, is selling off his incredible car collection, featuring stunning custom classic Rolls-Royces, Ferraris and more. There are ten cars in all from al Fayed's collection starring in Bonhams' Paris sale of Motor Cars at the Grand Palais on Feb. 5 - chief among them being the 1965 Ferrari 330 GT 2+2 originally owned by John Lennon, expected to fetch up to $220,000, which we can now exclusively reveal comes from al Fayed's collection and was in fact owned by Dodi Fayed.

Next up are a remarkable pair of classic Rolls-Royce motorcars which al Fayed has refinished in custom Harrods Green livery, one with a royal pedigree. The 1963 Rolls-Royce Phantom V Limousine (above) was the property of H.R.H. Prince Edward, Duke of Kent until al Fayed acquired it in 1996, and is expected to fetch up to $200,000. The Duke of Kent's Rolls, which was originally painted black, still has its blue bullet lamp on the roof signifying Royal ownership. There's also a matching Harrods Green 1969 Rolls-Royce Phantom VI Limousine, estimated at up to $240,000. Read on for the full list of al Fayed's cars being offered for sale, including several other Ferraris:

The Classicist: The Year's Best Luxe Books


Followers of The Classicist, the weekly column devoted to timeless style, enduring elegance, and true, built-to-last luxury as opposed to mere extravagance, are familiar with the fact that we take pains to search out every season's most luxurious books and bring you exclusive glimpses. 2010 was a particularly good year for top-drawer tomes; if you've any space left in your library we suggest you stock up on the following titles which we declare to be the best of the best from those that made our grade in 2010. Featuring our favorite subjects ranging from Savile Row to classic Louis Vuitton luggage, high equestrian style to high society, and classic architecture to the perfection that is is Porsche, this is a chance to catch up on the must-have volumes you might have missed.

Topping the list are our two favorites, Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks (Abrams) and Bespoke: The Men's Style of Savile Row (Rizzoli), both dealing with icons of luxe style, the first a legendary French luggage firm, the second a street synonymous with the world's best men's tailoring. Can you imagine anything better than a suite of Vuitton trunks full of Savile Row suits? Didn't think so. While you're busy assembling a collection these books are the next best thing. Men's style also comes into play in two other titles on our can't-miss list, the bible of Ivy League style Take Ivy (powerHouse) and We Want Miles: Miles Davis vs. Jazz (Skira Rizzoli). They're more closely related than you might think; the jazz legend had a not-so-hidden passion for preppy finery in his early years, while Take Ivy's title is a reference to jazz.


Steve McQueen's 'Le Mans' Racing Suit for Sale

Steve McQueen's 'Le Mans' Racing Suit for Sale
The racing suit worn by the great Steve McQueen in his epic 1971 motorsports film Le Mans is being offered for sale by Toronto's Collector's Studio. The iconic two-piece flame resistant Nomex cream uniform made by Hinchman of Indianapolis bears the name of McQueen's character in the movie, Michael Delaney. It also features the insignia of Gulf, Heuer, Firestone, and the American flag. While the company has not put a firm price on the suit, there have been several serious offers so far, the highest of which is $140,000. The suit shows good signs of use and is fully documented, having been donated by Solar Productions / MGM to a British newspaper for a Le Mans themed contest in 1971. It was presented to the winner by British racing legend Richard Attwood, who won Le Mans in 1970 driving the famous Porsche 917K with Gulf livery made famous by McQueen. McQueen memorabilia is of course a proven earner; Antiquorum sold the actor's Rolex Submariner at auction last year for $234,000.

[via JamesList]

The Classicist: The Stylish World of Spirits & Luxury Hotel Guru Martin Miller


As befits a Brit who has his very own brand of gin, Martin Miller is more than just an entrepreneur; he's a bon viveur and connoisseur of everything from antiques and historic houses to leggy women, fine spirits and elaborately coiffed canines. The self-described "gypsy who never settled" began building an empire as a schoolboy in England which led to an estimated $40 million fortune and the birth of Martin Miller's Gin. Having sold his antiques guide business for a tidy sum, in 1999 Miller hit on the idea of creating a super premium gin better than anything else available at the time; developing the perfect gin regardless of "practical, fiscal or even geographic limitations" became something of a fixation, hence the spirit's slogan: "born of love, obsession and some degree of madness."

Miller's is a top drawer London dry gin made from ten carefully balanced botanicals that's transported 1,500 miles to Iceland following traditional copper pot still distillation to be mixed with the purest spring water on the globe. The result is a potent spirit with a strong citrus nose and taste, notes of juniper and a clean, soft finish. A Westbourne Strength variation ups the ABV from 40% to 45.2%, bringing the juniper to the forefront along with spicier notes and the same soft finish. Both bottles are stunning. That degree of good taste and craftsmanship extends to Miller's small empire of boutique luxury hotels in renovated historic structures, the first of which he opened to house his burgeoning collection of antiques.

Miller's four UK properties echo the eccentricity and artistic sensibility of their creator; showcasing his "maximalistic" approach to decor, they're positively overflowing with antiques and finds from his lifelong adventures. Here's a rundown [cont'd]:

The Classicist: Inside the Embassies & Historic Mansions of Paris

Very rarely do any of Paris' remaining private palaces come on the market; when they do the properties invariably rank among the world's most expensive, such as the 1912 mansion built for the Duchesse de Montmorency recently listed at $140 million that we told you about back in November. The reason there is so little movement among these magnificent monuments to wealth lining the famed city's storied avenues is that most are occupied as embassies and ambassadorial residences. An equally magnificent new book, Historic Houses of Paris: Residences of the Ambassadors from Flammarion by Alain Stella with photography by Francis Hammond offers a guided tour of 22 of these amazing edifices, some seen for the first time, most originally built for members of the aristocracy and now the setting for lavish diplomatic entertainments and intrigues.

Gilded halls, formal sitting rooms, stately dining rooms, paneled libraries, perfectly landscaped gardens, chambers filled with rare antiques, luxurious wallcoverings and private living quarters are all examined in delectable detail, in mansions ranging from a 17th-century hôtel particulier to a Belle Epoque palace and even a couple more contemporary examples, now occupied by the ambassadors of the United States, the United Kingdom, Russia, Germany, China, India and more. The cover (above) depicts the Sicilian theater of the incredible Italian Ambassador 's residence, aka the Hotel de la Rochefoucauld-Doudeauville, built in 1732. Some, like the Indian Ambassador's residence, aka the Hotel de Marlborough built in 1910 by architect René Sergent, who also designed Claridge's in London and Rome's Grand Hotel, are named for famous former owners; in this case the Duchess of Marlborough, aka Consuelo Vanderbilt, one of the world's richest and most beautiful women at the time.

The Classicist: Inside a Hundred Legendary Louis Vuitton Trunks


Since 1854, when Monsieur Louis Vuitton opened his first store in Paris, his name has been synonymous with the ultimate in luxurious luggage. His incredible trunks with their now iconic canvas coverings, introduced that same year, combined pragmatism and elegance and were "perfectly adapted to the current means of transport and changes in the lives of his clients." That's the basis of the best luxury book of the year, Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks, just published by Abrams, Illustrated with 600 images taken from the Louis Vuitton archives in France and new, specially-commissioned photographs. From trains and ocean liners to the earliest automobiles and even hot air balloons, on journeys to all corners of the globe, the Vuitton trunk has crossed time and borders and remains an icon of the golden age of travel, epitomizing the glamour and elegant decadence of an era when journeying to a foreign land involved adventure, romance and style.

The trunks featured in the incredible book are "extraordinary in every way, for a hundred reasons," writes Patrick-Louis Vuitton, the fifth-generation descendant of Monsieur Vuitton who is now in charge of bespoke orders for the firm, "as much for what they carried as for the work, the care, the inventiveness and the ingenuity required to make them." The 100 featured trunks are divided into five sections according to the people who owned them: Explorers & Adventurers, Crowned Heads & Aristocrats, Dandies & Fashionable Ladies, Artists & Scholars, and Hedonists & Eccentrics. Many a Maharaja, actors from Douglas Fairbanks to Sharon Stone, couturiers from Jeanne Lanvin to Karl Lagerfeld, as well as the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Leopold Stokowski, and Damien Hirst have all traveled with Louis Vuitton trunks, often customized in various ways.

The Classicist: Celebrating the Season in Style with Range Rover at Wheatleigh

Click above for high-res image gallery. Photos exclusive to Luxist.

Winter can be a long, cold interlude verging on a test of endurance in the Northeast, and it's all too easy to get bogged down by the doldrums. Plenty of people either hibernate by their hearths or hit the beach until the mercury makes its ascent, but there are myriad ways to keep warm with style, verve and panache. We recently gathered some of our favorite accessories of the season at Wheatleigh, the majestic mansion-turned-luxury hotel in the heart of the Berkshires' winter wonderland. Getting us there in style and comfort through anything the weather cared to concoct was the 2011 Range Rover Sport, a luxurious way to see the landscape safe in the knowledge that the elements have met their match. The pedigreed SUV's smooth, refined, performance and rugged good looks mark it as a thoroughbred in all respects, a suitably stylish conveyance for arriving at a desirable destination like Wheatleigh. And we had the great new Olympus PEN E-PL1 compact, versatile digital camera on hand to record it all for your vicarious enjoyment.

Wheatleigh, located in Lenox, Mass. next door to Edith Wharton's famed country manor The Mount, is a grand estate based on a 16th century Florentine palazzo built in 1893 by New York financier Henry H. Cook for his daughter who married a Spanish count. Many of the materials and over 150 artisans were brought from Italy to produce intricate carvings and design flourishes for the grand interiors and facades. Frederick Law Olmsted, the landscape architect who designed Central Park in New York, was responsible for creating "Wheatleigh Park" on the land surrounding the palazzo. Following a four year multimillion dollar renovation it was transformed into one of the most unique luxurious small hotels in the world. The nineteen suites, guest rooms and baths artfully combine antiques and custom furnishings with original museum quality contemporary art. The baths are finished with English limestone, marble and hand-blown glass fixtures, and most rooms feature fireplaces and Bang & Olufsen TVs. Check out the gallery to see the perfect accoutrements for a stylish seasonal sojourn – from books to watches, champagne to cashmere sweaters, and boots to bags – no matter where your journey takes you.

The Classicist: St. Regis Bahia Beach Brings True Luxury to Puerto Rico


Last spring we previewed the luxe private residences at the St. Regis' beautiful new Bahia Beach property in Puerto Rico. Now the accompanying exclusive resort, the prestigious brand's first Caribbean hotel, is officially open bringing world-class luxury to the island. The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort, Puerto Rico brings St. Regis' signature bespoke services to the stunning 483-acre beachfront enclave, located on a former coconut plantation nestled between the majestic El Yunque rainforest and the Espiritu Santo River. The property's ultra-luxe amenities include St. Regis' legendary Butler Service, Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurant Fern, a 10,000 square foot Remède Spa, and an ocean-front golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. as well as the Caribbean's first certified Gold Audubon Signature Sanctuary.

Designed by acclaimed architecture firm Hill Glazier in a graceful plantation style that harmoniously blends in with the glorious landscape of towering palms and tropical flowers, the resort boasts 139 luxuriously appointed guest rooms including 35 suites with private terraces offering spectacular ocean views, as well as 25 private St. Regis Estate Homes. The elegant, inviting interiors feature custom-designed furniture and spacious marble baths in addition to Pratesi linens and high-tech amenities such as high-speed wireless internet, 40-inch LCD televisions, additional TVs ingeniously integrated into the bathroom mirrors and an iPod docking station. The resort's signature Butler and Private Dining services ensure you'll never want for anything. The beachside swimming pool compound features Seagrapes, a casual bar and restaurant, private cabanas and more incredible ocean views.

The Classicist: Paradise Lost - 40 Years of Cafe Society


In the 1920s, '30s, '40s and '50s the so-called Café Society in Europe drew together aristocrats, millionaires, artists, authors, couturiers, choreographers and musicians in a "glittering world of fashion and frivolity, opulence and ostentation", notes Thierry Coudert in his ultra-stylish new book, Café Society: Socialites, Patrons and Artists 1920 to 1960 from Flammarion. Those decades were the "apotheosis of an era that was to have a profound influence on the history of taste" Coudert writes, with the likes of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Lady Diana Cooper, Diana Vreeland, Cole Porter, Noel Coward and Cecil Beaton setting the tone and deciding which artists, designers, and musicians were in vogue. The cover of the book (above) depicts heiress Barbara Hutton, then the Countess von Reventlow, at a tennis match in 1940, while Yves Saint Laurent, Orson Welles, Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and many more make cameos in the impressive volume.

Gallery: Cafe Society

Baron Nicolas de GunzburgNoel CowardDuke and Duchess of WindsorCole PorterDiana Vreeland

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