Modern Gentleman

Men's Socks by Subscription: The Sockscription Review

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) — Apr 4th 2011 at 9:01AM

The idea of the Sockscription is pretty simple (we first discussed it here). The guy who never thinks about buying new socks gets them delivered via mail direct a few times a year. It also makes good business sense for Blacksocks as they know they have your ongoing business. Convenience services such as this make a lot of sense for the modern busy guy - but you also run the risk of having just too many socks. The problem the service tries to avoid is you having hole-ridden business socks when you least want to.

Tags: apparel, business, gift, mens socks, review, sock, socks, sockscription, subscription

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Roland Iten For Bugatti Belt Buckle

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed) — Mar 6th 2011 at 11:01AM

Watch brand Parmigiani makes Bugatti labeled watches and now inventor and "world's most complex" belt buckle maker Roland Iten, has teamed up with Bugatti for a special belt buckle - and it is almost as complex as the Veyron.

The belt buckle is hard to explain if you haven't had experience with Roland Iten. I have a little video and some hands-on information with a similar Roland Iten belt here. Basically the buckles are designed to preserve the life of the belt, to offer smooth operation, and micro-flexibility in size and adjustment. The Bugatti edition belt buckle is based on the Roland Iten Mk.I-22mm. It offers precise micro-adjustments for the perfect fit and does so in the neatest of manners. This belt will fit your exact waist - and adjust to when that size changes....

Tags: belt, buckle, bugatti, mk.1, roland iten

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Luxist Speaks to Lisa Sorrell about Cowboys and Sorrell's Custom Boots

by Jonathon Ramsey (RSS feed) — Feb 16th 2011 at 9:01AM

Boots are special by dint of numerical minority: most people don't wear them, so we tend to notice them. As well, they present a larger palette for expression and are often expressive far beyond mere size. Yet the statements most boots make concern their wearers: the bella donna in an intoxicating pair of thigh-high Cavallis will probably have you wondering what other influences she might be able to exert on you.

But there is no archetypical wearer, no marble goddess eternally posing in an ur-Cavalli-thigh-high to which all subsequent thigh highs can pray for inspiration. (And yes, we do think that is a shame...)

Cowboy boots, on the other hand, speak to origins and a certain history in a way that few other boots do. Wellington wearers aren't trying to channel Napoleon's nemesis, nor are those in postilions likely to be anywhere near a coach – whereas the very point of a cowboy boot is to recall the men of the prairie. They are the Grecian urns of the American West, but instead of wine, their 10-inch, stitched and inlaid and tanned leather tops are portage for the overflowing, canteen-stained aura of "selfless, honest, independent, and self-reliant" loners.

And when you put them on, those are the waters in which you choose to dip your feet.

The problem, as with most cult relics, is that they are poorly understood. So Luxist spoke to custom boot maker Lisa Sorrell of Sorrell's Custom Boots – whose average boot runs $6,000 – to learn more about how the West was worn. One of the first things she told us: "I tell my customers that cowboy boots are a way for men to wear high heels and bright colors."

Poorly understood, indeed...

Gallery: Lisa Sorrell's Custom Bootmaking Process

Gallery: Lisa Sorrell's Custom Boots

Tags: boots, cowboy boots, cowboys, lisa sorrell, sorrells custom boots

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Barker Black Intros its More Affordable Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

by Jonathon Ramsey (RSS feed) — Feb 14th 2011 at 2:01PM

If you like Barker Black shoes but your accountant doesn't like the cost of donning them, then the brand's Spring/Summer 2011 collection might be the appropriate middle ground. There are eight slippes in washed linen and woven silk wool, four suede moccasins and three high-top sneakers.

The slippers can be had in black, natural, navy, charcoal or purple and all will be embroidered with "Death" on one foot and "Glory" on the other, in a contrasting color. The sued mocs range from cobalt to green to snuff brown, adorned with a silver crossbone. And the silk-striped high-top sneakers will come in deerskin or calf depending on your choice of orange, green, grey, black or white hue.

Instead of the the $775 entry to Barker Black's standard line, this new collection begins at $425 for the moccasins, $495 for the slippers and $550 for the sneakers. Well, except for the Hartwell slip-on wingtip loafer (pictured) in antique honey calf, which takes you back up to $775. You can get those for your accountant - we have a feeling he'll let that expense slide. They'll be available from March at Barker Black stores and online.

Gallery: Barker Black Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

Tags: barker black, loafers, mens shoes, moccasins, shoes, sneakers, wingtip

Barker Black Brings its Edgy English Style to Los Angeles

by Jonathon Ramsey (RSS feed) — Dec 24th 2010 at 8:01AM

In 1880, cobbler Arthur Barker broke ground on a factory in Earl's Barton, Northamptonshire, England. He was trying to fulfill outrageous retail demand for the highly regarded shoes and waterproof peg-sole boots that bore his surname.

In 2004, Derrick Miller took a walk through the Barker factory, chose the best craftsmen as his own and created a luxurious line of shoes with lambent style. The next year, he set up a retail post in New York to fulfill retail demand for shoes that bore the name Barker Black.

In 2010 the march west made The Other Coast, with Miller bringing Barker Black to Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles. Luxist was there, and we had a chat with the founder to find out how timelessness, The English Way of Shoes, rock-n-roll, and the Duke of Cambridge's Own 17th Lancers are all supposed to fit on a gentleman's feet...

Gallery: Barker Black Arrives in Los Angeles

Tags: barker, barker black, barker shoes, derrick miller, los angeles

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Eton of Sweden Opens Flagship Store in New York

by Carrie Coolidge (RSS feed) — Dec 17th 2010 at 10:31AM

Luxury shirtmaker, Eton of Sweden, opens flagship location on Madison Avenue in Manhattan.

Luxury shirt maker, Eton of Sweden, has opened its first freestanding store in North America. Located at 625 Madison Avenue and East 58th, the flagship store promises to be a Mecca for anyone in search of the finest quality shirts, ties and men's accessories.

"The opening of this store marks an important milestone for Eton," says Hans Davidson, president of the 82 year old family-owned company and grandson of the its founders, Annie and David Pettersson. "Our loyal New York customers have asked us time and again for a location in the city. We are thrilled to offer them the full breadth of our collection in this fantastic neighborhood."

Eton of Sweden is known around the world for its innovative and classic designs, exclusive colors, a proprietary fabric finishing process, and full range of coordinating accessories. "While fashion seasons come and go, classic pieces that always look good is the key to sustainable clothing," says Sebastian Dollinger, Eton's Creative Manager. "Throw away fashion is not something we believe in."

Gallery: Eton of Sweden Opens in Manhattan

Eton of Sweden Opens First Boutique in New York

Eton of Sweden opens flagship boutique on Madison Avenue in Manhattan.

Eton of Sweden opens flagship location in Manhattan

Tags: Eton, Eton of Sweden, eton+of+sweden+flagship+store, eton+of+sweden+new+york, eton+shirts, etonofswedenflagshipstore, etonofswedennewyork, etonshirts, flagship+fabric+in+different+colors, flagshipfabricindifferentcolors, Hans Davidson, Jan Borghardt, neckwear, Sebastian Dollinger, shirtmaker, shirts, ties

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Join The Modern Gentleman And The Beekman Boys For A Sophisticated Evening

by Deidre Woollard (RSS feed) — Oct 27th 2010 at 7:02AM

Luxist's own Jason Tesauro, The Modern Gentleman, is teaming up with Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Brent Ridge, the founders of Beekman 1802 and stars of the Planet Green television series: "The Fabulous Beekman Boys" for a unique evening in Chicago on November 10.

The C & Be Seen event at The Chicago Illuminating Company is a night of many of our favorite "c" words: cocktails, caviar, cigars, champagne, cheese and conversation. The evening will begin with a dramatic champagne sabrage and a Petrossian caviar tasting. Hors d'oeuvres will feature the Beekman 1802 Perfect Cheese Platter paired with cocktails. Tickets for the event are $150 each or $275 for a pair. Presented by The BlackBook Group.

Tags: beekman 1802, beekman farm, Beekman1802, Modern Gentleman, The Fabulous Beekman Boys, the modern gentleman

Baobab Platinum, A Gentleman's Candle

by Michael B. Dougherty (RSS feed) — Sep 20th 2010 at 4:01PM

Belgian candle maker Baobab, known for their handmade collection of African-influenced scents, injects some refined manhood into the home decor world with a platinum creation.

There's something about the combination of scented wax and an open flame that seems to negate masculinity, whether due to the enduring legacy of Yankee Candle or the inane obsession with dividing inanimate objects into "his" and "hers." Some candle manufacturers surmount this by festooning the jar with skulls or dying the wax black, which is like wrapping a pirate flag around a fruit basket. But since 2002, Baobab has quietly been producing an entire line of perfumed candles that actually seem appropriate for the boardroom, bar or (his) bedroom. For one, the line takes its olfactory inspiration from Africa (it was created in Tanzania) with scents like Masai Spirit, White Rhino and Zanzibar Spices, all developed in the French fragrance capital of Grasse. The base note for the line is rooted in cedar sandalwood, a warm and spicy foundation to build each individual expression. There are also five sizes to choose from, from the 50gr Mini Max candle to the towering seven-wick, 7.5kg Maxi Max, which has a burn time of 800 hours.

And now Baobab has introduced a platinum jar edition, available across the line. The silvery finish is an elegant and understated display that will hold its own amongst club chairs and single malts. With all that cigar smoke and musty leather in the room you're going to need something that smells good.

Tags: africa, Baobab, belgium, candles, handmade, home decor, platinum

$1Million Suit and $8k Shoes: Bespoke Threads & Handcrafted Treads

by Jason Tesauro (RSS feed) — Aug 25th 2010 at 9:01AM

If Jake Mueser isn't the best dressed man in New York, then he must be the custom clothier dressing the chap who is. His shop, Against Nature Atelier in the Lower East Side, is a modern boulevardier's hideaway with apparel to upgrade any gentleman's life in a meaningful way. You know the sensuous thrill that comes over you upon arriving at the farmers market: redolent mint, eye-popping heirlooms tomatoes, suede-skinned peaches? Here, senses alight to the smell of craftsmanship, the luster of handworked silver, and the light fleecy feel of eight-ounce mohair. A cluster of off-the-rack seersucker suits stands summer ready in traditional blue stripe plus red and pencil grey along with custom denim jeans. Mueser, who could pass for Roger Federer's runway-ready younger brother, identifies fabrics like a sommelier naming grapes in a meritage: cotton, linen, worsted wool, cashmere.

Tags: against nature, atelier, bespoke shoes, bespoke suit, cobbler, jason tesauro, jeffery west, london, Modern Gentleman, new york city, new york shopping

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A Vilebrequin Father's Day: Beachfront Daddies Get Their Crankshafts Turned

by Jason Tesauro (RSS feed) — Jun 9th 2010 at 8:02AM

Vilebrequin's french definition might not exactly translate as "killer beach-trou, bro," but that's what you'll hear all day long whilst sporting a pair. I test-drove this slick import in demanding summery conditions featuring 95-degree scorch, scampering tots, sun-worshipping hipsters, and riparian resplendence along the James River in Richmond, Virginia. The view flowed f

rom blue sky to lush green vegetation, punctuated by a smattering of kayaks that made the panorama look like the scene of a brief paint gun fight. On the rocky beachhead, the afternoon produced a lithe parade of string bikinis, tankinis, and bandinis (sadly, no monokinis). Nearly all of the males wore board shorts of various lengths and tattoos of questionable taste as they reposed on tattered blankets and pulled lotion from beat-up backpacks. The stylish exception shone like a beacon of smartness: my two boys and me in matching Jim & Jam Vilebrequin swimtrunks (those ain't no cute models in the pix, these are our family photos...Brooks & Sebastion with yours truly). If the day were a William Carlos Williams poem, I'd say that So much depends / upon / a blue rabbit / glazed with river / water / besides the white / linen.

Vilebrequin rhymes with "celebs will grin," and anyone who's taken holiday on the gulf of Saint-Tropez will recognize the reinforced double-stitching, spinnaker canvas, and the braided tying cords tipped with engraved zamac, an alloy that will never tarnish or corrode.

If you own a bespoke suit, a tailored shirt, or custom cufflinks, this is your bathing suit. I mean, why on earth would you wear cut-off denims shorts to anything other than a costume party, Daisy Duke convention, or a spontaneous dip outside the Diesel outlet? If you don't yet have a shirt-maker on your speed-dial, consider this your entryway into fine duds. Appreciate the couture of hand-cut back pockets for pattern alignment, water wallet for stowing cash and cards dryly, and a signature label upon the rear waistband that's a handsome and subtle, anti-gauche declaration of brand. Add to this garment's quality construction the whimsical, classic, breezy, patterns of tropical flora and fauna the likes of which one might find papering the walls of cabanas in exotic locales, and you've got a helluva reason to hit the surf.

Tags: bathing suit, fathers day, modern gentleman, swimwear, tesauro, vilebrequin

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Men's Sartorialist Alan Flusser Introduces BeSpeak App for your iPhone

by Jonathon Ramsey (RSS feed) — Jun 7th 2010 at 2:04PM

Alan Flusser is a Coty award winner, author on the finest points of menswear, designer of the clothing for Wall Street and Scent of a Woman, and a permanent member of the International Best-Dressed list. After 31 years of men coming to him to find out how best to attire themselves, he has developed an iPhone app called BeSpeak which means that now Alan Flusser comes to you.

Not at all a cookie-cutter app – come on, we're talking about the tailor who wrote Clothes and the Man – you build a personal profile includes your hair color, skin tone, eye color, face shape, body shape and size. The recommendations provided are based first on that profile, and then based on matching all of the colors and patterns of the items you'll be wearing (suit, dress shirt, tie, and pocket square).

You pick a color or a pattern, and it will suggest complementary colors and patterns to go with. Never again will you have someone examine your shirt, tie and pocket square with that silent look of, "What happened there?" And unlike going to New York City to imbibe the live-action Flusser's advice, the BeSpeak app is free. It is currently only for formal attire and suits, but more casual tips will come soon. You know what that means, those of you who wish to dress well: you have no excuse not to.

Tags: alan flusser, app store, apps, bespeak, iphone app

Petrossian: Caviarchitect of Luxury

by Jason Tesauro (RSS feed) — May 13th 2010 at 10:01AM

Who knew so much Petrossian decadence could fit into a diminutive box no larger than a panettone. Nestled between cold packs, five jars of edible jewels from Petrossian Caviar begged to be unloosed and introduced to a stack of blinis. Yet, in an age of depleted wild sturgeon and general oceanic irresponsibility, I wondered if satisfying a caviar craving was akin to picnicking on White Spotted Owl sandwiches or proposing to a lover with conflict diamonds. Thus, to properly understand and appreciate the goodies, I boned up on Inga Saffron's vast, gritty and noir-esque read, Caviar: The Strange History and Uncertain Future of the World's Most Coveted Delicacy Unlike some glossy, coffee table tome, this is a behind-the-scenes, sea level perspective of the rise and fall of sturgeon, Caspian politics, and caviar culture. After absorbing the book and the jars of caviar, I also caught up with Petrossian Inc.'s Michel Emery, Director of Sales & Purchasing for the eighty-year-old New York firm, Luxist's 2009 Reader's Choice Award Winner for Best Caviar.

The Row Over Roe
While caviar's allure has been venerated for centuries, its modern rarity stems mainly from an incompatibility of sturgeon biology and human development. Sturgeon are older than the dinosaurs, and the Caspian Sea contains the world's highest concentration of sturgeon because it's more of a salty lake than a sea and these ancient bottom-feeders love the brackish deltas and estuaries. Further, since sturgeon always return to the same place to spawn, many of the twenty-seven species are only found in a single river basin. "If a dam blocks the way to a sturgeon's birthplace," Saffron writes, "it will refuse to spawn." Yes, nature has given female sturgeon as many as 10 million eggs per cycle, but these slow-moving, easily-caught giants (the largest beluga ever caught weighed over 4,500-lbs and measured 28-ft long) might only produce eggs ten times during its life. We've squeezed habitats, polluted waters, and hunted them to near extinction à la American buffalo and African elephants, and whereas generations of fishermen on the Caspian used to snag 250 beluga per hour, the catch nowadays yields mostly empty hooks.

Tags: awards-main, caviar, caviar tasting, food-pedia, luxist-awards, main-pedia, petrossian, sturgeon, vodka

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