Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208 Watch

by Ariel Adams (RSS feed)
Apr 6th 2011 at 9:01AM

Patek Philippe's most ambitious new item for 2011 is clearly the Reference 5208 Grand Complication watch. Building on a few platforms, they include a highly desirable trio of complication groups together in the Ref. 5208 making it a very choice piece this year. In platinum, the case is a generous 44mm wide - it is possible that gold versions will come in the years to come.

The dial design feels very contemporary by Patek Philippe standards. While sophisticated, in true Patek Philippe fashion they are able to include a wealth of information on the face without the dial looking cluttered or intimidating. The most cleverly integrated feature is the perpetual calendar which uses a link of window on the top of the dial to indicate the day, date, and month. Small windows in the chronograph subdials indicate the leap year as well as a day/night indicator. A moon phase indicator is built into the subsidiary seconds dial. An important element of the calendar system is that all the indicators instantly jump when they change as opposed to change slowly.

Gallery: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5208 Watch

The chronograph uses a monopusher to cycle between "start, stop, and reset." It uses a column wheel style transmission and measures up to 12 hours. The chronograph design is highly legible and the bold subdials look contemporary and sporty. These elements alone would be enough for the 5208 to be a handsome watch, but Patek also includes a minute repeater complication that is activated by the slider on the left of the case.

For me the icing on the case is that the in-house made Patek Philippe Caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement is an automatic with an engraved solid gold rotor. The movement is so complex that it is essentially three sections sandwiched together.

Around the case are correctors for the calender information. Looking at a profile of the watch you can tell that this isn't just any Patek Philippe watch case. For the first time (that I noticed) the lugs are skeletonized. A very interesting design element on a Patek watch. Another detail is the placement of a small diamond on the case between the lugs at 6 o'clock. The watch it attached to a black alligator strap and comes with a matching platinum deployment clasp. Quite and impressive piece that is sure to become a desired collectible in the years to come.

Ariel Adams publishes the wrist watch reviews site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tags: 2011, 5208, patek philippe, platinum, review, triple complication, watch, watches