How To Avoid Niagara Falls


If there's one thing that's often said about Niagara Falls, besides "wow", it's that it's a pity that such an impressive show by Mother Nature is surrounded by such a dreadfully tacky tourist town.

Yes, you've got more than 3,000 tons of water pounding over both water falls, per second, with rainbows floating in the mist. But you've also got Tussaud' Wax Museum, Planet Hollywood and, in summer at least, hordes of sweaty tourists sporting black knee socks and sandals.

The Niagara Parks Commission appears to be engaged in an effort to change this perception, at least among its most easy drive-in market, Torontonians. It recently launched a campaign called "Shake Off the City", which portrays city dwellers confronting urban blight -- graffiti, traffic, stolen bikes -- and escaping to the wonders of the Niagara region. This portrayal of their city has evidently annoyed some Toronto-dwellers, although that apparently wasn't the intention.

The intention was to showcase the "arid side" of the region, as Joel Noden, executive director of the Niagara Parks Commission, told the Toronto Star. I presume he meant the area beyond the big-whoop waterfalls, and leaving aside clumsy urban stereotyping, he's got a good point. The Niagara Escarpment in Ontario is actually quite lovely -- with loads of hiking, the full sweep of Lake Ontario, and, a number of excellent wineries, growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. (The area has a strong reputation for ice wine as well, given the cold winters.)

The best base of operations is Niagara-on-the-Lake. Okay, as a tourist from the United States, you will have to deal with a small amount of not-so-nice history: in 1813, US troops burned the entire city to ground leaving its residents to freeze to death in the snow. They're not holding much of a grudge, though, and the rebuilt and now historic city oozes with quaint, flower-filled charm. To keep the quaint vibe thrumming, consider the Prince of Wales hotel, a Victorian gem right in the center of town.

NOTL sounds like a texting abbreviation, but the acronym is a handy way of referring to a town whose name is honestly a bit of a mouthful. Anyway, in NOTL, you'll find North America's oldest golf course, many fine restaurants, and wineries with friendly-yet-sophisticated tasting rooms. (Peller is a must-see.)

Nightlife isn't a strong suit, but the well-regarded Shaw Festival should keep you happily in top-notch theater during your stay.

Best of all, it's just a half hour from Niagara Falls. You can do your surgical strike in, admire the pounding water and get back out again before the wax museums and video arcades steal your soul.