Walk through the doors of Underwood Bar & Bistro in Graton, Calif., and you might think you've been transported to a cozy eatery in the middle of New York's West Village. In fact, you're still in the heart of Sonoma wine country – about to sit down in an establishment nominated for a Luxist award in the best wine bar category.

Founded in 2003, Underwood is one of a handful of places that brings an urban sophistication to Graton, a tiny town centered between Occidental, Santa Rosa and Sebastopol in the bucolic Sonoma area. Stop by on a weekend night and stay with the wine-tasting revelers as late as 2am; don't be surprised to see Sonoma royalty downing a carafe at a nearby table.

Gallery: Underwood Bar and Bistro in Grafton, Ca.

Underwood's wine list contains dozens of offerings from California and beyond; there's also a small beer selection for the yeastily inclined. Along with the spirits, don't forget to have a meal while you're at Underwood – the menu includes a mix of French and Italian cuisine with plenty of seafood options, including fresh oysters. If you arrive after dinnertime, never fear: there's a late-night menu to suit any craving.

Though it's in the country, Underwood isn't terribly out of the way. A twenty-minute drive from the Bardessono, Northern California's premier eco-lodge and other wine country hotels, Underwood is also just an hour north of San Francisco by car.

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