The Fashion Statement: Alexander McQueen's Final Show
A handful of fashion editors got a look at Alexander McQueen's last, unfinished collection on Tuesday, making them acutely aware of the genius the industry has lost.
The 16-piece collection, half of what was supposed to have been shown in Paris this week, was 80 percent finished on Feb. 11 when the designer hanged himself at his London apartment at the age of 40. He had been reportedly distraught by his mother's death and there were rumors of a failed love relationship. Sarah Burton, who worked with McQueen for more than a decade, finished his work.
The presentation was set to opera music the designer was listening to when he was working recently. It was "solemn, funereal and even a little spooky," according to Women's Wear Daily.
Editors said the show was difficult to watch because it was soon clear that McQueen was fixated on the afterlife. The clothes had medieval and religious overtones and suggested battles between angels and demons-themes that take on significantly more meaning in light of McQueen's death. With pale faces and wearing bronze skull caps, models glided out in Jacquards and silks on which Old Master paintings by Botticelli, Hieronymus Bosch and Jean Fouquet were digitally transferred. One print portrayed hell and damnation while another featured doves. A skull, a signature of McQueen's, showed up in this collection crushed and broken.
As usual, McQueen's work blows you away. The push-pull between dark and light, anger and love, beauty and ugliness, madness and sanity has the awful power to drive a man to suicide, as we've learned, but it was this that made his work so compelling. You might very well be horrified by one of the pieces, but you can never look away. And when a piece is beautiful, like the Indian princess was a few seasons ago, it is the most beautiful thing you've ever seen.
I'm sure like many jaded fashion editors, McQueen, was my personal favorite (and I had the good fortune to meet him once). He was technically one of the best, but it was the push-pull that fascinated me. He was never predictable. He was the designer other designers watch.
Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune wrote: "In this collection Alexander - Lee - McQueen showed his sensitivity to history, his powers of research, his imagination, his technical skills and his love of women, often misinterpreted or misunderstood, but here evident in every fold and feather."
A talent gone much too soon.
I'm sure like many jaded fashion editors, McQueen, was my personal favorite (and I had the good fortune to meet him once). He was technically one of the best, but it was the push-pull that fascinated me. He was never predictable. He was the designer other designers watch.
Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune wrote: "In this collection Alexander - Lee - McQueen showed his sensitivity to history, his powers of research, his imagination, his technical skills and his love of women, often misinterpreted or misunderstood, but here evident in every fold and feather."
A talent gone much too soon.
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 2)
mif991 Mar 11th 2010 11:59AM
Wow, really inspired fashion. I am sorry to know he couldn't handle the depression, but he leaves an amazing legacy in the industry.
Khaki Mar 11th 2010 11:37AM
Gorgeous collection. It's unfortunate he didn't realize that life is good and worth living, no matter who leaves this world. I'm sure his Mother would rather he go on living the good life without her.
Brenda Mar 11th 2010 12:49PM
I can see why he was depressed ,sorry but i would not be caught dead in this stuff!
Scoot Mar 11th 2010 1:13PM
That's it Brenda baby, you keep wearing your tennis shoes and t-shirt!!!!!!!!
Karen Mar 11th 2010 1:21PM
Thank you, Brenda. Unfortunately,because this guy killed himself,people will be calling him a genius. What a joke. Do any of you people think those models actually WEAR this stuff,except on the runway?
Joshy Mar 11th 2010 9:40PM
You guys just don't get it do you. The type of fashion that McQueen did wasn't made to wear out on the streets! It's art on the body! Get over yourself, everybody knows that nobody wears it outside of runway, THAT'S NOT WHAT IT'S MEANT FOR!! Learn the art before you go ranting about it.
Pierpoint Windsor Mar 11th 2010 1:00PM
Regal plush textiles, incredible unique design and a feast for the eye. The last McQueen collection throws down a gauntlet of challenges for all designers. Obviously he has raised the bar-it is up to all in haute coutoure to respect that challenge and work to achieve this level of excellence. Classism taken to the new millennial heights.
Karen Mar 11th 2010 1:21PM
HAHAHAHA. What a joke.
Karen Mar 11th 2010 1:21PM
Has ANYONE ever seen ANYONE wearing this horrible stuff other than on a runway? That's because no one in their right mind would WEAR this crap. God almighty, how about something comfortable and classy and attractive to wear? I am not surprised this hideous collection was designed by a man. Are you kidding me? What? Haute couture is just another name for grotesque and ridiculous nowadays. I guess anyone can call themselves a designer,if Bristol Palin can call herself a consultant! Really,who would pay to consult with an unmarried,single mother,high school dropout? Am I living in a dream world or what?
Joshy Mar 11th 2010 9:44PM
You're living in a world of idiocy! The type of fashion that McQueen does isn't meant to be worn out on the street! It is art on the body, like a painting of a sculpture. It is fed by imagination and inspiration. You probably wouldn't know that, and to be honest, you sound like you're just full of sour grapes because you just don't get it Karen. Not ANYBODY can be a designer. There are plenty of designers who make stuff that you DO wear out on the street, but he isn't one of them, and if you knew the art you would know that before opening your mouth. Learn the art before having a fit about it ma'am.
Karen Mar 11th 2010 1:24PM
Looks like we have some baseball umpires here.
aquasanta Mar 11th 2010 2:09PM
great post. mcqueen was a master. he set the pace for a lot of designers. haute couture, believe me, is what you buy at the local target. a true master of his craft.
brian
owen Mar 11th 2010 2:28PM
And you call that fashion? that is disgusting at its best.. thank goodness I am not a sophisticated fashion critic that is so self important they think what they say has merit. those dress would be an embarrassment to be seen in... owen
BarbaraAnn Mar 11th 2010 2:20PM
"Inspired fashion, gorgeous collection, regal plush textiles, incredible, unique design"? WOW!!! What the hell are you people smoking anyway?? This stuff is runway ONLY, nothing that would ever be worn by anyone in public, and you know it!! Fashion is never any of the above discriptions anymore. It is all, revamped, restructured articles of the same o same o, again and again! Get real! That thing on the models head looks like a skull cap actors use so a wig can be worn over it and look like real hair. Give me a break! Go find any woman, or queen for that matter, in the world who has anything like this stuff on any time any where, I dare you!!!!!!! HaHaHa- - - Loony Toons!!!!!!!!!!!!
Alakazam Mar 11th 2010 2:24PM
I'm sorry you cannot see just how brilliant some of these pieces of art are.
If you think you are living in a dream world. I believe you may be right.
Why would you ever imagine that any of these, sometimes breathtaking pieces were made to be worn in an everyday setting? That's not what this colletion was designed for.
If you call the extraordinary workmanship in these pieces "Crap", then I suggest you need to think about your general attitude to other people, because that is an extremely disrespectful and hurtful thing to say. You need to take time to look a little closer and realise the amount of painstaking work that goes into just one of these pieces, never mind the whole collection.
Say what you will. We have lost another tortured genius.
I trust you never have the problems of being either.
Karen Mar 11th 2010 9:55PM
The fact that no one ever really wears it outside of the runway makes it even DUMBER! What a waste of time and energy. At least you can buy and display a painting. If clothes designed by a "fashion designer" can't be worn,why make them at all? Wow,some people will call anything "art".Talk about the ultimate in over-indulging oneself in making this stuff. Use your God-give talents to clothe some cold,starving children,instead of throwing yourself a show and patting yourself on the back.
Karen Mar 11th 2010 9:50PM
Well,as a matter of fact, YES anyone can be a designer.....Madonna,Miley Cyrus,Nicole Ritchie. The list goes on. Who are you kidding? You can call it art if you want,but I am certainly entitled to MY opinion. You would be very surprised to know my background,so before you go calling people idiots,remember everyone has an opinion and yours is no more important than mine.
jmudgett6 Mar 12th 2010 10:16AM
Fine! Anyone can be a fashion designer, but not anyone can be good at it! Something tells me I wouldn't be surprised of your background...it is art, have fun with your opinion, it's closed minded and idiotic. For the love of god, the man just died, have some respect and shut your mouth.
Deborah Mar 11th 2010 10:16PM
While these are extreme looks that one wouldn't likely wear in the real world, there is potential for them to be "tamed down", so to speak, from the intense look shown on the runway, to one that would be doable for some evening wear, and have retail value. I could see number 1, 7, and the last three having potential for something I would wear, if they were a bit more realistic, but keeping the color schemes, materials, design, etc. Just making them more wearable. Actually, really like number 1 a lot. Often, someone has to be radically creative and inventive for an idea to finalize to something practical. Have an idea, create, fail, learn from mistakes, retool idea, create again, it is a process. Many of our favorite things were likely discovered and created because of great minds thinking outside the box! Technology has some of the greatest examples.
Karen Mar 12th 2010 10:24AM
The man took his own life. I have no sympathy. It sickens me to see people who obviously were given talent(according to HIS world) and then throw it all away. The worst thing is that he took the gift of his life so lightly, that he thought he could play God and decide when he should die. GOD decides that. And before you think I am some religious nut,think again,but I DO think no one has the right to end his own life. It's GOD'S life to give and GOD'S life to take. The audacity of someone to think they are more important than God,that they can play God with something so precious. He obviously was troubled,which begs the next questions: Where were all his friends and family and why didn't anyone have an inkling?