Go Deeper into the Italian Dolomites at Rosa Alpina
The New York Times just ran a lovely story encouraging travelers of the ski-enthusiast and foodie variety to head for Cortina d'Ampezzo in the Italian Dolomites. If you're looking for something that's just as luxey and lesser known in the US (which makes it more-luxurious by definition) I would nudge you just a bit further west and north into Alta Badia, and specifically to the tiny little town of San Cassiano.
Americans that visit the Alta Badia region and particularly San Cassiano tend to come in the summertime, for hiking and fishing. But in the winter, the area is mostly frequented by Italians, and for good reason: San Cassiano and its environs have all the scenery and the skiing, plus its restaurants are a tightly-knit constellation of Michelin stars -- apparently the highest Michelin star concentration in the Alps.
The place to stay here is Rosa Alpina with 51 rooms, three restaurants (including St. Hubertus, with two Michelin stars) It's owned by the Pizzinini family which fairly dominates hospitality in this area, having been in the hotel business here since the 1930s. The family owns hotels, restaurants and even the local butcher shop. This means that whatever you need is not only within the grasp of the management here, they're probably related to the people who can make it happen.
The clientele they cater to obviously expects nothing less. It was snowing on the day I arrived, and the winding mountain roads with their hairpin turns and minimal guardrails would have been difficult in a car without four wheel drive. One guest had his Porsche Carrera flat-bedded up the mountains so he could drive it during the weekend, having followed behind in a more sensible form of transport -- if you'll allow that sensible is a word that could at all be fairly applied to that entire situation.
Anyway, to continue with Rosa Alpina is set up against a pine covered hill, in the heart of town. The decor is rustic and sophisticated, exposed wood beams and velvet, stucco and crystal chandeliers. (The floors are of a rose stone, perhaps marble, and covered with dark green throw rugs that can be a bit slippery so take care that you don't wipe out before you even reach the slopes.)
There's a cozy lobby bar which becomes most lively in the evenings, and the people watching is absolutely unbeatable. If you're looking for the latest ski fashion modeled on the greatest Italian bodies, this is definitely where you want to be. At the same time mixed in with all the Prada, there are reminders that you're in a family-owned hotel, pictures of the family, family trees and so on. It makes for an endearing combination.
The rooms are all different, my picks are the newest -- the Chalet Loft Suites, which have an almost Scandinavian feel with blonde wood and a palette of white, charcoal and black, although the view out the back from the balcony is pure Alpine. These rooms are well appointed, with bathrooms that include radiant floor heat and color therapy in the shower, a large flat screen TV (as you'd expect), and a nice touch, a wood-burning fire place. If you can't reserve that room, a good second choice is the sweetly soft "Suite Giardino", designed by Frette, with its ceiling delicately painted with flowers and grapes. A more masculine room is "Kamin Feuer", which is decked in tweed and velvet.
The spa is quite adequate, which is a bit of a come-down after the stellar accommodations and food available here. It's got basically everything you want -- an extensive menu, and innovative treatments that make use of local botanicals -- but it's not designed for a lengthy retreat, guests often come to the spa in their bathrobes as there's no relaxation area pre- or post-treatment. I found it all a bit awkward, the white marble was pretty to look at, but slippery when I was shuttled from my pre-massage bath infused with arnica, lavender and mint, to the massage table which mysteriously lacked a face cradle.
Neither the pool nor the fitness center were especially inviting, but I think that most people take their exercise outside here, which is, after all the point of venturing up 5,000 feet into the Dolomites.
There's a cozy lobby bar which becomes most lively in the evenings, and the people watching is absolutely unbeatable. If you're looking for the latest ski fashion modeled on the greatest Italian bodies, this is definitely where you want to be. At the same time mixed in with all the Prada, there are reminders that you're in a family-owned hotel, pictures of the family, family trees and so on. It makes for an endearing combination.
The rooms are all different, my picks are the newest -- the Chalet Loft Suites, which have an almost Scandinavian feel with blonde wood and a palette of white, charcoal and black, although the view out the back from the balcony is pure Alpine. These rooms are well appointed, with bathrooms that include radiant floor heat and color therapy in the shower, a large flat screen TV (as you'd expect), and a nice touch, a wood-burning fire place. If you can't reserve that room, a good second choice is the sweetly soft "Suite Giardino", designed by Frette, with its ceiling delicately painted with flowers and grapes. A more masculine room is "Kamin Feuer", which is decked in tweed and velvet.
The spa is quite adequate, which is a bit of a come-down after the stellar accommodations and food available here. It's got basically everything you want -- an extensive menu, and innovative treatments that make use of local botanicals -- but it's not designed for a lengthy retreat, guests often come to the spa in their bathrobes as there's no relaxation area pre- or post-treatment. I found it all a bit awkward, the white marble was pretty to look at, but slippery when I was shuttled from my pre-massage bath infused with arnica, lavender and mint, to the massage table which mysteriously lacked a face cradle.
Neither the pool nor the fitness center were especially inviting, but I think that most people take their exercise outside here, which is, after all the point of venturing up 5,000 feet into the Dolomites.
