Gordon Ramsay's Own Kitchen Nightmare
Reality television shows can make a career, they can also be a huge distraction. Responding to a recent article in the Wall Street Journal, Gawker called celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, "the Donald Trump of Food," a phrase that could be taken as a compliment or a slur depending on how you look at it. One thing is certain is that Ramsay has had a rough time of it lately. Earlier this year when describing the news that his accountants wanted to put his business into administration and that he owed more than £7 million he called it "the worst bollocking ever" and told the London Times it was "the worst year of my life." Now in an interview with the Wall Street Journal he is similarly gloomy saying that he had "his own personal nightmare" a phrase no doubt co-opted from the many writers who've used phrases from his televisions shows "Hell's Kitchen" and "Kitchen Nightmares" to make puns about Ramsay's current financial state. In the fallout from the tumbling of his financial empire Ramsay has sold his restaurants in Los Angeles and Paris back to the hotels they are in and has left Prague behind. Rasmay says he has fired around 15 percent of the staff and is using cheaper cuts of meat. The Wall Street Journal article says that Ramsay earns around £10 million in annual revenue from television, publishing and endorsement contracts (he has published many cookbooks and has lines of kitchen and dining goods) and has put around £12 million of his media earnings into his restaurant empire. Is Ramsay just a high-profile victim of the downturn in the restaurant world? The troubles of Ramsay seem particularly intriguing since many chefs with television careers seem to be doing okay (Mario Batali and Emeril Lagasse spring immediately to mind). These days part of being a top chef includes a book or two, restaurants in multiple locations and, if not your own television show, at least a gig or two as a guest judge on a cooking competition or a slot on a morning show. So what makes Ramsay different? Is it the global expanse of his network which includes restaurants all around the world? Is it the sheer size of his empire with over one thousand employees spread out? Or is it something else. I think in many ways the expectations for Ramsay's cuisine are higher than those of the other telegenic chefs? After all, Ramsay isn't just a chef, he is a Michelin-starred chef, a designation that carries certain weight and expectations. It must also be noted that Ramsay hasn't exactly made a lot of friends in the restaurant world. He's had feuds with his old mentor Marco Pierre White, another celebrity chef Mario Batali, and his former protege Marcus Wareing. His crotchetiness isn't just a television stunt, a marathon runner and former soccer player, he's deeply competitive and it may be that desire to be the best that led him to overextend himself in the first place. He also may have lacked a firm restraining hand in the form of a business partner. Ramsay owns 69 percent of his company while his father-in-law is the chief executive of Gordon Ramsay Holdings and owns the other 31 percent.
Over at our sister blog, Daily Finance, Alex Salkever questions Ramsay's future and if he will file for bankruptcy? I think Ramsay's actually on the path to recovery. He's focusing on what he knows, opening a new version of Petrus restaurant in the Belgravia area of London that will serve the modern French fare that got him into the spotlight in the first place. And when he expands into other areas he's now doing so through agreements where he sells off his name, menu advice and expertise. By switching some of his restaurants to being licensed establishments rather than enterprises wholly owned by his company he may have lost some control but he's gained more cash and cut his total risk. In the Wall Street Journal interview Ramsay says that he's learned a lot about business in the past year. If he can surrender his ego a bit and learn his lessons then he may be in good shape for the future. If not? Well, Hell's Kitchen just got renewed for another season in the U.S. so he has that to fall back on.
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Reader Comments (Page 3 of 3)
Lita Aug 11th 2009 2:05PM
Well, this IS good news, if it means the demise of his horrid television show. (Why does the public get such a kick out of shows that feature the bullying of others? Don't we witness enough of that in the workplace, for crying out loud?)
Ken Scharabok Aug 11th 2009 6:26PM
I strongly suspect on KN's he just doesn't show up and the episode starts. Surely he has had staff evaulatue the situation for several months before he even arrives. When he does, he is pretty well following a predetermined script. For example, making over a restaurant overnight just doesn't happen without a tremendous amount of advanced work. First you have to have the tear-out crew go in, the initial site prep. folks go in and then the installation of carpet, wallpaper, etc. and new chairs and tables and such. Same for kitchen make-overs.
As I understand the U.S. tax laws the restaurant has to pay federal (and perhaps state) taxes on the value of the upgrade as the equivalent of a gift. Thus, he may be straddling an already failing restaurant with even more debt.
Old saying: You can work for an SOB as long as they are a consistent SOB. Its the ones who fluctuate back and forth who will give you ulsers.
Everyone on The F Work, KN and HK should know in advance by now with they are in for.
Skyboi Aug 19th 2009 4:33PM
JuanPerez....."You are a MAJOR HATER and for ur friend they must have a very bad palate or no culinary knowledge. Have u actually been to applebees are u fucking kidding me no body gets the STARS and the success he has by making applebees food U FUCKING MORON."
LMFAO
You call me a "MAJOR HATER", lol. Sorry if you can't handle the truth and I doubt that you ever ate in one of his restaurants. I don't think you can afford to eat in one of his failed restaurants. Like I said, if the food was that good, he would still be in business.
I trust my friends. They own restaurants, work as food wholesalers and own a few wine stores. If they are comparing his food to Applebee's, from what I see him prepare, I agree with them.
It's obvious that you also have a limited ability to use any other words than "fucking or fucking moron". I think you watch Gordon way too much and need to clean up your language or as Gordon would say, "Fuck you!" LMFAO!
Skyboi Aug 20th 2009 9:20AM
There are alot of factors when it comes to these famous chef's restaurants. The most important factor is the chef him/herself. Most of the food at these restaurants have been inconsistant because they rely on other chefs to prepare their recipe's. I have eaten food personally prepared by Mario Battali and it was fabulous, but have eaten at another one of his restaurants and it was fair. Gordon may be a great chef, but if he and his father-in-law are not managing his restaurants to keep the quality up, then they are doomed to fail.
eddysl12 Jan 14th 2010 3:45AM
Sky, you are correct. If you look at the reviews of other great chefs who have multiple establishments, practically of all of them have some outlets that aren't very highly rated.
The reason is that the big chefs aren't there to correct minor mistakes and make decisions, and yet people expect big chef type food. Petrus was a big hit because Marcus Wareing was the absolute boss of the place and had the final say-so.
It's simply a lousy buisness model to have your name on a place but not be there on a regular basis. If you want a solid empire you need to have at least neutral names for them and put in good chefs with absolute authority over the cooking,