Changes For Import of Jamon Iberico Ham
Fans of the uniquely delectable Spanish hams might want to stock up on the traditional bone-in jamon Iberico de bellota because a change is afoot. The hams are made from the hind legs and traditionally presented with the black hoof attached but U.S. government regulations are putting an end to that. The hams have only recently been allowed to be imported from Spain. The hoof violates a U.S. Department of Agriculture sanitary rule which also applies to domestic meat that is designed to reduce the risk of contamination. LaTienda, an online retailer of Spanish wine and food, is selling hams that they have already imported with the foot attached for around $1,395 for a 15-pound ham. Another reason to buy now is a new tax that goes into effect on April 23. The tax is 100 percent on cured Spanish hams shipped with the bone.
The AP quotes Jonathan Harris, co-owner of LaTienda.com as saying the ham won't be the same without the hoof. The ham is made from pampered free range pigs each given an acre of space and fed a diet of acorns. The jamon Iberico is considered to be the most delicious ham with a rich flavor and silken mouthfeel.
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
C.S. Apr 3rd 2009 5:20PM
I really, really, REALLY doubt that the ham would be any different without the foot. It seems more like a traditional indication of quality than a necessary component of quality itself. 200 years ago, you'd probably want to see the hoof to know what you're getting (really aged pork, as opposed to dressed up mutton or something like that). You probably were cognizant of what the hoofs would look like in less-aged hams, so you could compare. In an era without reliable government inspections or regulations labeling laws, you'd demand to see the hoof attached if you're going to be paying that sort of premium.
But now, there's a whole network of laws, regulatory bodies (both governmental and private), trademarks and such specifically designed to make sure that traditional techniques are used in food items like this. It's not just Spanish hams, either. Pretty much every cheese with a name in France or England has to comply with exacting specifications. Vintage port has to be accepted by a non-governmental committee. And that's just a few. The TRIPS agreements require that many of these laws are valid pretty much everywhere -- even the U.S. -- which is why you don't see American wines calling themselves "Bordeaux" anymore.
So cut of the hoof and gimme my ham, dammit!
C.S. Apr 3rd 2009 5:29PM
Also, you left the most important part of the AP story out. Basically, this is a casualty of the simmering feud between the EU and the U.S. which started when we (the U.S.) decided that it really was too much trouble to actually inspect slaughterhouses and other facilities in the line of production of American beef, for which laziness we got some nice headlines about mad cow disease. The EU put restrictions on American beef imports. For health reasons.
So we looked around for something that we could say violated some health code or other, so that we could have something to bring to the bargaining table -- for an exchange of hostages, so to speak. And this is it.
Of course, it's not like importation of this highly specialized niche market product is going to compensate for the loss to beef exporters. It's probably one of several dozen retaliations (but they can't be retaliations, because it's illegal to retaliate) and this is the one we've heard about. Now, though, the Spanish will raise a stink because it's an attack on traditional Spanish producers, and who are they going to come after next? Serrano? Manchego? Sherry? So the Spanish raise a stink to the EU negotiators, and there's more pressure to reach a compromise.
Broadly, here's what I think will happen. It's a new administration in the U.S., and one which actually seems to care about food safety. The U.S. negotiators will point to budget items (if there are any) allowing the hiring of new inspectors, or setting new guidelines, or something. The beef industry will raise a brief to-do. Then we'll see the hams being allowed to be sold with hooves again. Two years --- maybe three.
Or not. It probably doesn't make a whit of difference in the taste -- it's not like a pasteruized cheese requirement, which affects taste dramatically -- so by the time all the trade stuff gets settled, everyone will have realized that it's still the same old ham, and they won't really care whether or not it's got the hoof.
Solex Apr 6th 2009 4:20PM
Let's hope, we will soon have specialists on artisan foods in the FDA.