Obama's First Fashion Faux Pas

by Jared Paul Stern (RSS feed)
Jan 21st 2009 at 6:02PM

While we're all rejoicing at the fact that Barack Obama is our new president, we did have some reservations about the tuxedo he wore to the inauguration ball (above). Simply put, the combination of a notched-lapel dinner jacket (by Hart Schaffner Marx) and a big, shiny white bow tie was not quite the thing for a commander-in-chief. We asked our old friend Alan Flusser, the world's leading authority on men's style who's been interviewed several times about Obama's dress sense, for his thoughts on the matter. Flusser is a renowned designer and author of several seminal works on men's style including Dressing the Man: Mastering The Art of Permanent Fashion. You can check out his interview with Charlie Rose here.

In Dressing the Man, Flusser writes, "The whole idea of a formal suit [i.e. tuxedo] is to distinguish itself from the notch-lapel business suit, not replicate it." Flusser declares that a dinner jacket with notched lapels is nothing short of a "sartorial oxymoron, convoluting both the form's aesthetic logic and its promise of timeless elegance." A proper dinner jacket should have peaked lapels, or, for slightly less formal occasions, a shawl collar. As for the white bow tie, that should only ever be worn with tails - hence the classic "white tie and tails" - and should never be satin. (For the record, George W. Bush was also fond of the notched lapel look - though thankfully not the white bow tie - which showed to his disadvantage when he met with stylish French President Nicolas Sarkozy.)

"I've been doing interviews about how purposeful and reasonably stylish Obama dresses and how he might just begin to set a new fashion bar for the congressional set," Flusser tells Luxist, "and then he goes and shows up in that hodgepodge of formalwear contrivance. In fact, although we make clothes for people he knows, I have been reluctant to reach out to him because he obviously has more on his plate than any one human is entitled to. However, after last night's display of sartorial naivety, I am now determined to throw my hat into the ring of potential fashion advisors/designers for his evolving Presidential wardrobe. Frankly I care less as to whether we make his clothes than teaching him what dressing in a statesman-like manner actually constitutes. I think he's just the greatest and I want nothing more for him than to succeed at everything."

That said, Flusser notes, "Talk about dressing green - this is a [sartorial] advisor kind of meltdown. I don't care if he chooses to wear mediocre or inexpensive clothes but that is no excuse for sporting a notch lapel (always peaked or shawl lapel) dinner jacket with an oversized white bow tie, making him look gift wrapped and therefore costumed. Although Obama tends to look as if he's comfortable and wearing the clothes, last night's ensemble made him look as if the clothes were wearing him, like he was taking his best shot trying to wear something he had little feel for, which obviously (as you have so correctly observed) he does not. Okay, sermon over."

Note - for more on the ins and outs of men's formal attire, see last week's Classicist column, "Ralph Lauren, Whit Stillman and Black Tie," and this post from Michael Williams' brilliant style blog A Continuous Lean.

Tags: Alan Flusser, AlanFlusser, Barack Obama, BarackObama, Black tie, BlackTie, inauguration, Tuxedo

Filed under: Men's Style

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Reader Comments (Page 5 of 18)

Cheryl Jan 22nd 2009 8:56PM

Give me a break. This courageous man (who wouldn't be courageous taking on the monumental task before him) choose to wear what he chose to wear...and I thought he looked great...as did his beautiful wife. This man is changing many things that are/were considered "the way things have always been".....which includes the snobbiness of the social set. Quite frankly, he could have shown up in BEACH WEAR at ALL 10 OF HIS PARTIES and he would have been fine...and I'll bet, the most comfortable person there. I'm a white female from California, so please don't think I'm just gaga over this very handsome/intelligent man because he's black. I voted for the man who could get the nations job done...period...so he can wear whatever he wants!

Cheryl

Arlene Jan 22nd 2009 9:05PM

Although I didn't vote for President Obama, I'm behind him all the way and I think he and his wife looked great. Get a life and don't be so petty.

JANE GRAY Jan 22nd 2009 8:58PM

QUITE FRANKLY, OBAMA CAN COME OUT IN CUFFS, AND COLLAR, AND NOTHING BUT SOME BLACK SATIN BOXERS AND HE WILL LOOK JUST FIIIIIIINE!!!

HE AND HIS WIFE DO EVERYTHING DIFFERENT IN CASE YOU DID NOT NOTICE ???, YOUR JUST CRITICAL, BECAUSE YOU HAVE THIS "STANDARD" TO GO BY.
THE OBAMA'S ARE DOING JUST FINE ACCORDING TO THE MILLION'S WHO WENT TO CHEER THEM ON,, THEY SWING BABY!!!! SWEET!!

oprah Jan 22nd 2009 8:59PM

The Lil Lincoln looked all-ite, the sister has got to do somethin, damn she not a pretty sister and her dress looked like they stole the drapes!!!!!

UniqueMe Jan 22nd 2009 9:10PM

Really? LOL!
Wow, that's alot energy used....... to be a hater!
Try using that energy for something constructive!

Kathy Jan 22nd 2009 9:00PM

The energy coming from these two people made them beautiful. And why would the new President want to wear a black tie that made him look like....a waiter?
Their fashion sense has gone way over your head.

BarbaraGallant Jan 22nd 2009 9:01PM

Leave it alone already. I di not care for her outfit but so what, I also thought the white dress was adding pounds to her again so what.Her choice let it be.As far as I am concerned Obama looked great ,he always does give the devil his due Ket us all concentrate in the big plan,get this country in shape,it comes down to he is the man and President that will do it.Young and intelligent, CHEERS And I did not vote for him ,but now I am pleased he got in

jason123 Jan 22nd 2009 9:01PM

He looked fine, and I don't care what style tux he wears.

I DO care about some of his crappy picks for his cabinet, and most of his bigger government (read "socialist") ideas.

vonstella Jan 22nd 2009 9:02PM

Reading this story was a complete waste of time.President Obama has more to worry about then whether he is breaking your stupid fashion rules.Besides Pesident Obama would look good in anything he chooses to wear.

LMNOP Jan 22nd 2009 9:02PM

WOW this is all really stupid and i agree with erin and b. watever i personally think Obama is too smoothe alomst sickening. and YES BIG FASHION FAUX PAS in the Obama couple.

etiquette_girl Jan 22nd 2009 9:06PM

I couldn't agree with Alan Flusser more (and thank you for posting this article).

As our new head of state, it *does* matter that Obama dresses appropriately and shows that he knows about etiquette -- he will be entertaining dignitaries and heads of state from all over the world in all sorts of settings and at all types of events and, as the representative of the United States, it is part of his job to be informed on rules of etiquette and protocol. This is not about nit-picking (we all realize and appreciate the enormity of the tasks before him); it is about a President acting and dressing in a manner befitting his high office and the esteem with which the American people hold him.

I am fully a supporter of Obama and want only for him to succeed, so when he makes such an obvious (and avoidable!) mistake, especially when the whole world is watching, I hope only that he will have those around him who will correct him.

I think Alan Flusser's final sentences sum it all up beautifully:
"I have been reluctant to reach out to him because he obviously has more on his plate than any one human is entitled to. However, after last night's display of sartorial naivety, I am now determined to throw my hat into the ring of potential fashion advisors/designers for his evolving Presidential wardrobe. Frankly I care less as to whether we make his clothes than teaching him what dressing in a statesman-like manner actually constitutes. I think he's just the greatest and I want nothing more for him than to succeed at everything."

So, yes please, Alan, -- please do just that!

Thank you.

diane Jan 22nd 2009 11:06PM

Does this mean that he and his wife and children have to dress like everyone else who has come before him or can they be themselves and concentrate on the state of affairs that lie before them?

Kate Jan 29th 2009 12:14PM

Thank you! I completely agree.

Mizz Bookluvr Jan 22nd 2009 9:06PM

The fashion critics can go stuff it or sit on it - makes no difference to me - I thought they looked wonderful and so comfortable with each other and no one can fake the love that was in their eyes and the smiles on their faces.

And now he's putting a stop to gifts from lobbyists, freezing salaries until 2012 and cutting spending 10% across the board.

I hope he cleans up Washington and gets rid of the trash, garbage and dead weight that has been at all levels for too long.

G Jan 22nd 2009 9:07PM

Getting dressed is really a simple thing. If he can't do this without messing it up then how can he run a country? Leaders of other countries do realize that as well and lose respect for someone who can't put themselves together.

ed Jan 22nd 2009 9:09PM

He looks fine to me. Both he and his wife are wearing a smile. That's the most important part about looking good during a social occassion.

algonquin j. calhoun Jan 22nd 2009 9:12PM

...everbody from the north carolina delegation thought obama was the head waiter...

Betty Jan 22nd 2009 9:12PM

Speak for yourself, some of us are not pleased with the outcome of the election. Can't you so called writers keep politics out of your rantings? You columnists are more to blame for the woes of the world than anyone else.

bleu Jan 22nd 2009 9:12PM

Thank god it's only the tux in the limelight. Anyone notice whether he wore black or white sox :) Maybe suspenders?
I think our new President looked stunning! That smile will overshadow clip ons or white ones or black ones, who cares, it was a glorious occasion for many and for some, not.

Andrew Jan 22nd 2009 9:14PM

While I immediately noticed the Fauz Pas and mentioned it to my wife, I have to say "SO FRIGGIN WHAT". The White tie was very hard to distinguish from the white shirt but the President did dress with a formal tie with a formal tuxedo. By the way, the wife resoundingly disgreed with me and questioned my acumen in putting together evening wear. I WIN AGAIN!!!

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