The Classicist: Ralph Lauren, Whit Stillman & Black Tie

This past holiday season we broke out the black tie as usual, for what's become basically an annual airing. This got us musing on subjects sartorial and formal attire in particular; then Michael Williams, author of the genius men's style blog A Continuous Lean, pointed us to a page on Ralph Lauren's website for his Rugby line citing the brilliant 1990 movie Metropolitan by Whit Stillman as inspiration. Describing the film (scene pictured above) as "a pitch-perfect examination of our two favorite things: urbane style and preppy angst," Lauren's site declares it can also be viewed as a textbook on how to wear black tie (are you listening, Barack Obama?).
With Metropolitan as a frame of reference, the Rugby writers list a set of rules for stylish evening attire. As Stillman's a good friend of ours, we asked him for his views on the tribute. Actually, he told us, "When we were preparing Metropolitan there was a great two page Ralph Lauren ad running in magazines that we clipped and showed around to illustrate the style the film would aspire to." So, in a way, Stillman notes, "Ralph Lauren influenced the film before it might have inspired Rugby."
And while he says that both the Rubgy site and its commenters "did a good job discussing the film," Stillman takes issue with their 2nd rule for sporting black tie, which states: "You don't need to wear a cummerbund with a tuxedo - that's a personal choice. If you lose the cummerbund, wear suspenders (never a belt), and don't forget that they need not be black; in fact, they probably shouldn't be." Stillman insists that, in fact, "either a cummerbund or waistcoat is required, and suspenders should be worn with either, as with no belt the laws of gravity must be resisted." There you have it, straight from the master (and we fully concur).
We neither of us have any quarrel with Rugby's rule #5, however, which states the following: "You should look sharp in your tux, but there will come a point in the night when jackets are off, ties are undone and anything goes (as evidenced in the movie). If, while wearing your tux, you're invited to dance a rumba: you do. If you're asked to play strip poker: you do. And if you're forced into a fistfight with a count of dubious provenance: by all means, do. Just try not to get any blood on your sweet threads, ok?"
Meanwhile, it seems that Ralph and Rugby aren't the only ones channeling Whit; the hit TV show Gossip Girl also seems to be taking some cues from Metropolitan. Of course, with such an influential film any really comprehensive list of appropriators would have be an extremely long one.

Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
just me Jan 12th 2009 10:54AM
I must disagree. Cummerbunds and waistcoats (vests in American English) are not necessary with a tuxedo. I think tuxedos look better without them, and most designers, including the here-beloved Tom Ford, shows his without these dates additions. Cummerbunds purpose has been lost over the ages and waistcoats, okay, let's call them vests, don't make sense year round anyway. Maybe have them for your winter affairs but surely loose them for August weddings.
Jim K Feb 26th 2009 5:57PM
I concur. Skipping the cummerbund or vest is one of the many passing bad ideas that have attached themselves to the tuxedo over time. Tom Ford, incidentally, often wears a double-breasted jacket. His design for the last James Bond film included a cummerbund.
Kate Jan 12th 2009 1:51PM
You should wear the cummerbund or waistcoat, even if it makes you hot or uncomfortable. If you need a purpose for your cummerbund, have your tailor add small pockets to hold your cards, cash, etc.
It's a pardonable sin to skip the waistcoat or cummerbund if you can look dashing doing it, but it's not pardonable to play around with silly colors or to wear a winged collar with black tie.
just me Jan 12th 2009 4:11PM
Well, I'm thin and gorgeous (just ask my friends) and I can wear whatever I like. As I like.
Kate Jan 12th 2009 6:41PM
If you're that thin and gorgeous, suggest you leave off the shirt and pants and bring on the sequins.
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JokeIII Mar 19th 2009 1:24PM
I'm actually surprised the dearth of pocket squares hasn't gotten more attention...